Any tips or tricks to working with a chainsaw?

reply to post by Gazrok


Never, Ever, Ever work the chainsaw like a See-Saw.

ALWAYS keep the heel of the blade butted up against your work.

If you think there is a good chance that you will have an accident, Leave the area immediately.

Originally posted by ShadellacZumbrum
reply to post by Gazrok

 

Never, Ever, Ever work the chainsaw like a See-Saw.

ALWAYS keep the heel of the blade butted up against your work.

Agreed on the latter, but have to 'argue' the former.

It can be a great time saver, with little to no increase of danger nor additional safety risk by, as others have mentioned, sinking the 'dog teeth' into the base and pivoting the saw through your work ..... that's what the they're there for in the first place.

???

Every time I've used a chainsaw, the chain busts off, then my dad fixes it # chainsaws, use an ax like a real man,

Originally posted by Mugen
Every time I've used a chainsaw, the chain busts off, then my dad fixes it # chainsaws, use an ax like a real man,

then you're obviously putting entirely Too Much 'down pressure' on the saw/blade as it's trying to cut through .... ya can't 'force it' .... let the saw/blade do the work for ya.

like this:
[Stihl/Industry choice]


saws, motors, bars,chains.
they're about the best you'll find, all in all, but, I'd put a husquvarna up against any/either all the time.

Nice saws ... but i still think the swedes have a bit more going for them and up their sleeves ... coming...

simplicity seems to reign supreme for them. (????)

any way and no matter.

notice how once the tree is felled he lets the saw do the work, with only the needed down pressure/force needed to keep the blade/chain/saw travelling through the wood.

also:
it's a good example of how he uses the 'dog teeth' to anchor the saw and 'pivot' the blade/chain in a forward, downward direction.

As always ... keep your chain sharp, let the weight of the saw and the blade do the work -

keep the dogs away ( I've seen the results of dog chainsaw dentistry )

Practice scarfing if you are felling ( way away from structures or vehicles )

Keep onlookers at a safe distance.

Keep cheesy grins to a minimum !! lol

Gel gloves can help with vibrational flashbacks ...

Eta; hardwood country on my folks property = boxwood and ironbark mostly.
Stihl saws are hard to go past.

Chainsaws command a lot of respect. Pay attention at all times. Never become careless or over tiered during operation.

Tip 1) Wear the appropriate safety gear. This should include face shield, gloves, kevlar pants and steel toe boots.
2) Always clear a safe work space around you and under you before operation.
3) The use of the back cut is very important for avoiding pinching the blade.
4) Avoid cutting upward until you are very comfortable with the saw.
5) Understand how bad a chainsaw can f*#k you up if you diss it in any way.

In Canada, to work professionally with a saw you need to be certified. You would benefit greatly from a course. Chainsaws are responsible for some horrific accidents. Be safe.

many a lumberjack has lost there limbs to a chainsaw.

Don't hold it at the chain end when it's going

Originally posted by tsurfer2000h
reply to post by redoubt

 

Of course, trying to tell her this led to the 'Why don't you do it then?'

Why do they always say that?

They have figured it out...the easiest way to get you to do something is to start it themselves, especially if some danger is involved.

yes it really does work! i have a stack of limbs waiting to become fire wood, I was going to try it but the chain is loose and I don't know how to tighten it!

A woman in a neighboring town one summer was cutting down a big tree her husband and kids were watching...seems she stood in the wrong place the end of the tree kicked backwards as it fell and killed her.

Tip:
Dont cut of your arm leg or ....

reply to post by Gazrok


Ex-lumberjack.

Clean, sharpen and oil your chain often.

reply to post by Gazrok


Hey Gazrok, have not had the chance to read all the great many replies to your Thread,
so this may be redundant to previous advice:

1. Beware of metal, chain link fence, wire fencing, etc. when clearing brush and trees with a chainsaw.
A friend of mine had his saw kickback and slash his face. LOTS of stitches.
2. Safety First : Make sure to have good boots,gloves, eye protection(especially if its windy),ear protection,
let someone know what you are doing especially if you are off the beaten path,cell phone. It might be
worthwhile to invest in a pair of Kevlar Chaps. Make sure you know where people are near you at all times.
3.Survey your surroundings. When you get going with a Saw, it is easy to accumulate branches and brush
all around you. Make sure your footing area is clear so you won't fall, and just in case you have to run.
I have had trees twist and fall incorrectly and have also ran into Hornets nests in the middle of it all.
It helps to have someone pull away the the branches and brush away from your work area, especially
when working on large fallen trees.
4. Tension. This is something that is learned with experience. I have seen big fallen storm trees under so much
spring bow, that they have jumped 30 feet when cut. Your talking thousands of pounds of weight and
energy. This can be exceptionally dangerous. So, knowing how to examine the situation is critical.
Do a little research/video on proper cuts,undercuts, limb cuts, etc. this will help you from pinching the
Bar and Chain. Ask a Local friend or neighbor for some tips if you can.
5. Care of your Saw. A dull chain is worthless, and will cause you to put more stress on the engine and
yourself. Keep your chains sharp, have extra sets to swap out, in case you hit a rock,etc. and dull your chain.
Find out the size round file your chains require, and get a set for sharpening. 3/16" 5/16" etc.
Sharpening is an art, so you'll need some practice. Make Sure you always have Bar&Chain oil in the saw
and a bottle on hand.Keep your chain tension correct. I like mine just loose enough as so when I pull the chain
away from the bar , I could slip a nickle between the two. The housing/bar lockbolt(s) have a tendancy to
rattle off, so make sure they're tight.
6. Turn OFF the Saw when moving to a new area, over a stone wall, etc.

