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Infrared Cameras~Seeing UFO's

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posted on Sep, 21 2006 @ 09:03 PM
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I remember I watched a video on here who used infrared cameras to view the skies during the daylight and saw more UFO sightings...does anyone have any information or success with this? As I was thinking of buying one to test out...




posted on Sep, 21 2006 @ 10:14 PM
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Originally posted by RetinoidReceptor
I remember I watched a video on here who used infrared cameras to view the skies during the daylight and saw more UFO sightings...does anyone have any information or success with this? As I was thinking of buying one to test out...


I've been using two differant IR wavelength filters with pretty good success. In 3 out of 4 cases I'm unable to see them by the naked eye or by my 15x70 binoculars.

Here's an example of one I caught in May of this year.

www.megaupload.com...

The only thing I would say is to go with the lower wavelengths as the darker the skies get the harder it is to see with them.. Also don't go with a cheap plastic lense, go with ground glass. Both of mine are german ground optics.



posted on Sep, 21 2006 @ 11:50 PM
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I don't see any picture from that link.



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 12:01 AM
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It's a video. you have to download it from the link. Look in the upper right corner and put in the letters it tells you to. Then you wait 50 seconds before you can download it.

JohnnyAnonymous,
What kind of camera do you use?



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 02:38 AM
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Originally posted by SearchEngine
It's a video. you have to download it from the link. Look in the upper right corner and put in the letters it tells you to. Then you wait 50 seconds before you can download it.

JohnnyAnonymous,
What kind of camera do you use?


Depends on the situation. If it's daytime, I stick with the S-VHS (the two Panasonics in the middle right) for ambient location recordings on wide-angle for a perspective of both me taping/reporting and then I use the two (2) Sony VX-3 (3-chip) cameras as
they have really superior broadcast quality for event captures with very high shutter speeds. I also have the Sony VX-5000 pro Hi-8 (It looks like a S-Vhs camera on the middle left), that rivals many S-Vhs but is limited to being only 7 lux and above, so not great in low-light situations. The bottom two Sony's are both "Digital-8" cameras, one is a DCR-TRV720 with 20x optical-450x digital (with a 2x converter on). The other Digital-8 is a DCR-TRV510 with 20x optical-360x digital (with a 5x converter on). Both cameras will record in Hi-8 and in the better quality Digital-8 format using the same tape medium. Both of these cameras have the largest flip-out viewscreen (4 inches) which is really nice compared to all these little screens out on the market. They both also feature the NiteShot and Super-NiteShot feature with the DCR-TRV510 with 3 stages of niteshot opening the iris even more for really low light conditions. They both also have anti-shake stabilization (as does the VX-3 pro Hi-8's).

So if your looking for an overall use camera, I'd go with the smaller Digital-8's as they have superior "0" lux and great niteshot capabilities, and filters are plentiful for 37mm threads.

Many people ask me why I don't switch to some of the newer digital mediums, and there's several reasons why I don't. But the main reason is that I like a full featured camera that allows me to choose how to shoot an event in manual, and many of these newer cameras are more of a point and shoot with limited manual controls. Of course all of my cameras have "auto" features too, but I'm an old school former broadcaster that likes to have complete control over my events/productions I'm shooting.

Before buying any camera, I'd go on eBay to see what they're going for (regardless of what camera your leaning towards). Also check out the prices on filters and optical converters as you'll want to stay as close in the optical range without going into the digital range. Very few ufologist use the digital feature,, we generally all just shut it off (disabled in the menu section) so to keep the capture as clean as possible. We compensate with optical multipliers which come in various multiplications, 1.5x, 2.0x, 3.0x, 5.0x and even 10x. Lets say you only add a 2.0x optical converter to a existing 20x camera, this now means that you have 40x optical system... Make sure you know the thread size of the filter and camera-lens thread before purchasing as there are a number of differant sizes...

If you have any other questions, feel free to PM (private message) me.

