chembuster or cloudbuster??

Apparently there is adifference between the 2 - but I can't pick what it is.

Here's a couple of sites that tell you how to make them - perhaps someone can be good enough to point out the significant differences??

Cloudbuster construction details

and

how to make Chembusters (CB's)

There are a few small differences in the txt - they use "cloud"- or "chem"-buster of course, but they look pretty much the same to me - the photos are the same, the template is the same, right down to sentence structure and where to get stuff. Eg the buckets -

From "Cloudbuster":

BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. I leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.

and from chembuster:

BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished Chembuster.

Perhaps it is something important in the "working parts" - the crystals, copper pipes and metal shavings??

From Chembusters:

COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.

CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.

METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a ½” screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!

and from cloudbusters:

COPPER PIPES: Six standard 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need
to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.

CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, and one of these devices is glued in turn inside each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. I taped around the cap where it joined the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting.

METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine)
aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a window screen & slightly bigger ones are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!

Is there some subtle difference there that I've missed that sets them apart??

the "citrine" in the Chembuster is optional so it can't be that. So is it the type "Type M" copper pipe specified for it but not the cloudbuster that makes the difference??

Edit: Copper pipe types M and L are commonly used for home plumbing - type M has a thinner wall and is more often used inside, but type L is also used inside in areas wher the water is likely to be more acidic - see Copper pipe types -

“Type L pipe will last 300 years and Type M only 250.”

Turns out they both have the same safety warning too:

From cloudbuster construction details:

WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.

And from how to build a chembuster:

WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently

So now I am even more perplexed, since apparently one of het changes is supposed to be that the chembuster is "safer", as claimed by the chembuster site:

By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “Chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator.