posted on Mar, 24 2015 @ 11:06 AM
"Yes God is on the back line” said Joe the surfer reflectively to Truman, also a surfer, on asked is God on the backline, a special place in the
ocean exactly where the calm of the ocean begins and the breaking of the waves end.“ He's on the sand too.”
Joe continued to elaborate to Truman, what it was about the back line that makes it more special than almost anywhere in creation. He describes his
feelings as he says with a reflective look in his glazed blue eyes, ”Its just on the calm back line with the crashing, tumbling waves behind you,”
he begins his moment,“ and the entire azure body of the gigantic ocean in front of you, combined with the soothingness of the eternal ebb and sway
of the un-intruding swell under your board.
It tends to strike your heart hard as you begin to see what a perfect picture of Gods love the deep ocean paints.
Disturbingly deep and full of such amazing, abundant life that never a man could of ever dream of it.
Its both mortally dangerous and (talking about the ocean) hypnotically alluring! It's smooth calm but rough like a storm on Saturn! Its wave upon
wave upon wave of excitement, thrills and spills.
Some waves can hurt you badly but some waves can make you feel like a prince out of this world.
Its because the waves you catch (of the waves) that heal your soul far outweigh the waves you catch that torture your body keeps you going out there
day after day.
Even though you know it (the ocean) might kill you (sharks, etc.) But more than that, more than the little chance there is it might kill you, you know
also, you are aware it might save you. It might save you in a way nothing else can.
Once all of the peaceful resplendent magic passes instantaneously through your mind its then when you leave the restful & quiet cradle of back line
(and talking of your soul) rejuvenated and you have the longing of jumping on the nearest incoming wave if only to just give the unpredictable ocean a
chance to decide for you how it will be because no two rolling waves are ever the same, you have to do it again and again."
”That is stoked, really” Replied Truman to Joe's sermon “Let's go surf, man.”