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Knowledge of Pyramids and HOW 2 make them!

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posted on Jun, 9 2008 @ 04:40 PM
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:wine2


Keep on cutting peaces out of it!


So, and that might be just a bit too much, but that´s OK! I´ll show you in a moment, one of two or both steps that you may apply. If, for some reason, you started to make a wine-pyramid on Sunday, and you shouldn´t have any tape at home or too little of it, then you may cover these holes with BBoard scraps, by just cutting provisional round peaces and then gluing them into place, like I will show you.


well, it´s not that bad after all.




Now, we´re going to prepare for the long bottle pipe. As described, make it longer as is actually needed!


To make it appropriate it´s size, roll that bottle in with that BBoard, to make the pipe or tube. When you have the pipe tightened onto the bottle, make a line along it and from there, leave a space of about 2-3 cm. If you make it too tight but it´s still possible, to slight the bottle inside, ...you won´t get it out again! You just created a vacuum! Therefore, be good and leave some space between it. I know! I made that mistake already!! :crying


Now, you have a better over view, of the angle, that you need to make the pipe endings in. Don´t forget, to leave at least 1cm of flaps to it, otherwise, you´ll have to do that roll of pipe all over again or you´ll have to improvise!


...done! The way it´s overlapping the front at the right, it should do the same at the left. But eighter way, corrections will have to be done all the way anyways.


At the rear part, if that outline was more straight, that can do the job too, instead of the flaps + as alternative solution.


Now, that´s a nice view to look at!


By taking a marker and drawing around it, the way the opening is, will be that much, what will be inside the pyramid of your pipe ending. Add to it some flaps for the glue.


Here now, comes my Insulation tape. I find it more practical, to work with it rather then with normal packaging or scotch tape.


By putting on the tape, go as close to the bottle, as possible BUT, do not tape down the bottle. And also, once you´re done with this and by pulling out the bottle, you may have to twist it, to get it out due to the tapes stickiness. But that´s not too bad.


You don´t have to be too precise for it yet, it´s though a good idea, because that pipe may be done over again one more time.


And here´s that solution, with the scrap BBoards. Just keep on gluing such peaces all around it, until it´s well covered.


Here I used some white parts for it. I pre cut them with different circles on it, until that came out of it.


This is a view from underneath, looking up! Note the marker lines! Nice and tight. You just need to glide your marker along that, to be cut off part. It´ll mark itself!


After taking that pipe out, you´ll now need to cut it a bit down and then cut in the flaps. You do it, the way I show it here or you take the bottle BBoard pipe apart and do it the other way. I noticed, by cutting in the slots on the flaps, that when you have the pipe so close to the bottles neck, that by cutting, the knife will run almost by itself over and down instead of cutting on the straight part of the bottle. It´s your part, try it out but don´t cut yourself. And, you don´t need to cut in such steep triangular flaps. You would, if you´d bend the flaps inwards but not in the opposite direction.


This is, how it´s going to look like and it would have been nice, if the other side would have had a longer peace on it. But it´s a good thing, that you´re reading these post descriptions first, before doing it yourself, that way you may prepare yourself for unwanted surprises. But I also present to you these mistakes, so you all will see, that making these Pyramids, isn´t that easy, as they look, if you got to work from scrap!


Some closer look... The tape, to hold the pipe in place, that you see on top of the pipe, you should also tape it from inside, for more sturdiness.


Now come the bottle end stoppers! To prevent the bottle of hitting the pyramids end wall. Just trace it down with your bottle and leave some space for the flaps. Also, very important!
WINE FOR ABOUT €"2,- , the bottles are thinner as are the bottles for €5,- ..so you know!


The in colour stopper is shown the wrong way inside. The flaps should look the other way. It´s not that bad, it´s just for the case, that someone sees your nice self made pyramid and may be wants to take some pictures of it without the bottles. As soon, as She or he takes the picture from inside the pipes, these flaps will be visible. And, if you glue them in the other way, they won´t! That way, it´ll be more professional made, as if out of one peace.




Now, taking the roll/pipe apart, to fix up the rear part with the flaps.




After placing it onto a new sheet of BBoard, draw around the outlines and make up an additional 1cm of flaps on it. Both sides should be replicas of the other. Later on, I will run into some further problems, with having the rear pipe a bit still too short. So you´re warned ahead of time. :gah :wink: :wink:


Now, I´ll show you a neat trick, how to make these pipes so perfectly round! This is only a 1/3 of it because I wanted to show you, how this looks, before I do the rest of it. A very simple trick!


And that´s it! With both of your hands, hold that pipe, the way I hold it here and push it against the table and downwards! The more you press against it, the rounder it´ll get, so please be gentle with it. :sunny But try it out, with other peaces first, to see, how much is enough!




In this picture, you do the same thing as before. Marking the tight pipe and then loosening it about 2-3millimeters. The flap beneath it, will be eventual glued to the pipes other side.


Here now, tape down above and below that pipe, to strengthen it.




:horse Here´s that "C" part onto the saddle! Additionally on it, will be the pipe glued on, when it´s time for it, NOT NOW! On the end part of the pipe, is already placed the end stopper peace for the bottle. Like I said, the flaps should point outwards, not the way it is now.


The crookedness of the right pipe, I demonstrated it here, not to lose orientation! Don´t concentrate onto the top part of the pipes, that they have to be in the middle. That´s not so important. Important is, that the pipes will be straight at the front like in the next pic.




Here now, is a good example, of the stoppers being like that inside. I hope, that your wine-pyramid will be in the black colour because it has to be in that colour. It´ll also be a bit more difficult to see the drawn in lines on it. And that black colour kind of swallows up the light and therefore, little mistakes aren´t so easily found, but still, it has to be black. But, should it be of a lighter colour, these wrong inverted bottle stoppers, will be much easily seen.

I just thought of something! Might as well, make your wine-pyramid of a nice bright, coloured colour, even yellow but, for the bottle pipes and stopper, you´d have to make them black. Problem solved! :sunny


Another good idea to do, so not to lose one´s orientation on the,"where´s the top of the pipe"? Is to mark the top with a square or rectangle. That´ll keep an eye on you.




And these end pipes, of the rear, don´t look right, right? Well, ...normally, you´d have to do it over again OR, you improvise! Which I already did, by marking the parts with a marker, by looking at those pipes from the side and the pyramid cover in the background. Now you´ll have an excellent view, to correct that Bu BU + ...that´s baby talk. It means, Mistake! :sunny


And here´s the correct way, the stopper should be inside! Once you glue it in, to make sure, that it´s nice and straight, just push inside the pipe your bottle as a helpful wall for it, while you push the stopper lightly against the bottle floor.


With a ruler or some kind of flat thing, you may check the straight and correctness of the pipe angle and how far they´re, where they supposed to be.


Underneath the pipe flaps and above the floor flaps, the flaps are overlaying each other. You should cut back the pipe´s flaps and if necessary the ones of the pyramid/base floor too.


About that, you will see it already done later on. Did you notice the holes? The right one is lower as is the left one. That´s due to a little uneven mistake, that came from the saddles. Such a small carelessness brought about such a big different. Therefore, always make a good job, what ever you do. :embarassed:


And suddenly...???? How did that happen???? I switched the base around, and that came out of it. So, also, mark your base and pyramid cover with front. But then again, it´s a good thing, that it happened, otherwise I would have discovered that mistake much too late.


But it´s only a good thing, that we now know, how to fix such mistakes, ain´t it? If that would have been out of wood, then there wouldn´t have been much to fix. Alternatively, instead of making such a complicated BBoard pyramid, you could make one just as well, out of a solid block of Styrofoam or the same, out of wood. But then again, there will be a lot of mess out of wood and Styrofoam flakes. In the back of these holes, are no stoppers. That´s just the blank pyramid cover wall.




posted on Jun, 9 2008 @ 04:43 PM
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:wave :sunny ...and off we go again!!!!!!!!


Visually, you may mark the to be cut off parts.


And or cut it in with your knife, so later on, as you have the pyramid cover facing down, you just need to cut along the end cuts that you´ve made.


Cutting in the second hole! An uneasy feeling, not wanting to make a mistake, but relax! Everything will be OK.




I exaggerated here a bit, only to show, that it´s no problem, to make mistakes!




That´s the rear of the Pyramid. As I mentioned earlier, fix up the rear pyramid cover with the pyramid floor, to prevent problems.


Now it´s nice and tight!






So, here I changed the width of the pyramid cover on the far right! Looks much better now!
Also make sure, that the empty bottle IS inside the pipe, while taping the sides shut. The bottle, will keep a pressure onto the saddle and therefore, your pipe hole will be done correctly, otherwise, the pipe hole may be made a bit raised up!




Here at the top left, still some of the writings visible, it says, "smooth edge"! That, you may have to do later, smoothing out the hole edges or rims, with eighter your thumb fingernail or a pens flat surface. It´s only, to smooth-en it out, so it looks, as if the pyramid cover and the pipes, were made out of one mold. But that, I´ll show you later, on the final "to be made" Pyramid.


Looks pretty well done, doesn´t it? It´s good to have such alternative ideas. ;-) Should you have a larger area to tape, and that part of tape, touches a lot of the pipe flaps, what you may do and it does help, is by licking that part of tape, that will touch the flaps, a bit off! Then, when it´s wet, it won´t stick! That´s also a good insight to know, now isn´t it? Yes, it is.


Now, you´ll be copying that raw Template with the holes onto another New and clean template with a marker, it may be a thick marker. Just draw around and also onto the over standing tape, to put in a line, to be cut off. Re draw that triangle, the way you see it here with the flaps. You´ll see how many you´ll need, of the flaps. Cut the old one out and replace it with the new one.


By cutting later on that New egg shaped part out, just cut it so, to smooth-en the sharp corners out, that were left behind by the tapes and drawing into it with the marker.


And here, I saw my mistake! One´s lower and the other one´s higher up, but that´s life! As soon, as you get that problem fixed, your next, future Pyramid models, won´t have that problem again, if it´s of the same Template made. I had to learn it the hard way too.


