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Random Survival Tips

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posted on Dec, 18 2006 @ 01:39 AM
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Okay, here's a tip, lizards are easy food to catch if you know how. My bush method involves finding cordage and tying a good snare.

First, cordage. This is usually any unrolled and unworked plant fiber. In the tropics i'd use some strings from palm fronds, in the desert, it's the spine of grasses. It should be stiff, and taper, preferably from a solid stick to just a fiber or two. I find all kinds of good material wherever i find lizrads.

To make a noose, soften the very end of the fibers, just enough to tie a small loop of any sort that will hold, the knot type isn't important, the important thing is that you have a little tiny loop at the skinny end, this loop should be the diameter of a pencil at most, and the smaller the better. Now, "thread the needle" by pulling the rest of the stiff cord through the loop, forming the noose. Depending on how much of a stalk/stick you have left you can use it as it is. If you only have short cordage, take your noose and tie it to a stick with some of the same cordage. Now you have a lethal lizardcatcher that can produce a pound of lizardmeat in an hour or less in target rich environments.

To use it, you need to be smarter than a lizard. Fortunately, lizards aren't too smart, i mean look at the IQ of our reptilian overlords for proof. But lizards are fast. Whatever you do, don't race lizard, you'll probably lose. If you're realy good, you can hadn catch, but that requires lots of practice to get good enough at it to make i worth it.

Find a lizard sunning on a rock or sitting still somwewhere. Carefully sneak up to the unsuspecting lizard with your instrument of death, until you're within range to lasso the lizard's head. Slowly being the noose towards the lizard, steadily, smoothly, and slowly. You'll get a feel for how fast you can go once you start catching or scaring lizards. Yuo can be fast enough to be efficient, but you don't want to swat at 'em.

Coming from behinf with the stick is the best form, but any angle you can get before the critter figures it out will work. Slip the noose slowly and gently over the lizard's head. Not too slow though, just slide it loosely down to the base of the neck, and give a little tug, like you're setting the hook in a fish. Once you tug, raise the lizard off the ground and keep it hanging till you can grab it and get it free.

Alternately, if your fishing trip turns into a survival trip, use the rod with a loop of monofilament line tied on the same way. An old fishing rod with some spiderwire attached makes a nice setup also, and is what i started using before i got the grass trick perfected.

I can tell you this works, as i've been collecting all kinds of lizards like this since i was probably 10 years old, especially the hard to catch skinks.

Hawaiian sling, basically it's a spear with some sort of elastic attached to the back end. For as much fishing as i was doing, i went with an aluminium, screw on type single pivoting barb, 6' length. Dive shops sell a cheaper version, basically a fiberglass dowel with a screw on tip and the rubber.

The rubber used on commercial units is surgical tubing.

Now, if you could just go to the store and buy one, you wouldn't need it for immediate survival.

To make one, all you'd have to do is make a nice solid spear between 4 and 8' long, any shorter, and it's inaccurate and longer that that it's unweildy. There's tons of info on the web on making fish spears, just follow the instructions and make it nice and straight. Try to keep some weight at the tip end to make it "fly" better. Next, cut the rubber band out of your underwear and tie it securely to the end, making a loop at the end of the spear.

To shoot the spear, put the loop aroubd your thum on your shooting hand,and then grasp the spear shaft. Slide the spear backwards with your other hand till the band is stretched out far enough, and grab it, holding then tension against the thumb loop with the same hand.

Maneuver the spear tip till it's lined up with your prey, and when you're lined up, just open your hand. The spear will slingshot forward and throuhg your prey if you're successful. Optimum range is out to 2 feet, the closer the better. After 2' you better have sniper aim and good technique. Taking a fish 10' away isn't out of the question if it's slow moving, large, and you're a ninja with your sling. I once took a fish at nearly 10, on a day with 6-8' visibility. A cowfish close to shore, i spotted it, didn't have my sling ready, but by the time i got loaded it was just swiming out of visible range. I estiamted direction through the murk,used an arm thrust and release, and launched the spear into the void in front of me, sliding the loop to my fingertips for max reach. To my surprise,i nailed the cowfish and got an easy meal on a crappy day to dive. I didn't feel like hunting the reef in 6' vis that day, so i just went back and tossed it in the fire and had dinner.

