That should fix it.
Im Ready To Set My Old Buick On Fire ..Help !, page 1
reply posted on 17-7-2011 @ 07:59 PM by dreamfox1
Originally posted by granpabobby
This car has me pulling out my hair ! The problem is not constant..Hard to test problems that way .
The problem is the motor runs fine for about 20 miles then starts acting up .
In this no run condition there is no spark and no fuel in the run position of the switch .
Pump runs for 3 seconds w/ key in run and has 35 P.S.I. fuel pressure
What I have done so far :
New fuel filter
new pump relay...pump was replaced 6 mo. ago.
New ignition control module
New crankshaft sensor
New ECM .
Original problem comes back .! Wait 10 minutes and it restarts .
The only thing left to try is the ignition switch itself..Poor or burned contacts in it may be .
The car is a 1989 Buick Regal w/ 3.1 L V6 ..My only transportation .
The thing is ..im a heavy equipment mechanic Not a car computer analist .
Any car tecks to help an old man out..@ 62 I dont much like walking !
Your problem here is the Main Relay if this model has one and i bet it does.
Its not the fuel pump relay.
My 1990 Honda accord had the same problem and that was the cause.
It would go dead with no power at all.
And if it dosent have one look for the map sensor.
www.am-autoparts.com...
edit on 4/5/2011 by dreamfox1 because: info
reply posted on 17-7-2011 @ 08:27 PM by LargeFries
reply to post by granpabobby
have you tried disconnecting both battery cable leads for five minutes then re-installing the cables onto the battery? sometimes one of the many sensors, modules and electronic brains can get problematic, and this would re-set them.
also: your local library has automobile manuals you may use. you may have to request the one for your vehicle, and in a few days they will have it in from the main branch. usually one is not permitted to take out reference books. look up your situation, find the diagnosis, then make copies of those pages using their copy machine, which will require pocket change.
best of luck.
PS: also sounds a little like vapor lock.
have you tried disconnecting both battery cable leads for five minutes then re-installing the cables onto the battery? sometimes one of the many sensors, modules and electronic brains can get problematic, and this would re-set them.
also: your local library has automobile manuals you may use. you may have to request the one for your vehicle, and in a few days they will have it in from the main branch. usually one is not permitted to take out reference books. look up your situation, find the diagnosis, then make copies of those pages using their copy machine, which will require pocket change.
best of luck.
PS: also sounds a little like vapor lock.
reply posted on 17-7-2011 @ 08:49 PM by granpabobby
reply to post by LargeFries
Will need to do this as I need the electrical schematics and computer pin voltages to ck for a loose wire.
Fuses not haveing power to the ignition modual or the ECM in a no run situation would indicate the ignition switch.
This switch is repeatedly turned on and off trying to get it started...sometimes it has a "funny " feel to it like it hangs for s split second.
Will replace it Monday and see what happens
New problem has shone up today I drrove about 10 miles and turned the car off..no restart..after about 5 try ..of turneing the key on and off it started !
I hate computer cars...where are the points..distributer and carbs ?. Old School !!!!
Will need to do this as I need the electrical schematics and computer pin voltages to ck for a loose wire.
Fuses not haveing power to the ignition modual or the ECM in a no run situation would indicate the ignition switch.
This switch is repeatedly turned on and off trying to get it started...sometimes it has a "funny " feel to it like it hangs for s split second.
Will replace it Monday and see what happens
New problem has shone up today I drrove about 10 miles and turned the car off..no restart..after about 5 try ..of turneing the key on and off it started !
I hate computer cars...where are the points..distributer and carbs ?. Old School !!!!
edit on 17-7-2011 by granpabobby because: add to content
reply posted on 17-7-2011 @ 11:21 PM by autowrench
reply to post by granpabobby
Here is the tech. Access and unplug the ECM, and wait 30 minutes. Plug it back in, drive the car for a few miles. GM cars have a logical Electronic Control Module, it learns as you drive. It has learned you had worn out parts, and compensated. When you "reboot" it like I told you, it will relearn and record default settings.
If this fails, I know what else could be wrong too, U2 me, and I will tell you how to fix it.
Here is the tech. Access and unplug the ECM, and wait 30 minutes. Plug it back in, drive the car for a few miles. GM cars have a logical Electronic Control Module, it learns as you drive. It has learned you had worn out parts, and compensated. When you "reboot" it like I told you, it will relearn and record default settings.
If this fails, I know what else could be wrong too, U2 me, and I will tell you how to fix it.
reply posted on 18-7-2011 @ 04:51 PM by autowrench
OK, I know another thing that could be the root of the problem. Bear with me here. If you look at a GM wiring diagram in Mitchel's, trace the orange
wires, you will see that all power supply wires are in fact orange, or orange/black stripe, and all come together at a common point. This point is
under the dash and carpet, and takes more than a few hours to fix. First, find the wire bundle and trace it until you find the point where they
all come together. Un-ape the wires as you go. You will see, when accessed, that at least 11 power supply wires come together, with no fuse of breaker
of any kind. Usually there are 5 on one side, 6 on the other, more accessories means more wires. This is General Motors built in obsolesces. Say that
that little switch on the door that turns on the interior light get wet and shorts. This one short is far reaching. Voltage drops.Things began to go
wrong, Engine refuses to start, then starts later. Light are dimmed, or flashing.
What we do is buy one 50 Amp automotive circuit breaker from an auto parts store. Cut the wires, and, and place a ring type terminal on each wire, keeping then separate, some on one side, some on the other side. Place the rings on the breaker, tighten the nuts, and tape it up real good. Put the dash back in, and screw everything down tight.
You will notice a vast improvement right away. More power is available, lights are much brighter, every electrical device works better.
For a good wrench this is a 2 & 1/2 hour job. And it is worth the effort. We charge $250 to do this, and every time it is very successful. Try it if you dare, and good luck to you. Once learned, you can make money off off your friends fixing their GM cars and trucks. Every GM since 1986 had this built in problem. Fords and Dodges are different, I am GM trained.
What we do is buy one 50 Amp automotive circuit breaker from an auto parts store. Cut the wires, and, and place a ring type terminal on each wire, keeping then separate, some on one side, some on the other side. Place the rings on the breaker, tighten the nuts, and tape it up real good. Put the dash back in, and screw everything down tight.
You will notice a vast improvement right away. More power is available, lights are much brighter, every electrical device works better.
For a good wrench this is a 2 & 1/2 hour job. And it is worth the effort. We charge $250 to do this, and every time it is very successful. Try it if you dare, and good luck to you. Once learned, you can make money off off your friends fixing their GM cars and trucks. Every GM since 1986 had this built in problem. Fords and Dodges are different, I am GM trained.
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