Good Luck, keep your eyes towards the skies!
Johnny




[edit on 22-9-2006 by JohnnyAnonymous]

[edit on 22-9-2006 by JohnnyAnonymous]



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 02:55 AM
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All of the above cameras have IR (Infrared) Filters of numerous wavelengths. I'm not in a position to purchase a FLIR system ($8000.oo - $44,000.oo US Dollars) that would be of any good for my kind of UFO research. Even the lower cost thermal imager's are only good for about 100 feet, so what good would that be?

The combination of nitevision with an Infrared filter will provide excellent results without busting your pocketbook.



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 05:10 AM
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There is a thread here on ATS devoted to IR filming of UFO's. Have a look here:

www.abovetopsecret.com...'

[edit on 22-9-2006 by Acharya]



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 02:14 PM
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Originally posted by JohnnyAnonymous
www.megaupload.com...


i found that to be quite fascinating, thanx 4 sharing... the first time i watched it i looked away for a sec and then was like, did that just change direction? lol... i had to watch it a few times... that was definitely something worth posting here... do you have anymore footage you could share with us?



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 05:58 PM
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Originally posted by Acharya
There is a thread here on ATS devoted to IR filming of UFO's. Have a look here:

www.abovetopsecret.com...'

[edit on 22-9-2006 by Acharya]


Yes a lot of a great posts in there.. too bad there hasn't been any follow up posts.


Originally posted by m3rlz

Originally posted by JohnnyAnonymous
www.megaupload.com...


i found that to be quite fascinating, thanx 4 sharing... the first time i watched it i looked away for a sec and then was like, did that just change direction? lol... i had to watch it a few times... that was definitely something worth posting here... do you have anymore footage you could share with us?


It does appear that after shooting upwards, it then heads off at a 40 degree arc change to the right. I had seen this 'spheroid shaped object' originally drop down into the cloud. I hadn't been recording at the time and wasn't really sure if I had really seen what I thought I'd seen go into the cloud, so I decided to start recording and slowly skimmed around the edges of the cloud hoping it would poke it's head out again. After several minutes it did, and then started it's ascent. I should mention that I had a 3x multiplier threaded on also.

I do have other footage that I will dig up and post. Allow me awhile to dig thru my archives...

Meanwhile, to show the advantages of even just having niteshot on a camera, here's some footage that I'm sure many of you have already seen. The jury is still out on what this is, and that is not the point of the discussion here. But there is a segment about 3/4 of the way where I turn off the camcorders internal "NiteShot" and the image disappears, but once the nitevision is turned back on, your able to see the debris once again. This is not utilizing a external Infrared filter but simply the IR thats built-in to the camcorder. I can say honestly that the use of a filter in the 70-80nm wavelength may have produced more detail, and I kick myself that I didnt run in and screw one on.... But I really wasn't expecting anything spectacular to happen. And I will apologise now for all the wooahs and holy mackerals... I'm someone that doesn't believe in or use vulgar verbage.

www.hbccufo.org...



posted on Sep, 22 2006 @ 06:18 PM
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we have talked about this before here on ATS

A little test to do is get your digi camera on film mode then point the TV remote control at the camera and press any button. My sony digital picks it up excellent



posted on Sep, 23 2006 @ 09:39 PM
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Originally posted by thesaint
we have talked about this before here on ATS

A little test to do is get your digi camera on film mode then point the TV remote control at the camera and press any button. My sony digital picks it up excellent


Yes, thats true. While I was a consultant for the now defunct Electronics stores, (the Good Guys), this was a demonstration we would use for the customers to show how sensitive the CCD and Cmos Cameras were. Although this is a differant wavelength of what were discussing here.

The signal emitted by an IR remote control contains two parts, the control pulses and a modulated carrier wave. The control pulses are used to modulate the carrier, a popular modulation frequency being 36 and 42KHz. The signal is radiated by an IR diode, typical wavelengths in the 850 and 950 nm region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Although this light is invisible to the human eye, it can be seen as a bright spot with a camcorder or digital camera.

