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Gardening 101 All Out War pt2

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posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 09:11 PM
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So lets say you read my prior post on this, have decided on a location with the most
sun possible,access to water,have decided on the size of garden you can reasonably
manage, have considered what fencing you will need to protect against critters(4 legged
and 2 Legged). Now we will consider timing. Here in Zone 5, you can get your garden going in March if you know what cool season crops to grow, and some tricks of the
trade which I will get into later. For some of you this means you may not be starting
your garden until next spring, for others you may still grow some plants with good results if you hustle. But let me be clear. To prepare your garden properly, it takes
some time, thought, and a lot of work. It generally does not pay off well to race into
it half heartedly on a whim. As I have said, gardening is all out war and if you want a
Victory Garden, the preparation of the garden is akin to boot camp. Which leads us to
the next consideration which is Soil Conditions. Now if you have nothing but a shallow
layer of soil with rock ledge underneath, nasty hard pan, sandy rocky desert, or pavement, you might want to stop right here and consider building raised beds, or
growing vegetables in the largest containers you can get your hands on. Those big
black plastic tubs that trees are sold in work well. This is a whole different chapter that
I will discuss later. For the time being, I am trying to keep this info on a linear track.
So lets say you have good, fairly good , or somewhat poor soil. The next thing you are
going to want to do is get your hands on a tiller. Buy one, rent one, borrow one, pay
someone, or trade use of one. The Troy Built works wonders, Husqvarna sp.? make them, along with many other Brands. The mantis little tiller is great too, but for breaking new ground, cutting through turf/sod especially in a larger garden, I would
recommend the biggest that you can comfortably and safely handle. Hopefully, your
garden is on level ground. If not, you can still do it, but you will have to take into
consideration soil runoff/erosion, water runoff, and the general physical stresses
of working on a steep hill,uneven ground etc. In other words, try to pick a spot that
it will be easy to get a wheelbarrow/cart/small truck to. This is especially important
as no matter how good your soil is, you will be adding leaves,compost,etc. to it
over time. Not to mention the difficulties you will run into if you grow a 500 pound
pumpkin only to realize you can't move the damn thing out of the garden!

So don't paint yourself into a corner. Also, if you do build an access gate, make sure it is wide enough to allow your cart,etc. to pass. Back to soil. Generally dark soil is
good, while light sandy colored soil is lacking in nutrients and/or organic matter.
But that can be amended. So for the time being lets get to tilling. If you are starting
a vegetable garden in a lawn or field, some would recommend cutting out the sod,
and/ or top layer of plant material. This could prove helpful if you plan on planting right away,as you wont have clumps of sod to deal with. Personally, I just till it under. I mean Till,Till,and Till again until the soil and existing plant material is broken up and mixed well. Toss any large rocks you come across off to the side as you go. It would be a good idea to do this in the late summer/fall if you are planning
on starting in the following spring. When that time comes you can just till over a few
more times on a dry spring day. Now lets say you have it tilled to satisfaction. Now it
is time to test the soil for P.H. Nitrogen, Potassium, and phosphorus. Also to check the general consistency of the soil. Soil test kits are available at garden centers, online, or friends. Local Agricultural schools often offer a test program via mail in sample. Testing the soil is very similar to testing pool water. Follow the instructions carefully and you should get a decent reading. Generally you want a 6.6 p.h. level




posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 09:23 PM
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Thank you for the interesting information. I will try to remember this for when the day comes I shall be growing my own crop.

But rather than the "fragile earth" forum, wouldn't this be better in the "survivalist" forum?

I would expect you will get a lot more views and interested parties to respond over there.

If you want it moved you can simply ask the mod to do so and they will get around to fixing it for you. Just a suggestion as information like you have here should be passed around.

This is very good stuff for a thread though wildmanimal, and I thank you for sharing your tips and tricks and teaching us something USEFUL for once!



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 09:28 PM
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reply to post by muzzleflash
 


Well Thanks for your response. Maybe I will try to move to the survival
Forum. Do I U2U the Staff to do that? Let me know when you get a chance.
THX Wildmanimal



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 09:31 PM
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I think this is a great idea for a thread, but not 'threads', why not stick with your first one at least for a couple pages eh?
www.abovetopsecret.com...



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 09:37 PM
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Enjoyed the information! I started a garden in the spring....doing fairly well. Any suggestions on organic solutions for bugs? Fire ants aphids



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 10:00 PM
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reply to post by twitchy
 


Maybe I should, but I am new at this, are you not supposed to create more than One? Let me know. Thanks.



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 10:12 PM
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reply to post by fliptop
 


Try hosing the buggers with a spray nozzle. Be consistent. Daily or every other
day. They will get the point. Also Dust them with sifted kitchen flour. they hate that.Next, a capfull of Tide Laundry detergent mixed with 2 gallons of water
in a hand pump sprayer. Nail them with that. 1 time per week. Finally as far as
fire ants. Here where I am we don't have those. But we have regular ants and
carpenter ants. Now if you take some powdered Boric Acid and mix it with some jelly or pancake syrup and put that on a flat surface or paper plate, they
will go to town on it. After they have had their fill they return to the nest and
share it with all their mean little friends. Well that wipes them all out. Give
it a go, it isn't expensive. Let me know if it works on those fire ants or not.
If it does, send me a U2U about it. Oh yeah, when you spray nozzle your plants , just don't go too wild and damage the crops.



posted on Jun, 28 2010 @ 10:46 PM
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reply to post by fliptop
 
Okay, just wrote a long post to help you with the ants and explain some of their weird behaviors in a vegetable garden and then the post vanished. Soooooo, here's my abbreviated advice: Google "fire ants aphids" and you'll be amazed about the herding ability of ants and it will show you what to do.

Just for fun you should also google "phorid flies ants", the Zombie effect.

Note to OP: Great thread, but please go back to the OP and break up the slab of text with a few paragraph breaks. It was all very good info, just difficult to read. Love the thread,

STM



[edit on 6/28/2010 by seentoomuch]



posted on Jul, 5 2010 @ 10:08 PM
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Thank you. I will try the boric acid and jelly. I did try hand soap with oil in water for the aphids (once) but will try that again and/or the tide and water. I will share the results.



posted on Jul, 5 2010 @ 10:17 PM
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Originally posted by seentoomuch
reply to post by fliptop
 


Just for fun you should also google "phorid flies ants", the Zombie effect.



STM



[edit on 6/28/2010 by seentoomuch]



posted on Jul, 5 2010 @ 10:19 PM
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reply to post by fliptop
 


Very interesting about the Phorid flies! Who would have thought! Thank you I will look into it a little more and try to decide if the flies are worth it.



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