vehicle EMP resistance , page 1

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Topic started on 8-12-2011 @ 12:39 PM by ignorant_ape

just been reading another thread on the impact of an EMP attack - and as ususal - the claims come out of :

" my old < insert make / model > will be fine and run because it has points , not electronic ignition "

well - just my opinion - but i think you are all in for a big shock

from the top

the capacitor [ a small cylinder attacjed to the side of the distributer by a screw ] - the is going to be victim number one - do learn how vital this inocuous component is - try removing it - then starting the vehicle

the alternator diode pack [ looks like this is next ] - is victim # 2 it controls the output from your alternator - without it , you cannot recharge the battery from engine power

the ignition coil [ basically a stepp up transformer , 12v to 12ooo~ 20ooo ] is also going to fail - again as a bet - remove yours from the vehicle - trake it into the house and connesct the pos / neg terminals to mains current , then refit and attempt to start the car

next - the starter motor , damage to this component will depend on peak kva of any EMP pulse - but fusion of the brushes and solenoid should not come as a suprise

battery - again a variable failure - dependant on EMP energy , cell condition etc - but do not expect a fitted battery to survive

now having said that - all the items i list - can be viewed as consumables in the life of a vehicle so carrying spares [ if properly stored ] would allow such a vehicle to be returned to operational status in 30 min ~ 3 hours

but dont expect a vehicle sat outside your house to survive - because it is not going to happen - you dont have an EMP immune vehicle - you have a vehicle that can be repaired in a couple of hours

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 01:02 PM by getreadyalready

reply to post by ignorant_ape

I've given this topic some thought, and here is my plan.

A pre-electronic ignition engine. You need something that still has points and a carbeurator.

Also, a large cut-off switch to the battery. When it is parked, you cut the power to the system, and touch a little jumper to the fender well to bleed any latent charge from the system and discharge any capacitors.

Then, the EMP won't be able to generate or amplify enough power to be dangerous. Throw a tarp over it, go drive it at least once or twice per month, and you have a great survival vehicle for post EMP.

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 01:11 PM by AuntB

I am not a good source for this, my husband is more knowledgeable. The distributor cap has something to do with the ability for your vehicle to survive an EMP. I know the vehicles with electric ignition will not work but I swear our mechanic said something about a distributor.

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 01:11 PM by Shadowalker

yep. condenser and coil will burn up. If you want to faraday a set of spare parts then you can start wrenching.

Here is the sticking point. If you haven't been under the hood there was a big craze in 1974 to retrofit with aftermarket HEI distributors. So even if you have a 1965 name your model, it may have been 'upgraded'

Only older Pre 74 breaker point vehicles stored at P3 or lower in an underground parking garage will still fire up and run.

Do we all understand where? You have to look in that special place..... your rigs and second hand parts are there.

The second thing to remember is this. This car is fried dead by an EMP generator. Watch the clip. What parts are still good and should be harvested?

www.youtube.com...

edit on 8-12-2011 by Shadowalker because: (no reason given)

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 02:04 PM by gotrox

Actually, it is a very common misconception that EVERY vehicle with electronics will be irreparably toasted by an emp.
Many of the electronics are shielded by the metal skin around them, and insulated from grounding by rubber tires.

Way too many variables to list.

A set of ignition and electronic parts for an older auto without a computer controlled engine system, stored in an old, unused micro-wave oven, (Faraday cage) would be cheap insurance.

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 05:40 PM by ScottishBiker420

What about my motorcycle,it has ignition points and condensor and usesacoil from a 1960's mini cooper,doesnt have an alternator,but a magneto and runs a self exciting coil so the battery could be removed(done this when i used it as a scrambler before chopping it into a bobber),and has a kickstart lever and no starter motor,thereare no diodes in the system and th condensor can easily be yanked when the bike is parked overnight as it is on a bullet terminal.Als as a sidenote,the damn taliban ferry arms and troops aross deserts on these little buggers,mines ran with a red bull can wrapped around the oldbakelite coil when it started cracking haha

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 05:51 PM by ludshed

It's become a regular thing on ats to see so many posts without any relevant info. If you like hearing your own voice so much, why not tell us something useful? Maybe because you can't? If you could, surely you'd say "get a X model in X year or prior because of this ignition system or that injection system," but no, your not that intelligent or half the mechanic we need to you to be to teach us simpletons something useful.

