Questions about Advanced Dungeons and Dragons (1st edition)

Hi, all. I've just gotten into Dungeons and Dragons after seeing the writers of Robot Chicken playing it on youtube. It looked like fun so I decided to try it. Lucky for me, one of my friends has the first edition player's handbook. Unfortunately, I ran into a problem while filling out my character sheet. How do you figure out how many hit points your character has and what his armor class is? Any help would be much appreciated.

For those of you who would like to watch the same video I saw, here it is:

here is a good start to your journey.
Wizards of the coast AD&D homepage

This site is good resources Look at the right for character sheets and more.

same address but has links to char sheets, and other pdf goodies

Mad Irishman D&D resources

Of course they are on 4th edition these days, and some of the rules may be more streamlined, but the above links are a good start. If you search, you may be able to find pdf versions of the books.

If I remember correctly, hit points on based on character class, and armor class is based on a combo of things. What armor you are wearing, what is your dex, things like that.

Or just click here and see what you get

AD&D Oh how I wish we could all play together

I have been testing out some online roleplay helper programs so we can all get a game together because I know many here used to play.
AD&D was the best version in my book.

Skada is right on the money. You may need some of the things in the DM's guide to play, but can likely find it all online.

AD&D is usually used for tournament play, as the rules are more black and white than later editions...but there is also a lot less "flavor" to characters (in other words, a fighter is pretty much similar to any other fighter of equal level). In later editions, there are more options for customization, so you could have a party of just fighters, and each one can be VERY different.

Hit points are decided by class (wizard gets a d4 per level, cleric a d8, fighters a d10, thieves a d6, etc.) In addition, a high Constitution can give you bonus points (per level) added to this total. Con of 15 = +1, 16 = +2, and so on (if I remember right)

So, if a 3rd level fighter, you'd have 3d10 (so roll a d10 3 times, add 'em up, so 8+6+4 for example = 18), with a Con of 17 (+3hp/level, so add 9), you'd have 27 hit points. (As a merciful DM, I usually max out the first 3 levels worth of hit points, but house rules are a whole other ballgame).

Armor Class is determined by the armor you are wearing, whether or not you are carrying a shield, and a high Dexterity can give you a bonus here. (note, not all classes can wear all armor types). In first edition, a LOW AC is better. (this changed in later versions).

Naked = AC 10 (- your Dex bonus) At Dex of 15 = (-1), 16 (-2) and so on....
Shield Only = AC 9
Leather/Padded = AC 8 (so with shield would be AC 7, etc.)
Studded Leather/Ringmail = AC 7
Scale/Brigandine/Hide = AC 6
Chainmail = AC 5
Banded/Splint/Bronze Plate = AC 4
Plate Mail = AC 3
Field Plate = AC 2
Full Plate = AC 1

So, if you have Plate Mail (AC 3), a Dex of 16 (so -2 to AC), and a shield (-1 to AC), your AC would be 0.

This is from memory, so may not be exact, but I did this for a LONG time, so it's pretty ingrained. I've even done well in some competitions in my youth (mostly because I can twist the rules and spells like nobody's business, hehe...)

My recommendation would be to play 3rd edition. There is a handy website with all of the info in ONE place... Google on SRD D&D and you'll find it.

reply to post by Gazrok




Is a 20 still an "instant kill" ?

I do miss the basements with my friends, hovering over miniatures, arguing if my character was just too powerful.

Dragonsfoot is a great site for Info, and I swear going to that site makes me long for some adventures.

Wholy hell, 1st edition?

Kill me now.

I would suggest starting at Advanced D&D 2nd edition and moving to 3.5 to be honest with you.

Stay AWAY from 4E and any other kind of table top that uses just D10's

~Tenth

Not fully sure how your going to play D&D alone...sort of a group game. You might check out your local comic book store or the like to see if they have info on local gamers seeking out players. The best help will be someone right next to you basically telling you what to do/roll/etc until you get it.

And 1st edition..its like wanting to get into gaming today, so starting with pong.
I started out in 2nd edition (awesome), and since then it has gotten more complex and interesting (traits, etc). If your gonna learn it, learn what people are doing now I would say.

Dungeons and Dragons is either amazingly awesome, or quite boring..it all depends on who is dungeon master and their ability to both weave a good story, and keep track of whats going on. I have heard of skype dungeons and dragons groups. now that is interesting considering you can basically share weblinks and the like. also places like secondlife where you can actually use props and such.

But in all honesty, if you want a good single player dungeons and dragons feel...play Skyrim (heavily modded of course).

Also, it would be quite awesome to find a few people on net who wants to start up a game on skype or some such. I haven't played a game in hell...15 years...but loved it when I did.

Originally posted by SaturnFX


But in all honesty, if you want a good single player dungeons and dragons feel...play Skyrim (heavily modded of course).

Question.