I am by not an "Axemen" Logger by trade, but I have been working with these machines for decades.
I have learned that Hurricane cleanup can be treacherous I.E. tension,metal,unsafe footings,etc.
Being where you are in particular, keep that in mind.

Used Properly, it is an excellent tool.

7. Have some fun. Best, Wildmanimal S&F

There's not much to add to the great advice already given... but I'll try.

I mix my gas oil mixture with a little less mix than recommended. It burns cleaner and avoids carbon build up on the plug.

Before I fell a tree, always clear away debris and trip hazards, and plan an escape route... just in case. Look at the tree top and those of surrounding trees... any loose limbs, dead wood, etc can kill you.

Always have an axe in case you do get a chain bar bound up in a tree.

Always have a couple of scrench tools with you... the screw driver/wrench that tightens the chain and can disassemble it also... this comes in extra handy when you do bind up the saw and can detach the saw from the bar.... mount another bar and chain and cut out the one you bound.

Always have a couple of really good strong lengthy ropes. A good rope and a little physics will allow you to do things you didn't know you could do.

Keep your old saws, even if they don't run. They are good for canibalizing parts off of and can save you a trip to town... and time.... and money.

I wear glasses and if you do, get the titanium frames with safety glasses. I was cutting a tree, had it down, and was sawing it up when I hit some wire fencing that had grown into the tree from wayback. Without the glasses, I would have lost my eye.

Learn the physics and mechanics of trees that have fallen... some times the pressure on a tree or limbs turn them into springs.... much like a catapult. One cut and a limb can break and spring back and literally take your head off. Once the tree is down, cut off the saw... stand back andhave a smoke or a swallow of water and look at the tree and limbs. Is it contorted or twisted. Any limbs hung or twisted back. How will you breakdown the tree?

Generally I start at the small limbs or "top" of the tree.... clearing debris as I go.... and use gravity. Again, be careful... as you cut limbs... the weight shifts and a tree can roll over.

Once the most of the limbs are off and cut... look at what is supporting the trunk.... if possible, I cut from the bottom up about halfway through the trunk. Then I cut at the support point and detach the trunk so is now on the ground.

Safety is the primary concern.... when in doubt... walk away and think about it.

Lastly, always try to cut with a buddy... if going solo... let someone know where and when you are.... have an approximate time to return... that way, if missing, someone will know you are in trouble.

Have a first aid kit handy too. I keep one in my truck all the time... rarely ever needed it, but even the best have a few bad days here and there.

Hope these tips help.

Originally posted by Sharingan
Step one: Watch Axmen
Step two: Email the History channel and bitch at them for putting such garbage on a once good channel.

Seriously though, it was interesting and insightful during the first season but then it went the way of jersey shore type crap.
Every other word was "beep" this and "beep" that.

edit on 12-8-2013 by Sharingan because: (no reason given)

The best post on this thread, agreed complete garbage.

reply to post by Gazrok



Midol might help with your vibration issue...

be carful when you use it on trees on the ground, a friend of mine did it with a broken tree and as soon as he was through the wood he hit a stone in the ground and the saw snapped back into his face... he has a nice big scar now

while I am very experienced with chain saws... I would advise the following .... keep a sharp chain..... secondly, let the saw do the work. We can try to force it to cut faster but it is often not efficient for it wears you out fast......

never work alone is a good rule of thumb but not always practical....

use caution..... like anything else your skill level depends on what you can do safley or better put ... less dangerous ....

oh, and never let someone stand across from the end of blade while cutting wood.... I once talked to a surgeon who had cut off his thumb while cutting firewood at hunting camp ... so accidents can happen to even the most talented hands ......

Caution is paramount with its use.

Even a non 'spinning' blade can cause severe damage.

I have a buddy who's dad dropped one(turned off) and fell about 5 feet down onto my buddy's wrist. Needless to say you could see bone and it left a helluva scar.

Originally posted by 12m8keall2c
Nicest saw I ever had the pleasure of using was my brother in law's Husquvarna 455 Rancher:
www.husqvarna.com...

It was a used blade but it still walked through 18"+ diameter trunks, limbs and branches With Ease.

90 degree sideways cut through a near 20" base took only a few minutes.

Good tip to remember:
Some times you just have to let the saw sit so the blade can cool down.

It doesn't have to be dull to throw out fine [near sawdust] cuttings. just being too hot will result in the same thing. a mere 3-5 minutes is often all it takes.

edit on 8/12/2013 by 12m8keall2c because: (no reason given)

I run that husqy saw and it rocks. I would highly recommend what a couple others suggested and get a couple more chains for it and also a good pair of leather gloves will help with the vibration. The chain that came stock on mine was complete junk. I cut about 3-5 cords a year of oak for our winter burn and its well worth the work IMHO.

Stack that wood away for a season since it seems green and burn it next year.

Silver

The key is to not let the saw bind and that depends where the pressure is!
If it's a branch that is floating up in the air then gravity will be pulling it down and
it's best to cut on top but if the middle is up in the air and the ends are touching the
ground then it's best to cut from the bottom! I realize cutting from the bottom can be
difficult since you need to cut with the top end of the saw but the saw will be less likely to bind!
If the logs are easily moved then it's best to set them up so the saw wont bind and that would be with
the end that is being cut off up in the air! Also try to cut where you will have the most leverage
and that would be closest to the sprocket on the engine side but only when cutting on the top!
When cutting on the bottom it's safest to cut on the top part of the saw on the far side sprocket!
if the saw binds you may need to reposition the wood to take pressure off of the blade!
Also use thick gloves and long pants and shirt and be sure to use safety glasses!
One other thing be sure to where good boots and always be mindful of where you
are cutting in relation to your body! These saws will cut very quickly through flesh
and make it very difficult to reattach an appendage because of the amount of material being
shredded! Be careful and always have the least amount of distraction!
GOODLUCK!