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 08:46 PM by Shadowalker

reply to post by ludshed

I did tell you. You can see in the vid what happens to a post 74 car.

Are you saying you still don't know where to get an undamaged car if that happens?

Where to get undamaged parts?

What is not understood exactly?

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 08:48 PM by getreadyalready

Originally posted by ScottishBiker420
What about my motorcycle,it has ignition points and condensor and usesacoil from a 1960's mini cooper,doesnt have an alternator,but a magneto and runs a self exciting coil so the battery could be removed(done this when i used it as a scrambler before chopping it into a bobber),and has a kickstart lever and no starter motor,thereare no diodes in the system and th condensor can easily be yanked when the bike is parked overnight as it is on a bullet terminal.Als as a sidenote,the damn taliban ferry arms and troops aross deserts on these little buggers,mines ran with a red bull can wrapped around the oldbakelite coil when it started cracking haha

Now that is a BIKE!!

Yep, you are EMP proof, and one look at a guy on that bike ought to ward off zombies and marauders as well.

reply posted on 8-12-2011 @ 11:38 PM by WatchRider

Originally posted by ludshed
It's become a regular thing on ats to see so many posts without any relevant info. If you like hearing your own voice so much, why not tell us something useful? Maybe because you can't? If you could, surely you'd say "get a X model in X year or prior because of this ignition system or that injection system," but no, your not that intelligent or half the mechanic we need to you to be to teach us simpletons something useful.

Diesel engines, old ones and old-build style vehicles like Landrover Defenders.

I can take my battery leads off the thing while it's running and it doesn't miss a beat!

How many modern cars can do that? Not many.

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 05:30 AM by g146541

reply to post by WatchRider

I don't quite understand what you are saying.
I have removed battery leads form alot of cars both modern and old, Japanese and American.
All of them run without missing a beat either.
Hint: this is one way of testing your alternator while it is in the car..

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:31 PM by PrimalRed

Kind of does not matter. Say something big happens and there is some sort of EMP bomb and now you are the only one with a car.
The roads are now clogged with cars that are broken down
Gas pumps will not work
Where are you going to go

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:33 PM by getreadyalready

reply to post by PrimalRed

All the more reason for the bike mentioned above, or the old Land Rover, or big Diesel 4x4 truck.

Although, I do wonder how long one would be able to keep their truck their own. If you got anywhere near any crowd, you'd likely be overrun.

Best to stay incognito if you ask me.

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:36 PM by PrimalRed

reply to post by getreadyalready

I just don't get the need to just start traveling aimlessly like the road warrior once things get messy.

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:39 PM by getreadyalready

reply to post by PrimalRed

Me neither.

I'll be hunkered down for a bare minimum of 2 weeks. After that, I might make short jaunts to scout or collect supplies. I probably wouldn't risk breaking out the vehicle for at least 1 month.

I can survive in my home with family and friends for 3 to 12 months depending on how many make it there with me. No need to go out taking unnecessary risks.

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:49 PM by ignorant_ape

reply to post by Shadowalker

hey thanks for that - though the results did suprise me

i would have expected BOTH the starter motor and electric window actuators to have suffered the same fate - ie both been rendered in operative - or both surviving

but on reflection - i would really have expected the starter motor to be more robust - as it has a far higher working current

reply posted on 9-12-2011 @ 12:51 PM by ignorant_ape

reply to post by gotrox

hi - i dont expect EMP to destroy all electronics - i do expect it to destroy all non-hardened semi conductor devices

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