AT -205 Re-Seal additive, it really works.

Hello all. My wife has a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. About a month ago we noticed it was useing oil. quickly found out the oil cooler seal"s were bad. Purchased the new seals and it was a easy fix. But still oil leaking in driveway. I then found it was the rear main oil seal leaking. It being a 4x4 not as easy fix. Tranmission has to come out, then re-place the main seal which shoould take all of five minutes. Except getting the transmission out is out of my ability. Looking at about $1,200 to $1,800 to replace the seal at automotive shop.

I researched this and found a product called AT-205 re-seal. It reconditions the seals. I was not thinking it would work. I found I could not buy this product in my local auto parts stores, any of them. I ended up buying on Amazon. I did everything as the instructions said. Went from a puddle the size of a cereal bowl, to a drop. One single drop. I used a re-sealer when I was young on an old truck I owned. Did not work. This stuff really works, For how long I dont know, instructions said one time use. You can use this stuff in any oil based system, everything except brake systems.

So i thought others should know. An $1,800 repair VS a $17.50 fix. When we are able to afford the real reapir we will, but for now this is keeping us moving, and the wife happy.

reply to post by openyourmind1262


Good to hear. My 93 Suzuki Swift GTi leaks oil, and chews through it. That might be good for my car....but I also need to find some sort of fuel additive that re-seals the cylinder compression rings so I can get my third cylinder back to a better compression range.

Damn,gotta try some of this out on an old dirtbike i have lying,means stripping the engine then splitting the cases removal of gearbox yaddyyadda just to replace this seal!!!

I'm a technician. All these additives do is swell and soften seals. They may help for a short while, but plan on fixing that rear main.

Ive been doing auto repairs for 20 years and advise against this not to make the money but it can be harmful. One the seals usually leak from wear or foreign material in contact from dirty oil. Reconditioning the seal will expand it which makes it much weaker so when it goes next time it will be twice as bad of a leak. Secondly some of these additives have sealants which seal in the presence of oxygen so it seals the area leaking but it also builds up in the oiling system restricting oil flow which in turn ruins the bearings. Good luck just keep an eye out for any crazy noises or low oil pressure if you have a gauge.

reply to post by ConspiraCity

Beat me to it bro lol

reply to post by ScottishBiker420


On that dirtbike case you can usually sand then use an epoxy on the outside of the case sealing the leak as pressures are low ive done it lots since the case is no fun to split. I hate removing the flywheel lol..

Woot a fellow gear head on ats!

so much easier that way, huh!
just pour it in and it works!

as an 'old timer', at least when it comes to auto repairs, i would have recomended using some brake fluid to soften and swell the seals.
works wonders... i've got 500,000 + miles on my work truck to prove it.

i have used it in motors, auto and manual transmissions, and power steering systems.
it always works with no problems, unless a seal is actually cut or broken.
just use 'a small amount'.

for the above poster who wanted to try a product for sealing the rings (old timers call it 'motor honey'), i've haven't found any that really work.

my best recomendation for high milage engines is to use 'straight weight' motor oil, Castrol Heavy-Duty 30weight (or 40 if you can find it) is by far the best!

when you've got over 100,000 miles, you should start using that, as the clearances in the motor have loosed up.
wintertime in cold climates you can go a little thinner on the weight, but 5- 30w type is really only good for new cars.

glad you gave the sealer a try, your mech may not so enthused, however ($$)

The techs are correct the stuff simply has an additive that swells the seals and therefore slows or prevents the leaks. Best advice I can give about going that route or not what are your plans with the vehicle?. If you are going to keep it for a very long time, use the sealer. If you are going to sell the vehicle soon, use the sealer.

I once had an old Chevy that developed a very bad power steering leak. I accidently poured brake fluid into the reservoir and the leak stopped for the several more years I kept the car.

I later learned that was an old trick by savvy mechanics. "Going by the book" is fine but in every human endeavor, there are the "work arounds" that some element of value. They may not be necessary the best way to proceed, but neither are they to be dismissed because the experts can't use them. As times become tougher and tougher on the wallet, we are going to have to start learning tricks of the trade to save money on about everything. Adding a "Stop Leak" kind of sealer is way up there on the allowable scale even by many seasoned mechanics.

reply to post by Aliensun


I agree. I know the contradictions about useing the product. But at $17 bucks VS $1,800. The wallet made the decision. We are planning on keeping the car, wife loves the damn Pathfinders it's her second. The first she drove for right at 297 thousand miles. Her oldest son wrecked it beyond repair. I can do the work to fix it, I just dont have the lift nor a facility to do. I do have a plan on purchasing two old used car lot ramps, the ones they pull the cars on to show them off.

I plan on putting them in permanet, for oil changes and the like, I may wait till then and do this repair myself. That's a lie, I KNOW i will do the repair myself. I tried resealers before with zero luck. This product comes from France I beleive, only writng on bottle besides English was French. I would not recommend this for a permanet solution to a leaky seal, but it works and thought others should know. Thanks for posting.