The five things you need to know about buying a used bow., page 1
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Topic started on 2-8-2011 @ 08:47 AM by DaddyBare
For a more detailed 5 point inspection method go read this ... other wise... here is my handy dandy layman's guide...

In this economy none us can afford to waste money needlessly. While we all want the latest and greatest gear often you can save 40%, 50% maybe as much as 80% if you purchase a used rather than new bow. Now the best thing about archery is those hard-core bow hunters always have to have the latest and greatest gear! That’s wonderful news for those of us born “Without” a silver spoon in our mouths because that means the market is flooded with good high quality used bows. The real trick is how to pick one that will last… and not one that will fall apart before you get it home!

There are a good many places to look for used bow’s.. Pro shops, Used sporting goods stores, Pawn brokers.
But you never want to buy a used bow on line… ever… The reason is simple… before you hand over your hard won cash you’re going to want to perform a thorough inspection of said bow… that is something you cannot do via the internet. Yeah, yeah you might get a better deal on e-bay than at your local pro shop but what will that bow cost you in the end if things aren’t quite right? No you need to hold it, feel it, stroke and caress it before you write that check.

Now while your foundling the bow that caught your eye I’m going to teach you what to look for. Just so you know this is going to sound a little like making love to a woman. Treat it as such because if you get the right bow then she will be your baby! So let’s began…

1. “Strings and cables”… Check for fraying, nicks or cuts. A worn string will look fuzzy. How you check for nicks is to simply too lightly pinch that string, with thumb and fore finger the gently run those fingers up and down the entire length. If it’s not right your touch will tell you and you want to do a good job here as replacement strings and cable can cost $100 or more!

2. “Check her bottom”… Often careless bow hunters abuse their bows when afield. And the place that gets the most abuse is the bottom part. Using their bows as a walking stick or dropping them from the tree stands… all of that can damage a bow…This is especially important for compound bows, so check the lower edge for deep scratches, inspect the cams for burs and nicks, stress marks. A bad cam will need to be replaced for the bow to function properly! That turns in to seriously big bucks fast!

3. Now we turn our attention to her “Limbs.” For a wood recurve use your eyes and closely look at the varnish. Is it crackled, flaking or chipped? If the answer is yes put it back on the rack and choose another. If the bow you like is made of fiberglass do the limbs have a chalky look? If so that dog (bow) won’t hunt… put it back on the rack and choose another. If however you bow passes it’s time to move on to the next step and that requires a cotton ball or Q-tip. With a feather light touch run that cotton ball over every inch of her limbs. Your eyes and touch might miss a crack or split but there’s no fooling that cotton ball… if it snags anywhere (A puff of fuzz clinging to the limb) that tells you something is amiss…put that bow back on the rack and choose another. But if it passes all these, you can move on to the next step.

4. “Draw length and weight”… Make several test pulls. How does it feel…Smooth or Clunky… are you straining… where does the bow break… will it be easy for you to hold a knocked arrow for a few minutes or are you arms shaking??? Use your ears too… is the bow making any funny sounds as you draw… having the draw adjusted for you typically cost $80 to $120 so make sure your happy with it.

5. This last one deals with Accessories… Often a used bow will come with accessories already mounted and that can save you a big wad of cash. If they are properly installed and quality gear… the first real test is to simply shake the bow… does it rattle??? Sights, rests and stabilizers are nice to have… if they work as advertised inspect those carefully.

If everything is good and your sure this is the one you want the only thing left is to negotiate a price and that my friend I will leave to you to figure out.
youtu.be...


Before I leave I need to ask a favor from the members here at ATS…

This week I’m going to be very busy… I have three doctors’ appointments this week, one of them so they do the camera thing up my rear…sucks getting old… and I’m not looking forward to that… So I won’t have as much time as I’d like to answer questions…

As to the favor itself, if there is a skilled archer who would be kind enough to watch this thread and answer novice question for me…. I would be most beholden to you…

