12 or 24 volt PUMPS, most GPH? even Solar..

Hello,

I am looking for the best 12 volt pump available, that will do the most GPH at 0 feet of head.

The Most I have seen is 4000 GPH in the form of a 'boat' bilge pump.

I intend to use this pump with a battery and solar panel to remove water from a stock pond, and into a garden area. ( initial primary use )

I have tried 1600 GPH pumps, and they just dont put out enough volume.

I have a slight uphill grade of about 5 feet, then a downhill slope of at least 10 to the garden area. ( Yes, gravity feed works, but its about 4 times as slow as the 1600 GPH pump 'straining' to overcome the 5 foot of head )

The Biggest that I have seen is 4000 GPH, at 0 feet of head, but I want to know what is the BEST and MOST GPH available, even if I have to jump up to 24 volts.

I can definately flood an area with enough time, but I would really like more volume to cut the time way way down, and make my efficiency go way up.

I dont think that 4000 GPH will be enough with the head loss that I'm experiencing, and I just want to jump to the best available, instead of messing around with 'another' undersized pump.

12 volt is a necessity, but I can go 24 volt if the pump has outstanding capabilities.

I'm sure some of you use 12 volt water pumps, for large volumes of water.

I really dont need a " RV pressure pump" or "Pressure tank" , as I am concerned with VOLUME not pressure, at this point. The pressure will be more important in drinking water at 'point of use' , after the Garden is saved.

I'm thinking a Solar 'deep well' pump, or something along those lines, in a price range of under $ 400.00. I have seen pumps for $70 to $ 200 that will do 3300 GPH, < 0 feet of head > but I dont think thats enough.

If it seems like overkill, there is also a well about 30 feet deep that I can use it in if its powerful enough, so I dont mind going overkill on it.

I just cant seem to find anything larger than 4000 GPH in alternate energy sources ( 12 or 24 volt battery banks. or even solar direct )

Someone is using one now, and any experience you have would be greatly appreciated.

Any detail you can give will be understood.

Thanks in advance...

Best Regards,

Blitzkreigen

reply to post by Blitzkreigen


Ok, 195 views and NO TAKERS!

Thats why I posted this... I didnt know either...

I should post the results of my research.

3300 GPH 12 volt, 200.00 + 2 marine deep cycle wet cell Batteries ( 80.00 ) and waterproof wire and hose and pipe, connectors, disconnects, charger,( no Grand Total yet, had some of the stuff already ) I figure its a 500 dollar job total, installed I'd have to say for 1000 cause it was a lot of labor and running around getting stuff. It would be easier now.

Flooded a Garden 100' by 100', over a hill in an afternoon, easily.

The Plants loved it. So did the Hawk.

Most expensive 12 volt pump I saw was a "pure" Solar well pump for about 700.00, that would pump UP from 200 feet plus in a well bore- hole.

The Middle Pump would do 3700 GPH and runs 450 to 550, but comes with a stronger frame and stainless steel inlet screens, than the little brother that I got. ( 3300 GPH @ 0 feet of head)

All 12 Volt. All Portable. All 1 1/4 inch pipe size. All chargable with a Solar Panel. 2 with integrated controls and chargers and float switches and battery boxes.

Those are about the 3 Choices, and I went with the smallest one that I thought would do the job. I didnt see a lot of other options out there.

The Garden would not take any more water in a few hours, after days and days of No rain and 100 degree temps though, after getting all the piping and hoses run the "best" way. Ended up with several options, flooding, or slow hand wateriing, or drip feeding. Not enough pressure to "lawn sprinkler" or "spray Nozzle "

Built a "bucket" from a 6 gallon plastic "Pool bucket", drilled 5/8 inch holes around it ( about 60 + ) on top and bottom, and put the pump inside it with a chicken wire mesh wrapped around the pump itself. Then more wire mesh around the outer bucket. Rope, extended 12 volt cord and a little tape, and some shrink tubing + connectors.

Floated it out 50 feet or so and let it sink. ( Had to get past the 'Seaweed' )

Played with differant piping and hose configurations to get the best solutions for the up-slope of the hill, flow rates, portability and aesthetics.

