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Free Energy you can make at home

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posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 06:15 AM
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FREE ENERGY

The following information is being provided due to the realization that corporate greed will kill such ideas to continue the for profit fleecing of the planet for energy that you could be generating at home.

I have lived in Las Vegas my entire life. I have paid $400.00 a month power bills when the casinos down the street have light bulbs covering every inch of their building. My fellow citizens and I have been paying for their power consumption for too long.

After 20 years in Hotel Management in Las Vegas I have lived paycheck to paycheck due to the corporate greed of corporations who have paid me chump change while reinvesting their profits in new buildings and never paying dividends to their stock holders. They have kept me so broke, even in a Management position that I have not been able to spend the thousand dollars it takes to build this prototype. Friends I have told about this don’t want to part with any of their money so I now give it to the world for free.

I am divulging this information to ATS first due to my hopes that many of you will actually build one of these in your garage to prove the ability to create energy and free yourself from the greedy power companies.

After the President told us he was giving 3 billion dollars of our tax revenue to the power companies for the so called Smart Grid to create jobs and hook green energies to the grid, I discovered the truth behind this lie. He is buying them new meters that will allow them to read the meter without sending a meter reader to your house. This will cost thousands of jobs as every meter reader in the country will be fired using funds from the tax payers. Their greed has gone too far. Although the power company should have done this years ago, the fact that my tax dollars are being spent to lose jobs, under the lie that they are creating them has contributed to me releasing this information to the public for free.

I no longer care if I make money from this concept as long as the greedy power companies lose in the process!

So here it is:

I am so gonna laugh at those morons that will just attack this thread without even trying to build it. Keep paying your power bill morons. Ya I’ve seen your needless attacks on posters at ATS.

Anyway.

First how I came up with the idea:

My stereo went out in my truck. I wonder how many world changing ideas come from something so simple.

So I used an Inverter and plugged a boom box into it that was running off my cigarette lighter.

Sitting at a stop light one day it hit me! Household appliances can be run off of the alternator of a car. The alternator in your car has been refined over the years to have very little drag on your engine. In fact you can spin one easily with your finger.

An Inverter changes the 12 volt direct current in your car to the 110 volt Alternating current of your household.

Therefore a low power consumption electric motor that spins at 1,000 RPM will turn dozens of Alternators. Each inverter connected to those alternators will power two household appliances. You will need higher watt Inverters for more powerful appliances. Don’t try to use a 350 watt inverter like mine to power heavy appliances. There are 2000 watt inverters that should be used.

I DID GET A CHANCE TO TEST THIS THEORY PARTIALLY.

My power went out and I grabbed my battery and inverter from my truck. I hooked up the television, playstation, and two fans (I live in Vegas an it is hot) to the battery and ran them for almost 6 hours before the battery started going down. Now if an alternator was recharging that battery how long would it have lasted? One of those fans could have been recharging the battery with an alternator from the car (if it spins at 1,00 RPM or more).

Currently due to the limited use of inverters they are expensive. However, with an invention like this making them sell millions more of them the prices will drastically drop.

There you have it. I gave it to you fro free.

All you need is a 12 volt battery, 2000 watt inverter, car alternator, and a 1,000 RPM electric motor to spin the alternator. However, you will need several of each of these to power multiple appliances.

These will reduce your power bill drastically based on how many of your household items you power with it.

Stick it to your power company for me would you!!

Or be an idiot and just attack this thread and go about paying that huge power bill.

[edit on 1-4-2010 by asala]




posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 06:33 AM
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Dude I think youll like this site

free-energy-info.co.uk...

Plans for a few hundred devices you can make at home from regular tools. Even a beginners intro into what its all about and an electronics guide.

For Free!

This tech is too important to charge people for anyhow. Btw, the ones in chapter 13 havnt been proven to work yet so I wouldnt suggest them.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 07:23 AM
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ok i'll bite, wth


Mate.. i'm a firm believer in the concept of free energy, don't get me wrong. Tom Bearden will go down in history IMHO.

But ah.. colour me "moron"...



and a 1,000 RPM electric motor to spin the alternator.


what's spinning the electric motor?
your finger?
your petrol engine?
your good intentions?



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 07:33 AM
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reply to post by whattheh
 


I'm guessing you won't like what I say here but I'll say it anyway before you go investing too much chasing this idea.

An alternator with no load on it is easy to spin because the only power needed as input is enough to overcome bearing friction and accelerate the rotor but provide power to excite the rotor field and apply a load to the output terminals and it's no longer easy to keep the rotor spinning. The reason is that an alternator is simply a transducer which converts mechanical energy applied to the shaft into electrical energy extracted from the stator via a 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier (for DC output). Basically you only get out somewhat less power than you put into it because of a variety of losses like windage, friction, copper losses (I^2.Z), iron losses (hysteresis) etc etc.