The New and the older one! Since I left at the New Template, one flap on each side, I just needed to lay it on top the other, to see the difference.


So! Some more work´s waiting for me, fixing that problem here.



When I did my Pyramid models, I didn´t experience that Mistake error because, I used a different kind of saddle for the bottle pipes. I used the following, which is quit time consuming and complex in it´s design. But, with the reward, that I didn´t have that problem here!

That design, was my first one of this kind. I used to cover it additionally with another floor on top of the white areas, due to the first 2er wine-pyramid. You could see inside of it, as you looked inside the bottle holes. Eventually, I changed that design, by replacing that bottle tray model, with the bottle Pipes! Now, it appears more as a More solid Pyramid.

That black part above, is made out of only one sheet of BBoard!










The other negative thing, for having an open space like this here, is that the interior will get all dusty. But if you use your wine-pyramids, for the only purpose, to get your wine get faster older - quickly-er and otherwise, won´t do anything with it, then it doesn´t matter. But, if you have it some where in your living room, you do want to show it off to your friends, don´t you? And, if it´s kinda dusty, that isn´t going to impress them a lot, don´t you think? They will get dusty anyways, but that you can get off, with such a feather stick duster. Just be careful with it, dusting at the glitter area, if you have glitter on it. I´m sure you will.




Here, the drawer of it and behind it, at the right, is the next picture of a close up, of the bottle hole. That one there, is too a prototype, therefore, not so perfectly done, but shall someone ask me to do one for them, then I will do it perfectly. But here, you have it, the whole designs and ideas, and therefore you CAN do it yourself.


Now, that looks much better, doesn´t it???


And that one here, is the Pyramid, that you saw at the start of this project! The edges have been nicely smoothened, like I explained to you earlier, with using your fingernails or a pen. Also, you may decorate the hole entrance like I have but not for covering the flaps, if they show up. The dried glue, will scratch your bottles, by pushing them in end out.
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You will have also have noticed, smudges of glue here and there on the prototypes, well, that is what I mean. Prototypes are therefore there, to figure out mistakes and think of alternative methods. Those mistakes, you will hopefully remember, by the next time, when you do your actual Pyramid, for yourself and your friends, to prevent those mistakes ~ hopefully. But should you get a smudge onto your final Pyramid, try to rub it off!
That may smudge it more, depending on the glue type, (By Pattex that I use, it actually gets rubbed off), and looks like eraser rubbish, or just leave it the way it is. Alternatively, you may have to decide, to place a kind of decoration onto it. May be a plastic OR Real Diamond, or draw a glitter deco on it. Remember, there is always a solution to problems.

That reminds me of a SOLVED PROBLEM to the best SOLUTION, regarding the bottle saddle from above! Not my black ones, but the ones at the beginning of this project!

If this works, "I´m going to try it out later", then you´ve saved yourself and I, a lot of Now and in the future, design headaches.

Just make yourself such a Frame for your bottle pipes! Tape that down onto the Pyramid floor, while you´re working with the bottle pipes in or rather, ON the hole. Or make a larger one, for both of them.


The second top picture, for the rear Pyramid, That is incorrect! There is a wall there! It can´t look through OR, This could be also a solution for that problem, eighter way. Since you have to make a new Pyramid cover later on anyways, you might as well cut a hole in the other side of the pyramid. Through that, you push a longer tube, which will also be pushed through a pipe. That longer pipe will keep the flats pipe in place, for corrections on the hole openings in the front. I´, going to try that out later on too.




Just to show and to remind you, of cutting the lower portion off, of the pyramid floor flaps. Eventually, also the flaps of the bottle pipe!


That here, is a super idea from me! I just cut out a large peace out of the side, of the cover pyramid, to see and to correct differentials of problems. That, what´s written there, just ignore that!


Now, you and I will be able, to see, if the angled bottle pipes are really attaching to the wall of the pyramid. If not, well, then that needs to be fixed.




That´s the inside, viewed towards the front!


And that´s the other side! The rear side. Here, you can already see, the about 1 cm gap between the pyramid wall and pipes. So, we´re going to fix that problem now!




How to fix that problem? Easy! I´ve just got to do those pipes again, only about a centimeter longer. Afterwards, I can still do some changes, which will be done.


As you look inside of it, you can see, that the rear pipe is crooked! Well. Here we go with the "square" (saddle) changes. I thought so, that this wasn´t going to work that well after all because, the pipes do need some kind of support, so they wouldn´t roll to the sides. The white "saddle" above here, is just as fine, as long as it is straight but I did a square saddle anyways, just to satisfy me and you.


And here it is now! The ruler supports the pipe from rolling over.
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And here´s the solution! The same, like at the beginning. But for now, you will need only four of them and there after. Or, you do it, like I do. Tape them together, like you will see in a moment and make ONE part out of it.




The centre peaces, to support the weight of the bottle, you must have them too or similar ones but there must be some kind of support underneath the bottles otherwise, the sides, of the square will collapse, when you work now with it. Once everything´s glued together, and the pipe flaps onto the pyramid inside cover, they´ll be supported from all over.






posted on Jun, 9 2008 @ 04:44 PM
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That´s only an indication, to show how to calculate that peace off the pyramid floor side, so to make it be in the correct place and not off centre. Afterwards, the pipe holes at the front of the pyramid, will be made new.


Now, I took that off, to make a one size part out of it, instead of spending a while time, making five parts! The square and four "C" parts.




It´s quite long, from corner to corner of the BBoard. Eventually, 3-4 cm were missing, but that´s no problem at all. I just added another peace to it.


The finished drawn part. I further changed it a little bit more that you´ll see later.
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The "lower" finished part!


And here at the right, that corner, that had to be fixed! And I fixed it! You could use here a harder cardboard, off cardboard boxes!








And here you can see, why the bottles need that extra support underneath them! The "C" parts bend! If the lengthy "[]" bottle support part is level enough with the bottle, then this shouldn´t happen. But for now, it´s OK!


Before you always start in cutting in the bottle hole, never forget this, To always have an empty bottle inside. That´ll press down the construction work, and so, the hole will be correctly done.


Now, this looks much better! The pipes are Level with each other. What a relief! And now a picture, without the ruler.




Now, we´ll have to fix the length, of the pipe.
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It says here. Add 1 cm (+/-), but better plus to it.


After I had this pipe done, I had to make some more changes to it´s front, right side. I guess now, that it looks much like at the left. To make the rear part of about 1 cm longer, just place the old one down. Mark it the way it´s shown here but push up the flattened pipe (old one) to the left of about 1cm, and Mark that one now.


By the Flaps. Here, you just make those cut in´s!






Now, replaced with the new pipe, it´s pretty tight in there! That´s the front side.


...and that´s the rear! It´s actually pushing the pyramid wall outwards, like the following birds eye view will show.




Another good thing is, when you Mark your front sides, with a marking. So you know, how it´s level, while working at the back part. Normally, in my other pyramid models, I never made the pipes so far, until touching the pyramid wall.


These additional flaps, just cut them off.
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These markings will help you also, while working on the pipes, for centering them.


Now, we´re ready to continue, ...cutting the pipes into proper size!


By looking like that, from the side, you will recognize, how much needs to be shortened.


Having the pyramid differently positioned, you will recognize the difference better for marking the difference "about" in.






After correcting the lines a bit, you now should re "press" the lines with a pen.


And now, come in the cut in´s. By making the cut in´s, I noticed, that when the bottle´s so positioned, where the drop off starts, near the neck. That it´s easyer to do the cut in´s! The knife slides nicely down as it would by the straight, flat surface of the bottle. Try it out, it´s worth a try.


With a cap, press in the folding lines. It´s like ironing!


Now, that looks much better, now doesn´t it???


The rest, will be cut off, but please, leave some to be used, for gluing on! ;-)


Now, that looks much better!






..previous!


..and after! This here, may not look to be yet perfect, due to the fact, that I let go of the pyramid cover, to take this picture, that´s why, this looks like that.
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In my apartment, there are all together + the one, I´m working on, for you guys, "33"! And many, many more, that I didn´t count. I even had one made, where you place it over your head, like a helmet. It fits perfectly right over your head, "custom made"! But, nothing came out of it. I didn´t have any special experiences with it. Unlike, when you sit in a large pyramid, IF you meditate in a specific direction, that you want to achieve, then you´ll achieve it but if you do nothing, and just sit in it, then you achieve the same, like in the head pyramid + Nothing.

I just remembered, to place in here another picture of one of my favorite pyramids, that I made only three off! I made it in 1991, in Beeton, ON., Canada and gave it to a relative of mine, when they were on a visit in Canada, but at a different place. He still has it, in en Excellent condition, as if I had made it just a few minutes ago. He gave it to his daughter, cause she likes pyramids too.

That´s quite a challenge, to keep a BBoard pyramid in mint condition. Everything can happen, go wrong. It could get wet, squashed etc. My respect to him!

The following pics, are out of a video, that I copied. Unfortunately, I don´t have original pictures of it, but may be, I´ll consider in making another one and placing the "How to steps in here again"! It´s actually a savings bank. Even has a trap door in one of the corners, that, as I looked for it once, I couldn´t find it at once! That well it is decorated, just like the Egyptians do it, hide things, that are actually in front of you, that´s an Art!





Nicely detailed decorated, VERY time consuming it was! It´s actually a temple within a temple, with stairs. It´s the same, like the one above, the yellow one! Only a bit smaller.


At the front, plastic cover, on the top. I´ve got there a $1,- Canadian dollar coin glued on. That looks nicer and you´ll know at once, where the coin slot is at, @ the top!
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Eventually, I made some other models alike too, for instance, for UFO fans. I made a small UFO with a Dom on top of it standing on a cut off pyramid, their base. And that UFO, with the little cut off pyramid underneath it, sit inside such a pyramid, like this here. But that wasn´t it yet! That model, was actually a "2" savings bank! There was a coin slot on the one side of the pyramid, where those coins would fall into the UFO and little pyramid in and on the other side, @ the other coin slot, those coins would fall into the actual pyramid. They both had two separate trap door openings. I´ll go look for the picture, it´s also on film.