I can see that the pump itself is a small part of the total equation, and I'm glad I went with the smaller pump.

I can upgrade at any time if I ever need to, using the same plumbing and power connections, just upsizing the pump ( the 200 ' deep well pump for 150 more than the middle pump.)

The pump I chose is not over powered with volume, as it runs uphill, a total rise of about 5 feet, over 50 feet, then into the garden. My flow rate is no whwere near 3300 GPH, but thats what I had to size for when pumping uphill, not to mention from the debth of the pond where the pump ended up sitting. ( It will be anchored and floated and guy wired soon )

Maybe this helps one of you 195 viewers that were curious yourselves.

I plan on making a timer system and connecting a Solar panel and charge controller, splitting some pipe runs with more valves to do drip irrigation, and adding unions to move the plumbing for the "tilling" with a tractor.

Ended up with a garden hose end that was easily walked up and down each row for spot watering.

I just need pressure to do a nozzle. Dont have pressure.. only volume. Thats the least of my worries though. Its on the drawing board with a 12 volt RV pressure pump.

There is more, but that is the basic run down.

I have to say it was quite successful, fun, practical and educational.

Blitzkreigen

317 views and No Response from anyone?

I know I didnt get it all figured out, and some of you are already doing this on a much larger level than I can even imagine.

Ok, how about this.....

If you have an interest in 12 volt or 24 volt battery powered PUMPS for moving water in an emergency situation or for a Solar EE home, describe your intentions and maybe I can help with a few details, or learn from your ideas.

This is too good of a subject to let it lay here dead for another month.

What I did worked for me, and I'm not finished learning.

What are you trying to do, and why do you want to use 12 volt?

It already make a LOT of sense to me, and I know that it works.

We are not re-inventing the Wheel here guys... come on... and speak up...


Best Regards,

Blitzkreigen

reply to post by Blitzkreigen


Blitzkreigen,

I understand what you are desiring to do ..volume verses pressure. I have seen the same in this shipyard..in the pumps used to lower the water in the drydocks. High volume verses high pressure. However these are like big 440 volt type pumps. I think in a 12 volt system your pump diameter and suction capability are limited.

I am thinking you may have to parallel two or more of the biggest volume pumps to get the job done. This takes quite a while to get properly staged into place with all the parts and fittings...batterys.

I am wondering if your losses are to great to use battery to an Inverter and then AC pumps?? Not sure what the current drain would be converting DC back to AC in a inverter..and then run a AC pump?? Would this work or would you need a pure sine wave?? I dont think most inverters make a pure sine wave.

We are here in Hurricane territory on the East Coast of Virginia and I am considering sinking a well. Initially to be powered by my generator but at the cost of gasoline I need to be thinking like you about alternative power sources.

I too keep several auto batteries around but have also purchased a deepcycle battery and maintain them all with water from my electric distiller. Will be getting another deepcycle marine battery this year.

Whenever I hear about the weather turning ...my immdeiate drill is to begin maintenance and charging my batterys.

With the last hurricane ..my emergency antenna was hoisted up in a tree limb and one of my car batteries used to power my 2 meter amateur Radio and find out what stores were open and selling gasoline etc ...without having to get in line or drive around like most peoples.

Amazing to me Blitzkriegen..how many people around here can get ready for tonights game, order delivery pizza...or American Idol but cannot make some kind of emergency plans. They dont seem to know what to do if the television goes out.
Like you I dont want any of these high maintenance types anywhere near me.

Just one question about Idaho...you're not up there close to the navy Prototype reactors are you ..or that place where they test the submarine designs in the lake??

Depending how the Stuff hits the fan...I dont think it would do to be near one of those sights.

But from the stories I have heard from the shipyard workers who have been up to Idaho at the prototype sites...Idaho is a sportsmans dream if you like the outdoors and have the right stuff. If you can cut it!! Many of them love it up there and cant wait to get back when their turn comes to rotate again.

