That´s only an indication, to show how to calculate that peace off the pyramid floor side, so to make it be in the correct place and not off centre.
Afterwards, the pipe holes at the front of the pyramid, will be made new.
Now, I took that off, to make a one size part out of it, instead of spending a while time, making five parts! The square and four "C" parts.
It´s quite long, from corner to corner of the BBoard. Eventually, 3-4 cm were missing, but that´s no problem at all. I just added another peace to
The finished drawn part. I further changed it a little bit more that you´ll see later.
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The "lower" finished part!
And here at the right, that corner, that had to be fixed! And I fixed it! You could use here a harder cardboard, off cardboard boxes!
And here you can see, why the bottles need that extra support underneath them! The "C" parts bend! If the lengthy "" bottle support part is
level enough with the bottle, then this shouldn´t happen. But for now, it´s OK!
Before you always start in cutting in the bottle hole, never forget this, To always have an empty bottle inside. That´ll press down the construction
work, and so, the hole will be correctly done.
Now, this looks much better! The pipes are Level with each other. What a relief! And now a picture, without the ruler.
Now, we´ll have to fix the length, of the pipe.
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It says here. Add 1 cm (+/-), but better plus to it.
After I had this pipe done, I had to make some more changes to it´s front, right side. I guess now, that it looks much like at the left. To make the
rear part of about 1 cm longer, just place the old one down. Mark it the way it´s shown here but push up the flattened pipe (old one) to the left of
about 1cm, and Mark that one now.
By the Flaps. Here, you just make those cut in´s!
Now, replaced with the new pipe, it´s pretty tight in there! That´s the front side.
...and that´s the rear! It´s actually pushing the pyramid wall outwards, like the following birds eye view will show.
Another good thing is, when you Mark your front sides, with a marking. So you know, how it´s level, while working at the back part. Normally, in my
other pyramid models, I never made the pipes so far, until touching the pyramid wall.
These additional flaps, just cut them off.
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These markings will help you also, while working on the pipes, for centering them.
Now, we´re ready to continue, ...cutting the pipes into proper size!
By looking like that, from the side, you will recognize, how much needs to be shortened.
Having the pyramid differently positioned, you will recognize the difference better for marking the difference "about" in.
After correcting the lines a bit, you now should re "press" the lines with a pen.
And now, come in the cut in´s. By making the cut in´s, I noticed, that when the bottle´s so positioned, where the drop off starts, near the neck.
That it´s easyer to do the cut in´s! The knife slides nicely down as it would by the straight, flat surface of the bottle. Try it out, it´s worth a
With a cap, press in the folding lines. It´s like ironing!
Now, that looks much better, now doesn´t it???
The rest, will be cut off, but please, leave some to be used, for gluing on! ;-)
Now, that looks much better!
..and after! This here, may not look to be yet perfect, due to the fact, that I let go of the pyramid cover, to take this picture, that´s why, this
looks like that.
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In my apartment, there are all together + the one, I´m working on, for you guys, "33"! And many, many more, that I didn´t count. I even had one
made, where you place it over your head, like a helmet. It fits perfectly right over your head, "custom made"! But, nothing came out of it. I
didn´t have any special experiences with it. Unlike, when you sit in a large pyramid, IF you meditate in a specific direction, that you want to
achieve, then you´ll achieve it but if you do nothing, and just sit in it, then you achieve the same, like in the head pyramid + Nothing.
I just remembered, to place in here another picture of one of my favorite pyramids, that I made only three off! I made it in 1991, in Beeton, ON.,
Canada and gave it to a relative of mine, when they were on a visit in Canada, but at a different place. He still has it, in en Excellent condition,
as if I had made it just a few minutes ago. He gave it to his daughter, cause she likes pyramids too.
That´s quite a challenge, to keep a BBoard pyramid in mint condition. Everything can happen, go wrong. It could get wet, squashed etc. My respect to
The following pics, are out of a video, that I copied. Unfortunately, I don´t have original pictures of it, but may be, I´ll consider in making
another one and placing the "How to steps in here again"! It´s actually a savings bank. Even has a trap door in one of the corners, that, as I
looked for it once, I couldn´t find it at once! That well it is decorated, just like the Egyptians do it, hide things, that are actually in front of
you, that´s an Art!
Nicely detailed decorated, VERY time consuming it was! It´s actually a temple within a temple, with stairs. It´s the same, like the one above, the
yellow one! Only a bit smaller.
