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The way history has it (now) is that he's always said "If you smell". Promoters added it to his entrance music, but changed it for context to "Do you smell" which he rarely if ever said, so they changed it to a sound byte of him shouting his catch-phrase: “if you smeeeeeelllllll, what The Rock, is cookin.” -and that phrasing has become synonymous with Dwayne Johnson (source).