Thanks Blitzkriegen. I have also been reading your posts on the site Survivinig the Chaos. Like you ..not intrested in pulling a wagon with alot of dead weight from people with no real skills but the ability to put more stuff in the wagon. Had enough of that in good times..not intrested in it at all in hard times.

Thanks,
Keep them in the X ring.
Orangetom



[edit on 4-7-2008 by orangetom1999]

Originally posted by orangetom1999
reply to post by Blitzkreigen

 

*** Thanks Orangetom1999 for replying to this thread.
I wanted to take the time to answer all your questions before I responded.

I have not figured out the QUOTES thing properly yet, so my replies to you will be initiated with a *** to make it read properly. ***

Blitzkreigen,

I understand what you are desiring to do ..volume verses pressure. I have seen the same in this shipyard..in the pumps used to lower the water in the drydocks. High volume verses high pressure. However these are like big 440 volt type pumps. I think in a 12 volt system your pump diameter and suction capability are limited.

*** Yes that is the major problem right now. ( Volume versus Pressure )
We are trying to both FLOOD a Garden Area quickly, and with little power use, even using gravity feed after the flow starts.

The Garden is uphill first,( 5 to 10 feet depending on location) then downhill a few feet below that at the edge of the first row.

We Do not have City Power there. We do have a Generator.
We have 12 Volt Pumps ( x 3 ) 110 Volt Pumps ( 12 or more ) and 220 volt pumps ( X 6 or more ).

I work in the industry and have saved all these pumps from other jobs and upgrades. We did Purchase the 12 volt pumps and some specialized 110 volt SUMP pumps for a well at another location 30 feet deep.

We wanted to Start "BACKWARDS" with no City Power, but ability to water a Large area, effeciently and with Solar and Wind Power. ( 12 and 24 volt )

We have not had to STACK the 12 volt pumps yet, simply because we can allow TIME to do its thing with low flow and slow gravity feed.

Actually, it puts out about 1/2 the volume of a garden hose , when the pump is on. Volume Only... wont pressurize with a nozzle or sprayer.

The 110 volt sump pumps and above water level POOL PUMPS definately put out a LOT more VOLUME, with the GEN running.

We are up to 1 and 1/2 HP with the above ground pumps, and up to 1 HP with the 110 volt SUMP pump.

The 240 volt pumps have not been wired with the generator adapter plug yet, but they are 2 HP, 3 Hp and 5 Hp respectively.

The 5 HP will be our FIRE PUMP, connected with 3" PVC and "Stansions" woth 100 feet of FIRE HOSE connectd to them at all times. ****



I am thinking you may have to parallel two or more of the biggest volume pumps to get the job done. This takes quite a while to get properly staged into place with all the parts and fittings...batterys.


**** I really do agree with you here. We have all the parts, fittings, cords, Plug Ends, Watertight connectors, heat shrink, tape, interconnects, batteries, stage connectors, fuses etc...

It still takes a LOT of time to get it right.

Right now everything is set up "TEMP" with above ground flexible hoses, ( Suction and Discharge), run amock everywhere like an octopus. We can interconnect differant pumps to the saem plumbing to check out volume and pressure and experiment.

When we finalize everything and do PVC, it will all flow much better, and be out of sight and permenant.

Stacking the 12 volt pumps in stages is interesting. I'm starting to run into a pipe size proiblem already with 1 1/4 inch flex well pipe.

I want to go at least 2 inches.. if not 3 for the 240 volt pumps. ***



I am wondering if your losses are to great to use battery to an Inverter and then AC pumps?? Not sure what the current drain would be converting DC back to AC in a inverter..and then run a AC pump?? Would this work or would you need a pure sine wave?? I dont think most inverters make a pure sine wave.


*** They do make pure sign wave inverters, but they are about twice as much as modified sine wave ones. I really dont think that the pump motors need pure sign wave.

The loss is at LEAST 10 % with a high effeciency inverter.

There is NO CHOICE though, if you want to run 110 volt pumps with no GEN set or City Power.

These pumps 110 volt 1 1/2 Hp Pull about 16 AMPS. Obviously not Energy Effecient, but they were GIMME pumps and I cant complain.

