Angry One,

Your link does not seem to be working. I'm wondering what the connection between WIFI and an EMP may be. I look forward to following your link.

Becker

To answer Becker44, WiFi is made possible due to radio waves. Radio waves are a form of electromagnetic radiation.

I'm not exactly sure how well this would block out an EMP burst, since WiFi output of radio waves is far inferior to any electromagnetic radiation put out by a nuclear explosion. Plus a nuclear explosion emits nuetron and gamma rays rather than radio waves; which if I recall correctly, penetrate surfaces much easier than radio waves.


[edit on 4-4-2007 by bluesquareapple]

I have personally found that aluminum foil can either amplify or block WiFi signals, depending on how you use it. If you put the aluminum foil between the WiFi router/emitter and the object recieving the signal, it will block it out. But if you put tinfoil behind the object (especially in a concave or parabolic shape), it will enhance the signal, usually by at least 1 bar of strength. I don't know if that will work with EMPs at all, but since we're on the topic of WiFi I thought I'd mention it.

Thick solid lead walls will protect against nearly anything, but there are obviously some dangers associated with that.

And no, I'm not one of those aluminum deflector beanie wearing nuts .

I would think if you figure out the percentage of a wifi signal to electromagnetic radiation like .00025% then you could use this number as a catylist to end the equation as to how much paint you would have to use.

Why use Paint?

Metallic Window screen, especially COPPER if you can find it, is a bit more effective. Tin Foil works as well.....

The Paint will do nothing for the WINDOWS... even for WIFI.

The EMP shield needs to be 'continuous' and all seams 'bonded' together.

Even a hairline crack or hole will allow EMP to enter your "cage" and destroy your equipment.

If you REALLY need to protect something from EMP, I suggest a Military Metal Box , or crate ( such as what MISSILES come packed in ).

They are continuiously welded at all the seams, and have an O ring between the hinged lid and the bottom of the "crate".. Where this O ring is, you need to fabricate a "Window Screen STRAW" all rolled up neatly, to SMASH IN BETWEEN THE LID AND THE BOTTOM OF THE BOX TO MAKE A COMPLETE BONDED SEAL. Think "Electrically Conductive" between the crate top and bottom, even scraping or wire brushing PAINT off to complete the seal.

THEN seal this seam with metal airconditioning tape. ( after you pack your electronics inside as detailed below )

When you put your electronics inside the box, put a layer of rubber, or even cardboard Down first, to insulate the metal bottom, top and sides from any 'spark gap' electrical contact with your electronics.

Then remove all antennas from your electonics, remove the batteries, hard drives, memory chips AND POWER CORDS from each item.

Wrap each item in rubber or cardboard FIRST. THEN wrap each item in aluminum foil, being sure not to RIP the foil anywhere. Now re-wrap that in another layer of cardboard, to protect the inner foil. NOW re-wrap all that with another layer of FOIL including a short, stranded 10 gauge BONDING WIRE attatched to each 'outer' layer of foil.

Set each piece of electronics carefully inside the crate, and connect EACH bonding wire from each piece of electronics to every other piece of electronics in the "crate".

You have now insulated each item internally from EMP and you have also created a "field" for any stray electrical pulse to EVENLY distribute throughout the ENTIRE inside compartment, ontop the OUTER layer of foil.

********* Here is where the DEBATE starts ***********

1. DO I GROUND all the internal electronics, with their outer layer of foil, to a WET earth ground, outside the "Crate" ? ( including the outer surface the "crate" itself)

OR .....

2. DO I NOT GROUND the internal components to an outside source. ( and DO NOT Ground the outer surface of the "crate" )

********* It really depends on WHO you Believe **********

I personally think that GROUNDING will actually act as a Lightening ROD, attracting EMP. Its SO FAST... Much FASTER than Lightening, and MUCH MUCH HIGHER voltages that even 'lightening arrstors' for HAM antennas are NOT FAST ENOUGH to 'shunt' the stray electrical pulse to even a PROPER 'WET' deep GROUND. Even a very short distance is improbable.