What we are discussing is utilizing a filter in addition to the camcorder to block out and record only within a narrow wavelength of 700nm to 850nm, (I originally said to try a filter in the 70-80nm range, sorry, forgot to add the extra "0" in my rush typing). There are other filters available, but beyond the 850nm range I've not experienced any success... This could all be a coincidence tho and just not have anything to capture in the areas I was visiting with other researchers... There are no set standards, and I'm only relating my own personal experience after 5 years use with Infrared filtering with Camcorders. I have used "IR" before that initial time period with still and digital cameras and had always wanted to try it with the video medium since Videography has been my forte' for 25+ years.

One thing I'd like to add is that the quality of your recording will be quite "noisy" and pixelated as it blocks out the other wavelegth of light being captured. But it's a trade off of course to get something on tape that you normally might not be able to capture. In the 5 years of using additional filters, I've been very pleased with my results. I'm including a link to eBay of external 'screw-on' filters and a link of a capture from this last April. The object appeared to be playing 'peek-a-boo with me as it would dart up and down behind a tree numerous times, then finally it did the same behind some branches. You'll need to focus your attention to the middle right section of the branches to barely see it after it drops down the last time from above.

eBay link to IR Filters:

IR Filter link

Keep in mind that you need to know your cameras thread size which will be denoted with a "MM" behind it, dont confuse that with "NM" which will be behind the filters wavelength range... It may also say something like "RM90" or "R72" which means it'a 900nm and a 720nm Infrared filter.. The "R72" Hoya filter is an excellent filter by the way. Any lens grounded with the highly respected Schott glass is an excellent choice too (as in M&K optics and filters).


The link below is to a 6meg video file of an object captured with a 750nm filter behind a tree:

www.megaupload.com...

Of course I don't need to say that both captures posted here are copyrighted, so please don't repost them on YouTube or Google (or other sites), thank you for the respect.

Keep your eyes towards the skies!
Johnny


[edit on 23-9-2006 by JohnnyAnonymous]

[edit on 23-9-2006 by JohnnyAnonymous]



posted on Sep, 24 2006 @ 09:32 AM
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Inspired by this thread I bought a Sony DCR-HC94 Handycam camcorder yesterday. Both Nightview and Nightview Plus seem to work quite nicely in daytime, now all I need to do is order a good Infrared filer. These guys seems to have som promising lenses for our purpose I think:

www.kaya-optics.com...

But why does some IR filters cost less than 10$ and others 50$ and more? What are the diffrences?


[edit on 24-9-2006 by Acharya]



posted on Sep, 24 2006 @ 05:24 PM
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Originally posted by Acharya
Inspired by this thread I bought a Sony DCR-HC94 Handycam camcorder yesterday. Both Nightview and Nightview Plus seem to work quite nicely in daytime, now all I need to do is order a good Infrared filer. These guys seems to have som promising lenses for our purpose I think:

www.kaya-optics.com...

But why does some IR filters cost less than 10$ and others 50$ and more? What are the diffrences?


I've personally have never heard of Kaya.

As to your query on price, most of the gound 'glass' optics are going to cost much more
than the plastic lense. On all my glass IR filter purchases I've spent anywhere from $35.00 to $80.00 per item. Some used, some new.

The old addage that you get what you pay for might apply here. I have a friend that spent a ton of money on a 3 chip Camcorder, then went down to Wal-Mart and bought a cheap $60.00 tripod. Thats like having a $5.000.oo audio system and a $300.oo set of speakers.... He always wonders why my captures seem more fluid and less jerky than his.

I'm not saying that you have to pay a ton of money to get quality, but it does pay to do the research, and I've also never had a problem with buying 2nd-hand items either to keep my cost within a budget. If I can get the quality I want at half the cost soley because it's a used item,, I have no problem with that... besides, who am I trying to impress, myself?