Going to 240 volts will drop that to 8 for a 3 Hp.

Starting Loads are the issue, and once the Motor Starts, it runs at less power and amps.

I'm eventually going to be hooking up a 3000 Watt RUN 6000 watt START inverter, with Heavy cable and large banks of Lead.

I dont forsee any problem starting a 110 volt pump even at 30 amps COMBINED load for all 110 volt items at the same time...

The Wind and Solar will charge the banks of lead, and we will have to be effecient and regulate our useage based upon the sun and wind input. ***



Out Of room.. see next post...

Blitzkreigen

***I apologize for the formatting...

Its not my Forte'

Response Cont... ***

We are here in Hurricane territory on the East Coast of Virginia and I am considering sinking a well. Initially to be powered by my generator but at the cost of gasoline I need to be thinking like you about alternative power sources.


*** Agreed. I lived there for a few years. your winters are worse than mine.

You will need HEATING OIL, and DIESEL generators.

Or go to Luray and dig yourself in to 56 degree earth.

Digging the WELL is the first thing. Even if you have to hand pump it or use a well bucket and a rope.

Go smallest possible on the 12 volt pump, and it probably wont pump UP a well over 15 feet deep. Then you will need the 700.00 SOLAR well pump in 24 volt that will pump UP 220 feet, direct Solar.

Or go 110 volt and an inverter and charger system. ***


I too keep several auto batteries around but have also purchased a deepcycle battery and maintain them all with water from my electric distiller. Will be getting another deepcycle marine battery this year.


*** Car Batteries are about worthless. They are for short bursts of Starting Power, and then a quick recharge from the alternator.

Deep Cycle batteries are meant to pull a load for a while and then be DEEP Charged without eating them up as you would a car battery.

With batteries, simply remember this.... GO DEEP CYCLE... GEL or FLOODED, then look at the WEIGHT of tha Battery.

The Heavier the Battery, in general, the more power you can pull out of it.

The even make 2 VOLT "Glass Jars" ( really Heavy Plexiglass clear sided batteries ) for railroad locomotives and telecommunication backup banks.

They weigh about 600 LBS EACH, and it takes 6 to make 1 12 volt battery, that weight 3600 LBS.

Now you could pull off of that for DAYS... just charging them will take a lot of AMPS to force the power back into them.***



Whenever I hear about the weather turning ...my immdeiate drill is to begin maintenance and charging my batterys.

With the last hurricane ..my emergency antenna was hoisted up in a tree limb and one of my car batteries used to power my 2 meter amateur Radio and find out what stores were open and selling gasoline etc ...without having to get in line or drive around like most peoples.


*** Smart Move... Stay Home and Recon ****

Amazing to me Blitzkriegen..how many people around here can get ready for tonights game, order delivery pizza...or American Idol but cannot make some kind of emergency plans. They dont seem to know what to do if the television goes out.
Like you I dont want any of these high maintenance types anywhere near me.


*** Its simply a symptom of the "Civilized" world. Most people think the TAP will always work as well as the lightswitch. They NEVER even give it a second thought.


I happen to Personally KNOW that your area has a LOT of HUNTERS and Fishermen, and what I would call Good Ol'e Boys, with Freezers and Farms.

You can tell them By the way they all grow a Beard in the fall for Deer Season, and All shave it off at the same time when its time to go fishing.

I really think their wives all call each other and arrange the annual Shaving of the Bear. ***



Just one question about Idaho...you're not up there close to the navy Prototype reactors are you ..or that place where they test the submarine designs in the lake??

Depending how the Stuff hits the fan...I dont think it would do to be near one of those sights.


*** Well, No I've never Been to Idaho, but I hear Its A Sportsman Paradise. Im In The "Big D" of Texas.

As far as Gov. testing.... Yes I do Know. Like I said I lived in DC for a Long time, everyewhere from Spotslvania to WoodBridge and Silver Spring.( And about 5 other places )
I worked on a Military Base, and Saw it all First Hand from an Insiders view on a daily basis. The EPA and OSHA Didnt Apply, neither did the EEOC. ****



But from the stories I have heard from the shipyard workers who have been up to Idaho at the prototype sites...Idaho is a sportsmans dream if you like the outdoors and have the right stuff. If you can cut it!! Many of them love it up there and cant wait to get back when their turn comes to rotate again.


