Originally posted by fnpmitchreturns
I'd like to offer some clarity with this list:
-Apples/oranges/etc fruit TREES: These sorts of long lived specimens generally take 7 years to bear fruit, and all too often the choice cultivars
we're used to nabbing from the store or hybrids. Meaning you might not even get fruit from resulting trees, might get the one you bargained for, or
something else entirety (from one seed to the next). With these sorts, I advice its worth it to pay the money and get the proper, grafted
from local suppliers. When it comes to fruit TREES, and seeds, I only grow from seeds when its stuff to rare 'proper' specimens arent anywhere near
here / cost too damn much to get them all. But with the common stuff, like citrus, I get proper specimens. Another issue here is, whatever you end up
with, assuming it even bears, you dont know WHEN it will bear (the part of year). I cant speak to apples, but with citrus, if you select your
cultivars right, you can have fresh fruit every month of year (except August). I have 15 different citrus cultivars with this facet as the main
-Tomatoes: Its best if you hunt down some heirloom tomatoes to take your seeds from. 'Common' tomatoes might just give you perfectly good and
'like' results, but you never know. If they're non-complex hybrids (of anything) you might get 2 different results in addition to the fruit you
bought. You may or may not be able to tell any major differences between them. Of course you can isolate each variant. Tomatoes are pretty good about
not too easily cross pollinating between different cultivars. I can say I've had all good results from the seeds of store bought (related) peppers.
Peppers I know are amongst the easiest of plants to derive solid cultivars from.
-P's: Potatoes etc are groundcrops and will tend to stay 'perennial' assuming you dont completely remove all their various portions from the
ground. Sweet Potatoes (Ipomea) are tropical rootcrop plants that can be grown annual, but are extremely unrelated to 'potatoes'. With P's you can
plant the entire 'tubers', or you can get them moist and carve out the 'eyes' (germplasms) that begin to form on them, and plant separately. Doing
it that way means less or no 'food' for wouldbe insect marauders.
-Onions: All onions/garlics can be planted directly, or even better all the onions you go thru you can cut off the bottom portion (with dead looking
root materials) and plant those, and most likely get new ones growing that way. WIth green onions its the same story: but the one catch a lot of
people nto realize is when you're growing them NEVER uproot them, cut just off the above ground portion, and they'll grow back. At the store
they're complete, becuase the top portions wont survive commercial life without being complete with the germplasm. Garlic seem to be more finickier,
so I always plant the cloves whole.
-Pumpkins / squashes /etc: Quite often have perfectly good seeds. Also quite often is they're harvested (squashes mainly) well before the seeds can
mature. The solution is to let it sit out as long as it can, and allow is seeds to mature.
-Bok choy: I got some baby bok's once and stuck into glass of water trick. They didnt root for me, but they did manage to keep themselves alive long
enough to make flowers.