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How To Get Bulletproof

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posted on Oct, 7 2010 @ 03:37 PM
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I always loved those armored attache' cases that you saw the Russians using back when the coup was going on. Remember that? Basically, it's a folded up full body shield of kevlar and armor plates, all disguised to look like an attache' case. Nice...(and quick, in a pinch).




posted on Oct, 8 2010 @ 10:02 AM
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bulletproof gel suits seem to be the way of future, light and flexible and supposedly can stop most calibers, the bullets just bounce off the suits with little to no impact.
www.digitaljournal.com...



posted on Oct, 13 2010 @ 07:52 PM
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reply to post by rajaten
 

Both the SUV and individual COMPLETE body armor would be hard to make. However, it is not impossible to come up with something realistic and not too expensive (relatively). First, got drafted in 72, spent 11 yrs active duty, just retired 4 mos ago from reserves as a combat engineer, E-8 (out of 9) been to SEA, two tours in the desert, expert rifleman etc., so I'm familiar with this. The easiest thing to do for IBA (Individual body armor) is to buy a store bought set off the shelf. It is legal in most states. You want a "carrier" (vest) class IIIA; IIIA trauma plates, front and back, with a "nad pad" (gonad protector) and neck collar. You also want a PASGT level III helmet. There are newer types that we wore but this one gives more coverage over the neck and ears. I think by the time that you created something of your own you would spend this much or more. Also they make "ballistic shorts" to go with this but we never wore them. Spec ops shin pads, knee pads and elbow pads. Certainly easier to buy than make. This can all be found on line. I am not aware of anyone that makes "full body" armor, that isn't a bomb squad suit. The bank robbers in LA made theirs out of flak vests but they ultimately failed and you would be too heavy. The SUV can't be made to the equivalent standard of an up armored Suburban. You can, however, upgrade it to the point that it offers some light protection, which could possibly be the difference between living and dying. First, you want AR plate, not steel plate (even though it is steel) that is 1/2" thick (about 12.5 mm). You or someone you know would have to be handy with tools and mechanically minded. Unless you are going to look like Mad Max the best you can do is to plate the inside of the 4 doors and the back tailgate. If you are creative you could also cut pieces for the front floor board and the firewall on the inside of the engine compartment. This would offer the most practical means of protection without being a Saudi prince. Best Regards 2cents



posted on Oct, 13 2010 @ 11:05 PM
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Getreadyalready, and tripod are on the right track IMO. I'm a certifiable gun nut, and have shot lots of stuff with lots of stuff. The trick to stopping a projectile is energy transfer. The projectile must use some of it's kinetic energy to pass through an object. When that object or objects require more energy to penetrate than the bullet has the round stops. The problem with 1/2" steel plate is that it is heavy, thick, and hard to work with. 2 pieces of 1/4" plate with something really gooey like 90A urethane or silicone in between would be far more effective, and weigh about the same. The pieces do not have to be composite. In a door for instance you can have a shell formed to the inner aspect of the outer door skin, and a flat plate on the inside of the door panel. The dynamic media(urethane etc...) can be afixed to either shell or both, whichever works better in application. The idea is to deform/fragment, then slow. You could even use 4 layers of 1/8" steel with goo between and it would be even more effective. this si the concept behind laminar armor. Frag, slow, frag, slow. Even if a higher powered roound did make it all the way through there is a bit better chance of your surviving the hit because a least some of the velocity has been reduced, and the projectile has hopefully lost some mass.

The other issue is useability. I know we are talking zombie apocalypse scenario here, but truthfully you are 3 billions times more likely to be shot by a miscreant with a .22 or .380 for your burger money than having heavy artillery brought to bear on you ever. Plus big armor is visually perceptible. If you look like a threat you are more likey to be shot at. I would recommend at least a IIa soft vest worn as an undergarment all the time, and something a bit heftier (IIIa, or III) made into a nice heavy jacket, like a leather jacket if it goes with your style. It won't cover everything by any means but it will cover your vital organs without increasing your risk of being the one shot at. Plus if your protection is big, hot, bulky, and takes 10 minutes to put on then it will be at home in your closet on the day you get shot. If it is daily wearable then you will at least be likely to have it on out of habit on that day. Last I checked they haven't announced the exact itinerary for when TSHF. A turtle suit in the garage won't stop any bullets headed at you while shopping downtown. A IIa soft vest will not keep small arms fire from hurting like HELL, and even breaking some ribs, but you'll live long enought to return fire. The whole idea to me even with the vehicle is to buy enough survival time to get the heck out of Dodge. Not try to stand like Ironman with your manly bits swaying in the breeze.

Modification, and alteration of the stuff already available into discreet pieces of self protection is the way to go.



posted on Oct, 13 2010 @ 11:56 PM
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reply to post by rajaten
 

May have be said....

Google "Ned Kelly" Bushranger.

Australias favorite bushranger of old.

Built steel armour to fight TPTB.

Alternatively - stay out of sight and leave no trace but death.
edit on 13-10-2010 by CitizenNum287119327 because: (no reason given)



posted on Oct, 14 2010 @ 12:03 AM
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The Hi-Tech Gel filled helmet to stop the kinetic energy of a bullet sounds good.

But wouldn't that kenetic energy be transferred to snap their neck?



posted on Oct, 14 2010 @ 12:30 AM
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Originally posted by CitizenNum287119327


But wouldn't that kenetic energy be transferred to snap their neck?


Nope, think of it this way. Would the kinetic energy of firing the weapon, grip pressed against your forehead, snap your neck? No. The kinetic energy of recoil is equal to the kinetic energy of the round. The gun weighs a lot more, and has a wide point of connection to you, and doesn't develop much velocity. The bullet is very light, has a very small point of impact, and is moving at an incredible velocity, designed to penetrate. The helmet absorbs the energy, spreading it out over more time, and area than a direct impact. With the possible exception of a 1oz HV slug, bullets don't move their targets much at all. They go through them.



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