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What's the best way of breaking up a section non-reinforced concrete driveway?

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posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 06:12 PM
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Hey all,
Just a question what would be the easiest/best way of breaking up a section of non-reinforced concrete driveway?
The reason i'm asking is because i've got a section of my driveway outside the driveway gates that's cracked and sunken and i considered going to a hardware/home improvement store and purchasing a sledge hammer now i'm thinking about going to my local equipment hire place and hiring either an electric/air/petrol powered jackhammer or a demolition saw with a diamond blade.
So ATS users what would be the best way of breaking up the cracked and sunken section of driveway?




posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 06:20 PM
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reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 





thinking about going to my local equipment hire place and hiring either an electric/air/petrol powered jackhammer


I am pretty sure that Bosch makes an electric one that I have seen for rent. That'll do it.

Happy smashing.




posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 06:25 PM
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reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 


It depends.
If its only a few inches thick and there's not too much of it then a hammer is the easiest method. Just bash away about 6 inches from the edges.

If you have quite a lot and its more than about 6 inches thick then get a good jack hammer, the heavier the better.

It all really depends on the mix. I've seen 4 inch concrete that seemed like it was hard as steel, and I've seen it a foot thick and crumbling.

However, by far the easiest way is to pay some local teenagers to do it for you



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 06:26 PM
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Depending on how big a section it is that you are replacing dictates what system to use. If it is a small area, a saw to cut a straight line, and a sledge and big prybar with a fulcrum may break it up. using lifting pressure with the prybar, someone can hit the cement a few feet away and it will crack most times. If there is mesh in it, you may be swearing. A jackhammer works but it is still hard work and kind of expensive if it is a small area. I've cut out concrete about four or five times.

If the area is larger than six feet times ten feet, a jackhammer is probably the best bet. Try the big bar, fulcrum, and sledge first though. You don't have to lift it much with the bar, the pressure difference and shock do the work.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 07:22 PM
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Explosives! Blow that crete up man!

Drill in on a 2 feet grid and lay 1/2 sticks of gelignite. connect them all together. If you use a cascade method you can just about get all the concrete to end up in a semi neat pile.

You need to blow it all at once and get rid of any evidence before the detonation.

When the Police arrive act befuddled and say, "It was a terrorist attack , we should have left Syria alone."

You need to give the Police a description of the Terrorists, just describe the President and the Secretary of war. I would normally have three laughing faces here but the new emoticons are too confusing for me.

P



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 07:41 PM
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I did this 4 years ago do to root damage.

Rent a backhoe or mini-excavator. takes only a few minutes to become dangerous..lol

have people stand back and go to town.


Quick and easy... no sore back.. and rent a drive off dumpster.. within a day, you will not only have fun but also have it done right.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 08:18 PM
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HanzHenry
I did this 4 years ago do to root damage.

Rent a backhoe or mini-excavator. takes only a few minutes to become dangerous..lol

have people stand back and go to town.


Quick and easy... no sore back.. and rent a drive off dumpster.. within a day, you will not only have fun but also have it done right.


The size of section of driveay that's broken and sunk is not big enough to warrant a backhoe or mini-excavator,i'm thinking a demolition saw with a diamond blade will do just nicely and i might hire a concrete mixer aswell to mix the new concrete.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 08:22 PM
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pheonix358
Explosives! Blow that crete up man!

Drill in on a 2 feet grid and lay 1/2 sticks of gelignite. connect them all together. If you use a cascade method you can just about get all the concrete to end up in a semi neat pile.

You need to blow it all at once and get rid of any evidence before the detonation.

When the Police arrive act befuddled and say, "It was a terrorist attack , we should have left Syria alone."

You need to give the Police a description of the Terrorists, just describe the President and the Secretary of war. I would normally have three laughing faces here but the new emoticons are too confusing for me.

P

LOl you can't get gelignite or any kind of explosives without a completing a course on explosives and getting a procurment/useage license and even then only farmers needing to blow stumps out apply.
The average person in nz can only purchase fireworks on the 2nd-5th November and even then you can't purchase the really big ones you need a fireworks display permit to purchase and use the really big ones.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 08:25 PM
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What's easier to handle an electric/air/petrol jackhammer or a demolition saw with a diamond blade? Cause i'm thinking it'd be harder to handle a jackhammer because there's alot of vibration with them.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 08:56 PM
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reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 


Any of those methods will do nicely, the saw would be easiest to handle, but is very loud, and extremely dusty. Wear a mask and ear plugs.

Also keep in mind, concrete sinks/breaks/becomes uneven due to the subbase being inadequate. Dig it out, and start from scratch.