*** If I could only figure out how to make in living up there ***

Thanks Blitzkriegen. I have also been reading your posts on the site Survivinig the Chaos. Like you ..not intrested in pulling a wagon with alot of dead weight from people with no real skills but the ability to put more stuff in the wagon. Had enough of that in good times..not intrested in it at all in hard times.


**** Its SOO unfortunate to have to agree wholeheartedly with you agreeing with me.

I've really tried, including DONATING a LOT of GEAR to Friends, Family and Lovers on My Dime because I care about them.

I know they will at least have 3 days of food and water, among other things, in their car trunks at all times along with an idea of what to expect and what to do.

A lot will probably try to show up when the ball drops, and they will be welcomed... but they better be FAST.

As Far as others contributing.....

long silence......


really long.... ***


Thanks,
Keep them in the X ring.
Orangetom

*** No thank you! And thanks For watchin' my back a few threads back.

I'll Slowly update the progress on the Pumps and Flow situation.

I do also have several "BOOSTER PUMPS" that are 110 Volt, 3/4 inch inlet and outlet, that I know will put out 40 PSI. Its Just another Power drain to run 2 pumps. ( 1 to feed the booster pump through a bypass port, and then the booster pump )

I'm going to end up having to do a "Demand RV pump', or a "Pressure tank" for like a Mobile Home, 110 volt with a pump cut out pressure switch.

I really dont want to get stuck depending on POWER though, because there is NONE there now (except Gen ) and there might not be in the future.

We really are working on an "OCTOPUS" type setup, where everything is interchangable and mobile and mulit functional... NOT CHAINED DOWN with City Power Lines in one place.

Its Kinda like thinking backwards is really more functional and adaptable than regular city "chained down" setups. A LOT more options and all Portable for the time being.

When 'Normal' people set up their water systems, they only have '1' one way option ***


Best Regards to Long Lost Friends in VA.

Blitzkreigen

[edit on 9-7-2008 by Blitzkreigen]

A little info for pump 101.

I have no clue about 12 volt pumps or 24 volt pumps but I do know much about gasoline, diesel, and natural gas powered along with large electric pumps that can pump up to 25000 GPM. Size does not matter in this regard, the principals are the same.

0 head means no hose, pipe, etc; of any kind. Pump is discharging to open discharge on the pump body. Head pressure is also including the suction side as you can have a positive pressure on the suction which is added to the pressure rating of the pump. No pump can pump water from more than 33 feet of suction. There are scientific reasons for this involving atmospheric pressure and the weight of water. So the suction side can both add or subtract from the rated head pressure on the pump.

You need to figure your head pressure. Even the pipe/hose has friction which adds a surprising amount of friction, not even adding in the 5 foot elevation you mentioned. Don't forget the suction side which was previously mentioned.

You need to look at the TDH rating (Total Dynamic Head) pressure rating for the application you need. Once you know what your friction loss is, you can then figure your GPH capacity; then and only then can you see what horsepower you need for the pump.

There are charts for Hazen-Williams coefficients which will help you figure the friction loss from type and length of pipe used and fittings loss. Some people prefer the DArcy-Weisbach formula to figure this. I'm old school and prefer the old methods.

It's more than just the rated gallons per hour. The wrong pump motor may work great the first few times you use it. It will wear out much faster than if you had purchased the proper horse powered motor for you needs.

Originally posted by hinky
A little info for pump 101.

I have no clue about 12 volt pumps or 24 volt pumps but I do know much about gasoline, diesel, and natural gas powered along with large electric pumps that can pump up to 25000 GPM. Size does not matter in this regard, the principals are the same.