The truth of the above can be verified without building anything at all by simply letting your car idle in neutral, switch on a large electrical load like all lights or maybe just pushing in the cigarette lighter and observing what happens while paying particular attention to the engine's response to this extra load. A small car would produce a more noticeable response of course. EG 'standard' voltage regulator output is about 13.8V DC so turning on a 30A load requires the engine to provide an additional 13.8 x 30 = 414W or over 1/2 a HP in order to keep the alternator turning which will momentarily slow the engine down the instant that the load is applied. If fitted with an electronic engine management system the computer will compensate by injecting more fuel in order to restore the idling speed but an older type engine with a carburettor and simple kettering (points) ignition system will continue to idle slower with the extra load.

You *may* be able to spin an alternator with zero load on it with a small motor like an electric fan (never tried that) but apply a load like I described above and the motor will stall, probably damaging its windings via overheating. IE the above 414W load requires more than 414W input via the motor to keep the alternator spinning.

Just something to think about


input = output + losses therefore no overunity in this system


[edit on 1/4/2010 by Pilgrum]



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 07:35 AM
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reply to post by Funk bunyip
 


Well you called yourself the moron.

The 12 volt battery connected to the Inverter!

The alternator charges the battery that powers the electric motor that spins the alternator.

Were you paying attention?

See I knew there would be many people that don't pay attention and make stupid comments like, your finger, your good intentions.

Write another check to your power company and move along.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 07:39 AM
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ok.. i can see i'm not gonna win this one.





move along.


Thanks for the tip.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 07:47 AM
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reply to post by Pilgrum
 


I used the 1,000 RPM example as that is the idle speed of an engine. The engine speed (RPM) may be increased to provide additional power, but still does not require more than 2500 RPM and does not require as much torque as an internal combustion engine.
As long as the electric motor provides enough RPM for the power consumption you will get enough energy to charge the 12 volt battery that is powering the appliances.

My prototype was to use an evaporative cooler motor as it is high torque and high RPM and would provide more than enough energy to charge the 12 volt battery that powers the inverter that is powering the appliances.

But hey no one says you need to believe me or try it. Someone here will and they can make tons of money from it.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:01 AM
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In addition, if i ran a television (the old tube type, not an LCD we use today) a playstation, and two fans for 6 hours off the charge in a car battery, why is it hard to understand that an alternator recharging that battery would have increased that 6 hour time frame?

I guess it is so simple people want to find a flaw in it.

Like he said you don't have to build anything.

Take your car battery and an inverter and see how long you an power an appliance with it.

You know hooking up an alternator will increase this time frame.

Ever notice you can take the battery out of your car and the alternator will provide enough energy to power the engine and and the headlights?



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:03 AM
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reply to post by whattheh
 


From your OP, all you've done is power appliances via a car battery and inverter and that's something I've done myself and can verify that it works, well up to the point where the battery is exhausted at least.

What you propose, but haven't built, is a closed loop system you're intending to extract energy from while keeping the system running. I just tried to save you and others some time and expense in pursuing something that I can guarantee won't be a success. The losses in the system ensure that the inverter output won't be enough to keep the motor going, let alone provide excess power for any additional loads.

The general arrangement is how we test large electric motors and generators up to their full load without having to supply anything more than the losses from an external source (motor driving an alternator which supplies the motor) and it's called 'back to back' testing. There is no excess energy produced in the process unless you consider what's produced while the system runs down after removal of external supplies, but that's only the energy you put in to get the system up to speed in the first place (minus the losses of course).



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:14 AM
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reply to post by whattheh
 


You need to try this out with a permanent magnet alternator. They cost about 300 bucks on ebay.

Zero point energy=the extraction of an electrical current from a preexisting magnetic field. The zero point being the magnetic field itself which remains undiminished.

This would not violate a law of thermodynamics, any more than a nuclear reactor does. They say you have to spend money to make money, in this instance you have to expend energy to "create" energy. But you would not be creating anything, simply extracting it.

My guess is that similar power systems are used in deep underground military bases. The greatest drawback would be generation of large amounts of heat. This could be a big problem in an underground environment where heat was already an issue.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:17 AM
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Pilgrum has a good point. When you do the math on the whole system it should abide by the law of conservation and it may just be the compexity of the setup that doesnt make it immediatly apparent, if you test a closed setup you may find it wont run perpetually in other words you wont get overunity or more than 100% efficiancy.

But and this is a big but, if there is something about the inverter or alternator that is drawing in energy from the environment such as zpe, you will get the illusion of overunity as one cant measure directly the whole system input, and it will be free energy as in you wont have to pay for it. The reason I dont think this is the case is because the parts your using are so widely used tried and tested that such an effect must have been picked up in the past, unless youve done a strange mod to them, but even then those parts come in so many different shapes and sizes.

Best way to know for sure is to run some more tests, unless your an electritical engineer the calculations are easily subjected to errors. And there is proof right there for people to see if your setup works.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:20 AM
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Pilgram, no offense but trying to explaining this to a person with no mechanical/electrical knowledge is like masturbating with a cheese grater, you know its going to be painful and not achieve the desired outcome.