The tee spoons and coffe cups, already told you, how big it is, but here I am with my hand on.

....so, went looking for it.


And here is the top left one again! Below left, are the savings banks pyramids and at the top right and below right, those two are one and the same! That was also made, like the yellow pyramid, only with the apex area, shortened a bit and mounted/re-placed on top of it another smaller pyramid. After decorating it, the way it´s shown here, one couldn´t tell, whether the apex was one or a part of it. There, you could have placed into it, your crystal or what ever.


Here´s the one, from above, only the picture doesn´t look so good, as the way above ones!




That was a pretty cool pyramid and it was a bit larger, as the above ones. About 12 inches Base length, 30cm. In the next pics, I had to enlarge them quite a bit, so you can recognize something. There too, you´ll see the primitive UFO model inside the pyramid but, if I had continued on, making more of them UFO types ~ Pyramid models, they would have become more better looking. Well, it still isn´t too late for that, now is it?! Also, you will see that larger pyramid here, standing beside the Beeton savings bank pyramid, for size comparison!


The UFO Pyramid, is at the top left corner! And the bottom left pyramid Temple, is the same in design, as the one from Beeton, like above but has other dark coloration designs on it. Those colorations make it appear, as if it is a steep pyramid but it´s not. It´s like the other ones, you see on the top too!
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The UFO ~ $AVING$ BANK Pyramid! The UFO itself, is made of BBoards and covered with aluminum foil.




From the outside of the cover pyramid, you determine, how large, tall, wide and the shape, you want your drawer to have. The drawer sides, the easiest way to make them, is to have them straight, like a shoe carton/box OR, if you´d like to have it more fancy, then do them in an angle/slope, like I did it. The idea´s great! The work ... complicated.

After you´ve marked, measured and have drawn the shape of your drawer in, to make it easyer, puncture the corners with your pen, needle or a circle needle but watch your fingers.

On this side now, you connect the points with lines, to be cut out! You don´t need to dismantle the cover pyramid, the cover´s very flexible.




Also, cutting that peace out is not a problem, like that!


Eventually, when you´ve made your inside layer drawer cover/casing/shell and it should be a bit to larger to the hole, just cut the hole a bit larger instead of re-designing the whole drawer casing. Instead of the casing, you could save you some time by placing at the drawer floor level of the hole, only a peace of BBoard, for the actual drawer to move above but, if you´d remove the drawer from the cover pyramid, strangers could look so inside of it.

If you do it "WITH" a drawer casing, then, there won´t be anything to look inside at!




Now you need to figure out, the height of the drawer floor, for a drawer support stabilizer. This method is the same, like by the yellow Experimental Pyramid, where you´ve measured the 1/3 base section to the ground, for the stabilisers height. Here, I used a bit different method. Just take a peace of BBoard and draw in a few markings like I have done. If you´re aren't exact, do some corrections until you´ve got it. Afterwards, by calculating the height off it, please do also calculate about 1 millimeter of the bend part BBoard.


And here it is! The drawer support "Square"!


By placing another straight peace of BBoard or a ruler, you can see, if it´s not to high or low! Otherwise, you´re drawer´s going to encounter some problems!


....another view of it!


Measuring the drawer floor, but measure +1millimeter over each sides because the casing of the drawer, will be mounted/glued in later like that! The actual drawer will be a few millimeters narrower, so it´ll be able to push it inside and out of it again.
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And with the sides also, the same procedure!


I´ve got all the width written down except for the lengths of the bottom and top lids. The drawings show, the way the casing will be placed inside of it. The front flaps, will be bend outwards and the rear ones, inwards but over the drawer casings walls NOT inside to be glued otherwise, you´ll have the same thing, like by the pipes with the round end bottle stoppers.




Once again! Also, don´t forget to add the lengths! Eventual, what I will do and may be you should too, is to make yourself a ruler out of, for instance BBoard, where all the casings and drawers measurements are noted. So, as you make a copy off your Template drawer casing for example, draw the lines in lightly and re-examine them, before making, pressing those lines.

This ruler IS a good idea, if you´ll make a lot of those models, of pyramids that have these templates, like the casing. After a while, that template casings edges, cut out lines, WILL WEAR OUT! And now comes that ruler into the game!!!


That finished drawer will be a bit low and narrow but deep. You can eighter make a simple drawer, without a lid and a hole in the lid, to place in your crystals and vice verso and that will support this drawer additionally in sturdiness or make one, like a normal furniture drawer. It´s your choice.

Eighter way! I´ll be making one, with a rectangular hole in the lid, like in my crystal pyramid with the sarcophagus crystal container and two drawers. I refer to that model, as the "large, yellow MAYA´n step pyramid"! That one has such drawers, that I will make.
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And here is such a ruler. Eventually, you can make more nicer looking. And this is, what I mean with it. After you´ve drawn in lightly your markings lines, re-correct them with such a ruler just by starting right at the flaps. Add the flaps on it, to prevent such simple mistakes.


To figure out the angle/slope of the casing and drawer, just use your Pyramid Template, that should do the trick. So or so, you may have to do again corrections, on the two drawer parts like I did.

Eighter you line up your template Pyramid on it and draw the side lines or make a much more straighter line, by using your P-Template (Pyramid-Template), AND your ruler. Remove the P-Template and use your ruler the way it is now, to draw the line. That Pyramid works like a building blocks principle. No matter, how big the parts are, they all fit in like that drawer´s supposed to.




Looks kinda messy, but I did it again! But that doesn´t mean, that it´ll fit perfectly!




The drawer casing! The first mistake is at the rear part, the side wall of it is a bit too long. Below, a better view at it!


As you look at it like that, you can see, that all the lines at the rear are straight, so it must be the fault of the side wall. That part, cut it off in an angle to the others by visually determining it. At the right side, the same problem.


The front comes in like that.


Here´s the mistake one more time.


The drawer casing inside the pyramid! A view, like the Egyptians must have had, when they´ve build their pyramids. And once this projects done, you may also place additionally a smaller, square peace underneath the apex, with a crystal glued on it.

This isn´t going to give us much, since we´re not ~ well, may be not all of us so sensible to specific spiritual, metaphysical and or dimensional matters. Unless you can see the energy smoke rising up off the apex and by adding that crystal. It´s all up to you. I did it a few times, and has my life changed a bit? I don´t know, may be it has may be it hasn´t!
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The pyramid WITH the drawer casing.




You can see a shadow at the top, underneath the casing and inside and at the left side, also inside the drawer casing. That means, that the casing is a bit too small OR, the drawer hole is a bit too small. You got it! It´s the drawer hole, that is too small. So, we´ll just widen it a little bit. First, mark it somehow inside it, with a short marker by drawing blindly into the inside of it, against the wall and the drawer template casing, That´ll leave some marks.

Like by the sticking out pipes at the beginning, where I had to mark, to be cut off to length that pipe. Similar to that, the marker trick.


Here, the both shades are well visible. And on the right, it´s fine.


Inside, you can see the flaps, being inside. That, we don´t want to have, so they´ll be glued also externally onto the wall sides.
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At the rear of the casing drawer, ...it´s not perfectly touching the rear pyramid wall, but that´s OK! If necessary, you may glue in in between a narrow looking/cut triangle.


...a close-up! The rear should be so aligned, like that line on the pyramid cover goes.


This is a new made drawer casing, nice, clean and correct! Showing at the rear, how the flaps will be glued to the sides of the drawer casing walls.


The wavy lines at the back, show the flaps, where they´re at.


These markings are for the actual DRAWER! You can copy it with the drawer casing template but make afterwards the lines of about 1 - 1/2 to 2 millimeters narrower! The Drawer will be of 2 mm (Millimeters) smaller.


Here, the DRAWER inside the drawer casing.


Here right, I forgot to leave a flap. Provisionally, you may tape a cut out flap on it and after you make a new copy of that template, you won´t forget it again.






posted on Jun, 9 2008 @ 04:46 PM
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Now, we´re going to have to decide, what type of windows we´re going to place on the sides of the drawer? The windows don´t have to be but, since that drawer is kinda low in size, it´s kinda handy to have them. It´s up to you, whether you want them or not. We´ll see, how the finished product will look like.


And on top of it, we´ll cut in the hole because it´s a drawer to put things inside.


As you can see, I´ve got my kind of window shape design already.


I had to cut off some of the overlapping flap of the top lid, like shown here.


..and here it´s done.


At the top lid, you can also decide, how it´s design supposed to look. I made the front (left) more closer to the edge as is the rear (right)!


So far so good.


Making now a clean copy of it. The front is at the bottom, where the handle´s drawn. It looks more like the planet Saturn!




Although I´ve worked so precise, I still made a small mistake, that´ll you see in a moment.
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And here´s that ridiculous mistake! Somehow, I miss calculated it and forgot to add + 5 millimeters although the previous part, was well done. Here below, another view.


..that problem was fixed.


The drawer pulled out a little bit.


That flap, that you see there at the rear, will be glued externally, especially now, with the extra windows, they will be more visible as normally.


Here, the drawer´s sticking out a bit more. That drawer looks more like the shuttle craft from star trek the new version.
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Now, we´re going to concentrate onto the handle of the drawer cover. But that, what we´re about to do here, the measuring, cutting out the handle on the drawer trap and so on, that should rather be made like that so intensively, with the main drawer LID!

On the drawer trap of the DRAWER, you just need to figure out the size, that you need for the hole depending on your thinness of your fingers, the shape or form and to simply cut the holes in, into it.


Using such a simple made, calculated ruler to get the measurings done much quicker.


With the long end of the pen cap, the pen itself or with another tool of your choice, you will smoothen in the edges, or rounding them in. The same method, you will do later on the front part of the pyramid cover, right at the round holes for the bottles. That´ll be, so to speak, the last polish for it.


There isn´t much to see on it yet, but you will, as you scroll more down.
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Now that looks much better here, now doesn´t it?


On the other side, it looks like that. Afterwards, comes a cut out peace of thin (about 3mm) card board. But prior to that, you should also put some glue around the flaps. That will strengthen that BBoard there from getting riped.


