reply to post by SUICIDEHK45
This is going to be a long reply, just to warn you. I am a trapper, my dad was a trapper, and he was self taught, I have trapped in the Midwest, and
now in Alaska. This is some very very basic trapping advice, if you have more specific questions, do ask, and I will do my best to answer in a forum
such as this.
First. Fur fish and game used to be a great trapping magazine. As far as a magazine, subcribe to
The Trapper and Predator Caller
best out there for trappers.
Next, as others have stated, keep your scent away from your trapping area. Keep clean gloves only for setting traps, and wipe them often on spruce or
pine trees. Dont smoke, spit, or do anything else that will put your scent on land. Below water line trapping it really doesnt matter.
Traps that are new will have manufactures oil and residue on them. All new traps (and old ones) should be waxed or dipped. Google trapping dips, or
trapping wax. This will get rid of any human scent on them. Again, for water trapping, this can be skipped.
Talk with local, proven trappers. There is alot of small detail about how to set your pan triggers, how to not catch yourself in a conibear, areas,
etc... that only locals can know.
About your target animals.
Squirrel. Set up small snare lines, I use piano or framing wire to make the snares, cut down a bunch of small sticks about 6-8 feet long, inch in
diameter, tie your snares to them, place at 45% angles around trees, known squirrel locals, etc... I generally place 4-6 snares per pole, sometimes
catch two or three on one pole, have caught weasels in these as well. I dont bait mine, but peanut butter would make sense. Same concept for
rabbits, wait until they have started showing you where their trails are and hang snares all over the place. Be sure that the snare is guarded on
either side forcing the rabbit through the snare. Its amazing to me, Ive been doing this for years, and they still find a way around or to trip my
snares and escape, but you'll catch them eventually.
Coons. No coons up here, but in MI, I used the Grizz Getter Traps. Go to your area, push them in the ground, add bait (fish or something sweet) and
then place a white styrofoam cup on top of the trap. Keeps the rain out, acts as a visual attractant and is easier to check to see if you have a
Skunk. Why target skunks. If a skunk sprays, that area is going to be devoid of game for a good long time. However, if you go after them, they are
very curious. Dirt holes in front of natural depressions, or manmade, such as culverts are very good.
Rats/Mink. I like small sets in the water, exposed, with fish bait and an attractant burried into the bank. You can make elaborate box sets for
mink, but that seems like a good deal of work you dont need to do. Make sure you have your trap tied off to something heavy in the water. Concrete
blocks work well if you cant find anything else. I have 1/2 inch chunks of plate steel with a hole punched in them. Should you choose to use your
110's for mink and rats, find natural channels, shouldnt be that hard, will be a water way about as wide as a mink. Set your trap in the middle,
half above, half below the water, use sticks on both sides of the trap to ensure they must go through the connibear.
Fox/Coyote. Depending on where you are, I would highly reccommend hold off on predators until you are more comfortable with the basics. Get used to
taking the "easy" animals, before attempting to outwit a coyote. I would even venture as far to say that going after beaver would be a better idea
Other things to keep in mind. Have a quick and HUMANE way to dispatch your catch. Have a way to let incidental catches go. Dogs bite and dont
really like being caught in a trap, owls arent legal anywhere and are a nightmare to get out of a trap.
Glad to hear you are trying to learn this skill, even with early setbacks, read everything you can, go to trapping shows, ask lots of questions.
Trappers are predominately a good bunch of people.