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originally posted by: Wreckclues
Built this from a Wheeler Wilson treadle sewing machine base to create a pedal powered forge. Found the blower on Amazon.
The ducting channels air through an "ash guard", sheet metal, into a fire-pot.
Plan to counter weight the flywheel to help spin the wheel past the dead center point on the treadle stroke, where the treadle often jams up.
The lower cap on the "T" fitting is an ash clean-out. Machined the threads off a close nipple above the "T" fitting to form a quick disconnect into the fire-pot.
A cast iron fireplace grate forms the frame for the forge, which is lined with firebrick. My original fire-pot was an aluminum bowl insulated with fireplace mortar, rated to 2000 Deg F. Although this worked, it was problematic, requiring constant repair and eventually burned through. Replaced it with a 12 inch cast iron frying pan. The quick disconnect feature described earlier allows the removal of the grate, which is effectively the "forge", from the treadle-blower base. As the firebrick shields the treadle frame from heat, I can put the frame away while the fire grate cools off separately
I fire with coal and generate sufficient heat to forge tool steel.
Have more photos, but can't load them, every time I try they don't appear in the uploaded box.
Bummer, my anvil was cast in 1819, rings true and illustrates the early English method of measuring an anvil's weight.
In a survivalist setting railroad iron will suffice for an anvil, however Harbor Freight sells Chinese cast mooring...I mean anvils, but even a bad Chinese anvil is better than RR iron.
I have a cast iron forge in the garage