need help with gardening, page 1
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ATS Members have flagged this thread 3 times


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 01:51 PM by superman2012
reply to post by lbndhr



Setup a sprinkler system and place a rain gauge to determine the amount of inches you have achieved, from then you should be able to put it on a timer.


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 02:00 PM by radpetey
reply to post by lbndhr



Take a sample to your local agricultural extension office.....if they do not test it there, they will tell you where to go to have it tested.

That will tell you exactly what you need to add, right down to the gram.

If you will not do that, u2u me, and I will tell you how to amend the soil from 1000 miles away
edit on 29-1-2012 by radpetey because: I have always sucked at grammer!




reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 02:00 PM by ns9504
reply to post by lbndhr



Have you tested the soil? Contact your local extension office. They can help you do soil tests and give you information about your local agriculture, answer questions about watering, pests, etc.

This link will help you find one:
Cooperative Extension System Offices

I call mine all the time. They have been great with area-specific information. Hope that helps.


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 02:18 PM by calnorak
I recommend reading Rodales composting guide.

You can definitely fix the soil to be more useful.

There was a guy in the book that added the right components and the next growing season the soil was very fertile.

You might be able to find it at the library, this is where I found it and have ordered it ( right before viewing this post as a matter of fact).

www.amazon.com...=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327867906&sr=8-1-spell

I post it from amazon as its the cheapest I could find new (was searching for it used, but I guess its too good to be sold in a thrift store or any of the garage sales I've been to).

It starts out with the history and science behind it, I recommend reading it from begging to end, the theory in it is quite good.

You will want to start sooner rather than later as the bacteria for composting needs a solid 55 degrees F to start for a warm compost (which can take as little as 2 weeks to complete). Having the theory down, prior to the end of frost (well not sure about Texas) will help out immensely.


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 02:46 PM by purplemer
reply to post by lbndhr



Make compost and buy some good top soil in to cover the stuff if you are not happy with it...


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 03:02 PM by FissionSurplus
The other posters have given you excellent advice. I bought a bug-out place on the Texas / New Mexico state line in the panhandle. It has been super-dry out here (only 4 inches of rain all last year). I grew a garden without ever having done it before, so I know less than you. Because we are out on the open prairie, I found that I couldn't grow strawberries or beefsteak tomatoes, because the rabbits and birds would eat the fruit overnight. I tried to fence them off but then the moles would come and dig from underneath and eat the roots, killing the plants. My corn became infested with these nasty little worms and the whole crop was destroyed. I had some luck with green peppers and green beans, but I planted them in a coffee can with the top and bottom cut out, so it would hold more water. The coffee can extended maybe 4 inches above the ground. It also helped when the plant was smaller because nearly every day here it is windy, sometimes exceedingly so.

What I found that grew exceptionally well were jalepeno peppers (no critters or bugs will touch them), broccoli, and onions. I also have a drainage problem and a drought problem. I would water the plants with a drip irrigation line, and as I would pull weeds, I would notice how deep down the moisture went. If it was nice and moist down at least 5 inches, it was good and I could stop watering until it evaporated. If the ground was dry an inch or two down, the plants cannot grow deep roots and they would be stunted. Part of my garden was a drain problem, and part was sandy and the water leeched away in a hurry.

I don't want to use pesticides but the traditional "green" methods of keeping the bugs out didn't work (like spraying the plants with soapy water...the bugs acted like it was bath time and kept on destroying my plants). Everything is so dried up, they converged on my garden like it was an oasis. I may have to go with pesticides this year although I will use them as sparingly as possible because I eat what I grow.

Good luck on your garden, and I'm gonna need luck on mine, because it appears that we will be in a drought pattern until at least 2020 (according to NOAA).


reply posted on 29-1-2012 @ 07:26 PM by radpetey
reply to post by lbndhr



One other recommendation.......... use red cedar oil on your garden.

It is organic, and is a great contact insecticide for most garden pests with an exoskeleton.



reply posted on 30-1-2012 @ 08:31 AM by lbndhr
reply to post by antar



im definitely going with containers this year, I found a leechline runs about 1 1/2 ft under the garden, I will move the garden to the other acre, (I bought the side acre this past summer). There is no septic on this land, seems the most reasonable answer. ty


reply posted on 1-2-2012 @ 03:43 PM by lbndhr
reply to post by lbndhr



I tested the soil brought the results to our local lawn and garden shop, the soil is overused, the prior owners never fertilized it and used it for 6 years. I bought new top soil, fertilizer and sand, im going with buckets and containers while I fix the soil. I'm also going to start a compose area. Ty all you gave great advice
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