posted on May, 28 2008 @ 09:17 AM
REPOSTED FROM "possible EMP Block"
Why use Paint?
Metallic Window screen, especially COPPER if you can find it, is a bit more effective. Tin Foil works as well.....
The Paint will do nothing for the WINDOWS... even for WIFI.
The EMP shield needs to be 'continuous' and all seams 'bonded' together.
Even a hairline crack or hole will allow EMP to enter your "cage" and destroy your equipment.
If you REALLY need to protect something from EMP, I suggest a Military Metal Box , or crate ( such as what MISSILES come packed in ).
They are continuiously welded at all the seams, and have an O ring between the hinged lid and the bottom of the "crate".. Where this O ring is, you
need to fabricate a "Window Screen STRAW" all rolled up neatly, to SMASH IN BETWEEN THE LID AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BOX TO MAKE A COMPLETE BONDED
SEAL. Think "Electrically Conductive" between the crate top and bottom, even scraping or wire brushing PAINT off to complete the seal.
THEN seal this seam with metal airconditioning tape. ( after you pack your electronics inside as detailed below )
When you put your electronics inside the box, put a layer of rubber, or even cardboard Down first, to insulate the metal bottom, top and sides from
any 'spark gap' electrical contact with your electronics.
Then remove all antennas from your electonics, remove the batteries, hard drives, memory chips AND POWER CORDS from each item.
Wrap each item in rubber or cardboard FIRST. THEN wrap each item in aluminum foil, being sure not to RIP the foil anywhere. Now re-wrap that in
another layer of cardboard, to protect the inner foil. NOW re-wrap all that with another layer of FOIL including a short, stranded 10 gauge BONDING
WIRE attatched to each 'outer' layer of foil.
Set each piece of electronics carefully inside the crate, and connect EACH bonding wire from each piece of electronics to every other piece of
electronics in the "crate".
You have now insulated each item internally from EMP and you have also created a "field" for any stray electrical pulse to EVENLY distribute
throughout the ENTIRE inside compartment, ontop the OUTER layer of foil.
********* Here is where the DEBATE starts ***********
1. DO I GROUND all the internal electronics, with their outer layer of foil, to a WET earth ground, outside the "Crate" ? ( including the outer
surface the "crate" itself)
2. DO I NOT GROUND the internal components to an outside source. ( and DO NOT Ground the outer surface of the "crate" )
********* It really depends on WHO you Believe **********
I personally think that GROUNDING will actually act as a Lightening ROD, attracting EMP. Its SO FAST... Much FASTER than Lightening, and MUCH MUCH
HIGHER voltages that even 'lightening arrstors' for HAM antennas are NOT FAST ENOUGH to 'shunt' the stray electrical pulse to even a PROPER
'WET' deep GROUND. Even a very short distance is improbable.
I PERSONALLY go with the "FLOATING GROUND" theory, like the tires of an auto insulating it from the street.
I personally BOND each component on the 'outer layer' of foil ( inside the "crate ", but I DO NOT GROUND the internal components or even the outer
'shell' of the metal "crate" to an outside WET earth Grounding rod.
By 'bonding' the internal components, you create a 'potential' for all of the stray pulses, (that gets through your OUTER crate), to evenly flow
over the entire surface area of all theOUTER foil, not just 'one corner' of your HAM or shortwave rig. This should help to dissipate the charge over
a wider area internally inside the crate, to prevent damage to select areas of a single item.
DO NOT store rolled up cords inside this "Crate". Do not store wires over 30 inches inside this crate. Do not store antennas inside this crate.
As a final step, after making sure all external seams and holes in the "crate" are sealed, perhaps you could set this crate INSIDE a vehicle, like a
covered TRUCK bed,