Another tip: cowfish are tasty, even as ugly as they are.

I've used lots of high tech spearguns, single and dual band, co2 powered, even one that fired powder nailgun type cartridges, and after trying all the "high end" stuff, with all the bells and whistles, i still prefer hunting with a good sling, i can use skill and outfish the guy with a $2000 carbon fiber pneumatic laser sighted autoreel speargun with my stick and rubber band on any day, the worse conditions the better, my advantage. I've got a LOT of hunt/dive time in, on some of the worst days, pounding surf and howling gales, so for me it's ridiculously easy anyway, like visiting a deli counter and pointing at what i want. When i got certified, (and i haven't dove since i've been legal) we did a beach dive on a day that got real bad, suspended sand, 1' vis, crashing surf and confused currents. I ended up rescuing my dive instructor, finding all the gear she lost, and carrying all her gear for a mile down the beach into the wind (gear including two aquascooters with heavy ass all day batteries) because she was exhausted. For me it was just a standard crappy day diving, but for her it was probably the worst she's eve seen. She actually lost her scooter, and i went back out and found it after she was safe.




posted on Dec, 19 2006 @ 07:12 PM
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Beaver tail is also very high in vitamin A so eat it in small portions.
A handy way to start a quick fire is to carry vaseline soaked cotton balls in a small bag or container. They catch fire quickly. I keep a small batch next to my fireplace to get a fire going quickly when I come home after work. Also carry them camping with a spark maker. (just a piece of hard wire against a piece of rough metal. Whole thing weighs less than an ounce and is inherently waterproof and catches/starts fire everytime.



posted on Dec, 20 2006 @ 05:00 PM
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How to make a fire with a chocolate bar and a soda can.






The key is the bottom of the soda can. The can isn't shiny enough to start the fire so thats where the chocolate comes in. So, simply break off a piece of chocolate and use it to polish up the can bottom. (Any kind of chocolate will do) Smear some chocolate onto the bottom of the can and rub it with the wrapper. In about a 1/2 hour to an hour it will have a mirror like finish and if there is sunlight focus the focal point onto some tinder and after a short time it will be smoldering. Then transfer it to a tinder bundle and blow it into flame.




posted on Dec, 20 2006 @ 07:50 PM
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Originally posted by Terapin
..Someone smart tell me why Polar bears never eat Penguins and you win a cookie..


Because Polar bears can't undo the plastic wrappers!




posted on Dec, 22 2006 @ 01:28 AM
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Know your environment and adopt to it.
If your in the outback learn how to treat the likes of snake bits and have suitable clothing anything that is made in China probably isn't suitable. Stay covered even if the temp is 40 degrees Celsiuses that way you avoid the likes of insect bikes.
Ensure that your equipment and other supply's are suited to the environment.

The last thing you need is the clothes rotting on your back this happened to Diggers in Vietnam.

[edit on 22-12-2006 by xpert11]



posted on Dec, 22 2006 @ 11:53 PM
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I believe silk is made in China and it's an excellent material for insulating.

If SHTF and guns are outlawed, start hunting all the stray (or running loose) cats and dogs. Eat them first. They'll be competing for your food sources. Also owls or any other predatory animal. Leaves less competition for your food sources and most small predators can be killed with a slingshot.



posted on Dec, 23 2006 @ 05:19 AM
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Offering another perspective pets could be used to keep moral high and dogs could assist in hunting for food rural areas providing they have been trained before they are required. Dogs could also be used to track people and guard your supply's and shelter.