A better view at it!


With the inverted pen or another tool, you now draw in by rubbing against the BBoards drawer surface, to make a groove for the toothpick. It gets easyer, when you place your part onto your, for example TV-Guide or a writing pad or some scrap BBoard sheets. That toothpick will be your extra BBoard support.

Also, prior to that, you may use a ruler and a pen, to draw in those grooves, by pressing hard that pen but not to hard! We don´t want to make a letter-box out of it.










I´ve noticed here, that after I´ve redone the drawer shell template, it suddenly fits to the pyramid wall perfectly.








Now, we´re going to concentrate at the Main drawer LID!




And that´s it, underneath it! To make an exact copy of the drawer handle, place the drawer lid onto the template, that´ll be the Main drawer lid as follows.
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The Main drawer Lid!


That is, how it´s about going to look like, when it´s completed.




And the sides, will be bend like that, so the drawer itself will look special too. You have to use your fingers for it, twisting it lightly in a bend motion as if you wanted to roll a very thin cigarette.


And afterwards, it´s going to look like that! Much more professional, doesn´t it?
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Additionally to that Main drawer lid, there will be another peace of "card board" be placed/glued behind it of about 0.03mm thickness.


Here it´s one more time mentioned, how to copy the drawers lid precisely
onto the Main Drawer LID!




Now, we´re going to need to do some plastic windows for the drawer windows. For that, I use projections plastic foil because it´s quite sturdy and very clear, but there are all kinds of clear ones, so you´ve got to watch it, not to get a foggy one.


Draw the outlines in, the way you´d like to have it. Eighter so, like I have it now or the way, the outline of the window goes plus 3 to 4mm additional plas spacing on it. Well, here you may use colored glue, the way the strong ones usually are but in other cases, would be rather a clear glue of a good advantage.
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But what you should insist of wearing, when you handle these plastic windows, is? You got it! Some soft gloves to prevent getting greasy smudges, fingerprints on it and scratches. The smudges and finger prints are hard to get off, once they´re on BBoards.


The gluing area is shown in yellow, or the way you want it.


And here now, some more information about the Main drawer Lid and the inlay card board peace.






The card boards thickness.




My fingers are on the drawer lid and underneath it, the Main drawer going to be Lid. Measure it so out, the spaces from the M.D.Lid, so the handle will be positioned nicely in the middle, the way it should be.


Since this is going to be your template for the future, when ever you draw a copy of it, make sure that the bend inwards flaps are flat, down otherwise, your new templates hole will end up much bigger as this one is.


By placing the card board onto the M.D.Lid, which the edges were bend up, like here shown. The effect, will be the same, that you see here.
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Even for the tooth pick, I made a groove in the card board (top)! And below, the completed M.D.Lid. It now needs only the top part, to be glued on it.


And that´s it! The top corners, I rounded them off, by cutting them off. You may do the same or leave it, it´s all up to you OR, better yet. Wait until that project is completed and then you´ll see for yourself, if that was a good idea or not and, If may be you could improve it a bit more.


In that groove, I´ll squeeze in later on some glue, to strengthen the curved sides.


An example for some Hieroglyphics, that you may draw on there, to hide the dented area, where the tooth picks behind it. I´ve even found an Internet address, it´s something like a name translator. You give in a name or sentence and the translator, translates it into Egyptian Hieroglyphics.

I´ve just found it!
Guardian's Egypt Hieroglyphic Name Translator
guardians.net...




Well, you may take a brake, if you´d like but, this cap is actually for that hole, so no dust would drift inside of it, as it stands there over time. Here my alternative suggestions and tips.




By placing it nicely in the middle, make a circle around it, for the glue. It would be also great, if that cap was of a black (Mat) colour! It should be of a MAT, not glossy black colour. Light would absorb it and therefore, if someone takes a picture of it, it won´t reflect the camera light. This here works pretty well, only with the disadvantage, that it´s blue shiny.


But here now, an idea which could help well. You could spray or paint it MAT black or do it as follows. I just came up with it!

:reading

First, take a peace of blank paper, the one that you use for your printer.
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Then, squeeze it into the cap and rotate your fingers on the paper, around and against the inside of the cap, so the paper becomes nicely smooth.


...like so!


...and so! Internally and against the outside of the cap.


Until you´ve got something like that! That goes very quickly! Within a minute or less.








After cutting the rest of paper off, mark on top of it with a marker, the rim of the cap, so you don´t color in more, as you need.




Now, open it up and fill in the black colour. If it´s not of a mat colour, it will reflect!
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Place it back inside (normally, you´d glue it in now and the sides),


That´s the finished coloured in cap.




Behind it, is now the cap! Looks OK doesn´t it? But, as you come closer, and take a picture of it, it will reflect as in the following photograph.
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Here now, the reflection!

But right after that failure, I got another inspiration, that I could try!


That one, reflects only very little! It actually swallows the light! What is it? It´s cloth!




Placed in it, like with the paper. The rest cut off and eventually glued in.


Now, I´m actually done with this project.

Tomorrow, I´m going to go shopping for the BBoard materials, to start making the actual parts for it. And after I´m done with copying them, I´ll be making a portfolio for those templates here.
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posted on Jun, 9 2008 @ 04:58 PM
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Any questions so far??? ;-))))

Yeah, I know! Oh please, don´t stop ;-))))

I started it on the 03.06.2008 and worked on it in the evening around 6 PM until I could watch the sun rise. By then, I was dead tired, let me tell you! I still have to do some minor things, like for instance for those, who´d like to place a quartz crystal into the apex region. For that, I´m going to build one more small Pyramid, with only the bottom 1/3 section, that´ll be the Base level.

On it in the middle, one traces their quartz crystal, cut into that base middle, like a star and press that crystal eventuell into it. If it sits comfortably, then they may glue it in.

I myself don´t know, what happens in that region of the Apex but some people CAN and DO see a kind of Energy smoke, leaving off that apex region.

So, till later and enjoy yourselves, making those Pyramids.


Oh, by the way! Did you know, that there´s a pyramidcam 24 hours a day on the air in Egypt? Even UFO´s have been already photographed/filmed with it.

@ pyramidcam.com/
pyramidcam.com...

[edit on 9-6-2008 by Wiseman]



posted on Jun, 10 2008 @ 06:57 PM
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A small Up-date!


These are the stoppers for the end part of the bottles. On black BBoards, it´s a little bid hard to see the lines.


The Pen marks, as stated above, should always be hidden on outside parts, like on the visible part of a pyramid.


That side is nice and clean, That side should be used as a viewing side.


Here are a few parts, that I´ve already pre-glued.


I´ve also bought some fake jewellery, to make the pyramid more attractive. Actually, I´ve intended to use the brooch, that´s lying there, for the Apex area, as decoration but I also kept on thinking about an alternative solution, for that area. May be, to place inside it a flat or pyramid base, with a crystal mounted and glued on/in it. More about that idea, in a moment. The with windows drawer, came out pretty well!


The left side of the pipe is the end part, that is, where the bottles end will bump into it, when you push it all the way inside.




At the right side, I´ve placed there a few different kinds of fabric, for you to choose from in case you would like to use it for your inside drawer. Your crystals will be thankful to you. I used a more majestic fabric colour, as a matter of fact, it´s a quit interesting one. When you have the table light illuminate that cloth from one direction and you turn the fabric, then the colour of it is suddenly different as before. I guess, it´s the way this fabric has been woven. You can turn it about four times, for four different solutions. In that photograph, the two top right fabrics, are of a more fluffy type as is the royal red one in my drawer. I guess, it´s all a matter of taste and comfort.




The brooch!


So cousy and comfortably, will rest and energize itself your jewellery and or crystals.


Around the windows, I drew in a black frame onto the drawer part to give the appearance, that the windows would have an actual window frame.


Measuring, at which height the inside crystal flat or only base pyramid should be placed into. I thought about it, whether I should put it in there or not and out of that thought came more thoughts......


.......and Visualizations. Actually, THIS simple photograph here, inspired my inspirational thoughts and further creations.... and there are so many more of them and possibilities, of making these that I could design things infinitively.
And here now, come my few good inspirational ideas! From a more simple and primitive drawing to a more complex solution.


First, I thought of eighter some kind of glitter design covering the whole apex area or this brooch or something similar to that!




Or something like that! I copied this off the TV screen, when the action film, "The Mummy" ran at the beginning. You could also print such a nice colour pic out of the Internet and then glue it onto your pyramid apex OR use instead, a plastic statue of a Pharaoh and glue it on it.




1a.) is of a pyramid "BASE" and a crystal in it! That idea is good, if you have a crystal, that isn´t flat bottomed and a only "flat" square base, would be also sufficient, to directly glue it onto that base.
1b.) here I started to get creative! Thinking of a locked in crystal for ever or making a drawer for that standing up crystal and then came the final thought! That I´m going to make one, like the one in post #195! Where the top apex is gone but is in addition being used another one to cover that top as the end stage apex. Additional to that, I thought of making a part of a step pyramid, with two levels on it, at the final level on top of it, stands upright and majestic "Your" favorite crystal. That part of the step pyramid, is a kind of a building block that you may place onto that Pyramid here, at any times and also, take it away again, if you´d like to place there something else. During that time, you will cover that step pyramid with another peace of pyramid cover, to keep the dust out.

In steps 2 and 2b, is how you may build that template.
In step 3, that is, when you´ve got a crystal, that is broken off at its bottom. After or before you´ve cut out that template, you mark the centre point of the template. Then, eighter make a raw drawing on it and when it´s done, like in a circular drawing, then draw in cutting lines, like a spider net. Then press draw in the outside lines AND cut in those inside lines. With the help of your fingers, puncture it through but not too much opened. That opening will be for your crystal. If that support is still not enough, then you may place and glue into it a stabilizer ring or stuff something else in it, to keep the crystal from falling over.

