Right on! AR-15 DIY kit on sale

I was in a local gun store, and found their incomplete AR-15 kits on sale. $199 each, including the drill jig. So I picked up every one they had left, and am planning to make a few different configurations. Yeah I have plenty of MSRs but I couldn’t resist the deal. At least I’ll have something to do indoors during the cold PA winters

Now if I can find an AR-10 kit….☺️

Have any of you folks ever built one? If not, now might be a good time. Not sure why these were discounted, but it could indicate a larger trend on so called “ghost guns” so anyone that wanted one, this may be the time to do it

*These are incredibly easy to build

a reply to: JBurns

the composite AR-15 80% lowers do have a slight flaw. The pin holes aren't wide enough. When you pop the rear pin to open the action and get at the BCG, the pin can pop out potentially losing the spring and detent. They seem find when assembled. The AR-10 lowers are available online. Best advice I can give, slow and steady, don't hurry.

a reply to: JBurns

link

Big fan.

Especially as a machinist.

However you don't need to be one and a drill press works fine.

a reply to: network dude

Thanks ND!!!

I wonder is there any way to add a detent to the rear takedown pin? It would be quite the shock to suddenly realize one is missing or has fallen out. Does this only seem to happen when field stripping or does it happen even when the pin is all the way in?

a reply to: JBurns

Does each one have it's own drill jig or did you buy one jig for all of them? I've done a couple for friends and don't use a jig. I have a Bridgeport with a digital readout that I'm pretty good with. If you are going to do a bunch, I'd suggest a jig with replaceable drill bushings.

a reply to: network dude

Going a few drill sizes smaller and using reamers or adjustable reamers are the right tool for the job for the pins.

They can vary by size a few tenths depending upon manufacturer.

a reply to: JIMC5499

The dealer included a plastic (polymer) jig with each one!

I was already marking a 2x4 to transfer the drill points on 😁

If you’d like, I can probably even digitize the drill points. Really no reason you couldn’t put a piece of paper over the right landmarks. As long as you have a fairly steady hand (or table top drill) should be no problem

Just don’t do it at the dining room or kitchen table….unless you have a back stop ☺️👍🏻

originally posted by: JinMI
a reply to: network dude

Going a few drill sizes smaller and using reamers or adjustable reamers are the right tool for the job for the pins.

They can vary by size a few tenths depending upon manufacturer.

Say, that is one heck of an idea 🍺 Going to call a few specialty hardware stores and see what I can come up with!

The information is greatly appreciated 👍🏻

originally posted by: JBurns
a reply to: network dude

Thanks ND!!!

I wonder is there any way to add a detent to the rear takedown pin? It would be quite the shock to suddenly realize one is missing or has fallen out. Does this only seem to happen when field stripping or does it happen even when the pin is all the way in?

In mine, it only happens when field stripping. Once the weapon is assembled, it's all good. For me, it's not a deal breaker, just an irritation. I use the spring and detent, I'm just really careful when I break it down now.

a reply to: JinMI

I'd mic the pins before drilling. If you have multiple pins and multiple lowers use a paint marker to color code them. The paint on the lower can be in a spot not visible after assembly. I would also mic my drills before use. I've noticed that tolerances are not what they used to be. When you drill use wax for lubricant instead of oil or cutting fluid. The wax will help reduce wobble in the bushings, resulting in tighter holes. With Winter coming on, if you are storing your parts in a garage or basement, bring them to where you plan on working. If you are working in a garage or basement and plan on heating it up for you to work in, start the heating 24 hours before you plan on working and let the parts and the tooling come to room temperature, especially if you are working with composites or aluminum.

www.walmart.com...

originally posted by: JinMI
a reply to: network dude

Going a few drill sizes smaller and using reamers or adjustable reamers are the right tool for the job for the pins.

They can vary by size a few tenths depending upon manufacturer.

I got mine from an online outfit. The pin holes were already there, I just had to mill out the trigger pocket and the FCG holes. The problem in mine were there in the design. I don't know if all of them have this issue, I just know mine do. It was a polymer lower but had a brass insert for the threads on the buffer tube part. I liked the brass part. I'd still prefer a machined lower given the options. But the 80% option does have a few perks that may make it useful down the line.

