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Beer_Guy Claims 100mpg+ Carburetor

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posted on Jun, 8 2007 @ 11:54 AM

Originally posted by Realtruth
Interesting! No one is interested in this.

A person on ATS claims to have a 100mpg carb and no one is the least bit curious?

Last time I looked the gas prices are climbing out of site.

Would you be interested in buying one from him? I know I sure am.

Heard it all before and it always turns out to be bogus. So why get excited at yet another claim. Ive looked into to many of these claims to get excited any more. I would gladly take this post back if proven wrong.

I will tell you what bugs me the most. WHY ATS? Why not the media ware independent professionals can test it.

The old excuses dont hold water. there are no proven cases of shadowy figures on the oil company or government pay roll sneaking around hushing up inventors. Its just an excuse con artist use to get away with trying to bilk people out of there hard earned money and trying to keep it quite so they don't get arrested for fraud.

I truly wish and hope this is not another scam how ever I'm not going to hold my breath, and no money will leave my wallet.

posted on Jun, 11 2007 @ 03:45 PM
Water injection into a four stroke gasoline engine is not new but has been around for decades. I first bought one out of a J C Whitneys catalogue years ago. When It came in I looked at it and said..I can do this myself.

IT actually works in my cauberated 6 cylinder GM Biscayne. It takes some time to get it adjusted correctly. IT mostly is noticable on long trips but then again your best gas milage is on the open road ..not on city stop and go traveling. I can tell this clearly in my driving here sucks up alot of stop and go gas milage.

THe injection works by vacuum pulling the water vapor or a very small stream into the intake manifold where it is vaporized. IF you adjust to much water the motor will begin to stall. All you have to do is make or fabricate sufficient connections to hook up the system. Water is stored in a plastic bottle of sufficient size and mounted in the engine compartment. This is not a problem in my olde Chevy but space may be more difficult to find on todays cars. THe valves doing the water adjustment are fine fish aquarium valves..fine thread. You can even install a bypass valve to dump water back to the bottle for finer adjustment if you are so inclined.
IN the winter time I just added some rubbing alcohol to the water in the bottle.

This does work but it is not a quanutm leap in milage like some are claiming in these miracle cauberators or system modifications. This is simply a adaptation of the principle you observe when driving on very damp days where it seems like you have a few more horsepower due to the density of the ambient air.
As I recall once I got this adjusted correctly it made a difference of about one eighth to a quarter of a tank over a long high speed trip. Not as noticable in around town stop and go driving.

Years ago you could get a series of books in the psuedo underground book market...

Browns Book of Caubarators.

Supressed inventions and how they work

Browns Alcohol motor cookbook.

I have all three books bought years ago. I dont even know if they are even available anymore.

I have thought for years about fabricating a heat exchanger to pre heat gasoline using water as the heating medium...water from the engine water jacket using a coil inside for the gasoline to pass through. Now that I have purchased a wire fed welder this should be easier than the olde stick welding. You just have to use parts which are stout enough and able to survive anti freeze corrosion. Also you have to be aware of the space limitations on todays cars and trucks. Not much room in many of them.

IN Brown's book of caubarators this heating is done with exhaust gases heating the gasoline through heat exchangers in some designs.

I am not sure however that this would work as well on fuel injection verses say..caubuerated engines. My experience has been on caubuerated engines.

However to be fair on the subject ..I also believe that the electronic ignition spark has great potential in helping with this endevour. This is a great invention. Also very versatile to those versed in its workings.
My olde Chevy still has points and condensor and yet it works in this car.

Also the person concerned about heating gasoline...remember ..the flash point of gasoline is much higher that paper. Some 600 to 800 degrees as i recall verses 451 degrees for paper and wood. What you are concerned mostly about is spark in the wrong place. Also a type of relief system for over pressurization would be necessary. If you look at many cauberator designs there is a fine spring relief valve built into them. A bypass dump system might be in order too.

Take a close look at your electric fuel pumps...they dumb the excess pressure back into a line going back into the fuel tank. Nothing complicated about this.

Some intresting posts here,


[edit on 11-6-2007 by orangetom1999]

posted on Jun, 13 2007 @ 11:39 AM
If only you posted this thread a month earlier, we would've seen a reply from him, and probably seen him step up to the challenge.

In the mean time... Here's a few pictures of what I think is a Joe Cell. ( I know the guy who built this one).

I will let you guys know later on where these pictures were posted.

[edit on 13-6-2007 by TheBandit795]

posted on Jun, 14 2007 @ 12:01 AM
You lost me here. I need to know what exactly is a Joe Cell and what does it do??

If possible can you explain the basics of what it is supposed to do or accomplish.


posted on Jun, 14 2007 @ 05:33 AM
I know of a littel additive you can stick in your tank to give you 10-15% boost in economy. Its Acetone in pure strength, all you need is about 75ml per 100 litres fuel.