But, should you build yourself the following step "Base", then that above problem will be more, then just solved then here, you´ll have a lot of support for it. The Base dimensions, are depending again, of how far up you want to have it inside the apex. The lower you are the bigger it gets. A flat bottomed crystal, you may even glue on top the drawer cover, as long as it´s not too heavy for the drawer.


Like in Article #195. Article is supposed to be meaning, "POST"! The top of our associate Pyramid, will look like that in green and the part in yellow, will be the apex part, that´ll cover the pyramids top. It´ll also have on both sides windows. When properly decorated, no one will ever know, that this Pyramid isn´t whole! Coloured in a pinkish colour, that´ll be the step "BASA" Pyramid and on top of it, will be your crystal stuck to it.




Here, I´ve worked out some more fine details. I drew in a NORMAL STAIRS, like on page one of Reply #5 in this Thread. When you scroll down, you´ll get to the small and large, yellow MAYA´n step Pyramid. As you look at the large one, those stairs, that you see on it, will be the same stairs used in this "BASE" step pyramid. And then there´s one, called, "Stair to heaven ramp", those are identical only here, there will be a RAMP with stairs. Now that looks pretty cool too, like both of them shown here. Such a Ramp you´ll see on page one, Reply 7, Reply 10 at the two red Pyramids in a shelve over each other, it´s the one below it and one more picture below it and on page two, Reply 17 but need to scroll down, way down. It´s at the red Pyramid, the $avings Bank Pyramid that has another Pyramid Temple within it.






posted on Jun, 11 2008 @ 06:35 PM
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Now comes the big step, of removing the Apex Area. You decide, how much you´d like to remove.


I decided, to cut off that much!


And that is, how it looked afterwards. I copied that template and as you will do the same, make again a raw copy because I too, ran into one more small problem, namely ~ one of the bottle hole was a little bit off, so I cut out the most perfect one, after checking it with the black pipe tube, if it was OK, and then, traced that one over the wrong marked pipe hole. Re-check, if the height of the pipe´s are correctly off the ground level and then copy that template, nicely in the middle the way it´s supposed to be.

....quit a lot work, isn´t it? But as soon, as you´ve got that project done, with those templates, your future pyramid projects will be, "No more a Problem"! You may change the design for your future pyramids but for now, you just keep the template for the wine pyramid holes. Until you decide, to do a one or 5 bottle pyramid. You can now, I think ~ pretty much imagine, how much work that´ll implie?








And instead of, the way I used to do it, drawing in the lines with my pen, I now cut the bend lines slightly into the BBoards. That really does look much better. I had to think of this decision, as alternative because, having worked with the black BBoards, that wasn´t much a big problem. Those lines were as good, as invisible to me and to others. But on yellow or lighter coloured materials, that is again, another story.


And as soon, as you´ve got this pyramid standing, your project is as good as successfully completed. But I couldn´t again, leave it like that, now that I had another opportunity, in trying something new. New? New, not really, except for the Base ramp stairs, or stairs to heaven. I thought of something unique again. It´s only a smal change. You may continue that project like that, or finish it by the Apex. If you do decide, to stop your project right here, "No problem"! You´ll just have to wait, until I´ll start with the whole pyramid assembly, so you may assemble with me.




After you´ve got that pyramid cover part assembled, you may start by making the floor. Place your pyramid cover onto a right angle part of your BBoard, to assure a right angled pyramid and prior to drawing the outlines, add to the sides, about an inch of gluing flaps. At the front part of the floor, you´ll have to cut off a bit of the flaps, in a round manner if you´d like. That´s making some space for the pipe flaps and the pyramid holes.




Here, the pyramid´s sitting now on top the pyramid floor.


Next, you may choose a colour of material for your apex flat part. So eighter way, it´ll look nice, when you take off that upper crystal base pyramid. You may or may not do so, it´s all up to you.


Here´s a small example of the apex base, going to be covered with some nice precious red fabric.


Using the old Apex pyramid template for the going to be New Apex Pyramid template. Here you may decide, how far it should cover the upper pyramid part, but be carefull, not to overlap the drawer area or you´ll be in big trouble, if you´d spend a lot of time already, designing, cutting out and decorating that Apex Pyramid part.


Here comes our Pyramid template again in use. Calculate the depth of the overlapping New Apex Pyramid cover and where the first base will be at. (Sounds like football!) And then, where the window´s bottom line will be at.


After you´ve got that template drawn, you now need to draw in ~ into one of them the window design of your choice. Remember, the more detailed and complicated you make it, the more work cutting it out, you will have with.


Now comes the part of cutting the template only of the 1/2 window out but leaving the middle part untouched.




Now, you´ll fold it to the other side, to copy the previous side of it. This is a good idea in deed, but this doesn´t mean, that it´ll be a perfect copy of it. You will need some adjustments though. But this idea does help one along a lot!




In case you´ve made some other lines there previously, scribble it like so above over, to recognize, where your New line´s at. And then CUT the inside of the line out and not the outside line! To understand this, imagine your line is quit thick! Now you´re going to decide, where you´re going to cut, to get a specific result.


Now, you´ll take that template and copy it as precise as possible on the other sides.




....and more fun on the way!!! :-))


The cut out parts! To our Air Force guys! The cut out templates, don´t they look like the "Euro Fighter" from above??? Well, I do think so!


Now! Doesn´t this look like a "ONE PEACE PYRAMID"???


With the right decoration on and between the apex and pyramid itself, there will almost be no resemblance, of it being a lose part.


A small foretaste, of how the base´s floor will look soon.




That will be the first level of the first base, for the crystal base apex pyramid.




The finished first base!


The finished second and final crystal apex base.


Since I don´t have a appropriate crystal for it, I will only cut out an appropriate circle, for a future crystal for it. To cover it, I will design a small base plug, to cover that hole for now.

....WAU! That was again, a lot of work! But, we´ll be soon done, I hope! ;-)



posted on Jun, 12 2008 @ 06:49 PM
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Now, we´ll be working on the Ramps and the degree, they look good at and not to forget, the correctness of the stair width.





That looked at first pretty good but after a while, while imagining, that That crystal´s already positioned in it and some kind of little being walking up those steps, to the ultimate Power of powers,... no, those steps aren´t correct for it´s width and size.






So, Now we´ll need to do some size adjustments all together.

The Top one´s the previous one!


Of course, things get along slowly but they do get along. Here, we´ll need to widen the ramps top part and eventually, the ramp itself will be shortened, so it´ll end up to be steeper as before.




And it´s width has been fixed!


THAT low it is for now!


Still not perfect....


That´s what it looks like underneath!


...and on top!


.... again, some changes needed to be done. Here you can see it´s measurements.






With the stairs BBoard sticking out.




Now, That steepness is now more, then perfect - finally!








The three templates and the winner is, The Top one!


After seeing that pic., I realized that I needed to stabilize the Base Temple also somehow, just in case someone should decide to put a glass of water on it. And by the way, that way, That Apex Base Pyramid can also be used.


That ruler helps, to level the ramp template to the other already drawn template.


The finished drawn template! Here I thought already, whether to draw in also a base top and bottom or leave it, and think about another solution. Well, I´ve decided, to draw a top and bottom cover. At the top, there will be a hole for the crystal. Around that hole, will be a shaft inside of it, that will also stabilize the both bases.


By taking a look at this view now, ...amazed me because I tried so many times in the past, to copy the Kukulkan step Pyramid in Mexico or the University of the MAYA´s buildings. I couldn´t do it because I wanted to design it in one peace instead of designing and putting together all those little ones, to make it a complete one.




Here, I´ve already found a unique solution for it and the already existing top base of the bases....


...... just place it on top of it! Or alternatively, redesign that whole New top base unit, that I will probably do.




With the stairs in it, that looks pretty cool but you may make the wall, that holds the stairs in within, higher as I have!


The below laying pic, will that be the similar look of the base hole??? We´ll see! ;-)








Here I´ve turned the Template inside out, to resemble the Kukulkan Pyramid or the little plaza step pyramids, near the pyramid of the sun, I think it is.

My whole long search for that truth, to finally find out, how that pyramids build, of the great Maya culture has made me to work on such a great project, only to find THIS answer, that I´ve asked for so long ago. Now That, will be my next project, now that I´ve finally found the answer.




That here, was my ...after a few try out try´s prior to that model here, my final try for a MAYA´n University building model. It´s all about That challenge, to create something like that in only one peace!


And here´s that MAYA´n Plaza of the Sun or Moon Pyramid.



posted on Jun, 13 2008 @ 10:13 PM
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Here I´ve integrated the top and bottom floor, which didn´t quit work out well. And the reason for that was, that the ramp for the stairs needs to be folded! That circle on top of the floor or rather lid, ....started to remind me a lot of a "STARGATE"! May be that´s the reason, why the energy in the upper top floor can´t be measured or felt or what ever. May be because, right up there, there is a hidden "STARGATE" in it. (???)






How do you say this? ...making things through "Trial and error"!


So I had to redo it...


Curving in the bend lines...




That ring around the hole, was supposedly to get that actually bigger or where I was going to mount the gluing flaps underneath it.




At this diameter of hole, I find is pretty good. That makes the "STARGATE" appear more interesting. The right ramp, is a bit crooked. That´s due to cutting or scratching the bend lines in wrongly.


Here now the stair ramp angle! Should it come in flat like that or more steeper, to the "STARGATE" ram, like in the next pic?


I eventually decided, to make it like this one here! With the "STARGATE" symbols now drawn in, makes the hole appear more interesting, doesn´t it?


Now, that is still a rough copy of the final ramps.




Boy, I sure like that look of that "STARGATE", let me tell ya!


Here now, the separate parts of the two bases and the actual ramp, which use is no more current.


A good idea to get the shaft that wide, as it´s supposed to be, is by placing it unglued into the base hole. Marking the overlapping BBoard and then gluing it in that position.


That´s how the shaft´s going to look like, when the bases are stalked over each other.


After redrawing that template, it´s now about time, to finish That project of the bases now.


And that´s what came out of it! by using that pen, the way I´m showing it here, that helps padding or pressing down the inside flaps.






That diameter here, was quit big! I changed it later on to something narrower, like only 2cm in diameter or across!


