Archery Question, page 1
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ATS Members have flagged this thread 6 times


reply posted on 26-10-2009 @ 05:26 PM by DaddyBare
reply to post by gazerstar



You Might want to look at something like thisCompound bow youth/women
Draw Weights - 20-30, 30-40, and 40-50 lb.
It is a bit pricey but you shouldn't have trouble with draw weight or length

Oh and it doesnt have to be this one... just something like it, try a few out and see what feels good to you... that's the biggie

[edit on 26-10-2009 by DaddyBare]


reply posted on 26-10-2009 @ 06:46 PM by Amagnon
You might want to look at crossbows as well - they can be easier to draw because you can use both hands. They are more accurate for a beginner.
You can also probably find one with a crank or lever for loading.

My friend had a beautiful old antique crossbow with a crank - it had a 300lb draw and you would NOT want to be shot by that. It took a bit of time loading, but was pretty easy - it did weigh a ton though.

But with a crossbow, once loaded, you can relax

For myself - I haven't had a bow for a while, but I had a short fiber glass compound bow with an adjustable draw for a long time (can't remember the draw weight, 60/100 I think - thats very heavy though, even for me and I am a very big guy).

You have to check draw strength for yourself. Get something comfortable for you - don't get too much draw power, it reduces your accuracy - and you'll get sore arms from target shooting.

When I was younger I used a wooden recurve bow - it wasn't really powerful enough for hunting anything big, but it was light and easy to carry, and to string.

EDIT: I would agree with the above poster - a nice recurve is the best place to start. In fact, I would say a compound bow is generally fairly hard to justify - it has some great advantages, but if your hunting and have to do some hiking along with it - then having something simple and light to carry is a pretty big advantage. Might not have the kill power - but if you lack physical strength - then just adjust your game to your bows power.

Also - I like the comment on the slingshot - great hunting weapon - silent, and plenty of kill power for a low draw strength. I use to shoot birds at 40-50 yards with a slingshot - I found it far more accurate than a bow. Also - if you miss with a slingshot - you often find the game doesn't even move - so you can keep shooting till you hit.

[edit on 26-10-2009 by Amagnon]


reply posted on 26-10-2009 @ 11:50 PM by tribewilder
Originally posted by crgintx
No offense to compound bow users but a standard recurve bows of about 30-40 lbs of draw is where most archers should start. Compound bow require professional tuners to shoot properly but recurves are simple as a stone. IMHO only after you can consistently hit deer and pig in the vitals at 25-30 yards with a recurve should you move upto the compound bows.

I actually shoot my wrist slingshot(catapult for the blokes) way more than my bow as it's much more practical for small game than bows. I carry a folding one and a small bag of 000 buckshot when bow hunting for deer and pig. Shooting wrist rocket slingshots at small game is very similar to bow hunting for larger game.

The third quiet option of course is the crossbow which is far more gun like. Not quite as hand as bow but certainly as accurate and deadly with much less practice required to reliably take big game at distances beyond 35 yards as compared to bows.


Listen to this poster gazerstar. A standard recurve although I would seriously consider a take down model. Matthews has a nice one with an aluminum riser that will stand up to a lot, and is not expensive.

If you got an extra set of limbs and a couple of extra strings you would be all set for a shtf situation.

A takedown is also much easier to pack as it comes apart in three pieces, the handle (riser) and the two limbs. If you have a sturdy riser, the only thing that I could see breaking would be the limbs, so it's good to have an extra set. You can also get the two sets of limbs in different strengths, one for learning and a stronger pair for hunting.

With a recurve bow, there is not as much fitting to the individual as there os in a compound bow as the draw length on a compound is fussy and has to be set for the individual. A recurve does not have that limitation, and not nearly as much to go wrong with it.

I do know a lot about archery and have been the provincial champion in the past. Don't let anyone sell you something that looks like it has too many parts if you are looking for a survival bow. The more it has, the more can go wrong with it.