0 head means no hose, pipe, etc; of any kind. Pump is discharging to open discharge on the pump body. Head pressure is also including the suction side as you can have a positive pressure on the suction which is added to the pressure rating of the pump. No pump can pump water from more than 33 feet of suction. There are scientific reasons for this involving atmospheric pressure and the weight of water. So the suction side can both add or subtract from the rated head pressure on the pump.

You need to figure your head pressure. Even the pipe/hose has friction which adds a surprising amount of friction, not even adding in the 5 foot elevation you mentioned. Don't forget the suction side which was previously mentioned.

You need to look at the TDH rating (Total Dynamic Head) pressure rating for the application you need. Once you know what your friction loss is, you can then figure your GPH capacity; then and only then can you see what horsepower you need for the pump.

There are charts for Hazen-Williams coefficients which will help you figure the friction loss from type and length of pipe used and fittings loss. Some people prefer the DArcy-Weisbach formula to figure this. I'm old school and prefer the old methods.

It's more than just the rated gallons per hour. The wrong pump motor may work great the first few times you use it. It will wear out much faster than if you had purchased the proper horse powered motor for you needs.

You are 1000% Correct in your entire post.

You actually sound like you teach the Sta- Rite School for pump sizing and hydraulic engineering.

One 90 degree bend for example is equilivent to 4 feet of straight pipe.

I really do get the concept, I just hate running the numbers until its close to being permenant with PVC pipe.

All my pumps were "Gimmies" except for the 12 volt pumps.

Wehn shopping for a 12 volt pump, the only specs available were head loss at X feet of head.

With that in mind I simply used 0 feet to compare apples to apples and just see what was available for purchase, and at what price.

( Lazy researching )

I found 12 volt pumps from 30 to 550 dollars from 3 GPm to 3600 GPm at 0 feet oh head.

Then it JUMPED to major solar staged pumps that START at 700.00 and are 24 volt, but will go into a bored well and pump UP 220 feet.

I went with the second most expensive pump at like 33oo GPh in 12 volt simple because thats how it was meant to be with finances and availability.
I got it for 202.00 including shipping.

After that was set up and runing, we played with intake and discharge hose and pipe, and lowered the head pressure to a comfortable point.
It will drop even further with PVC pipe, upsized and with 45 degree sweep bends instead of 90's.

I also agree that No pump can SUCK water up 33 feet or more, without a booster JET pushing down, or a SUMP pump in the well pushing UP.

We are right on that line with 30 feet to 'bottom' of the well anf about 9 feet of water standing above that. ( 4 foot DUG well with Red Brick casing )

Thats another project for another day, but I'm planning on trying ALL the pumps in the well and recording the results.

I'm hoping to use a sump pump permenantly, but I would also like to use an above ground POOL pump for rapid movement of water to storage tanks, or cisterns, or barrells.

I'll slowly have to post that info here as it is done.

Thank you for your post, and I do know that you are One Million Percent Correct in everything you stated. I actually have the books, and will need to dust them off when making everything permenant.

We also will be unig 2 " UNIONS to remove pumps and plumbing without cutting. We will be able to switch out easily, or transport to another location if necessary.

Especailly the Garden area... cant run over the PVC with a tractor, and it will have to "swing out of the way" once or twice a year.

Thanks again for keeping me straight. Sometime I get Lazy after doing this for a while, with just "upsizing" from experience. That usually solves most issues, to a point.


I just figured out as well that I can use the "Booster Pump" feed inlet from a 55 gallon barrell, and gravity, meaning I have to operate only 1 pump at a time to actually get pressure. See what you made me do :")

Best regards,

Blitzkreigen

reply to post by Blitzkreigen


Just get a normal well or pool pump and run your solar power into an inverter so you can power the AC pump, we had the same problem the only other suggestion is find the most efficient AC pump you can, We also use 3 times the amount of solar panels we need so it can charge out battery's and give us full power on cloudy days.
Lucky

Originally posted by Anonymous ATS
reply to post by Blitzkreigen

 

Just get a normal well or pool pump and run your solar power into an inverter so you can power the AC pump, we had the same problem the only other suggestion is find the most efficient AC pump you can, We also use 3 times the amount of solar panels we need so it can charge out battery's and give us full power on cloudy days.
Lucky

Got em.