While still doing that one here, I had to redraw the flaps.


Before I cut down the flaps, here one more time, the hovering upper base with the shaft in it.


After cutting it down.




The finally Finished Bases! ;-)


Looks pretty neat, doesn´t it? Yeah, I like it too a lot!!!




Taking a fly over!


In the middle of the shaft, it´s shining! That´s due to some smudged dried glue in it but I will place into it another cut out round peace with a holographic peace of silvery plastic into it.


At the above pyramid. Underneath it, the upper 1/3 base floor´s still missing. That´ll be next tomorrow.


After gluing the pyramid cover together, what comes now is, puncturing the apex area with a peace of wire. That´ll be for easyer picking up the pyramid cover without touching the pyramid cover itself. That prevents smudges onto the plastic windows and or damage on decorated parts, like with glitter.


Making a nice knot into it and later on, underneath the apex, I glued in a nice peace of square into it. It looks better that way.


The plastic windows! For that, I use projection plastic because it´s very clear sturdy.


Not to forget, to work at all times with soft gloves, when you do something with plastic windows or are working around that pyramid cover. By making the plas templates, eighter use the first template of your pyramid cover and then cutting a bit off, from the sides, so around 1-2mm or making yourself an extra template, to fit the exact size of your window template.


Afterwords, comes next the decoration with Glitter. These Glitter glues from UHU, I use them because the nossels are quite thin and you can work quit precisely with the amount of glue, that you actually need. The Glitter came later on. To choose the right colour and thickness, is too quit important.


The finished Pyramid cover with Glitter and plastic windows.








The inside of the Pyramid cover. Additionally, what you may do, so the inside looks more professionally done, is by gluing also in there, template or wall covers, so the glue stripes won´t be seen.


The Pyramid cover hovering!


At the Main Pyramid!









And this evening, we´ll start making finally the Main Wine-Pyramid! It´s long overdue!



posted on Jun, 13 2008 @ 11:57 PM
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WOW you are a wiseman, thanks for sharing and great work. I was considering building a pyramid made of clear thin weather proofing plastic as you have shown for inside my house for one to meditate or relax.

I have an idea for a pyramid reactor and the material that I want to use for the pyramid was discovered by me quite by accident. The first ingredient I will use inside the pyramid is a certain type of liquid in geometric alignment. I have been successful using this material in aligned geometric rows with the liquid being contained within a specific housed geometric design pattern. I can not tell you the process I use at this time but the geometric designed and altered state or modified liquid actually changes shape and grows vertical spikes and at times at different angles defying gravity. I do not induce sound to change the shape of the liquid but do change the molecular structure of the liquid.

I will start with a pyramid the size being one foot square at the bottom or base and the height will be determined. There are 3 specific factors that have to be right for the experiment to work. Using a pyramid design I believe the altered state liquid will be amplified greatly. I will be able to watch or video the liquid grow in an altered state using fiber optics. This will determine if I get more volume out of the liquid then I put into the experiment which seems impossible or a redistribution of the same amount of liquid. Do not get excited it only will be a controlled test or experiment and has not been proven as of yet with a pyramid design. No I do not boil the liquid. Rik Riley



posted on Jun, 14 2008 @ 10:57 PM
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reply to post by rikriley
 


Hi Rik!

Thanks for liking my Pyramids!!!

That sounds like HI Tech, what you´re about to do! Growing crystals in liquid, If I´d understood you correctly, isn´t that already on the market? I saw things like that, in a powdery form in cereal boxes for kids but may be it´s not the same, that you´re talking about.

Yes! You should film it and then put it into youtube! May be let it run through time laps photography? Could be an interesting and fascinating experience!!!

Talk 2 U later!

Mark.



posted on Jun, 14 2008 @ 10:58 PM
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And here I am again! Am finally finished, making that Pyramid! Puh!

So! finally, it´s done!

Here now come the final steps of the Wine-Pyramid.


This is a small roll of holographic plastic paper, to fill into the STARGATE hole. Eventually, if you do decide, in making a STARGATE base, after you´ve rolled and glued the STARGATE hole, after that you should roll the holographic plastic and mounted inside of it not, when it´s still unglued and flat. Otherwise, you´ll get wrinkles in that plastic.


Another good idea for you to do is, before you place it inside the hole, to check out, which side of the holograph., paper should be up. You can check that, by shining some light from above into it or by using your camera, and make a photo with your flash.


This here looks much better, but I´m not very satisfied with it. But now you know and hope, that you´ll prevent that mistake in your STARGATE Base "Wine-Pyramid"!




Gluing in the top floor of the 1/3 top Pyramid section.


By placing the Pyramid up side down, right on it´s flat part, that is the best way, in gluing it tight. Afterwards, you tilt it on it´s wall sides, to press on the flaps. Also, check if on the other side´s everything OK, in place and so on.


The finished floor.


Now, you may use this floor, for eighter the crystal STARGATE base or without it but before you do, we have to still finish off the whole pyramid.






That crystal charging STARGATE part, cost me a lot of time to do but now, the work will flow to it´s finish very quickly unless, you´ll do some extra details in decorating to it like I did again. I´ve actually have overdone it and I don´t like it. A good idea is, Not to rush it! Not to rush that project so fast to it´s end, take your time with it and afterwards, you can still do some decors on it.


Drawing in lines with a ruler and a soaking permanent marker. Just block the pyramid in it´s back so it won´t slip away and you mark somethings you´re not supposed to.




That´s now the drawer shell, up side down. But before you glue it in, you may consider gluing underneath it some stabilizers, just in case you decide some day, to use the top part of the pyramid, for some glass water energization.


Two simple stripes will do well and some wonders. Before you glue the drawer shell in, put some droplets glue onto them also. That will stabilize the whole parts system of contacts in that pyramid and therefore, make everything more stable.


On the end side of the drawer shell, place some glue there too and don´t forget, onto the drawer shell stabilizers too.


Now it´s happily glued in!


From another perspective. While your adjusting it, pressing onto the drawer shell flaps, concentrate more on the front part of the drawer, the rear one, you can still press it on later or during that time. But the most important area, is the front part. Make sure, that it´s nicely behind the walls of the pyramid and that it´s level to the floor.


Eventually, you may flatten the sharp edges like that, with a pen. While doing that, press the pen against the edge and around it, as if you´d wanted to smoothen a creamy cake´s surface ;-)


And now, we´re ready to do the next parts, which are the holes for the drawer handle.


Still checking, if the drawer slides nicely in and out without any problems.


This looks like a problem but it´s not. The drawer is nicely flush with it´s wall. Unfortunately, that drawer didn´t turn up that quit perfect as I´d imagined but, since we´re about to cover that part here in a moment, no one´s gonna ever know, only you guys about That Pyramid of mine.


Seen from above, see!? What I´d tell ya? It´s nice and flush with the walls surface.


Now comes the drawer lid over it. A nice cover up! But as you can see, some light areas of the drawer. Now, that we´re going to eliminate in a moment and I´ll be showing you, how that´s done.


The side of the drawer lid, if it should stretch over, before gluing it. Just cut some of it off and readjust the bend part of it.


The drawer part! Fill in the parts, that were visible with a thick waterproof black marker. Why waterproof? Just in case, to prevent smudges and if some water should get on it, to prevent running away colorful droplets. That would make you go up the wall, after so much work behind you, like I just had.


The inside of the rear part of the drawer lid, just in case, you should do the same too.


After holding it again against the drawer, the reflections are gone. Now you may do some other adjustments and or decors.


This time, use a thin marker, where the ink won´t flow or spread in the BBoard, like the marker did. At least mine did, may be it wasn´t a permanent. The permanent markers are quit expensive.


That´s starting to look more and more professional.


And now we´ll do some decoration! The symbols are Egyptian and made by myself and I!


The left side! ...and the


... right!


There are two priests holding their palms towards the emitting Energy off the Pyramid. The RA eyes aren´t really eyes rather, space crafts or UFOs with a ramp coming off it.








Starting off with the first bottle pipe but don´t forget to place/ glue a stabilizer onto the drawer shell floor. Place some droplets onto that, where the bottle pipe will come along and then on both ends of the pipe flaps. Check again, so that your pipe´s nice and straight, Up right and then perceive in pressing it carefully into place. Make sure it´s nicely around the edge of the pipe´s Pyramid cover hole and then, you may to add some glue for the rear end of the bottle pipe´s flaps in case it´s a fast drying glue that you use, like I did.












The final bottle stabilizer. Make sure that it´s sides facing upwards are nice and level with the Pyramids side floors. Just place a ruler there, to see the difference like in the following pictures.






And then gluing the final floor into it. I hope that you´ve placed some glue onto the stabilizer bottle flaps too, so every part within that Pyramid will work together, glued into symbiotic. That up side down position of that Pyramid, looks like a head of a robot! Two eyes and a rectangular mouth!


So, now we´re done!










The inside part of the Pyramid drawer part, I colored it in black. Looks somehow much better then before in yellow.


Here are now the parts!
















A lot of decoration is still missing at the lower 1/3 section of the Pyramid. Kinda looks so naked, without!




That´s a lump of broken off crystal, resting in that drawer.




....and here come now the last pictures, of that l o n g - p r o j e c t!!!




Without the STARGATE crystal charging base!


Without it again! :drunks

Thanks for watching and, that´s aaaaaaaaaaaaallll for noooooooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!



posted on Jun, 15 2008 @ 10:56 AM
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wiseman, these pyramids you have designed from photos as models are simply incredible. This has taken hours and hours of your time and I know you love doing this because this is a passion of yours.

Here is a suggestion apply for a grant of some kind and start a museum of your work. If possible and I know this would be difficult but obtain donations do take your work of art on the road across the U.S. or world for that matter. I am sure there are many museums that would show your work across the country.

Yes powdered crystals have been invented but I will give you one ingredient in my experiment and that is cool clear water that is it, and there is nothing added as far as chemicals other liquids or powder it is in fact amazing. This was a discovery purely by accident and many inventions have been by accident.
Rik Riley

[edit on 15-6-2008 by rikriley]



posted on Jun, 15 2008 @ 03:21 PM
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Hi Rik!

