Originally posted by watcher73
You seem to have no sense of context with the single rogue wave thing.
I can't speak for this poster, but I'm pretty sure he has a fair idea of the "context with the single rogue wave thing. " Although judging by this
post...
It's almost funny to see you in here answering the OPs questions. It wasnt long ago that science said things like rogue waves and white
squalls (great movie) didnt exist.
... you may be harbouring some personal feelings towards this poster which is influencing your responses.
Originally posted by watcher73
It's cool though if you want to forget you put "wavelength (steeper)" and concentrate on me not getting some supposed context that is mostly
irrelevant to your mistake.
I understood the context of the post quite clearly, but I guess some could be forgiven for not getting it.
Originally posted by watcher73
If you really want context, you just explained to all the retards that short wavelengths are always steep and long wavelengths are always not. Neither
of those are true, but its what you said 'in context' with the rest of what you said.
I can see how some "retards" may have taken it this way. Well I have a certain familiarity with waves that only a surfer can have. Although I've
only been surfing solidly for a couple years, I've always had an affinity towards waves in general. So for the afforementioned "retards", I can
tell from my experiences (and a little common sense

) that if you have a given wave height (amplitude), a shorter wave length or period (the time
it takes for consecutive crests to pass a given point), will have steeper faces.
For example, a 6ft long period (16 second +) swell is going to have a significantly different wave profile compared to a 6ft short period (9 second or
less) wind swell. And in heavy winds, it can also cause large peaks out to sea to topple over (break) when the wave face gets too steep. This is
obviously much more hazardous than mellow, rolling swells.
So as Phage previously mentioned, waves whipped up by a close proximity storm will generally have steeper wave faces than an equivalent wave size long
period swell which has originated from a considerable distance.
[edit on 4-3-2010 by Curious and Concerned]