Whatthe - heres putting your idea in simple terms. hop on a excercise bike with no load get up to speed then get someone to apply 3/4 brakes, hopefully that will give you an idea of what an alternator does to the drive motor while producing power.

And yes there has to be an idea of free energy out there some where but this idea aint it otherwise every auto mechanic worth his salt would be using it.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:20 AM
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So are you saying that an alternator requires more torque than a 12 volt car battery being charged by a alternator can produce?

So the electric motor I use will deplete the battery so quickly that the alternator can not charge it fast enough?

Another question, you are saying that a car alternator increases the necessary torque required to spin it based on the amount of electricity being withdrawn?

I though they use magnets that have no physical contact to generate electricity and only increasing the RPM is necessary.

How would the electric motor spinning at 2,000 RPM to spin the alternator need more electricity to spin based on the amount of electricity being withdrawn from the battery?



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:24 AM
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Originally posted by whattheh
In addition, if i ran a television (the old tube type, not an LCD we use today) a playstation, and two fans for 6 hours off the charge in a car battery, why is it hard to understand that an alternator recharging that battery would have increased that 6 hour time frame?


A large car battery fully charged could be rated at 100 ampere hours so it could theoretically supply about 16A for 6 hours. 16A at 12v is 192W but losses in the inverter would mean you'd get somewhat less in practice like around 150W of usable power. Also consider that fully discharging a lead-acid car battery is not good for it and will shorten its lifetime considerably. Deep cycle batteries such as used in boats and solar power systems fare much better for such uses.



Ever notice you can take the battery out of your car and the alternator will provide enough energy to power the engine and and the headlights?


That's true but where is the power coming from?
(look at the fuel tank)
Should add that disconnecting the battery while the engine is running is very risky for the electronics in modern engine management systems because the battery actually smooths the high frequency ripple and voltage peaks produced by the alternator. You'd get away with it on an old clunker with the only electronic device being the state of the art AM radio



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:24 AM
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Something else possibly being overlooked here is the current required to excite the alternator's rotor (the field current) which will be something like 1-2A or thereabouts or an additional 20W or more required to simply run the alternator. That 20W also needs to be provided by the motor driving the system - consider it 'overhead'.

[edit on 1/4/2010 by Pilgrum]



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:37 AM
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reply to post by Pilgrum
 


Brother.. walk with me..
when we get to the gate..
we run.

conserve your energy for April 2nd... we're in his world today.




posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:54 AM
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Originally posted by whattheh
So are you saying that an alternator requires more torque than a 12 volt car battery being charged by a alternator can produce?

So the electric motor I use will deplete the battery so quickly that the alternator can not charge it fast enough?


If you're proposing a battery driving a motor which drives an alternator which charges the battery, then yes - the battery will run down because of the losses in the system and any extra load will run it down even faster. You wouldn't get anywhere near the time you got with just the battery and inverter and the same external load.


Another question, you are saying that a car alternator increases the necessary torque required to spin it based on the amount of electricity being withdrawn?

I though they use magnets that have no physical contact to generate electricity and only increasing the RPM is necessary.


Yes - the torque required to turn the alternator is directly proportional to the electrical load on it. Car alternators don't use permanent magnets, they have a DC field winding on the rotor which is supplied via slip rings and carbon brushes. The voltage regulator modulates the field current in order to maintain a constant terminal voltage over the entire rated load and speed range.



How would the electric motor spinning at 2,000 RPM to spin the alternator need more electricity to spin based on the amount of electricity being withdrawn from the battery?


As above, the power being extracted from the alternator has to be applied via the turning the shaft and the more you're taking out, the more you need to put in. With a 100+HP engine driving it you probably barely notice the extra 1 HP needed to have the headlights on but it is reflected in extra fuel used to supply that additional input.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 08:57 AM
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reply to post by whattheh
 


No whattheh... what they are saying and what seems to be missed is that the alternator(s) can put out a certain amount of power. When you put a load on them (your appliances) there isn't enough output to:

spin the motor driving the alternator

excite the alternator

power the load (appliances)

AND

recharge the battery

So, as you're powering your stuff the battery is discharging. There's no wy around this.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 09:06 AM
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reply to post by Pilgrum
 


Thank you for clarifying. I will have to test the theory.

Also thank you for the polite responses as it is rare on this site lately.



posted on Apr, 1 2010 @ 09:21 AM
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reply to post by Pilgrum
 


I have another question for you if you don't mind. Since we were on the subject.

What do you think the power consumption is to trickle charge said 12 volt car battery?

If I got 6 hours of use out of the car battery for the TV, Playstation and 2 fans, does it require more than that amount of juice to slow charge (trickle charge) the car battery? deep cycle as you mentioned. I do get a lot of time out of the ol trolling motor.

Say while you slept you slow charged several batteries and then used them to power items.

Just a side thought.

Maybe a good emergency power source. Which i used my truck battery for as mentioned.




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