About that idea of yours, showing off my Pyramids in museums or across country sounds good but with my kind a luck, it´s not going to work, thanks but this doesn´t seam to be my destiny.

I always used to take the shorter way but so many people like to put thinks, gigantic rocks into my way, so I don´t take and or succeed in my quest. I guess that´s life! But may be it has to be like that, for all of us to learn from mistakes.

Anyways, about that liquid of yours. I don´t know what to do with it.? Could you make a photo of it and then, may be place it in here and explain to us what this is all about? I´m kinda lost.

About my Pyramids, I did some changes on it today, cause that Pyramid was kinda messy decorated, like a chaos so I changed some things on it. Now it looks much better and much lesser like an upset stomach.

OK! Here´s a tiny continuation...

A few more pictures of the few changes, that I´ve made on the pyramid. It looks now much better but still, at the bottom level, just where the bottle holes start at, there it still needs some fine tuning.




















That´s supposed to be a hovering STARGATE, but somehow it came out to look like a Donuts UFO looking eighter from above through it or from below upwards.



I was wondering today, about medicine! How would medicine react being keaped inside a pyramid? Would it become better or neutralize it´s medication effect?

[edit on 6/15/2008 by Wiseman]



posted on Jun, 15 2008 @ 07:55 PM
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Here I´ve found an interesting Link, about Pyramids and Medicine tested in Russia.
www.rods.ru...&Pyramid.html

"…The effect of the Pyramid on a field structure of any object, regardless of whether it is mineral, solution, organic substance or living creature, causes serious changes within this structure. Such structures seem to be put in order, to become more optimal and harmonic. The power and durability of the structures, ordered in such a way, increase greatly, if all their newly-gained components are in resonance with the Pyramid."



My experiments with pyramid model
by
Dr.Surekha Bhat,
Assistant Professor in Biochemistry,
Melaka Manipal Medical College,
Manipal 576104

INDIA

e-mail: surekha.bhat@manipal.edu
My experiments with pyramid model
Huge square based structures tapering from sandy vastness towards the infinite sky, with tremendous powers being preserved from a time beyond understanding-
www.gizapyramid.com...


This page contains information about the pyramids and their paranormal properties

Pyramid for health and healing
PYRAMID FOR HEALTH AND HEALING --

What is it used for:- A person meditating in a pyramid shows EEG patterns akin to that seen in people doing transcendental meditation. The experiences of meditating inside a Pyramid are remarkable. People get a feeling of relaxation, clairvoyance, clairaudience and tranquility. If they sleep in a pyramid, their sleep will be.... USA has shown that growth rate of plants increase by 15% when grown under pyramids. The beneficial effects of pyramids have led to the construction of pyramidal schools, recreation halls and warehouses. The Soviets in their pyramid Research Department of Leningrad University are well ahead and have even instruments to measure pyramid power and they are on the brink of some exciting discoveries like negative ion green therapy. The Pyramids help to increase crop yield by....

There are very many actions that negative ions have on our body:
(1) Reduce heart rate and B.P
(2) Increase vital capacity of lungs and the ciliary movement of the lining ciliary epithelium.
(3) Improve the functions of the hormones producing glands.
4) Improve mental functions, concentration, emotional equilibrium judgement, intelligence
5) Reverse the effects of the positive ions.
www.geocities.com...



posted on Jun, 16 2008 @ 09:03 PM
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:tongue: Hallo everyone! :sunny

I just finished redoing the black "REIKI" Storage Pyramid for you guys but this time, I did some changes to it. I made it look inside, (as usual), more Majestic and I hope that the outside deco Glitter will turn tomorrow just like it!

This, black again, "REIKI" Storage Pyramid is more sturdier as the predecessor, due to the heavier cardboard glued in inside but outside, it´s still the same black BBoard. The reason for the interior card board, is this, that when I place glue on the sides, for the Glitter deco, that after drying, the BBoard does change form a bit, by getting wavy.

The inside is also a nice red cloth, like in the STARGATE yellow Pyramid. I´ll upload the pictures tomorrow evening cause I still have to edit the images and so on. For those of you, who don´t think, that their Storage Pyramid should have those internal stabilizing card board walls, that´s fine with me too. At least now you´ll see, how the basic model´s done and put together.

About the STARGATE Pyramid that I´ve just made, I placed my quartz crystal into, onto the STARGATE hole. Well, it´s kinda too big but it looks good. I wounder, how the crystals would look like, if we could see the spectrum of light, that we can´t see?

May be, like the following pictures? ...before and after Pyramid Energy activating???














posted on Jun, 17 2008 @ 07:17 PM
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Do you wana know, what I like the most about my Pyramid Thread???

... it´s when I see, how many people have already visited my Thread! That´s my biggest reward for all my work. ;-))


Let´s continue, with the "REIKI" Storage Pyramid II!


Here are the tools, that we´ll be needing for it. In the picture, that´s the "REIKI" Storage Pyramid 1!


...and some Glitter, except the one in that Tic Tac case. There used to be Tic Tacs in it but as a case for Glitter, that´s pretty practical too.


Making the proper Template for it. Here, I used some orange Bristle Boards.


Here, I already drew the Pyramid cover template from the triangle template.

For all those of you, who´d like to keep it more simple, just leaf the parts with the stabilizer CARDBOARD Walls that I´m about to show you here. Those are for the reason, that after you apply tiny amounts of glue onto the Pyramid cover and right afterwards, (don´t wait until the glue has dried off), after you´ve just finished one Pyramid cover side, strew your favorite Glitter onto it. As soon as the glue has dried off, it will eventually bend the lose and thin BBoard, ~ make it wavy. That´s not going to look very good, but it´s all up to you. Here, with the CARDBOARD stabilizer walls, you´ll be working much longer on it, but will be much more happier afterwards, when you´re done with it!


You may use the triangular template for copying the inside CARDBOARD peaces. I took a thin one of about 0,5 mm in thickness, like for the STARGATE Drawer front lid. After you have the first one done, you should place it inside for another check. You will eventually make it about 1 cm shorter from the base upwards and eventually also, as you work along, will need to shorten the sides of them of about 0,5 mm.

A good idea that you should apply, when cutting off some of the bottom part of the triangular CARDBOARD stabilizers, to cut them off in an angle of about 45°! You may or may not do that but if you do, then it´s going to look much better, when it´s done as if this Pyramid was professionally done by someone special, like you! I´ll show you in a while, why? .... when the red cloth has been glued on it.


Here again, a gate has been drawn onto it, not to mistaken the sides as being the bottom.


Here I want to show you, that after you´ve placed the CARDBOARD stabilizer inside and have the Pyramid cover turned over like now, that at the bottom of the base, some of it will be a bit longer. Just mark it and cut it off.


After you´ve got all your CARDBOARD templates together, make an extra one for your TEMPLATE collection and start making the Actual REIKI STORAGE PYRAMID II!




Here you can already see, how weak the Reiki walls are and after you´ve placed some glue onto it, what´ll happen with it.




In this pic., it´s not showing exactly, what I tried to tell you about cutting the base edge off at about 45° angle but as you line up the CARDBOARD edge with the other base ends, you will hopefully understand what I mean. It´s like, imagine that the CARDBOARD is a 2x4in board. You now need to cut it off at such an angle, that the Pyramid cover will stand level on the floor.


Here again, another example cutting the edge off, at about an 45° angle.




The inside almost looks like a pine wood boards decoration.


Here now, with the template, we´ll need to cut out a triangle cloth/material for the inside. I chose red, it looks so Royal! Leave it longer at the bottom base, that you will cut off later, after it´s properly glued inside. Should you do it too exact, you may run in a few problems, while gluing it inside. For instance, it may be too short, now that is frustrating, let me tell ya but, should that happen to you, don´t worry too much about it. Just glue then another layer over it. I mean, a whole triangular layer. If you´ll peace it together, it´s not going to look very nice.


Like so! By flipping the Pyramid cover over, it´ll be very easy to cut the rest of the material off.




Here´s an alternative solution, how to place the cloth nice and precisely up to the apex and around it that I wanted to show ya! Use some kind of tweezers! Ask your girlfriend for hers or no wait, don´t ask her ;-) ....may be you should a s k her for them, to be on the safe side. (You didn´t get that from me!)






And there it is! Additionally, I place a wire again inside, for easyer lifting the Pyramid cover off as all the other one´s have, that are hiding something.


Here on the base´s sides, you can now see, how it looks, when it´s nicely cut off to about 45°!




And the finished Pyramid cover! Well, I know! Still needs some decoration that I will start working on later or tomorrow. I only wonder, what I´ll place there!


Or, you may buy some cheap jewellery, cut off the chain and glue that on instead. That chain, you may glue it for example, near the base floor in an interval of about every inch. So it´ll hang later on nice and loose down for instance OR; you´ll deco it with Glitter which I find more exciting.


Now, we´re going to make the Base tray or storage area for the Pyramid cover. It´s the same principal, like with the very first Yellow Water Experimental Pyramid. Only here, you´ll need a floor and not a top level floor. There are two easy variations, how you may cut them, choose one!


As here already stated, use the template to draw in the base tray.


After you´ve pre scotch taped it, you will get your surprise! It´s too big and that´s due to the CARDBOARD stabilizer walls. Eighter draw like it is here, the rest cut off line or hold it like that into your table lamp light and then mark in the cut off lines.




In the table lamp light, (bottom the bright part,) draw or mark in the lines.


After the lines been cut off and the rest adjusted, you´re now ready to move on to the next part. Namely, making the base tray or storage base base. But first, I need to place in the wire into the apex and then seal it off.


Here, it´s OK, if you make the gluing base flaps too wide!


Here I´ve found something excellent in a store! It´s about this green wire line covered with a rubbery protection to be used in the garden, to tie things down. It´s excellent because the wire is just strong enough for my gluing bottles, to be used as a plug and cleaning pipe against the drying glue inside the nozzle. And for the rubbery part, a bit of it cut off then the rest wire bend inwards, will make a good plug for the inside of the apex area and on the other side, sticks out the rest wire.