At the front, plastic cover, on the top. I´ve got there a $1,- Canadian dollar coin glued on. That looks nicer and you´ll know at once, where the
coin slot is at, @ the top!
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Eventually, I made some other models alike too, for instance, for UFO fans. I made a small UFO with a Dom on top of it standing on a cut off pyramid,
their base. And that UFO, with the little cut off pyramid underneath it, sit inside such a pyramid, like this here. But that wasn´t it yet! That
model, was actually a "2" savings bank! There was a coin slot on the one side of the pyramid, where those coins would fall into the UFO and little
pyramid in and on the other side, @ the other coin slot, those coins would fall into the actual pyramid. They both had two separate trap door
openings. I´ll go look for the picture, it´s also on film.
The tee spoons and coffe cups, already told you, how big it is, but here I am with my hand on.
....so, went looking for it.
And here is the top left one again! Below left, are the savings banks pyramids and at the top right and below right, those two are one and the same!
That was also made, like the yellow pyramid, only with the apex area, shortened a bit and mounted/re-placed on top of it another smaller pyramid.
After decorating it, the way it´s shown here, one couldn´t tell, whether the apex was one or a part of it. There, you could have placed into it,
your crystal or what ever.
Here´s the one, from above, only the picture doesn´t look so good, as the way above ones!
That was a pretty cool pyramid and it was a bit larger, as the above ones. About 12 inches Base length, 30cm. In the next pics, I had to enlarge them
quite a bit, so you can recognize something. There too, you´ll see the primitive UFO model inside the pyramid but, if I had continued on, making more
of them UFO types ~ Pyramid models, they would have become more better looking. Well, it still isn´t too late for that, now is it?! Also, you will
see that larger pyramid here, standing beside the Beeton savings bank pyramid, for size comparison!
The UFO Pyramid, is at the top left corner! And the bottom left pyramid Temple, is the same in design, as the one from Beeton, like above but has
other dark coloration designs on it. Those colorations make it appear, as if it is a steep pyramid but it´s not. It´s like the other ones, you see
on the top too!
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The UFO ~ $AVING$ BANK Pyramid! The UFO itself, is made of BBoards and covered with aluminum foil.
From the outside of the cover pyramid, you determine, how large, tall, wide and the shape, you want your drawer to have. The drawer sides, the easiest
way to make them, is to have them straight, like a shoe carton/box OR, if you´d like to have it more fancy, then do them in an angle/slope, like I
did it. The idea´s great! The work ... complicated.
After you´ve marked, measured and have drawn the shape of your drawer in, to make it easyer, puncture the corners with your pen, needle or a circle
needle but watch your fingers.
On this side now, you connect the points with lines, to be cut out! You don´t need to dismantle the cover pyramid, the cover´s very flexible.
Also, cutting that peace out is not a problem, like that!
Eventually, when you´ve made your inside layer drawer cover/casing/shell and it should be a bit to larger to the hole, just cut the hole a bit larger
instead of re-designing the whole drawer casing. Instead of the casing, you could save you some time by placing at the drawer floor level of the hole,
only a peace of BBoard, for the actual drawer to move above but, if you´d remove the drawer from the cover pyramid, strangers could look so inside of
If you do it "WITH" a drawer casing, then, there won´t be anything to look inside at!
Now you need to figure out, the height of the drawer floor, for a drawer support stabilizer. This method is the same, like by the yellow Experimental
Pyramid, where you´ve measured the 1/3 base section to the ground, for the stabilisers height. Here, I used a bit different method. Just take a peace
of BBoard and draw in a few markings like I have done. If you´re aren't exact, do some corrections until you´ve got it. Afterwards, by calculating
the height off it, please do also calculate about 1 millimeter of the bend part BBoard.
And here it is! The drawer support "Square"!
By placing another straight peace of BBoard or a ruler, you can see, if it´s not to high or low! Otherwise, you´re drawer´s going to encounter some
....another view of it!
Measuring the drawer floor, but measure +1millimeter over each sides because the casing of the drawer, will be mounted/glued in later like that! The
actual drawer will be a few millimeters narrower, so it´ll be able to push it inside and out of it again.
And with the sides also, the same procedure!
I´ve got all the width written down except for the lengths of the bottom and top lids. The drawings show, the way the casing will be placed inside of
it. The front flaps, will be bend outwards and the rear ones, inwards but over the drawer casings walls NOT inside to be glued otherwise, you´ll have
the same thing, like by the pipes with the round end bottle stoppers.
