As a person who lives in a wild & wet climate that would make most people
scream in defeat, I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU DO NOT USE WOODEN POSTS!
if you have any ability or access to free (or nearly free) sand or
volcanic ash, you could purchase bulk quantities of material to mix
your own concrete by either using standard Portland Cement and
mixing with Volcanic Ash, Sand & crushed rock or you might even
be able to create a CHEAPER (although less strong) version of your
own Portland Cement) for concrete mixing...
With your own concrete mixes, you can then make concrete
fence posts and fence cross-beams which are strong enough against
even large animals such as bears and bulls. (and vehicles too!)
To make the fence posts last much LONGER you can create your own
kiln / heat treating oven using common materials....
so that you can GLAZE the concrete posts and beams so that they
become much more weatherproof and last up to 50 to 75 years!
Concrete is WAY BETTER than wood, just remember to use wire mesh
and rebar to reinforce the columns and beams (rebar & mesh can be
bought in fairly cheaply when in bulk)
You could ALSO use concrete for your WEATHER & PEST proof
housing in above-ground and below ground applications and you can
make False-Finishes on concrete so that it looks like tile, brick, or block
just using some fairly simply finishing techniques and colouring.
To make the forms for a round concrete fence post
take a 7 foot long piece of Metal 6 inch or 10 inch diameter pipe.
Weld a rounded end-cap on ONLY ONE end of the pipe and then
cut the whole pipe length-wise in half and then weld
a 4 inch wide, 1/4" thick long strip of steel along the edges
of each of the cut halves of the pipe so that you essentially
make a fence post mold that can be clamped together
easily using simple wood or metalworking clamps.
For creating fence-beam grooves or wire-fence tiedowns, glue
small plastic plugs or blocks to each interior half of the mold in
a linear fashion so as to form a cut-out within the cement post.
i.e. the plastic plugs or blocks will not be filled with cement as
you pour concrete into the post mold.
And using plastic plugs rather than wood or metal would allows you
to use a propane torch to burn out the plastic plug or block from the dry
fence post once it has been removed from the mold and it allows you do
make different size cutouts as your fence beam needs are determined
As a suggestion so that the final set concrete doesn't stick to the sides
of the mold, coat the interior of the mold using a grease or
lard-like material so that when you pry the mold halves apart
after setting, it will be a much easier job.
Slide a pre-made wire mesh or rebar reinforcing into the
mold interior and pour your concrete into the vertically stood mold.
You'll need to aerate the concrete so that voids are
eliminated using a concrete vibration stick (can be rented).
just ensure that you don't over-aerate to avoid any larger
aggregates settling to the botton of the mold.
Let the concrete set for 2 days and then pull the mold apart
using the steel pry handles which you REMEMBERED to weld
to the mold sides and let the concrete post air dry for about 10 days.
Lightly misting the concrete with water every 5 to 12 hours will
actually make the concrete stronger over time.
After 10 days of air drying the concrete post can be sealed using
concrete sealer, glazed or painted and inserted into the ground.
with 10 pre-made molds you could easily cover your acreage
within a few weeks.