posted on Sep, 9 2009 @ 02:01 AM
I see alot of posts where it's stated that the member cannot actually train with a firearm. It might be helpful to know that there are a number of
alternatives which can perform every function (if not more) than a gun.
Personal Protection: You don't need a gun to protect yourself from a gunman. Self defense against a gunman is pretty straightforward. Get into a
position where you can't be shot, or take control of the gun. You don't have to take possession of it, but you do need a firm control on where
it's pointing. It is my opinion that a knife is much more dangerous than a gun. Why? A knife is dangerous no matter who is holding it and no
matter which way it's pointed. You can't control a knife blade as you can a gun barrel. A knife has no recoil. A knife makes no sound to track.
A knife doesn't run out of ammunition.
The military K-Bar is a one of the most useful survival tools you can own. If you can, pass up the stainless and go with a carbon-coated blade as
they are easier to conceal. If a K-Bar is not your style, consider the following alternatives.
1. Throwing knives. These are inexpensive (usually USD10.00/3), readily available and pretty fun to use. Learn to use them properly. The over-hand
throw you see on television is not very accurate and the dynamics of impact is laughable. If done right, an underhanded throw has more power and
insane accuracy. The balance of the knife is very important as it will effect impact more than anything. Slightly higher weight in the blade is
usually preferably as it will assist in the knife's position when it hits the target. A hilt-heavy knife is pointless unless you intend your throw
to inflict blunt-damage. Do not swing the arm, but flick. The knife should travel a straight path from starting position to release and complete
only a half-rotation before hitting the target. This is assuming your target is at a middle-range (About 10-15 yards). At close range, accuracy
isn't as important and I've seen overhand throws that were pretty devastating. This is more about what you are comfortable with. You'll learn to
range your target and adjust your throw appropriately. The benefits of learning to use throwing knives are substantial. You can't run out of
ammunition, it's not a common form of combat, it is accurate if done properly, and it's an inexpensive form of target practice. (I'm avoiding
specific phrases for a reason.)
2. Shuriken- Chinese throwing stars. The actual translation for the word is 'sword hidden in the hand'. While the throwing star is a type of
shuriken, a steel rod, three- and four-point stars, and even nails can be used. Aerodynamics is important. Use of a shuriken is simple. Throw it.
With bo-shuriken, (that's the spikes) the same rules apply as knife throwing. With stars (Hira is apparently their name... even I learned something
here), it's a simple matter of throwing it accurately. Most have directed points, so the position you hold the shuriken will effect impact. You
have to hold it a certain direction to all it's spin to produce impact sink. Use here is much simpler, but you'd be surprised how difficult it is
to master. Wind will effect your throw, depending on the weight and thickness of the shuriken. There are schools of martial arts which teach their
use. Consider instruction.
3. Axes. One of the most useful tools ever invented by man. Not very accurate for throwing unless you REALLY know what you're doing. I never got
much practice, but I've seen them used to great effect.
4. Bow-and-arrow. Standard bows can be cured wood and layers of compressed, adhesed wood. The making of an actual non-compound bow can be
difficult, but you can figure it out if you have to. (Unless you need a bow that is made of adhesed, cured woods... then you need a pro). Compound
bows use a system of pulleys to increase the mechanical output of the bow. A 'draw' is the amount of force necessary to pull the string into a
firing position (knocking). (I'm not sure how a 25lb draw would be said in English terms...) When knocking an arrow on EITHER type of bow, assuming
the bow will be near-vertical when shot, do not knock the arrow on the palm-side of the bowgrip. Many many beginners do this. The bow (unless
designed otherwise) should be slightly angled, the arrow positioned behind the string on the knuckle-side of the hand holding the bow-grip. At a
slight angle, the knuckle will serve as a supportive brace. Point, shoot. Practice. We can go into detail if you want, but these are the basics.
5. Staff. A bo-staff and a quarterstaff are just about the same thing. Some are tipped in iron, but almost all are made of hardwoods. A staff is
extremely useful in that it can serve as a walking support, defensive weapon, and basic tool. A staff, for you, must be of appropriate length and
weight. Start with one that reaches to just above your bicep, weight appropriate to your musculature. Defensively, it can be used to block, arrest
an attacker from a distance, or as a club if swung with sufficient force. My experience with staffs so-so, but it serves the same purpose as an M16
that is out of ammo. (Fix bayonets... you have no idea how hard a fixed bayonet is to use as a weapon against an intelligent opponent.) A staff can
also double as a fishing-pole, lantern stand, crude ladder, source of leverage, 1/2 of a litter, support beam, or... if it gets cold...
flint+tender+your staff... a good twenty to thirty minutes of life-saving warmth.
There is a saying... anything in the hands of a Marine is a weapon. Even as a Marine, I never truly appreciated this until another Marine used a
payphone on me. I wish that were a joke. As a weapon, for the creative mind, anything can be used. A spoon, a tire, an empty cigarette box. There
are MANY alternatives to firearms. Some just as lethal, others twice as useful.