Once again! Also, don´t forget to add the lengths! Eventual, what I will do and may be you should too, is to make yourself a ruler out of, for
instance BBoard, where all the casings and drawers measurements are noted. So, as you make a copy off your Template drawer casing for example, draw
the lines in lightly and re-examine them, before making, pressing those lines.
This ruler IS a good idea, if you´ll make a lot of those models, of pyramids that have these templates, like the casing. After a while, that template
casings edges, cut out lines, WILL WEAR OUT! And now comes that ruler into the game!!!
That finished drawer will be a bit low and narrow but deep. You can eighter make a simple drawer, without a lid and a hole in the lid, to place in
your crystals and vice verso and that will support this drawer additionally in sturdiness or make one, like a normal furniture drawer. It´s your
Eighter way! I´ll be making one, with a rectangular hole in the lid, like in my crystal pyramid with the sarcophagus crystal container and two
drawers. I refer to that model, as the "large, yellow MAYA´n step pyramid"! That one has such drawers, that I will make.
And here is such a ruler. Eventually, you can make more nicer looking. And this is, what I mean with it. After you´ve drawn in lightly your markings
lines, re-correct them with such a ruler just by starting right at the flaps. Add the flaps on it, to prevent such simple mistakes.
To figure out the angle/slope of the casing and drawer, just use your Pyramid Template, that should do the trick. So or so, you may have to do again
corrections, on the two drawer parts like I did.
Eighter you line up your template Pyramid on it and draw the side lines or make a much more straighter line, by using your P-Template
(Pyramid-Template), AND your ruler. Remove the P-Template and use your ruler the way it is now, to draw the line. That Pyramid works like a building
blocks principle. No matter, how big the parts are, they all fit in like that drawer´s supposed to.
Looks kinda messy, but I did it again! But that doesn´t mean, that it´ll fit perfectly!
The drawer casing! The first mistake is at the rear part, the side wall of it is a bit too long. Below, a better view at it!
As you look at it like that, you can see, that all the lines at the rear are straight, so it must be the fault of the side wall. That part, cut it off
in an angle to the others by visually determining it. At the right side, the same problem.
The front comes in like that.
Here´s the mistake one more time.
The drawer casing inside the pyramid! A view, like the Egyptians must have had, when they´ve build their pyramids. And once this projects done, you
may also place additionally a smaller, square peace underneath the apex, with a crystal glued on it.
This isn´t going to give us much, since we´re not ~ well, may be not all of us so sensible to specific spiritual, metaphysical and or dimensional
matters. Unless you can see the energy smoke rising up off the apex and by adding that crystal. It´s all up to you. I did it a few times, and has my
life changed a bit? I don´t know, may be it has may be it hasn´t!
The pyramid WITH the drawer casing.
You can see a shadow at the top, underneath the casing and inside and at the left side, also inside the drawer casing. That means, that the casing is
a bit too small OR, the drawer hole is a bit too small. You got it! It´s the drawer hole, that is too small. So, we´ll just widen it a little bit.
First, mark it somehow inside it, with a short marker by drawing blindly into the inside of it, against the wall and the drawer template casing,
That´ll leave some marks.
Like by the sticking out pipes at the beginning, where I had to mark, to be cut off to length that pipe. Similar to that, the marker trick.
Here, the both shades are well visible. And on the right, it´s fine.
Inside, you can see the flaps, being inside. That, we don´t want to have, so they´ll be glued also externally onto the wall sides.
At the rear of the casing drawer, ...it´s not perfectly touching the rear pyramid wall, but that´s OK! If necessary, you may glue in in between a
narrow looking/cut triangle.
...a close-up! The rear should be so aligned, like that line on the pyramid cover goes.
This is a new made drawer casing, nice, clean and correct! Showing at the rear, how the flaps will be glued to the sides of the drawer casing
The wavy lines at the back, show the flaps, where they´re at.
These markings are for the actual DRAWER! You can copy it with the drawer casing template but make afterwards the lines of about 1 - 1/2 to 2
millimeters narrower! The Drawer will be of 2 mm (Millimeters) smaller.
Here, the DRAWER inside the drawer casing.
Here right, I forgot to leave a flap. Provisionally, you may tape a cut out flap on it and after you make a new copy of that template, you won´t
forget it again.