I recommend using anti-walk pins for the FCG. That eliminates the issue of the small pins not fitting perfectly.
link to site selling those anti-walk pins

Funny thing is, first time I had a polymer gun (Glock 23) I didn’t know what to think. It was light, but felt like plastic. I even called it my disposable vending machine handgun 😊

But they are great! Very strong and durable and they can’t rust. Since, I’ve had polymer AR lowers, polymer shotgun heat shields and a host of other-make handguns. I can’t get enough of it. Where I used to use only leather holsters, I have mostly switched to kydex. Even on my plate carrier, most “pouches” are now some form of polymer/kydex. Modern materials are incredible

I have been looking to get some custom cut Titanium plates to reduce weight. I have AR550 steel which is very heavy, and a composite poly material that is III+ protection but only lasts 5 years and is not generally multi hit capable

In the past I would have worried about the durability of polymer lowers, but everything I have seen has lead me to believe they will stand up to a level of punishment that would make any owner proud. ND and a few others have pointed out some quirks to this type of lower, and it was very interesting to see what kind of solutions ATSers have already come up with!

Not sure if any of you folks have ever messed around with RDIAS/RLL, but one of the things you have to do is “time” it. Basically depends on the orientation of your drop in auto sear/device compared to the rear hammer spur on the M16 FCG. The “timing” has to be right so the hammer isn’t falling before the BCG is in battery and creating a potentially explosive situation inched from your head

It is fascinating to watch the action of a select fire. Easy as rotating the disconnect out of the way leaving only the auto sear and trigger nose to “catch” the hammer*

But as far as I can tell, my polymer lowers are easier to “time” the RDIAS than the alloy lowers. I don’t know if It is just me, or the material or what. But if you have a RDIAS/RLL this might be something to consider. Sadly if you have a Registered Lower you can’t transfer the parts 😟


*RLL works by actuating the disconnect instead of a second sear point. RLL work with standard FCG just need a flat faced BCG (automatic bolt carrier group) to hit the RLL trip face

I LOVE my AR-10 I much prefer that caliber up here in the north where game tends to be much larger and angrier lol

Also though, its great for reaching out and touching your target at longer distances with great effectiveness

I would encourage anyone to go for it if they can get their hands on one

originally posted by: JIMC5499
a reply to: JBurns

Does each one have it's own drill jig or did you buy one jig for all of them? I've done a couple for friends and don't use a jig. I have a Bridgeport with a digital readout that I'm pretty good with. If you are going to do a bunch, I'd suggest a jig with replaceable drill bushings.

The jigs are also really nice to keep the lower secure and referenced in a vice.

Nice info you provided as well.

a reply to: JBurns

I'm not sure why you have a plate carrier, but, if you are going to replace steel or composite plates with Titanium, I'd be careful. Steel and composites are ductile to some extents, titanium isn't. It is VERY possible that a round hitting a Titanium plate could cause the plate to shatter and the spalling from that could be a bitch.

One other thing. If you are doing multiple lowers, I'd recommend using Cobalt drills. Composites can be very abrasive when drilled. I would NOT use carbide drills. They can catch in composites and break. Just a few things learned over the years.

originally posted by: JBurns

originally posted by: JinMI
a reply to: network dude

Going a few drill sizes smaller and using reamers or adjustable reamers are the right tool for the job for the pins.

They can vary by size a few tenths depending upon manufacturer.

Say, that is one heck of an idea 🍺 Going to call a few specialty hardware stores and see what I can come up with!

The information is greatly appreciated 👍🏻

Another trick. Don't go full depth with your drills. Just go through the jig into the material enough to clear the hole.

Flip and repeat.

Drills can easily walk out if square on a drill press, ask me how I know!

The anti walk pins and/or drop in trigger assemblies are a boon as well.

As another user suggested, go slow. Fit all your parts as you mill them.

a reply to: JBurns

The kits I've used came with springs and detents on both takedown pins.

Is it normal for them not to?

I've been meaning to get an 80% kit all year, but every time I come close I start getting questions about my router I don't have the answer to.
No drill press available, and I'm not in a position to have one just now.