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Originally posted by hawkiye
This is not correct. Methanol is not wood gas.
Methanol, also known as methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, wood naphtha or wood spirits...
Methanol is often called wood alcohol because it was once produced chiefly as a byproduct of the destructive distillation of wood. en.wikipedia.org...
Wood gas is a syngas, also known as producer gas, which is produced by thermal gasification of biomass or other carbon-containing materials such as coal in a gasifier or wood gas generator.
In several gasifiers, the actual gasification process is preceded by pyrolysis, where the biomass or coal turns into char, releasing methane (CH4) and tar rich in polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH).
Methane is a chemical compound with the chemical formula CH4.
Reactions of methane
Main reactions with methane are: combustion, steam reforming to syngas, and halogenation. In general, methane reactions are hard to control. Partial oxidation to methanol, for example, is difficult to achieve; the reaction typically progresses all the way to carbon dioxide and water.
Nitrogen N2: 50.9%
Carbon monoxide CO: 27.0%
Hydrogen H2: 14.0%
Carbon dioxide CO2: 4.5%
Methane CH4: 3.0%
Oxygen O2: 0.6%.
Producer Gas is a generic term referring to:
Wood gas: produced in a gasifier to power cars with ordinary internal combustion engines.
Town gas: manufactured gas, originally produced from coal, for sale to consumers and municipalities.
Syngas: used as a fuel source or as an intermediate for the production of other chemicals.
Wood gas is the hydrogen gas contained in wood and organic matter.
How to Make Methanol
Methanol, or wood alcohol, is a clean burning fuel additive, as well as an effective solvent. It is extremely flammable, so great care should be taken in making this substance.
Step 1: A distillery unit, or still, will be needed to hold the wood that you will be using to extract the methanol from. It should resemble the stills used to make liquor. It should be a closed system, with a place to insert wood and then be completely closed, with a pipe to catch the condensed vapor and transport it to a separate container.
Step 2: Put the wood in the unit. The wood can be chunked or shaved, but the smaller the pieces of wood, the easier the methanol will be extracted from it. You will need to heat the unit, usually by open flame. This will superheat the wood inside, keeping it shielded from the actual flame, and so reducing the possibility of combustion.
Step 3: The methanol will vaporize and rise up to the top of the still, where the cooler air will begin the condensation process. The condensed, liquid, methanol will run down the pipe and into the separate containment unit.
Methanol is a highly toxic form of alcohol. and is not cost effective to make on a small scale and is the stuff that eats motor parts if they are not the right kind.
The use of methanol as a motor fuel received attention during the oil crises of the 1970s due to its availability, low cost, and environmental benefits. By the mid-1990s, over 20,000 methanol "flexible fuel vehicles" capable of operating on methanol or gasoline were introduced in the U.S. In addition, low levels of methanol were blending in gasoline fuels sold in Europe during much of the 1980s and early-1990s. Automakers stopped building methanol FFVs by the late-1990s, switching their attention to ethanol fueled vehicles. While the Methanol FFV program was a technical success, rising methanol pricing in the mid- to late-1990s during a period of slumping gasoline pump prices diminished the interest in methanol fuels.
Originally posted by DucTape
An overlooked barter item
Shoes boots and socks. Running around the PAW will eat up a lot of footwear.
I know my kids go thru sneakers every few months and socks by the dozen.
I think a good pair of boots will be worth their weight in gold.
I used an angle grinder to cut the tire. It was messy, noisy, and stunk, but I couldn't face the struggle with a saw. It didn't take long at all once I got the hang of it. It IS tough to find tires w/o steel nowadays. Once you are done cutting them out, go over the edges with a pair of cutters and clean up any wires poking out. Instant pain/blood on any part of the body touched with the edge otherwise. I think the steel is essential to the sandal's success when it comes to the straps.
Originally posted by DucTape
Originally posted by IgnoranceIsntBlisss
QUESTION: Whats the best *cheap* alternative solution for gun oil that can be bought by the gallon?
Mobil one motor oil is used by many shooters as a gun oil.
Most any motor oil will work in a pinch, just stay away from any oil/solvent mixtures such as wd-40.
"Ironically, the product that scores at or very near the top of just about everyone's testing is also the most available, and the cheapest. It also has good migration, a good boundary lubrication package, is the right weight (thickness) for general firearms use, doesn't oxidize over long periods of storage, and is compatible with a wide range of metals and plastics. In addition, it is recommended by at least one real degreed firearms engineer! Just what is this miracle elixir??...Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). That's right, plain ol' ATF."
"Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. In addition, their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren't a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! ATF is better on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a specialty "gun oil"!)"
Been using ATF on my guns for years, even on my CCW that frequently rides in my pocket. No rust, things move like they should, and ATF is cheap.
...I used RemOil, Militec, and a variety of other gun specific lubes prior. I see no functional difference between them and plain old ATF except for price.
Motor oils can have additives that aren't particularly good for you and are missing useful additives that most decent gun oils will have. Other than that they obviously do a good job of lubrication.
The main disadvantage of motor oils compared to a good quality gun oil is that motor oils are typically do a very poor job of corrosion prevention.
If you like Mobil 1, the "L" in Breakfree CLP is the same synthetic oil that was used in the original formulation of Mobil 1 (Mobil 1 was reformulated when the supply of the original synthetic oil dropped). What Breakfree CLP gives you that Mobil 1 doesn't is that the "P" provides some of the best corrosion protection on the market. In the tests I've seen, Breakfree CLP scores near the top while Mobil 1 scores near the bottom.
If corrosion protection isn't an issue and you know that the motor oil in question doesn't have additives that would make it a poor choice for an item handled & worn (for example, at least one formulation of Mobil 1, i.e. EP 15W-50, contains zinc dithiophosphate which the MSDS says has a low order of toxicity and may result in eye, skin, or respiratory irritation, also the aforementioned benzene found in some motor oils) then motor oil isn't a bad choice.
On the other hand, there are choices available (such as ATF) that provide the same level of economy that motor oil does but that are a much better overall match for the application than motor oil is.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional: Up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
Originally posted by SerialLurker
For those of us without alot of spare cash, may I suggest making use of a website called freecycle. Google it. Basically, it's a way to get things for free in your local area are further afield if you are willing to pay postage / travel to pick it up.
Originally posted by dawnstar
if you want that, invest in the silver and gold...learn to mint it into community based currencies....and maybe you can become the next rothschild.....but, then prepare to have you soul become black as night....