Thanks Daddybare.
edit on 2-8-2011 by DaddyBare because: (no reason given)



reply posted on 2-8-2011 @ 08:17 PM by Aliensdoexist
reply to post by DaddyBare



Thanks for the info I just purchased a very lightly used Mission Craze the other day complete with Cobra 4 pin sights, Whisker biscuit rest and some dildo looking thing hanging off the end lol. I'm just getting into archery and heard that is one of the better bows for someone that lacks experience since draw weight can be adjusted from 15# to 70# and 19"- 30" draw. I guess its currently set up for 65# draw don't know where the pull length is set at yet since its still in transit to my home. It doesn't come with any arrows and I'm really confused with the whole arrow thing i thought you could by them pre-made but it seems like most just come bare shafts that you have to cut to length, knocks and flights are pre installed just seems like a hassle for me since i know very little about archery and how to make an arrow and what grain tip and shaft to use.

I guess its kinda the same as a novice rifleman that just picked up a gun and to shoot that gun you have to first do your own reloads with no prior experience. I think it would just be best for me and my lack of knowledge in Archery to just take it to my local Gander Mountain and have them check it over, and set my pull weight and draw length and see if they can help me select the right arrow and components needed. Hate to spend the extra money but i'd much rather be safe than sorry and be left with a club that looks like a compound bow lol. Thanks for the inspection tips, i'll run through that checklist once the man in the brown truck delivers it.


reply posted on 3-8-2011 @ 09:07 AM by DaddyBare

How to measure arrow length


Lets start with the basics
Anatomy of an Arrow


The foundation of every arrow is the SHAFT, a long hollow tube usually made of aluminum or carbon/graphite
composite materials. The rear of the arrow is fitted with a small piece of molded plastic called a NOCK, which
allows the arrow to physically attach to the bow's string. At the front of the arrow is a small aluminum (sometimes
plastic) sleeve called an INSERT. The insert gets glued into the end of the shaft and provides a threaded hole in
which to screw in the arrow's TIP. A tip doesn't necessarily have to be a practice point (as pictured here). A
standard insert allows you to screw-in and use of a variety of tips in the same arrow (broadheads, judo-points,
blunt-tips, field points, fishing tips, etc.). The last component is the arrow's FLETCHING. The arrow's fletching is
usually done with colorful parabolic shaped pieces of soft plastic (vanes) or feathers. In most cases, the three
fletches are glued onto the shaft in an equally spaced circular pattern, with two fletches one color and the the third
fletch a different color (the cock-fletch). The fletching is very important, as it provides steering and stabilization for
the arrow during flight.


Correct arrow length is measured from the bottom of the nock grove to the end
of the arrow shaft (see diagram). Note: Arrow point is NOT included in the
correct arrow length measurement.



Another way of putting it: Method of Arrow Measurement: The standard AMO
method of measuring an arrow is to find the distance between the groove of the nock (where
the string rests in the nock) to the end of the arrow, not including the insert or tip


Okay so now for the how to mesure part...
Determining Correct Arrow Length:
As a general guide for all target and field archers (including bows
equipped with overdraws), the Correct Arrow Length can be
determined by the following method


1. Draw your bow using an extra long arrow to your normal full draw.

2. Have someone mark the arrow shaft at least one inch directly in front of
the spot where the arrow contacts the most forward position of the arrow
rest. This is the correct arrow length for you.

Note: Beginners may want to add 1" or 2" to the correct arrow length to
ensure that the arrow will not be too short once their shooting technique
improves, or their technique changes.
Tips

If you don't have a second person to help you measure:

1. You can use your existing arrow or borrow one if you don't have.

2. Tape a clicker on your bow so that the arrow will pass through it at full
draw (just like if you are shooting with a clicker).

3. Measure the length of the arrow tip and distance between the clicker and
the most forward position of the arrow rest.

4. Your correct arrow length can then be calculated using this formula:

* Arrow Length = Measured Distance - Point Length + 1"

* Arrow length in this instance is calculated from the grove of the nock to the
end of the point.
edit on 3-8-2011 by DaddyBare because: (no reason given)


reply posted on 3-8-2011 @ 04:13 PM by Silcone Synapse
reply to post by DaddyBare


We need you here DB,
-there are not enough folks with respect for,and knowledge of the old ways on ATS-you are one of the few.
I'm sending positive thoughts to you,and hope things will get easier for you.

Your bow/bushcraft tips are worth their weight in gold IMO.
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