I Need Car Audio Advice

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

I have a 1000 watt Boss receiver pushing four Pro studio 15", four 6.5s, two massive horns, then a 400 watt amp pushing two 15" Fisher boxes with mids and tweets and two 8"mids and tweets boxes, then a 12" Sony powered subwoofer, also five 6.5s for surround speakers. Ive had that same setup for about 17 years now. Its not as loud as it used to be but it still gets the job done!

I love me some old school home audio I’m always looking out for old school Klipsch (gotta love the hometown boys straight out of Arkansas) Your system beats the bollocks off my home theater setup! Don’t get me started on the new Hd audio crap all it’s good for is pissing off every dog in a 3 block radius gtfo with the 50khz highs!!!

originally posted by: BigDave-AR

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

I have a 1000 watt Boss receiver pushing four Pro studio 15", four 6.5s, two massive horns, then a 400 watt amp pushing two 15" Fisher boxes with mids and tweets and two 8"mids and tweets boxes, then a 12" Sony powered subwoofer, also five 6.5s for surround speakers. Ive had that same setup for about 17 years now. Its not as loud as it used to be but it still gets the job done!

I love me some old school home audio I’m always looking out for old school Klipsch (gotta love the hometown boys straight out of Arkansas) Your system beats the bollocks off my home theater setup! Don’t get me started on the new Hd audio crap all it’s good for is pissing off every dog in a 3 block radius gtfo with the 50khz highs!!!

Hahaha! Yup! They dont make em like they used to!

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

I can do 300. Can they take 125 watts rms all day every day? How long have you had your Kappas?

ETA: I'm not going to run any of my speakers over RMS but i will be running them for hours and hours at a time though.

Oh yeah mine take 150wrms like champs and that’s just in the 2way config haven’t gotten around to finding a home for the 3”.

Trust me those speakers are built he’ll for stout I was drooling all over them when I got my mitts on them it’s crazy having a pole vent on mids lol the carbon cones are sexy as hell too. I’ve had them for a year or so being fed off off of my JL 300/2.

a reply to: BigDave-AR

Oh man you are feeding them a JL 300/2 and they handle it just fine? Thats great, im sold. How loud do you think for of them cranked up on 150 rms will be?

a reply to: BigDave-AR

Man you guys really know your stereo equipment. I just went to Best Buy and got a Pioneer home theatre system for 800$ at the time. I love the thing though. And also the salesman had me sit on a couch and listen after he turned everything else down. Kinda sold me at that point.

I do kinda want to go 4K but I am still digging my 60” 1080P setup for now.

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

Oh man you are feeding them a JL 300/2 and they handle it just fine? Thats great, im sold. How loud do you think for of them cranked up on 150 rms will be?

They’re brutal loud I have the amp set for 145wrms but I never have to crank them that hard they’re efficient fuggers.
My setup
Eclipse CD-8053 8v perout
8” FireHD tablet mounted below headunit
Infinity Kappa Perfect 600s
JL 300/2
DC Audio 12” XL Elite in custom 2cuft@23hz ported (absolute monster sub!) DC Audio
Orion XTR1500.1D

a reply to: Allaroundyou

$800 bucks now days will definitely get you a great sounding home system. Yeah I just bought a 4k about five months ago. Honestly it still too early in the game for that 4k. Give it at least another year or two so that there are more 4k channels, movies and video games in that format available to make it worth your money. Else you will just be watching everything in 1080 on a 4k setup which is pointless.

a reply to: Alien Abduct

That’s kinda what I was thinking. I’ll wait a year or two till I delve into the whole 4K thing. And to be honest 1080P on a good TV still looks great as long as the post processing is up to speed.

originally posted by: Allaroundyou
a reply to: Alien Abduct

That’s kinda what I was thinking. I’ll wait a year or two till I delve into the whole 4K thing. And to be honest 1080P on a good TV still looks great as long as the post processing is up to speed.