[edit on 23-12-2006 by xpert11]



posted on Dec, 23 2006 @ 02:02 PM
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I am a survival instructor and the key to ovecoming adversity in any survival situation is beating the seven enemies of survival/
1. Pain- pain is the first thing that should be adressed in any survival situation, if u feel pain try and fix it befor it gets worse.
2. Fear- all kinds of things start getting to you when ur in the woods, little noises and stuff starts freaking u out, also phobias can come into play. it is important to keep busy so u don't think about every little noise and slight movement.
3. bordom. U have to keep ur self occupied if u get bored it is easier to give up and u can never give up in a survival situation.
4. lonleness. loneleness can give u a horrible horrible feeling in the woods. the only way to overcome this is to make a friend."like Wilson"
5. Hunger. now whats edible in the area u are traveling, it is unreasonable to attempt to carry enough food to spend a long period of time in the wilderness.
6.Thirst. always take enough water and always have a way of purifing water.
7.cold always wear layers and always wear enough layers for the enviroment. and as a foot note wear propper foot wear. Take care of your Feet!!



posted on Dec, 23 2006 @ 04:42 PM
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Fire without anything but a knife, shoelace, wood.

Bow and drill technique!

basic components: Handle, drill, fireboard, bow, and tinder

most likely you will have a knife and shoelace on you.

the wood you use is:
hard wood for the handle IE oak, iron wood, mesquite, hickory.

medium wood for the drill IE, saguaro rib, pine, apple, hickoryetc.

softwood for the fireboard IE century plant(agave) cedar, juniper, or pine

green limb for the bow.

assembly: handle you want it to be a size able to fit in your hand. wittle out a small "pilot" hole approx diameter of drill

drill you want maybe about 12 to 18 inches in length maybe an inch in diameter straight as you can find.wittle one end into a sharp point andthe other you want kinda blunted and rounded

fire board at least the length of your foot you want it as flat as possible wittle out a small pilot hole in the center then cut a "v" notch from the side of the board to the hole for Oxygen.

bow you want a green stick about the length of your arm. bend it and tie your shoelace to each end make sure it is not too tight.

now find some tinder or shredded bark, place under v notch in fireboard. take your drill and wrap shoelace around it place blunt end on fire board and sharp end into handle. now with a sawing motion move the drill back and forth. you should see smoke appearing. dump the coal onto the tinder. well the rest is up to you.

This method really works!!!!! I have been successful every time . make sure your drill and fireboard are dry!! I listed woods you can find in the Arizona desert and in a pine forest. Substitute with whatever is in your area.



posted on Dec, 29 2006 @ 10:15 PM
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Knowing what your gear can take and having confidence in your equipment is invaluable in any survival situation. If u have confidence in your equipment that is one less thing you have to worry about. and Never waste your time eating mushrooms. there is not enough nutrients in them to justify the risk.



posted on Jan, 1 2007 @ 09:18 PM
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Should you choose to remain in an urban area rather then withdraw to a Rural Area ensure that you have a water tank or some other means in place to gather and store water. Local council regulations could be a problem in some places you cant place a stake in the ground without getting a permit.



posted on Jan, 1 2007 @ 10:57 PM
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If you stick a nine volt battery to a new brillo pad, it will ignite.



posted on Jan, 2 2007 @ 10:50 AM
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The mushroom issue depends on where you live. Around here we have a few mushrooms that are plenty, easy to spot and eatable with simple boiling...



posted on Jan, 2 2007 @ 07:29 PM
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Feel like keeping your face shaved after the Fit hits the Shan? For ages, man has used olive oil as a shaving lubricant. It works very well, leaves your skin soft and is far cheaper than a can of shaving cream. It is also easier to store and has a multitude of uses.



posted on Jan, 2 2007 @ 11:26 PM
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As a thumb rule: Don't shave, unless you are 100% sure of your hygiene level is up for it. In summer you expose your skin to infections and in winter shaving makes your face freeze more easier (opens up the skin). For these reasons we never shaved during training ops, when i was in the army.



posted on Jan, 4 2007 @ 07:50 PM
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Every part of a pine tree is edible or extremely useful in someway.



posted on Jan, 5 2007 @ 02:57 PM
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Do not eat the liver of a seal. The large amounds of Vitamin E can kill you.



posted on Jan, 9 2007 @ 08:25 AM
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Silver birtch bark lights very easly - sparks from an empty disposable lighter are more than enough, even if lit, it just falls off the tree and lights even when wet.