I would suggest no more than a 30 pound pull on the one set of limbs, and since you are not so strong, a draw weight of 45 pounds for the second set.

I have a couple of recurves in the 60 pound range, and I wouldn't recommend them even for a man unless he has built up the muscles needed.



reply posted on 27-10-2009 @ 11:11 AM by Silcone Synapse
reply to post by gazerstar



I would go for a recurve bow,as theres a lot less parts to go wrong than a compound bow.
Recurves are cheaper,and possibly more durable too.

Heres my recurve:

www.hunarchery.com...

Its 75# draw,and really packs a punch.Make sure you find your own draw weight from a pro/shop though.
I would also reccomend you look at making your own arrows,as this cuts down on costs.
Buy a fletching jig and some shafts and tips,then you can make/repair your own arrows.
This helped me with concentration,as you don't want to lose an arrow you have spent time making yourself!!(so I aim more carefully)
If you do decide to make your own arrows,make sure to choose shafts with a "spine" strength to correspond to your bows draw weight.
Finally,you may want to invest in a good forearm protector,as some people get pretty bad welts from the string hitting the inside of the forearm(you will know if you fall into this catergory after your first 20 or so shots.

Use as many different types of bow as you can before you buy,to get a good feel for what is comfortable for you.

Heres where I get my arrow components from,BTW:

www.english-longbow.co.uk...

Have fun,and be safe.


reply posted on 27-10-2009 @ 08:01 PM by Ahabstar
reply to post by redgy



Very nice. As an old traditional shooter that looks like quite of bit of fun. And that is a good enough excuse to make one. Quite an improvement on the sling-crossbow pistol I made as a kid.

It was the wooden stock of a flintlock style cap gun with all the metal hardware removed and the prod was just a piece of a sycamore branch nailed on the stock. A really good rubber band stapled to the limbs with a leather swatch for the pouch. It would fire a de-fuzzed cattail reed pretty far and at close ranged did serious damage to a sheet of cardboard. It might have taken a squirrel or bird, but I never tried.


reply posted on 28-10-2009 @ 02:40 AM by notreallyalive
Originally posted by redgy
For a shtf senario I personally wouldn't want to lug around those heavy type bows all day long, I would personally just use the slingshot with slingbow attachment for arrows if necessary.

www.youtube.com...



Good idea! I have a bowstring in my survival kit but a sling would be great until I made the bow and arrows. Could a sling be as powerful and long-distance as a make-shift bow?


[edit on 28-10-2009 by notreallyalive]


reply posted on 28-10-2009 @ 12:02 PM by Doc Holiday
I understand that modern bows are heavey and yes they need to be "tuned" but as long as you have access to modern equip. use it and learn what "tuning" really is because evan if you use a long bow or make a stick bow for survival, you still need to understand "tiller, nock point, arrow spine, basic bow string knots, and much much more.
Yes I agree big lumbersome compounds would be no good in survival, but the guy/gal that has that knowledge of tuning and proper use of technoloy, will definately have the upper hand with a long/recurve bow.
By learning anchor points and repeteablity, and what a person with a stick bow can really do with a good anchor and basic sights "aiming referances"
No you don't need mechanical sights to aim, you can use scratch or pencil marks on the back of your riser "above the hand position" for distance, and string center line for right and left.

I do like traditional bows and own a few, and in most cases can shoot my stick bow better than the general population , can shoot compounds.

Stay far away from cross bows, they have a really bad mechanical advantage, are extremely noisey, and are by far not near as accurate as any real bow, and not as fast as modern bows... but all the ppl that fall for the "cool looking" stuff still like them, and they are the same ppl that fall for the gun tech crap too. They have big $$ pistols tech 9's, glocks, and the likes, not that they won't work but, ammo and usability will overcome them in the end.
Knowledge and pratical user friendly items that don't require "special" equipment will become the best and only thing left real quik if a true SHTF happens..

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