Need more force/torque

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posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:09 PM
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I am working on my car and trying to remove the crankshaft bolt. However, the thing will not budge. I have a 160lb air tank, 1/2 inch air impact that will not do it. I have tried a 2.5 foot long breaker bar and even tried going one direction and another set of hands countering me trying to break it loose in the other direction and still no joy. I have thought about throwing heat to it but I prefer not use that method in this case. Does anyone have any suggestions on something else I can try to get this bolt out. TIA.




posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:12 PM
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reply to post by Skewed
 


Some crankshaft bolts are reverse. Make sure that you are turning it the right way. I had an american motors 90 c.i. and the bolt was on in a reverse pattern and it was still a bugger to get off even knowing that.

I remember that I took a pipe that went over my ratchet and it was about n4 feet long, but did the trick,



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:14 PM
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reply to post by Skewed
 


I'd try soaking it in WD-40 or gun lube/cleaner for a few hours then giving it another try. If that doesn't then putting some heat to it AFTER any grease etc.. has been cleaned should do it as well. As long as you control the flame you shouldn't have any problems heating up stuff you didn't intend to.



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:17 PM
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reply to post by tribewilder
 


According to the arrow on the pulley it says to turn it clockwise, so for whatever that is worth. It was probably made in China so their right/left may be different than ours, but I figure with me going one direction and my helper going the other and countering each other that would have solved the direction issue if there is one. The breaker bar did not work either, I bent that.

reply to post by Silverado292
 


I have probably used an entire can of penetrating oil on it so far.
edit on 18-2-2011 by Skewed because: (no reason given)



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:38 PM
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reply to post by Skewed
 


Sounds like it's really on there then, what type of car is it?



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:40 PM
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reply to post by Silverado292
 


2000 Sable



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:45 PM
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Is the car on a lift? I've seen people put the car up on a lift and literally hang off of an extension bar to get tough nuts off.

Other then that I guess heat is the only way to go



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 12:50 PM
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reply to post by davespanners
 


It is on stands, so the floor does get in the way at one point. I wish I had a lift though, looks like I may have to have it towed and pay someone to finish it up for me, and this goes against my self-reliant attitude.


edit on 18-2-2011 by Skewed because: (no reason given)



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:11 PM
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Now that I really think about it, how likely or unlikely is it that the diagram is incorrect in stating which direction to loosen it. I do not mind trying to go the other way, just afraid I will make matters worse and tighten it even more, if that is even possible at this point.



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:30 PM
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reply to post by Skewed
 


With the breaker bar, try working it back and forth with some force, sometimes that helps to break it loose. If you think you are going the wrong direction, you should find out this way. If not heat hay be the only choice.



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:33 PM
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Does the pulley specifically say to "loosen it" clockwise. If it does then it is a reverse thread. because, normally turning clockwise tightens. I am not a engine guy, so I dont know much about crankshafts and which direction the thread s usually go, but I do work on a lot of old cars.



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:40 PM
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reply to post by Cheesefacedogbone
 


Yes, it is pretty specific. An arrow pointing clockwise with the word "LOOSEN".
edit on 18-2-2011 by Skewed because: (no reason given)



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:50 PM
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I don't know much about newer cars I was looking in this forum, and it seems this guy is having similiar issues. This guy is saying that the pulley has a left hand thread to keep it from coming off, but the actual crankshaft bolt should be normal right hand thread. I which case you might be turning the wrong way. Thats about all I can say without being able to see anything.

Heres a link to the forumlink



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 03:58 PM
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reply to post by Cheesefacedogbone
 


Having gone through this once myself, although about 20 years ago, I can tell you that the reverse threads on the crankshaft can seem like they are welded on. If my memory serves me right, it took me 2 days of swearing and doing everything I could to try and break the thread.

I do remember however when it finally broke, that I must have smiled like an idiot for hours. The breaker bar that I used was at least 4 feet long though and I had concerns that I was going to tip the truck that I was working on. Either that or break the motor mounts.

I used all sorts of different concoctions as well that were guaranteed to loosen the bolt as well as a butane torch, but can`t recall what finally got it loose.

I do like to believe however, that it was `the force`and I was somewhat of a jedi...



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 04:11 PM
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reply to post by tribewilder
 


Hey I hear that. I run a antique restoration shop, and have taken apart hundreds of rusty nasty seized up bolts. they key is patience and the oxy-acetylene torch always helps too.. Ive got an 8 foot breaker bar that I keep around here for stuff like that. I had a set of axle bearings on a 1950 Jaguar one time that took me three damn days to get them off. My specialty is really rust repair and body and paint. I do everything but engine work. And these newer cars go way over my head.



posted on Feb, 18 2011 @ 04:16 PM
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heres another link that may help? link



posted on Feb, 23 2011 @ 06:18 PM
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Those bolts are never fun. Although I have had to tackle this once before on a taurus. What kind of impact are you using? If you are using a cheaper one, campbell hausing, sears, ect, Then, no you will never get it off. You will need a good impact. matco, snap-on. With a twin hammer. Also make sure you oil your gun before you use it, you will get a little extra "umpf" at first. And if your worried about using to much heat, a little mapp gas will help alot, without getting things "to hot". pb blaster works great especially when you use a little heat.





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