Here, what I mean with a nozzle cleaner.


A short example of it. I edited the colour red here and there a bit, cause it´s so irritating bright glimmering.


To pre make that hole, use a circle or something else.


After having the wire glued in underneath the apex area, I now seal it off with a small peace of a (clothed in) square peace. Leave standing over it about a millimeter, so when you glue it in, it kinda melts in with the other cloth surrounding it also called, fusion!




As good as invisible, now isn´t it?




Now, we can start off with the actual base tray or storage.


At first glue in the one side wall flap and then the rest of the floor flaps.


Here too, we´ll need to make the CARDBOARD stabilizing walls.


Here´s another good example, that I actually tried to avoid showing, cause I cut off here accidentally a small portion of the upper part of the wall. But also, here´s the same story with the 45° angle cut offs!




That´s how it should look and don´t mix them up but if you do, well, well.


And since we´ve shortened off the base tray, these CARDBOARD stabilizer walls will also need to get shortened off a bit. It´s only good for you! You just need to read this thread here and avoid those mistakes, that I made before you.




Just mark them, and cut them off if you´ve overseen it, like I have.


The end peaces corners, you may cut them too off at about 45° angle.


Now, we´ll need to get them all dressed up!


At first comes the base floor! That we´ll place and glue in first. The roller material cutting tool´s pretty practical!


Glue in one corner at a time, to avoid getting frustrated, when it won´t work or work too well with the gluing and messing around.


Use tweezers, that´ll help to calm down the frustration.


Folded like an envelope, but it works!




Here, I´m showing, how to glue it in shortly but leave it much longer as it´s shown here! No body´s gonna see the difference, when it´s done unless they tear the Pyramid apart.


Paste glue also on the top part of it.


You just need to glue the bottom part, shown here, which is actually the TOP part and the whole inside side. The rest material, just cut it off.




The finished parts and the left one comes in, the way I´m holding it here.


Looking from above, inside of it and that already covered CARDBOARD stabilizator, is up side down! Paste also enough glue inside the angled wall, so it´s nicelly covered.


The finished first peace! As you place in the last one, peace #4, it´ll be tight! Just crush that CARDBOARDS sides a bit and bend it also a bit, that´ll do the trick.


That´s the first part here! A bit too short on it´s sides but, like I say, we all learn from mistakes!


THE FINISHED REIKI PYRAMID! Underneath it? ....










posted on Jun, 17 2008 @ 08:14 PM
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These are AWESOME!! And you are truely gifted my friend!!



posted on Jun, 18 2008 @ 06:12 PM
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reply to post by Chaos Lord
 


Thank YOU chaos Lord!

I´m gifted and I´m burned out.


The following, you may or may not do! I´m doing that because the pyramid cover isn´t quite touching the bottom of the base and I don´t like it that way. I´d like to have it smooth down and additionally, the base´s floor isn´t thick enough. Well, that´s not that bad but you may strengthen it eighter way. And secondly, it´s a new look for a new style.


Here now, we´re looking at the base and underneath it, is a double layer CARDBOARD sheet. The one´s, which are usually double layered are the heavy duty moving boxes or other CARDBOARD Boxes. Should you not have any near by, then you may just as well use the thin boards, that you used to stabilize the Base walls with. You decide, how wide the frame´s supposed to be or step, the way you see it here. As you cut off the actual square peace, make sure you´ll cut it off in an angle, like the Pyramids sides are. That´s supposed to be the kick out of it.

Should you do have such an double layer CARDBOARD, then I´ll show you an interesting idea, how to shorten that level.


Here now the frame work. With a ruler, cut in along those lines until you hit the end of the corners and go only as deep, as you need or as that layer´s deep.


Now the following method, you probably would have guessed that but, if you got a bit more of an area to rode, then you use one of the following tools. You´re wife or mother´s going to get a heck of a kick out of that, when she sees that!


.... it´s the next pic!


That´s right folks! Use eighter a cake spoon or a batter scrubber or how you call that white plastic peace but, the cake spoon works much better! And if it has some teeth on it´s side, than you may saw yourself through it, like I did. I guess, a cheese slicer, that looks similar of this, might work just as well.


Before you glue the base in, you may do one of two things. Eighter, you only colour those steps in black, as you see it here or you place, glue sidings on and on the sides of them. I did the second variation, that looks much better afterwards, you´ll see.

As you precede in colouring it in like I did it here, don´t forget to also colour it in, on the inside frame of the frames themselves and their corners because, you will too see later on, that after I´ve placed the sidings on the top and side frames, that through a few slots, you will see some bright brown to white colour shining out of it. Since this is my first model, of this New type, I didn´t know that. had I known, you´d see nothing now. But that´s OK! Now you and I know, and we´ll prevent of making that mistake the next time or like in your case, the first time.


Now I´ve already glued it in and see here, you can see it shining through that slot already. But not for long, you know? I just thought about it, that when I start in decorating the base, I´ll just swoop over that slot with some glue and Glitter, and that´ll be that!


Untill here, I didn´t know yet, that I was going to put some kind of sidings on it, similar to those like houses have.


Here I´m testing, if everything's OK!


It seams to be OK! Eventually, when you´re done with it, you may need to colour the side in a bit black, so it´ll fuse nicely with the dark step.


Here I´m measuring the width of the top part of the step and eventually also the front part siding, like you see at the top and also, leave enough gluing flaps for underneath, bending it underneath the base.


Measuring the sides.




Here are such sidings pre-prepared.


And that´s how it´s going to look like.


To cut off the right angle, do as I show you here. Move it a bit off the actual position and draw in per visual check.


And on the top, just the same. Proceed straight ahead the line.


Here now, it´s cut off! Better yet too little like too much but, as long as you still got a long peace of it you may practice a bit on it. An over standing peace, just cut it off nicely with a pair of scissors. But what I would suggest here, is to cut the top part in, in an angle from the end corner of the siding to the corner of the base. By putting these peaces like that together, it´ll look in the end more professional, as it now will, by overlapping the end parts, as you will see soon.


Underneath it, you can see that little, 3 to 4 Millimeter bend. Now, I didn´t know, that I was going to glue underneath it (The whole bottom base), a peace of cosy black blanket, so I started over again, until I got this right here. I planned to glue a peace of square black BBoard underneath it, so it´s nicely concealed.


Here one more time, a better look at it, and how the overlapping peace is going to look like, when it´s done.




The finished work! Finally!


looks now more professional, as if originally bought at a store.




The underside of it!


I measured it here, but it´s not really necessary to do that, if you´ve got enough of it. I mean, Material/cloth etc. Put some glue underneath the base and place it onto the cloth.


Cut it carefully off!


Recheck it, so every else is enough glue and then, enjoy your making!






About the silvery wire! You may draw over it with a permanent black marker. That helps but not for a very long time. It´ll wipe or fade away, depending how often you´ll be using it. But, so what! That´s what it´s for, right?


In closed position. You may if you like, darken a bit of the base´s red cloth inside on it´s closest side to the outside of the side, if you get it. Got it? ;-) You know, so the red isn´t that much visible but don´t mark off too much.


The first and second Reiki Storage Pyramid.


Transferring items...


.... into the NEW Reiki Storage Pyramid.




Here you can clearly see, how the older Reiki Pyramids walls are ~ wavy, due to the back then glue on the soft and bendable Pyramid walls.

So! And that´ll be all for now, although I´ve got some more new projects rushing through my brain again. But for now it´s enough.

Until next time.

bye for now! ;-))



posted on Jun, 20 2008 @ 02:45 PM
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Here now I started to finish off the Reiki Pyramid II!

I´ve just found a good alternative name for it. Instead of that above title, I relabeled it over to

"KUNDALINI ~ REIKI" Pyramid II!


Here now, the decorations, that I´ve already started with. The second side, is the Chakra "Muladhara"! The Petals are red and then comes yellow and Gold. The symbol is in Gold but Gold and yellow, kinda merges with each other so it´s hard to recognize, what´s actually there. Therefore, I will change the coloration for it later, to red I guess.


Making of a Meditating person and showing the Chakras. The reason for those cross lines, is for the Petals so they´ll be drawn, pointing away from the centre.




In the background, is the Sahasrara chakra which I integrated behind the meditating woman. That what you see around her, are supposed to be the Petals.

To make such a perfect copy of something, like a meditating person or other symbols, is actually quite simple. For instance, to make something to fit perfectly the face of that Pyramid, you first measure the sides lengths of the Pyramid and base. Then you open a Picture Editing side on your computer with a ruler. You click onto a frame tool and first, make a frame of that size of Pyramid. Then you take the only Line tool. Find out the middle of the Pyramid and from the top middle of it, you draw down a straight line until you get to the one corner and then do the same with the other corner.

Then you copy a pic from somewhere and place it in front of that drawn Pyramid. You click onto the button, where this image goes a level behind those lines, you´ve just made. And then, you pull that pic, eighter to make it larger or smaller. Before you print it out, remove that Pyramid or store it, on Save! Make more of those sizes, that you find is just perfect for you and print them out in B/W and only the line works of them. Why waste Ink? Eighter way, you have to have a pic of it.

And the next "How to steps", I´ll show you in a moment.




And here, I´ve added the final touches of the Pyramid decorations, some Gold frame around the Pyramid´s sides.










Here now, the next chakra. Just below it, I´m holding a peace of chalk. I didn´t have any white but if you do have some, use it. Eighter way colour works well on black, unless you use black. Then you might just have a small problem :-o .


On the back of it, smudge it all over really nicely. The rest of powder on it, just blow it away. Then, take two peaces of scotch tape or whatever you have there and tape it a bit onto the top and on the side. It´s for, so it won´t slip away.


Now use your magic pen or if you´ve got no magic pen nearby, then just use a regular pen! That´ll be OK too! ;-) Try not to lean and touch that paper too often and follow the lines! When you´re done, you´ll get something like that!"



[img]http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii151/Creatorofpyramids/26387ef

[edit on 6/20/2008 by Wiseman]




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