180 lb Crossbow - Test, Assembly and Review, page 1
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Topic started on 10-9-2008 @ 01:52 PM by WatchRider
Ok, the crossbow arrived today:



The bow is well manufactured and put together. It's made in Taiwan but I can't fault the construction. It folds down to a thin 'rifle-like' proportion.



Two sling attachment points here:



and here:



There's another one here but its a bit close to the pistol grip:



Speaking of which it might be wise to pad out the grip as holding the grip for long periods will likely be uncomfortable the way it is right now:



Assembling the prods and stringing:



Now the prod assembly was simply straightening them and inserting a blackened screw through each prod hole, then through the main body, then through the remaining prod hole and tightening. Two spacers slipped in-between the pod holes to keep the screw thread more enclosed. Pretty impressive.
The prod supports are also welded,giving extra reinforcement to them.



Now onto the bit we all groan at; stringing the crossbow.



This, being 180 lbs of string force is more than I weigh but I knew it to be doable, just called for a bit of ingenuity.
Being larger than a pistol crossbow meant there was more size to use as a lever. I slipped the end caps onto the prods and began.
I tried a few methods which got nowhere.
The I just placed it, foot stirrup and right-hand prod first, into the carpet, with the shoulder-stock sticking into my stomach. This was better but I knew if I really went for it I'd probably end up in casualty with a mishapen intestine so I chucked a thick bath towel on it.

Then levered down.



She's good and only needs the red-dot sight putting on now.



The sight unit is pretty good, made in California by our colonial brothers and it's light enough to match the iron sights in weight.

The only hitch is that the xbows sighting rail (for the iron sights) has to be unscrewed slightly, swung out to one side, the crossbow flipped over to expose the iron sight elevation adjuster.
Which you must then unscrew.
If you don't do this the red-dot sight will not sit correctly on the sight rail.

Here's the story by pictures.

Right, the screw you see clearly to the left of the picture must be removed, along with the elevation wheel (unscrew).



Then unscrew by 2-3 turns the screw nearest the stock.
Unscrew the other 2 FULLY.
The sighting rail will now be able to be swung out.



Now flip the bow over and the sighting rails iron sight elevation screw head will be exposed. Unscrew it and bag it up with the iron sights and other screws, you may need them if your red-dot sight fcks up. The pistol crossbow that I posted a thread on has iron sights that look to interchangeable with this models.



Use this type of screwdriver, otherwise you will likely ground out the screw heads. The Taiwan folk really go to town on torqueing up the sights.



Now swing back the sight rail, re-align and screw up all the screws.
Don't worry if you can't get it 100% in line, when you come to zero the weapon you will practically eliminate any mis-alignment for small errors.

Now install your red-dot sight.
You want about 3 inches of eye relief for me this was ok





Onto the fun bit, zeroing.

My back garden is only 30 yards to the firing boards and the sight manual implies that 50 - 100 yards is best for zeroing.





I was expecting the strain on cocking the string to be a ball-buster, but it wasn't too bad.



Now onto a semi-flaw of the weapon. The weapons safety catch, while performing the job admirably and a cinch to operate has a potentially lethal flaw.
The safety, like the pistol crossbow I reviewed previously, is :
Catch Fully to the rear is the safety ON!
Catch Fully forward is safety OFF!
The side of the weapon has a safety catch aide memoir etched in. Guess what it says!
Catch Fully to the rear is OFF!
Catch Fully forward is ON!



Maybe the Taiwan folk relate the 'ON' to ready to fire and OFF to 'it won't fire, as it's off' but for me and I think most westerners this is a dangerous assumption. Asian mentality vs European / American? Who knows, but it is what it is.

Anyway, adjusted the elevation to the lowest setting it will go, I consider this to be about the 45 - 50 yard mark.

Fired off the first bolt, Twuum! The noise it makes seems much less than that of the 80 lb Pistol Crossbow. I'd say the same as a biggish elastic band twanging.
I aimed dead center of the boards.
Whack! It hits high and to the left of my aim



This is at thirty yards.



I intended to show you folks what this baby can do at close quarters once I'd zero'd, but I decide against it, as it is very likely to tear straight through and end up in someones back garden.!!


reply posted on 10-9-2008 @ 02:09 PM by WatchRider
2nd shot
Made some adjustments to the windage, 5 clicks to the right.

Retrieving the bolt was fun and games, had to drill out the bugger.

Fired off bolt 2.

Whack! This time it hits center right, I've over compensated.



Come 2 clicks left.

Retrieve bolt.


Fired 3rd bolt, it looks good for zeroing.

So that ended the days activities.
If you look at bolt 2 hitting center right you can see a 'creep effect' this is something to be aware of when zeroing at sub 50 yard targets and 'forgetting' to compensate by aiming lower. We all make mistakes though and I forgot this golden rule.

Still the real test comes in the field when I'll zero it at longer ranges

The next thing was to get the field / maintenance kit attached to it. Several places are possible - The butt stock has several hollows for kit to be taped to but the place that I chose was the prod support recesses.

I wrapped the lens cloth and string wax (candle material) together in the left hand section and a spare string and sight-battery in the right section like so



Both of these are waterproofed and the balance is not affected much.

Just 2 sling pins and swivels to add and it'll be complete.

for now it'll do though

One more thing:

Mind your fingers!
Do not do the shooter-style 'finger curl' when aiming
and firing (like this).



You will end up with potentially broken or mangled fingers!
I know, cause when I was a young dude (13 or so) this happened to me (although thankfully the string only jarred them, being a low poundage).
Like this, all the time is wise:



Or this way...



[edit on 10-9-2008 by WatchRider]

[edit on 10-9-2008 by WatchRider]

[edit on 10-9-2008 by WatchRider]

[edit on 10-9-2008 by WatchRider]



reply posted on 10-9-2008 @ 02:46 PM by WatchRider
Hi Free!

I got it from here:

www.bestcrossbows.co.uk...

www.bestcrossbows.co.uk...

For about 75 pounds, they even threw in 6 extra bolts too

It is so crazy, they don't even give it a name!
It's like 'The Crossbow With No Name!'



reply posted on 10-9-2008 @ 03:08 PM by citizen smith
Regarding the bolt extraction/guide-rail lubrication thing that I mentioned in your pistol-bow assembly and test thread, I came across this...a PTFE lube that they sell in Maplins, a large can of the stuff for a decent price...maybe worth a try than paying vastly inflated archery-store prices...just dont spill it on lino or laminate flooring, stepping in the stuff in trainers, flying down the hall and smacking your head on a doorframe just aint cool!

...just a thought


reply posted on 11-9-2008 @ 12:03 AM by Ahabstar
reply to post by jpm1602




I have the recurve Fred Bear Grizzly also from 1953. Wouldn't trade it for anything, although I admit that I am as rusty as all get out. Apartment life, does that to you. Good thing was that when I was on my game, everything under 30 yards was instinctive shooting for me which really helped when I did the 20 yard 30 sec timed round in competitions.

I used to do primative shoots, wood shafts, no sights, no counter balance, no mechanical releases, only one simple bead nocklock allowed. Been a few years, but was okay enough to be ranked.
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