Those Andrew Jones Pioneers are nice speakers I’ve always liked pioneer receivers great bang for the buck and They’ve been stepping their speaker game up. As far as the 4K thing I’m probably going to make the jump this super bowl when TV deals are the best my LG Plasma is starting to dim some on me but it’s been a champ 5 years for a plasma isn’t bad at all. I wouldn’t run out and upgrade to 4K but sense I’m gonna be in the market for a new panel anyway I figure I’ll future proof especially since I’m building a bad new HTPC that will be 4K HDR ready.

originally posted by: BigDave-AR

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

Oh man you are feeding them a JL 300/2 and they handle it just fine? Thats great, im sold. How loud do you think for of them cranked up on 150 rms will be?

They’re brutal loud I have the amp set for 145wrms but I never have to crank them that hard they’re efficient fuggers.
My setup
Eclipse CD-8053 8v perout
8” FireHD tablet mounted below headunit
Infinity Kappa Perfect 600s
JL 300/2
DC Audio 12” XL Elite in custom 2cuft@23hz ported (absolute monster sub!) DC Audio
Orion XTR1500.1D

Oh man thats a nice high quality setup. Very good choice on the brands, you know your stuff, Im definitely going to get those Kappas now!

Whats with everyone installing the tablets? What's the benefit of the tablet?

originally posted by: Alien Abduct

originally posted by: BigDave-AR

originally posted by: Alien Abduct
a reply to: BigDave-AR

Oh man you are feeding them a JL 300/2 and they handle it just fine? Thats great, im sold. How loud do you think for of them cranked up on 150 rms will be?

They’re brutal loud I have the amp set for 145wrms but I never have to crank them that hard they’re efficient fuggers.
My setup
Eclipse CD-8053 8v perout
8” FireHD tablet mounted below headunit
Infinity Kappa Perfect 600s
JL 300/2
DC Audio 12” XL Elite in custom 2cuft@23hz ported (absolute monster sub!) DC Audio
Orion XTR1500.1D

Oh man thats a nice high quality setup. Very good choice on the brands, you know your stuff, Im definitely going to get those Kappas now!

Whats with everyone installing the tablets? What's the benefit of the tablet?

Honestly I had an extra tablet kicking around and decided to throw it in and have never looked back have a huge music video library on it and it’s nice having all the modern connectivity with my champ of a headunit it’s in a 99 Mustang Cobra so it didn’t have any fancy infotainment stuff and now I’ve got it all.

My setup is SQL sadly haven’t made it to a meet to get it metered yet with the DC but it’s pretty gnarly loud and low I’m still working on deadening but according to my ear it’s a 140+dB @25hz setup.
I’m still pushing in my hernia from mounting that 70lb sub in a very awkward position....

a reply to: Alien Abduct

Unless car audio capacitors work different from other types of capacitors, you are not using the capacitor properly in your drawn diagram. Capacitors don't run to ground.

The green wire off the cap to ground should actually be your supply to the amp. Supply power to the cap should end there and not be jumped anywhere.

***Oh also 1/0 wire will only handle 150amps, you will fry the insulation and eventually create a direct short.

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: Alien Abduct

Unless car audio capacitors work different from other types of capacitors, you are not using the capacitor properly in your drawn diagram. Capacitors don't run to ground.

The green wire off the cap to ground should actually be your supply to the amp. Supply power to the cap should end there and not be jumped anywhere.

***Oh also 1/0 wire will only handle 150amps, you will fry the insulation and eventually create a direct short.

I didn’t catch that partially because he doesn’t need the cap and IMO would just be a waste of money. The current capacity of the 1/0 depends on the length of run 20’ and under he’ll be fine especially with the extra battery near the amps.

a reply to: BigDave-AR

1/0 wire can handle 150 amps max regardless the length of the run. Ampacity of a wire gauge doesn't change if its a shorter run. 1/0 can handle 150 amps MAX whether it's 1' or 100'.

But yea. that capacitor wiring, should be funny the story if he actually wired it that way.

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: Alien Abduct

Unless car audio capacitors work different from other types of capacitors, you are not using the capacitor properly in your drawn diagram. Capacitors don't run to ground.

