posted on Mar, 14 2010 @ 10:36 PM
Hey man, It may sound old to anyone that pays attention to my replys here...but "Foxfire Books" are the answer to almost all your concerns.
Pretend you are a pioneer, a homesteader and have virtually no resources except a few basic tools...an axe, a maul, a cross-cut saw, and a hand turned
wood auger, a good butcher knife, a couple of cast iron frying pans, and a cast iron dutch oven... thats it. Its just about all you'll need...and
yes, bring lots of rope, but don't waste it one furniture, use it like a tool and take care of it.
You can make a bed by using the auger to drill holes in the corner post/head board and making mortise and tendon joints...lock together with pegs
shaped by pocket knife, use a "fro" to split slats from oak logs and run across your bed as a base to lay your matress of canvas and corn shucks on,
switch out at the end of each harvest season.
Make tables and chairs and benches same way.... you can drag logs without a truck or horse by cuting a hardwood tree about 8" that splits into a y
about midway up....turn the wooden "Y" upside down, tie a rope around inverted Y just above where it splits, lay it down on your log and tie end of
rope around log, have enough rope at the split to pull with...the length of rope from Ysplit to log should be about a foot shorter than distance
fromsplitY to ground....so that each time you pull the rope and you pull the inverted Y upright it lifts the log up and forward....once you get the
hang of it, you get a rythym and can pull an 800lb log across a couple of acres with little effort. To explain it is harder than it really is.
Take 2 wooden treetrunk "Y"s, take the long single end and set it into the Y of the other, they will lock by gravity and create a 3 legged work
bench...make 2 sets and you have saw horses for cutting wood, splitting wood with a fro...a fro is a L shaped tool...wooden handle and a long slender
blad at the base sharpend on the bottom...use it to take logs sawn into 1-2 foot lengths, stand upright like gonna split for firewood...BUT, the fro
allows you to split off shingles or shakes...use for roofing, siding, take longer pieces to make boards.
with a frow or sharp knife and a hand auger...you take a green white oak sapling trunk..about 2-3 inches across...split the end into 2...then split
the splits into 2....make the cuts/splits down about 1-2' on a 6 ' pole...now you have the basis for a fork, pitch fork, or rake....cross tie by
drilling small holes and cross tie with green white oak branches....while it is green/wet/fresh the wood is plyable and shapable....set aside to
cure/dry and keep its shape
I could go on, but think of how your grand daddy lived about 1900...or the pioneers...the tools are out there at flea markets/auction houses.... use
them know them, develope the skills now.... all of these things and more are in the Foxfire Book series... entertaining and a valuable resource to
have.
My wife and I live the life...we love it...I love it more than she, she tolerates it...but I have to tell you, this knowledge has been a God-send in
these economic times.
Also, don't forget a push plow...the good ones with heavy wooden handles and steel forged wheels and plows... will cost you but worth every penny,
and learn to can and farm.
Go to historic homesteads and living re-enactments and pay attention to what is being done and how... why do you need a broad axe with a bent handle
to shape timbers? Why is poplar good for cabins? Why is pine good for cabins?... when the bark is striped off the pine when frsh cut, the sticky pine
resin will eventually dry and harden and seal the log...almost water proof...as long as 6-12" off the ground. In fact, if cut on the right side of
the moon, the wood will eventually ring like steel when it cures/drys... seriously...oh, the moon? Yup, you're gonna need a good Almanac.... Blum's
Farmers Almanac is the best.
Anyway, happy survivalist homesteading.