Pool and well pumps 110 volt and 220 volt. 1/2 to 5 hp, and everything inbetween. Many Many choices,

We are trying to avoid the power losses of 'at least' 10 % from the batteries to the inverter. In reality its probably more like 25 % loss.

Also this is a portable system that can be moved from place to place.

We started "Backwards" assuming no AC current available, and got the base units set up.

Now with a generator, we can run the 110 volt pumps with easy, but I 'm considering that "cheating" The 220 volt pumps are not wired with the correct plug ends yet, or plumbed, but they will be for a fire pump very soon. ( emergency Generator Power )

I wanted to stay with 12 or 24 volts, for the same reasons that you stated... using solar and wind to directly charge batteries, and run direct from the banks... not with an inverter... or even a Gasoline engine generator.

I see it as 'laying the foundation', on the simpliest levels, without AC current.

With AC current... the sky is the limit... and thats not a problem, till we pump out all the water.... and thats going to take a really long time...


Thanks for your reply, because out of 600 some odd views on this thread, only 3 people have responded.

I appreciate your input, and your just a few steps ahead of where we are right now. We have the banks and the inverters and interconnects, and stage connectors ( Anderson Power Products ), and small Solar panels... but nothing big enough to fully charge the banks after use. The Wind gernerator is being checked out and a bearing is to be replaced, and that may help over time allowing the wind to do its thing for DAYS between waterings.

You are correct in that the final answer WILL BE to use Large Solar Collectors and a Large Bank O Lead, with the 6000 watt 'start' inverter. ( Stat Power ).

The next step will be to STACK inverters and get 220 volts for the 2 hp through 5 hp motors.

I apprecaite your reply. The Solar Panels are almost within reach financially, one at a time.

Blitzkreigen

I can't believe that I didn't see your thread until now.

I've made six solar collectors for heating water. The first ones were made with the largest copper tubing I could find, and a huge (comparitively) 12V pump that chewed up an inordinant amount of power -- 18 amps.

Later on, I realized that heat transfer is what is important, and have scaled down the copper tubing to 3/8 inch. The circulating pump that I use now is the lowest amperage I could find -- a deep well pump, which draws only 2 amps. I use one to heat our hot tub (don't laugh, when you cross 50, it is no longer a luxury), and another to heat our house hot water. I bought a $100 tempering valve from Grainger, which allows you to set the output temperature on the piping from your HW heater, such that -- in my case -- our hot water is mixed with cold so that nothing hotter than 125 F comes out of the hot water tap. When it's very hot here, the water cycling through the solar collector and HW heater can get very close to boiling.

We now use the large 12 -V pump for pressurizing the water to our house. It has a demand switch on it, such that it only comes on when you use the water. I pressurizes to 40 psi -- plenty for a house, and I got it from Northern Tool. I think it was about $85.00 USD. It runs off a deep-cycle battery, and is charged by a small 30w solar array.

Hope this is useful to your situation. This pump........ it also draws from our well, which is 200 yards from the house and six feet below grade. I'm very impressed with it. It is self-priming, can run dry without damage, and I now have two of them as backup.

cheers!

p.s. We just ordered a solar array. m'Bride and I intend to go off-grid. After hurricane paloma kicked our butts last November, we've pared down our power needs to bare bones, and are happy living at that level. Thus, for us, the hurricane turned out to be a boon.

I'm going to do a thread eventually about the conversion process. Here, where we live, we don't have grid-tie, so it'll be back to basics for us. Solar isn't cheap, and it isn't necessarily efficient, and it takes hands-on maintenance. I don't think we've made a bad choice, but it'll be interesting. We're starting with a 1400W solar array. I'll feel a LOT better when it's safely in my hands

reply to post by hinky


Whoa Hinky....next thing you know you will be teaching him about batching, suction and discharge pressures, and laminar flow....LOL...just kidding, great tutorial there. Sounds like you might be in the pipeline business...eh?