Burns quick tho, good for starting fires drunken games etc.

Think silver birtch is a UK name, don't know US



posted on Jan, 9 2007 @ 05:29 PM
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Originally posted by JamesMcMahn
Every part of a pine tree is edible or extremely useful in someway.


I suddenly have a new-found respect for pine trees...


Let us hope this information never needs to be used....:
If you have a deep wound, deep enough to require stitches, find spider webs. (Just grab a stick and start collecting.) They're great for keeping the wound open so that it heals from the inside out. (Nothing worse than allowing it to heal from the outside and sealing the germs in!)

Spider webs in general are good for wounds -- Arachnicillin?


It's not the webs themselves that supposedly protect against microbial attack. It's a chemical coating on the silk, much like the sticky coating for prey capture, which is released from one of many glands as the spider spins the web. Arachnologist Rainer Foelix notes in his book, Biologie der Spinnen, that the coating may protect old and abandoned webs from fungal and bacterial attack.



I've also heard that grass can be used (provided it hasn't been chemically treated) if you can't find any webs - gather a bunch, chew it to a pulp and put it in the wound.


Edited to add: Sea salt is *awesome* for cleaning wounds. I've used it when I've gotten new piercings -- the wound heals much quicker, and doesn't hurt as much (sometimes doesn't swell, although arguably that depends on your body's reactions to such endeavors).
I've used neosporin, soapy water, even A&D... sea salt still reigns supreme. AND you don't have to worry about its shelf life!


[edit on 9-1-2007 by Diseria]


CX

posted on Jan, 11 2007 @ 06:29 AM
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Keep some salt tablets in your kit. Many people learn all about how to get food and water efficiently, but without salt your body can come up against all sorts of problems. Cramps, dehydration to name a couple.


Another tip which may sound obvious, but get out there and practise!

It's ok knowing half of this stuff and remembering it, but it can be very different when you have to do it in the wild, in the dark, when you are hungry, tired and cold.

I try to get out once a week, even just for an overnighter. I try and go as deep in the woods as possible, the peace and quiet is quite nice actualy, so i use it as a break from things, a spot of camping but also with a view to learn and put into practise some of the tips here.

Like one week, i'll set a few tasks to concentrate on, for example perfecting shelter building and cordage. Another time it will be fire and water procurement, or maybe spend a bit of time with someone who knows the flora and fungi in your area well, they can be a wealth of information.

Just a couple of things at a time, but master them.

I started out taking a fair bit of kit with me, it almost looked like i was attempting Everest lol, but over time i have whittled it down.

I always take a notepad and pen with me for noting down any new tips i've learnt whilst out in the woods. What worked, what did'nt? What kit did i have with me that i really did'nt use? This only weighs me down.

After a while you should be able to take out the very bare minimum and still be comfy. Just make sure you stay safe whilst learning. Don't leave plan an overnighter in a cold environment and leave your sleeping bag and tarps/similar if you are not proficient in shelter building. You'll wake up dead!

Remember you are only practising this stuff and it's not for real yet. Don't put yourself at risk for no reason.

Whilst you are able to, plan risky learning goals carefully. If you set yourself a goal to spend a week in the wild without food from home, have a back up in case you can't find or catch any. Maybe be near enough to home that you can abort your learning week and go get some grub. Identify what went wrong and learn from it while you have that luxury!

CX.





[edit on 11/1/07 by CX]



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