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 09:38 PM
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reply to post by caterpillage
 

Well the cracks came when a big truck delivering some furniture i purchased drove over it in order to get through the open gateway and the once in 70 year drought we had during xmas 2012 worsened the cracks and the lack of moisture in the ground didn't help either.
Yeah i think i'll go with the demolition saw with a diamond blade much easier than a sledge hammer or a jackhammer/breaker and dust produced by the saw is why demolition saws have a water hose attachment point on them plus it keeps the diamond blade cooled.




edit on 10-9-2013 by Conspiracyskeptic because: Adding details
edit on 10-9-2013 by Conspiracyskeptic because: Adding to post



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 10:25 PM
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reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 


the first and most vital question - what is the area of the driveway to be replaced ? [ m / yards square ]

second - what is the depth [ a good estimatate can be made by drilling a series of holes with a drill long enough to penetrate the concrete slab ]

just my opinion [ I have no professional qualifications in the contstruction / groundwork industry ]

but I would both saw and jack hammer the damage out

only saw 4 cuts [ the perimeter of the slab you are replacing ] - and bevel them inwards ie : _\

that will make a stronger joint between the new pour and existing slab

once you have the hole - level it off with ballast [ not the scrap concrete you just removed ] but quality limestone aggregate

and COMPACT IT - using a whacker plate - loose ballast is just going to settle - and ypur new pour will sag then crack

the ballast has to be solid - then just pour your new slab - float it off and finish as desired

then let it cure as long as is reasonably possible - concrete continutes to cure [ gain strength for 6 months post pour ] - it may appear cured after 24 hours - but if possible leave it for a full week before putting vehicle loads on it

last tip - don't let your pour dry out [ you say you are having a severe drought - so I assume its very hot / dry ]

concrete has to cure - a chemical reaction - NOT dry [ evaporation of water ]

dry concrete becomes brittle and will pulverise in use

either cover the pour / use a wetter mix to finish and or damp it after finishing [ a fine rose heat on a hose pipe ]

that's about it - good luck



posted on Sep, 10 2013 @ 11:23 PM
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ignorant_ape
reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 


the first and most vital question - what is the area of the driveway to be replaced ? [ m / yards square ]

second - what is the depth [ a good estimatate can be made by drilling a series of holes with a drill long enough to penetrate the concrete slab ]

just my opinion [ I have no professional qualifications in the contstruction / groundwork industry ]

but I would both saw and jack hammer the damage out

only saw 4 cuts [ the perimeter of the slab you are replacing ] - and bevel them inwards ie : _\

that will make a stronger joint between the new pour and existing slab

once you have the hole - level it off with ballast [ not the scrap concrete you just removed ] but quality limestone aggregate

and COMPACT IT - using a whacker plate - loose ballast is just going to settle - and ypur new pour will sag then crack

the ballast has to be solid - then just pour your new slab - float it off and finish as desired

then let it cure as long as is reasonably possible - concrete continutes to cure [ gain strength for 6 months post pour ] - it may appear cured after 24 hours - but if possible leave it for a full week before putting vehicle loads on it

last tip - don't let your pour dry out [ you say you are having a severe drought - so I assume its very hot / dry ]

concrete has to cure - a chemical reaction - NOT dry [ evaporation of water ]

dry concrete becomes brittle and will pulverise in use

either cover the pour / use a wetter mix to finish and or damp it after finishing [ a fine rose heat on a hose pipe ]

that's about it - good luck

Yeah the drought nz had during xmas 2012 was a 1 in 70 year one and it made the cracking much worse but thanks for tips and advice.
Much appreciated.



posted on Sep, 11 2013 @ 10:15 AM
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pheonix358
Explosives! Blow that crete up man!

Drill in on a 2 feet grid and lay 1/2 sticks of gelignite. connect them all together. If you use a cascade method you can just about get all the concrete to end up in a semi neat pile.

You need to blow it all at once and get rid of any evidence before the detonation.

When the Police arrive act befuddled and say, "It was a terrorist attack , we should have left Syria alone."

You need to give the Police a description of the Terrorists, just describe the President and the Secretary of war. I would normally have three laughing faces here but the new emoticons are too confusing for me.

P


Your description reminds me of something I once saw on the TV, It involved two large towers. Yep, just the same...OMG!!!...IT WAS YOU


scurries of to dial 0800-I'm-Telling-On-You



posted on Sep, 11 2013 @ 09:35 PM
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pour petrol/gas on it and leave to soften we did this with sleeping police men /speed bumps and it works



posted on Sep, 11 2013 @ 10:36 PM
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reply to post by VoidHawk
 


ROFL

Blame it on a misspent childhood when kids making things go bang was put down to being a high achiever. God it was fun though! Now, mixing mentos and coke makes you a terrorist.

P



posted on Sep, 12 2013 @ 11:33 AM
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reply to post by Conspiracyskeptic
 


Just say there are Islamic terrorists in your drive way and a drone strike will do the job for ya.


You can simply post here in your thread and the good ol NSA will do what they do best, and f s up.


Any real suggestions?

I suggest as you have and a sledge hammer, get a bit of a work out while your at it,





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