Now before anyone spruiks off claiming this to be a hoax..I suggest you try it because myself and half a dozen mates have been doing this for years with no damage to any of our engines.

posted on Jun, 14 2007 @ 08:31 AM

Here's all the info you need:
Joe Cell

There are also lots of video's in and with people who have built their Joe Cells.

[edit on 14-6-2007 by TheBandit795]

posted on Jun, 14 2007 @ 10:54 AM

Thanks for the link and the information. I have bookmarket it for later reading and viewing.


posted on Dec, 6 2007 @ 01:41 PM
Shell Oil, in 1973, got 376-mpg. Documents are on my webpage Also, in #13-V are videos of six automobiles fueled only with the components of water.

posted on Dec, 6 2007 @ 01:45 PM
reply to post by mazzroth

I agree, .2-oz/gallon in our 99 Civic improves road mpg by 5mpg.

posted on Aug, 25 2010 @ 03:45 AM
Really? 100mpg carburetor? I want to have one. Is it true or not? Having a carburetor like that is awesome. Imagine long miles of drive. How about it's carburetor metering block?

posted on Apr, 29 2011 @ 08:16 PM
Bumping this cause I wish Beer_Guy would help us all out, but he let us down.

And his original thread is gone too, weird.

posted on Apr, 29 2011 @ 09:49 PM
Crock of BULL.

You can not build a 100mpg carburetor

The problem is you must have the right air fuel mix for any engine.

A modern engine runs on a mixture to a 14.7:1 ratio.

It does not mater how the fuel is metered carburetor, fuel injectors, or star trek transporter.

The mix entering the cylinder must be 14.7:1 ratio.

To high and your car will run rich and will be emitting high hydrocarbons and fail smog checks.

To low and your car will have lean misfires and the fuel will not burn completely and you will have high hydrocarbons and fail smog checks.

How do i know this.

I have a 1988 ford ranger with a 2.3 L engine that has no diagnostic code problems but will not pass smog because of high hydrocarbons

Its been driving me NUTS trying to find the problem that is causing a bad air fuel ratio that the computer can not see.

Ether a injector problem and its running to rich or a very hard to find vacuum leak that is causing a lean misfire.

This is why carburetors are obsolete and car makers have gone to fuel injection.

You can not maintain this perfect 14.7:1 air fuel ratio with a carburetor.
And you can not put any carburetor on any engine and and get a 100mpg and a air fuel ratio of 14.7:1

ANYONE that claims you can does not understand the basics of how a engine runs,

If you add hydrogen (brown gas) you change the 14.7:1 air fuel ratio and will run rich and fail smog testing even with modern fuel injection because the computer can not adjust to a gas it can not read or meter.
And a carbureted engine can not because it has no computer adjust to the 14.7:1 air fuel ratio and will always run rich or lean, smog check fail.

posted on Apr, 30 2011 @ 10:39 AM
reply to post by ANNED

Agreed 100%, but what intrigue me about this guy was the fact that in his original thread there was a process of water/hydrogen or some type of a proprietary splitting, hence hydrogen being used, in combination with gasoline.

I consider myself a skeptic on this subject and have heard allot of BS on ATS, but when I talked with him he had laid out some pretty interesting and convincing concepts, but when I mentioned I would like to come and see him he did not respond. I also have enough knowledge and hands on to understand combustion engines and hydrogen as a fuel source, so when he presented me with his basic concepts via U2U in 2007 or 2006 I was stunned and wanted to see more.

I really wish his original thread was here on ATS, I can't see why it would be removed because I don't remember anything that violated the T&C of ATS. What's odd is his other threads are still here.

Elevatedone if your reading this can you check to see what happened to Beer_Guys original thread? Thanks

edit on 30-4-2011 by Realtruth because: (no reason given)

posted on May, 7 2011 @ 08:03 PM

Originally posted by seagull
Just discovered the thread. Definitly interested. Who wouldn't be? With gas rapidly approaching $4.00 a gallon in my area. I'd be willing to find out more.

EDIT: Hmm - I read the rest of the thread. Need proof.
edit on 7-5-2011 by mirageofdeceit because: (no reason given)

posted on May, 7 2011 @ 08:11 PM
I have a question, because this was a concept tried on a big-rig with a turbo...which was already established...but, just a carb is not enough IMO, you need a turbo to recirculate the vapors.

I forgot to mention that it was a logging co. owner whom I worked for on his property-and this info I just posted is actually here-say...

But, I am also a retired certified diesel mechanic/drivetrain specialist...
edit on (5/7/1111 by loveguy because: (no reason given)

posted on May, 7 2011 @ 08:26 PM
It's 404'd now..

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