I PERSONALLY go with the "FLOATING GROUND" theory, like the tires of an auto insulating it from the street.

I personally BOND each component on the 'outer layer' of foil ( inside the "crate ", but I DO NOT GROUND the internal components or even the outer 'shell' of the metal "crate" to an outside WET earth Grounding rod.

By 'bonding' the internal components, you create a 'potential' for all of the stray pulses, (that gets through your OUTER crate), to evenly flow over the entire surface area of all theOUTER foil, not just 'one corner' of your HAM or shortwave rig. This should help to dissipate the charge over a wider area internally inside the crate, to prevent damage to select areas of a single item.

DO NOT store rolled up cords inside this "Crate". Do not store wires over 30 inches inside this crate. Do not store antennas inside this crate.

As a final step, after making sure all external seams and holes in the "crate" are sealed, perhaps you could set this crate INSIDE a vehicle, like a covered TRUCK bed, INSULATED fro the METAL Truck bed.






s

I have an EMP question...are DC power generating systems affected? by this I mean if I build a wind turbine will the EMP affect the stator coils or battery storage and render it all useless?

Ok I have a question.Don't everyone laugh it comes from a hollywood movie.In Broken Arrow They set off a nuke to cause a emp blast and right before the blast John Travolta has everyone turn off everything electronic/vehicles to save it from the emp blast.So the question is if you know a emp blast is coming does turning of the electronic equipment save it at all?

othello

Unplugging electronics DEFINATELY helps.

The overhead power wires that we all drive by every day COLLECT EMP and distribute it throughout anywhere the power lines go.

Antennas do the same thing.

Any wire , or power cord OVER 30 inches long will do the same thing.

ANY Coiled WIRE, like an extension cord rolled up, not even plugged in will collect EMP.

The tests that I have seen with Vehicles that were tested were all running when they were zapped....


BUT... that does not necesarialy mean that by "powering down" you will be safe.

To me, ANY conductor of electrical energy will collect EMP.

This means the little metal BOX that your car ignition computer sits in, the metal box of you home computer, the electronic circuit boards of the plastic framed TV, the metal in your alternator housing the regulator, or the metal in the box on an external regulator, will all collect the charge, and overamp the circuitry. ( fry it ) ON or OFF....

The only things that I KNOW are EMP proof are OLD electronics "solid State", or TUBE type radios, or specifically hardened Military electronics.

Just powering down, is simply not enough, but it sure wont hurt...

Be sure to at least unplug it, but I really dont think that thats even close to being sufficient.

I also KNOW that "Lightening Arrestors" for HAM antennas are not fast enough to shunt the EMP to a ground rod... the EMP just JUMPS right past the Lightening arrestor, straight to your radio.


Now that should give you an idea of the POWER that we are talking about here. A LOT more powerful and faster than Lightening.

Best Regards,

Blitzkreigen

I believe damage is done from the inductance of the field collapse from any coil. In simpler terms it works much like a power transformer. Energy [emp] is emitted and passes through collecting coils [transformers, contactors, relays etc] When this field collapses the energy is released and reverses polarity in the device. This is a slingshot type effect, and often coil collapse energy is a stronger but shorter burst of energy. [energy is not created but transformed]. Thus any item containing wiring or coils of any sort will induce a magnetic field that collapses and sends the current backwards throughout the device, often at a faster stronger pulse. This in turn will fry your components. Many lead acid batteries are of a coil type construction and will discharge and or reverse polarity through this process. My understanding anyway. I guess i need to study up on emp more before I spout off at the mouth.

respectfully

reluctantpawn

I think the best way to defend against EMP is to have everything disconnected and to put it in a faraday cage, its not perfect but its the best defence going against EMP.
With time and money I dare say you could build a strong faraday cage around a room in your house and use it as a safe haven for your electrical items.

Hope this helps