Excuse me but I signed up as I stumbled upon this thread and laughed, laughed hard I tell you, at the ignorance in the thread. I would have passed it
up but to see the OP continue to pose like he knows something has me in fits.
Firstly this Taiwanese hunk of junk lies. It may say it is "180 lbs" but that big number should NOT
be confused with ft/lbs energy impact,
which I assure you is MUCH lower for this product. The 180 is the draw, which MUST
be high because the limbs are not efficient.. this is no
advantage. It's either that or an outside marketing gimmick lie for the rambo watching instant gratification buyer. Their website tells you, had you
looked, the actual SPEED
is 165 F.P.S (foot per second). This is what really matters but you haven't mentioned its FPS anywhere. When you see
180 lbs - 165 FPS is telling you one of two things; the manufacturer assumes you know nothing about crossbows and put a big number there, or that the
crossbow has no efficiency. By contract my crossbow, a crossbow that is a genuine full size crossbow, the Barnett Revolution has a 150 lb draw
weight.. less than yours.. but Guess what
??!11 It fires at 340FPS repeatedly with fieldtips (and I actually have a chrono). For reference this
FPS is over twice that of yours.
People in this thread have said crickey the OP could hunt a deer with that. WRONG. You need AT LEAST 200 FPS before you stand a chance of bleeding big
game and that is an extremely conservative number. 280fps is getting there for a 6 pointer. 165 would only mildly injure a yearling
What use is
that? Moreover this crossbow specs state it fires a field tip 18 incher at 165 FPS.. such a bolt is useless on big game. Your crossbow therefore would
FAIL with a necessary broadhead, wobbling along at around 80FPS before hitting the ground.
Next point is that the watchrider writes that the manual "imples" (as in does not say at all) that zeroing should occur at 50 - 100 yards. LOL. 50
yard is the maximum EFFECTIVE hunting range of a 350F.P.S crossbow, nevermind your toy. You wrote this nonsense about zeroing in at 100 yards to
insinuate how big and strong your "180 pounds (of something)" toy is. Fail.
Also WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU DOING MASKING TAPING THAT CRAP ONTO YOUR LIMBS? Even a weak bow like yours is as risk of breaking apart when fiddled under
stress. Does it come manufactured with things taped onto it? No? OK so leave it. Accessories are one thing, but if you can't actually forge real ones
then leave out the DIY attempt. Especially since I can say with 100% certainty that taping that crap on is BADLY effecting what must already be low
accuracy at over 10 yards.
Now the Watchrider obviously likes to prance around pretending he is ready for the SHTF.. taking photos in that urban home does not make you the
expert you have made out to be. Let's get this straight.. You recieved the mail order package. You then go outside and fire at what appears to be 20
yards STRAIGHT INTO A WOODEN WALL LOL.. there goes your bolts.. Let's see, you drilled them out.. but they are SCREWED up all the same right, you
didn't mention that LOL. Have you heard of a BACKSTOP? This is mine, in case you need a pointer or two;
BTW what happened to picture 3, after you had zeroed in this fine piece of equipment? No pic? Did you A) Miss the wall entirely B) Miss where you
aimed thus prooving you can not zero as you have no experience but just like to use cool tactical words like clicks or C) not take the shot because
you couldn't afford any more bolts?
The lesson learnt, which you won't admit, is you should do some research before buying a crossbow. And don't go for cheap. You should also prepare
somewhere to shoot. And if you want to do a "test, assembly and review" then you need more than a camera, you need EXPERIENCE.. experience that is
not attained by firing 2 (maybe 3) arrows into a wall on the first day.
[edit on 3-11-2009 by Actualiser]