Update on my current setup:
As I said before, we built a "six-pack" of jar type reactors, hooked them all up to a common switch, and immediately melted the wires, fried the 50
Amp switch, and the 40 Amp circuit breaker. Damn, what a problem! Quickly figured out we needed a separate switch and breaker for each. So, hooked up
just the one and took a trip. Well, the wife got sick from the carbon dioxide gas, we had it in the back of our 1990 Chevy G-20 van.
This actually helped us, for as I said before we are in the process of building a large plate style reactor, and with this new information, now we are
looking for an air tight container to install it is, a van has very limited space under the hood, you know. So we are looking for something like a
military ammo box with the rubber seal.
So, back under the hood I go! I sawed out a piece of wood for a base, and mounted it to the heater box, and the radiator support. This holds two jar
type reactors, we enclosed them with a plastic food container, cut down to fit and hold the jars in place, with a piece of cardboard between them to
keep them from rattling together. Here is a photo of the two reactors in place:
Here is another photo showing both reactors:
I made a "bubbler" from another quart jar, I cut two holes in the metal lid for the nylon fittings, and placed a piece of hose on the inlet so it
would feed into the water, like so:
The HHO gas goes into the inlet on the bubbler, down the tube under the water, and is then drawn through the water, the water removes the impurities
and most of the smell, then the gas is drawn into the engine through the PCV inlet in the intake manifold. We tried feeding the intake into the top of
the breather, above the throttle plates, but got a much better response through the PCV line, below the throttle plates.
Here is a parts list for those who wish to build one of these little gas savers. For each reactor you need:
2 Ball or Mason wide mouth jars. One for the reactor, one for the bubbler.
Plastic lids that will fit the jar. We found box of 8 at a hardware store for a few dollars. The jars came in a box of 8, make sure to get the wide
mouth ones. We got ours at Walmart.
For each reactor, three Stainless steel bolts, 5/16 " X 6 " long.
These are a little pricey, we bought ours at a machine shop for $3.60 each.
For each bolt you need three nuts, and three flat washers. I used a rubber washer too, for a sure fire seal.
A piece of rubber for making gaskets, we bought a gasket making kit at a hardware store, we got a rubber piece, a cork piece, and a heavy cardboard
From the rubber piece, I made two gaskets for the jars, and two small gaskets for the nylon fittings, these are 90 degree with threads and a nut for
mounting through something, these are used for swimming pools and such. 5/16 " hose size.
A length of 5/16 " surgical tubing, the clear type, available at a hardware store. Obtain an inline check valve like this one:
or Vacuum Check Valve
This is so a backfire doesn't blow back into the reactor, this could cause a fire. Important!
These parts came from Autozone, electrical section:
1 50 Amp toggle switch, this is the one we used:
50 Amps 600 Watts chrome lever toggle switch with screw
1 40 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker, this one is what we used:
Duralast/40 Amp at 12 VDC threaded stud mount circuit
breaker with sealed metal base
Remember, one switch, and one circuit breaker for EACH reactor, or you will destroy your set up right away!
Run a length of 10 gauge automotive wire from the positive battery terminal to one side of the toggle switch(s), which we mounted in the dash for easy
operation. I also installed an Amber Light so I would not forget to tun off the reactor when I stop the truck. Good idea, we all forget things, right?
Now run a 10 gauge automotive wire from the other side of the switch to the circuit breaker, I mounted mine close to the reactors.
Now for the reactor assembly.
Take the plastic lid and cut three holes in a triangle (my design, inline will work too) near the center, leaving room for the nylon fitting, and cut
a hole for it too. You should now have three small holes and one large hole, make this one close, but not too close to the edge of the lid. Leave room
for the gasket, this should be 1/4 inch wide.. The bolts we got did not have enough threads on them, so we cut some more threads. You can have the
machine shop do this for you for a small fee. You need one and one half inch of thread on each bolt. Screw a nut on a bolt all the way down and
tighten. Place a washer on, then a rubber washer, if desired, and place this through the plastic lid, add another washer, and a nut, and tighten this
down real tight. Do this for each bolt. Install the nylon fitting with a rubber washer at the bottom, and screw down the nylon nut tight. Now place
the rubber washer you made to fit the jar lid in place. We took a small piece of plastic, made three corresponding holes, and fed the bolts through,
just in case of a meltdown, or crash, to keep the bolts apart. A little extra safety issue.
