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Need a recommendation for a tomahawk and survival knife.

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posted on Feb, 8 2011 @ 09:50 AM
I'm looking forward to this winter getting over so I can get out and get a chance to use whatever I'm going to purchase, the weather in the northeast has been brutal and we're all sick of it. I want to have some beers, get out in my kayak, catch some fish and get some sun.

posted on Nov, 2 2011 @ 03:47 PM
reply to post by Jeremiah Johnson

If you want a reasonably priced tomahawk try this one
British Light Infantry Axe - forged model from James Townsend

I have carried one of these re-enacting for nearly 20 years... and it is quite sturdy and useable
Great price ($22) 26 oz... good for all sorts of chopping activity.
You will need to give it a better edge than it comes with but it sharpens up fine.

If you want a better camp axe I would go with the Condor 12" hatchet around $40 VPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09GJ7ZDMKT59X24D8DKD

decent steel...

I personally have a Wetterlings "bushcraft" axe... much more useful but
around $75. 19" long.... hand made... comes with a sheath...

Good prices for this and other Wetterlings at Ben's Backwoods...

I will let others comment on knives...
Mysefl... a Bushcraft axe and a good Mora knife...
Excellent combo...

If you want to bushcraft ... I usually am not worried about "tactical" use of these items...
They are tools to me...

Good luck and get outside!!

posted on Nov, 3 2011 @ 02:22 PM
You could just pick up one of these and kill two birds with one stone.

Hymalayan Imports Chiuwa Ang Khola Khukuri

Quality Khukuri's will out chop any small tomahawk/camp hatchet and can handle the tasks of any survival knife, and the one I linked above is The best quality Khukuri available, from the most reputable Khukuri house known..

After time in the bush, I have heard many people (including myself) say I wish I had brought a bigger knife/chopper/machete etc..

You will never hear someone say " I should have brought a smaller knife".

When it comes to bush/survival type knife, bigger is always better.
Chopping power and edge retention is where any survival knife will count the most.

posted on Nov, 3 2011 @ 03:08 PM
It always good to pass some time, doing some tomahawk throwing against a dead log in camp.

I bought a triple set of Wetterlings, including a tomahawk, with all hickory handles and drop forged blades.

I like the Benchmade knives, but a machete is very nice for cutting brush, as long as you keep your non knife holding hand, behind your back like a fencer.

I prefer training swords when I'am scouting for deer, in order to slice thru spyder webs, slashing flying bugs; brush, etc without the fear of getting cut.

Cold Steel sells some nice ones with 100% polypropyene construction.

You can order them, [except for the Wetterlings,] and some nice tomahawks and knives at Smoky Mountain Knife Works.

"Hurl that Hawk"

Book: Knife and Tomahawk Throwing by Harry K. McEvoy, Tru-Balance Knife Company 2155 Tremont Blvd., N.W. Grand Rapids, MI 49504
edit on 3-11-2011 by Erno86 because: added a sentence

edit on 3-11-2011 by Erno86 because: added a few words

posted on Nov, 26 2011 @ 02:48 AM
if your on a budget, go to a pawn shop and find a shinglers hammer,it has a 1 1/2 wide blade you can sharpen, about 5-6 inches long, and a hammer head on other end handle is one piece, 2$ last one i bought.cold steel sells special forces shovel, its highly rated,very versatile.regular hatchets and short axes do work great, but they are WAY too dangerous, they always seem to be too close to parts of your body, and too readily to cut you. a long handled light axe is way to go, if you intend to use it a need distance to keep the sharp edge from your body parts,a deep cut in the boonies means death.estwing sells these with a one piece head and handle you can hammer with.for light duty the small shovel can be sharpened on one side and will chop very well,just get a high quality one.for a saw, take with you a bow saw blade,and run a 2 inch long bolts though holes on both ends , with a nut and tighten,cut a branch,one foot longer than blade, slot with bow saw blade on both ends 2 inches deep,bend branch and install blade into slots,and presto,wood branch bow saw.kukuri knifes can be good tools ,but most are cheap and made from soft steel, they dull as fast as you can sharpen them,they need carefull handling too, you cant carry all the knives and hatchets and axes you want too.survival knives are overated and most uneccasary,a 4-5 inch sheath knife ,good quality will do most of what you require of it,and a swiss army knife,then deside on the larger axe,machete,shovel,and call it done.
edit on 26-11-2011 by madokie because: (no reason given)

edit on 26-11-2011 by madokie because: (no reason given)