The green wire off the cap to ground should actually be your supply to the amp. Supply power to the cap should end there and not be jumped anywhere.

***Oh also 1/0 wire will only handle 150amps, you will fry the insulation and eventually create a direct short.

I thought the same thing when i seen the diagram for the capacitor so i looked at other demonstration videos and apparently it is correct. As for the welding cable, it's going to be pure copper and according to many places i checked 1/0 gauge is good for up to 350 amps at 100 feet or less. The longest run in my car will be under 20 feet.

Welding cable chart


Here is a demonstration video on how to hook up a capacitor from Rockville Audio. look at the 3:14 mark.

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: BigDave-AR

1/0 wire can handle 150 amps max regardless the length of the run. Ampacity of a wire gauge doesn't change if its a shorter run. 1/0 can handle 150 amps MAX whether it's 1' or 100'.

But yea. that capacitor wiring, should be funny the story if he actually wired it that way.

Really? Huh that’s funny seeing as a foot of 8gauge can handle the power of 20’ of 1/0 resistance is a b!tch.... and no that’s not max either that’s constant current carrying max burst current is more like 1,500amps.

originally posted by: Alien Abduct

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: Alien Abduct

Unless car audio capacitors work different from other types of capacitors, you are not using the capacitor properly in your drawn diagram. Capacitors don't run to ground.

The green wire off the cap to ground should actually be your supply to the amp. Supply power to the cap should end there and not be jumped anywhere.

***Oh also 1/0 wire will only handle 150amps, you will fry the insulation and eventually create a direct short.

I thought the same thing when i seen the diagram for the capacitor so i looked at other demonstration videos and apparently it is correct. As for the welding cable, it's going to be pure copper and according to many places i checked 1/0 gauge is good for up to 350 amps at 100 feet or less. The longest run in my car will be under 20 feet.

Welding cable chart


Here is a demonstration video on how to hook up a capacitor from Rockville Audio. look at the 3:14 mark.

I still say nix the cap with the setup you’ll be rock solid without and save yourself a bill. Ignore his comment about the current carrying he wouldn’t know ohms law if it hit him in the arse.

a reply to: BigDave-AR

I think you are mistaking voltage/wattage and amperage.

Also I've never heard of and electrical line bursting. Could you point me in that direction?

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: BigDave-AR

I think you are mistaking voltage/wattage and amperage.

Also I've never heard of and electrical line bursting. Could you point me in that direction?

Burst in the timing since but why yes they can physically burst in a puff of smoke. Know I know all too well about amperage,voltage, power, resistance that are all interconnected and the longer the run the higher the loss from resistance the higher the heat loss and voltage drop causing overheating of the wire. Go look at an ampacity vs distance chart buddy.

originally posted by: BigDave-AR

originally posted by: Vector99
a reply to: Alien Abduct

Unless car audio capacitors work different from other types of capacitors, you are not using the capacitor properly in your drawn diagram. Capacitors don't run to ground.

The green wire off the cap to ground should actually be your supply to the amp. Supply power to the cap should end there and not be jumped anywhere.

***Oh also 1/0 wire will only handle 150amps, you will fry the insulation and eventually create a direct short.

I didn’t catch that partially because he doesn’t need the cap and IMO would just be a waste of money. The current capacity of the 1/0 depends on the length of run 20’ and under he’ll be fine especially with the extra battery near the amps.

Yeah someone else told me the same thing about not needing the cap, do you run a cap dave? i think you are running about 2500w rms arent you? do you have a dual battery setup? No dimming lights?

I was also told i dont need the battery isolator. So, I think im going to cut out the isolator and the cap and run the batteries parallel. I already have a big new international deep cycle battery I was going to use for my trolling motor but im selling the boat and I'm planning on using that for the extra battery, so i think im going to buy another exact one of those and wire them parallel. I drew up a new diagram and its a lot simpler. less connections less problems right? I'll post the new diagram later.

I guess i can always just add a capacitor later if i experience dimming lights when the bass bumps hard.