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Almost any camera―either digital or film―will work for photographing the night sky, as long as you can adjust it manually take time exposures of 10 seconds or longer (an all-automatic camera probably won't work well for nighttime sky photos, I'm afraid).
For film, an older mechanical camera body―one that doesn't use batteries to open the shutter―will usually work best. That doesn't mean that your automatic or semi-automatic camera won't work. It's just that long exposures tend to sap battery strength, and you may find yourself changing batteries more frequently than you'd prefer. Always carry with you plenty of spare batteries and a battery charger.
Digital cameras can do a great job if you can set them for a fast ISO (200 or 400), and don't need to take exposures longer than about 30 seconds or so. And don't worry about using a light meter; it'll work only for your daytime photos!
What about Video? Despite how bright and dramatic the night sky can appear to the eye, it's nearly invisible to even low-light video cameras. High-end consumer video cameras might see something, but will also display quite a bit of noise.
8 Digital - Digital cameras produce cleared and overall better images then analogue cameras. They hold colour better, especially reds and orange colour's. More successful video enhancements if you capture something worth looking at. The 3CCD digitals are best though more expensive.
Zero Light Lux - Will capture dim illuminations at night. A must for UFO filming.
Infrared Night Shot - This feature gives you the capability to 'see in the dark' and further captures dim illuminations. No colour is produced but you can 'see further'.
Super Steady Shot - A must for hand held cameras to reduce motion, especially at high zoom factors.
High Optical and Digital Zoom Power - The more powerful the zooming range the better. Most of your filming (even at full zoom) will be using the optical zoom ONLY. Only use the digital zoom if the object is slow moving or very high altitudes. (better to get something rather then nothing). Get into the habit of only digital zooming momentarily just to get some footage , then zoom back to full optical zoom. High digital zoom gives too much pixelization of the image and distorts it.
Telephoto Lens - One accessory that you should get is a telephoto lens. These screw into your filter thread and multiply your zooming power. I use a 2x but 3x and 5x are available, but you will never uses the full capabilities of the 5x because it is just too powerful. The images are too shaky for a hand held camera.
Tri-pod - I have tried using a tri-pod for general readiness to film UFO's, with the camera attached. You will not get any fast objects or overhead objects like this. A tri-pod is best used for distant slow or any slow moving object, especially daytime. You can use your full zoom and get steady images on a tri-pod but are not practical for general use unless you add a quick release feature available from Bogen. Hold your camera in your hand at the ready for any activity. If you consider the tri-pod should then be used, then attach your camera. A good quality fluid head tri-pod like the Miller, or Bogen brand is best. Cheaper ones are too jerky when panning and not worth the savings
Video Tapes - Try different brands of video tapes. Some brands are better for night filming. They respond better to low light conditions.
Powerful Spotlight, Laser or Strobe Light - If you want to see if you can get a response from a UFO, flash a spot light , laser or portable strobe light at it. Making a triangle pattern in the sky often seems to work, Do this while filming so you can record any response
8 Focus - Set to Manual Focus, never use Auto Focus. Auto focus will try to focus on small points of light (especially at night) and automatically zoom in-and-out resulting in footage that is useless or confusing. see example of misidentified ground lights analysis by UUFOH Even daytime footage if filming a small distant or high altitude object may fool the auto focus setting. You want to be able to get clear focus on an object immediately you have it in frame and keep it focused. Sometimes you only have seconds to film an object, so good instant focus is a must.
To Adjust Manual Focus - Apply full optical zoom and adjust focus on a distant object. A Star or Planet such as Jupiter is good, because when the Moons of Jupiter are seen, you are in good focus. Then test the same object in full digital zoom. make any small adjustments for better focus. Then re-test your focus on full optical zoom. When properly adjusted, you are nearly ready to film. Get into the habit to repeat this procedure as first priority each skywatch outing.
Originally posted by healthysceptic
a litery account isn't worth anything... do you have video?