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posted on Nov, 30 2011 @ 10:57 AM
you want bas ass stuff

check this they have knives airguns and alot other stuff

posted on Feb, 14 2012 @ 05:15 PM
reply to post by Jeremiah Johnson

Get what your comfortable with because this can get very personal and again their is no right answer. I will tell you what is used by one of the best field surivival field instructors, a guy named Reggie Bennett. He carries a Buck nighthawk and has used in classes for the last three years without a hiccup. I carry a Blackjack Halo but would be comfortable carrying the Buck.
As far as the hatchet is concerned I will lean to the bush pilots in Alaska and opt for the EstWing hatchet you can get at Home Depot (or Lowes can't remember) Nothing to break under harsh conditions and gets the job done. IT even has decent balance if you have to defend yourself with it.
One piece of advice, sexy isnt always the best.

posted on Feb, 14 2012 @ 05:25 PM
You can get a full steel hatchet at any bigger store for maybe twenty or thirty dollars.For a survival knife spend 50-100 bucks and get a nice bowie knife.Make sure the blade is one piece down to the bottom of the handle,full tang.None of that blade goes an inch into the handle garbage.

posted on Jul, 14 2014 @ 08:21 AM
This is an old thread, I guess i will give it a bump. As a new prepper, survivalist, I am wondering what guys are choosing in the tomahawk category. I have been doing some research and the RMJ Shrike seems to be the one everybody loves but its pushing $500. Anybody have a good rec in the sub $200 range?

I am seriously looking at the Gerber Downrange.... tell me why I should or shouldn't change my mind.

thanks all!

posted on Aug, 19 2014 @ 12:40 PM
a reply to: houston101

the 420 steel is not terribly great IMO. I have and use the Estwing Riggers axe

Has alwaysse done what i have asked of it, but it comes with a rather blunt edge but a few drawings with a decent file or other means of sharpening will make it 100%. plus it is tool steel, very hard, but not rust resistant so you must treat it like any other mild steel and oil it after polishing or use. I know its shiny new, but they lacquer it during manufacture. Has an actual hammer head so no issues with using it to pound nails/stakes, bust bricks and what not. Also has a nail puller in the bottom of the axe head, but i tried it once and the head bent out of line with the handle. I just bent it back and havent used it for pulling nails since, i'll use an honest hammer or nail puller for that.

I have both used and miss used mine from everything from chopping small brush and kineling to busting bricks and pounding in thick nails. Just be sure to treat it with respect with good maintenance and general safty that you would treat any other traditional ax.

I also use the campers ax

Come sharp as a razor and with a sheath but needs the general maintenance as mentioned above for the issues of tool grade steel.

I paid 29 USD for the riggers ax and 40 for the campers ax here in Missouri.

For the prying bit as stated in the linked article for your possible ax it also talks about its prying ability. This may be a bit limited esp with its thinness and 420 steel. I would go instead with a hooligan bar of sturdy metal. Example anything not welded would be essentially useless to keep you out or in.

posted on Aug, 19 2014 @ 06:51 PM

originally posted by: CaPpedDoG
For a survival knife I would look at the Esee RC-5. The things a beast!

I'm tossing in a 2nd vote for an ESEE brand blade. I've carried an ESEE-3 EVERY day for 4 years, from Afghanistan to work and even a couple weddings.

It has been my go-to tool for nearly everything. Great steel, thick blade, full tang construction and a tight-fitting Kydex sheath. The 3" blade also means I don't attract undue attention if it is exposed and is easily concealed by a shirt hem.

My only complaint is I bought a half-serrated blade. So instead of it taking a few minutes to get an edge I have to break out the ceramic rods. Luckily mine has deep, widely scalloped serrations. The newer ones I've seen are quite a bit tighter and would be harder to sharpen IMO.

posted on Aug, 19 2014 @ 08:33 PM
a reply to: Jeremiah Johnson

Get yourself a good ka-bar knife. The older the better.

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