I have the PS3, and play Skyrim. Is the "modded" version only for the PC?

reply to post by sonnny1


A 20 was never an instant kill in the rules, I don't believe, just a critical hit that did double damage. Some DMs treat it differently though. For example, if a schmuck has 22 hit points, and a PC does a critical hit doing 20 hit points, as a DM, I'm going to have the guy cleave through the foe and kill him....from a roleplaying perspective. It simply isn't worth killing the fun to have the guy linger on with 2 hit points. It "cheapens" the shot, from a storyteller point of view.

In 3rd edition, a 20 simply hits (even if it wouldn't have score wise, like if the foe was a 27 AC), and has a chance to be a critical. (have to reroll and if a second crit roll, then it is critical). The upside is many weapons can crit on a natural 18, 19 or 20 (and some do triple damage when they crit). Many 3rd edition DMs simply have a 20 be an automatic crit. (myself included).

reply to post by SaturnFX

Not fully sure how your going to play D&D alone...sort of a group game

There are some dungeons tailor made to be solo play. But really, the social aspect of the game is the best part. Otherwise, may as well play a video game instead.

As for Skyrim, yes, mods are only for PC.

reply to post by tothetenthpower

Stay AWAY from 4E and any other kind of table top that uses just D10's

That's pretty good advice. The games that use just d10's are EXTREMELY unbalanced, so if you have power characters, who know how to min/max rules, they will dominate the game. I love the world of White Wolf's World of Darkness, for example, but hate the mechanics of that system.

reply to post by Gazrok


I believe you are right.

Our DM for years had a problem with throwing creatures our way, that just kicked our butts!

(Added attributes and all)

I think I might give him a call today and Reminisce.........

Originally posted by sonnny1

Originally posted by SaturnFX


But in all honesty, if you want a good single player dungeons and dragons feel...play Skyrim (heavily modded of course).

Question.

I have the PS3, and play Skyrim. Is the "modded" version only for the PC?

Yes

Any Elder Scrolls or Fallout game should be played on PC in my opinion, else your only unlocking a small part of what makes it great.
Modding community is strictly PC based. I have coming up to 1000 hours in skyrim alone...and still not bored (mods add new quests, re-enable quests that the actual developers made but didn't add into the game like the civil war, better graphics, new lands, etc).

When you consider next time to get a console..just take that money and instead upgrade your PC to gaming specs.

I miss the days of tabletop gaming, but alas, no local groups here to play with
I gotta suffer with online MMOs

Originally posted by Gazrok
reply to post by tothetenthpower

 

Stay AWAY from 4E and any other kind of table top that uses just D10's

That's pretty good advice. The games that use just d10's are EXTREMELY unbalanced, so if you have power characters, who know how to min/max rules, they will dominate the game. I love the world of White Wolf's World of Darkness, for example, but hate the mechanics of that system.

WoD? Its alright, but there are some rather silly things in there. Vamp/Masquerade was fantastic. But they changed it beyond my comprehension when they moved to requiem. Haven't bothered even learning it once I learned they basically did away with bloodline and lineage power...and killed "my" clan (Toreador)

reply to post by SaturnFX


Yeah.

It looks like I am missing out, big time.

Im halfway done with Skyrim, but its getting a bit old. I even cranked up the difficulty level and im bored.

Thank you for the suggestion.

Originally posted by HomerinNC
I miss the days of tabletop gaming, but alas, no local groups here to play with

I gotta suffer with online MMOs

Let me introduce to you Roll20

reply to post by Gazrok


The only D10 system I like is Warhammer 40K Dark Heresy. It's quite balanced for a D10 system. You should take a look Gaz, it's a lot of fun.

Originally posted by Gazrok
reply to post by sonnny1

 

A 20 was never an instant kill in the rules, I don't believe, just a critical hit that did double damage. Some DMs treat it differently though. For example, if a schmuck has 22 hit points, and a PC does a critical hit doing 20 hit points, as a DM, I'm going to have the guy cleave through the foe and kill him....from a roleplaying perspective. It simply isn't worth killing the fun to have the guy linger on with 2 hit points. It "cheapens" the shot, from a storyteller point of view.

In 3rd edition, a 20 simply hits (even if it wouldn't have score wise, like if the foe was a 27 AC), and has a chance to be a critical. (have to reroll and if a second crit roll, then it is critical). The upside is many weapons can crit on a natural 18, 19 or 20 (and some do triple damage when they crit). Many 3rd edition DMs simply have a 20 be an automatic crit. (myself included).

edit on 10-7-2013 by Gazrok because: (no reason given)

Its situational depending on the DM. I had a DM whom used 20s as his chance to go creative. lopping the sword arm off of a foe and making him basically fall down screaming for mercy while the gamer decided his fate without need for a roll for instance (even if the damage would have killed him). Alignment check. d20 to that DM basically just meant first off some kickbutt move happened, and the person whom rolled it gets some special thing happen to them (such as a roleplay moment of sparing verses taking a life). Made for more interesting gameplay.

But ultimately, a 20 roll means something good happens..rules are more guidelines for a decent DM.

You do realise that you are putting your immortal soul in danger by playing that creation of Beelzebub???





run for your lives!


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