Now you make your electrolyte mix. I use, and recommend Sodium Hydroxide. Sadly, the kids making meth have made it impossible to purchase this in a
store, I order mine from here:
2 lbs Food Grade Sodium Hydroxide Lye Micro Beads
Again, sadly, it costs only a few bucks for the Sodium Hydroxide, but shipping makes it almost $18 to my door, via UPS.
Heat the water, I use ordinary tap water, to a state of being hot, but not boiling, just hot to the touch. this make mixing easier. Add one level
teaspoon of the Sodium Hydroxide to the water. You will see an immediate reaction, the water will bubble, and turn a milky white color.
Pour this into the jar, leaving about an inch from the top to spare. Screw down the cap, with the rubber seal in place, and tighten.
Take the unit out to your vehicle, where you have already installed the switch, breaker, hose, and wire. The two outside bolts are positive, run a
wire, with installed terminals, between the two, and attach the positive wire from the circuit breaker to one of the bolts and tighten. The middle
bolt is your ground, this needs a good place to ground to, you can use a fender mount bolt, or a sheet metal screw into metal. Hook up your hose from
the PCV you previously installed, you may cut to fit, but leave enough room to remove the jar for maintenance. You will need a new mix every 100 miles
or so. There may be a little rusty colored stuff in the jar, this is just iron oxide, and nothing to worry about. Clean the jar and make a new mix. I
keep a gallon of pre-made mix, and a gallon of water for cleaning, for changing on the road, this comes in real handy on a long road trip.
Now! You are ready to go! Turn on the reactor(s) and give them a few minutes to heat up. They will eventually get hot, up to 150 degrees. This is why
we use a 40 Amp Circuit Breaker, to regulate the flow of electrons and voltage into the reactor.
It will draw as many Amps as you let it, this
You will see a reaction, and bubbles, this is the
"Browns Gas." The current theory of Brown's Gas states that Brown's Gas is a mixture of di-atomic and mon-atomic hydrogen and oxygen. Browns Gas is
made with an electrolyzer, (your reactor) which uses electricity to split water into its elements of hydrogen and oxygen. At the instant that the
water splits, the hydrogen and oxygen are in their mon-atomic state, this is H for hydrogen and O for oxygen. HHO means twice as much Hydrogen as
Start the engine. Listen closely to it, it will sound normally noisy, and then, after a few minutes run time, you will hear it quiet down a lot! You
will hear it run smoother, and idle better. In just a shot time, all of the old Carbon, and Sulphur will be gone from your engine. Carbon build-up
kills an engine, and any mechanic that has disassembled an old engine knows what I am talking about here.
You can remove your CAT, and sell it, my truck CAT got me $75 cash. Be sure to unhook the Oxygen Sensor, this will sense too much Oxygen in the system
and dump extra fuel into it, and you don't want that. We use one of these babies to save even more fuel:
MAP / MAF Sensor Enhancer
We just wired it into the
MAP Sensor, the middle wire feeds the ECM, and the "City" switch we set rich, so the engine doesn't die in traffic in town, and to help going up
hills. I live in the Mountains, so hills are everywhere. The "Highway" side we set up as high as we can, what this does is cut the voltage that feeds
the fuel injectors, thus saving fuel. I use a Vacuum gauge to help my driving habits, keeping it above 15 HG helps a lot, and keeps the HHO flowing.
Some of you may laugh, and call me a liar, but a recent road test using a mileage gauge netted 38-40 mpg, less in town, of course. My G-20 Chevy Full
size Van weighs 4300 pounds, the engine is a 350 200 hp V-8, with an MSD 45,000 volt coil. We use the best
Stock Ignition Wire
and cheap spark plugs, they last about 3-4 months, we replace them three times a year. We run Rotella 15/40 motor oil, I
got used to it while driving semis. Synthetics are fine.
I have been running this system, in various design configuration stages for two years now, and we love it. The smell is tolerable, kinda smells like
gunpowder. Emission testing is not required in southern Ohio, but for curiosity, I took mine to a place where they perform such tests, and mine passed
with flying colors. The inside of my tail pipe is clean, no soot, just a little water residue. The Tech remarked about how clean the system was. You
can also get a Tax Deduction
for running a Hybrid Vehicle!
Good luck, ask me any question about my design.
edit on 8/22/11 by autowrench because: (no reason given)