Back to Kaya filters
I did notice that in one segment at Kaya it stipulated that little or no light works best with their filter... This may be cause for concern as your normal niteshot will work just fine during the night,, what we want to do is capture the ones during the daytime,
and thats why a good IR in the 700nm to 850nm range seems to work best... (based on my own personal experiences and three other researchers that I've worked with).

Scroll to the bottom of this link:
www.kaya-optics.com...

Added Tip for capturing:
Also I'd keep your shutter speed at 5000 to 10,000 of a second. This will help capture the very fast objects with more detail and less blur, and isn't a clean shot/capture what we want anyway?

You'll have to keep us posted as to your results...

Keep Your Eyes to the Skies.
Johnny



posted on Sep, 24 2006 @ 05:52 PM
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I'm sorry, forgot to say "Congrats" on the new camcorder purchase Acharya... was an unintenional oversight on my part...

Great feature on that particular camcorder is the Carl Zeiss F/1.8-2.9 lense,,, great optics!

Keep your Eyes Towards the Skies!
Johnny



posted on Sep, 24 2006 @ 06:38 PM
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kick ass exploding ufo movie JA...

that rocked...



posted on Sep, 25 2006 @ 01:52 PM
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JA,


i have 2 questions:
- the distance to the objects?
You could use 2 camcorders to get the parallax effect or simply set up a mirror in the same frame and calculate it by hands.
- have you tried to interact with em?
i know sounds crazy but i would never stop on observing. the first thing i'd try is to point a lasersight from a toy store at it and see what happens.

oh and could someone up that video to video.google.com or some other feasible place?
i can't get the thing as it says

All download slots (100) assigned to your country (Russian Federation) are in use.



posted on Sep, 25 2006 @ 05:51 PM
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Originally posted by krif
JA,


i have 2 questions:
- the distance to the objects?
You could use 2 camcorders to get the parallax effect or simply set up a mirror in the same frame and calculate it by hands.
- have you tried to interact with em?
i know sounds crazy but i would never stop on observing. the first thing i'd try is to point a lasersight from a toy store at it and see what happens.

oh and could someone up that video to video.google.com or some other feasible place?
i can't get the thing as it says

All download slots (100) assigned to your country (Russian Federation) are in use.


If by the term "parallax effect" you are refering to "Pre-Trigonometry", the answer is that when we are with other researcher's we do our best to "triangulate" the location of these phenomena events the best we can with the equipment we've pieced together. Keep in mind that we are basicly 'just slightly' better equiped than the average 'armchair ufo enthusiast'. In many cases we are are at the mercy of whatever timeframe and/or schedule of these events, and it's all a gamble of luck and educated guesses, and we spend 100's of more hours searching than we actually get in capturing an event.

In my attempts to better isolate an event for recording/capturing purposes, I made a a platform that holds two camcorders and one pair of hi-powered binoculars on the same stand which is attached to a heavy-duty 'fluid-head' tripod. One camcorder is set in a wider focal range, and the other is equiped with a multiplied optical convertor that extends my telephoto range (without having to go into digital mode). The below photo shows this simple setup with just one camcorder and one pair of binoculars. The hardest thing with this kind of setup is collimating the camcorder to be sighted in conjunction with the binoculars view. But once done, no matter where I look thru the binoculars, the camcorder will be "spot-on" and I can hit the record button without ever removing my eyes from the binoculars and the object I'm tracking. NOTE: This isn't an Infrared setup...



In regards to your next query;
At this time, interaction isn't in our intentions, and in regards to shining a laser at them, after numerous conversations with other ufologists and most recently with the California State Director of MUFON (Ruben Uriarte), it's strongly suggested to not shine a laser-pointer (or any bright light source for that matter) at these objects. As was stated to me, you want to keep your presence as normal and/or hidden as possible. Shining a laser-pointer could and can be misconstrued as a hostile act. I've also had numerous conversations with abductees that resound that resolve that neutral observation is in our best interest. We do not want to signal them or invite then over for a 'spot of tea' or cup of coffee. Lets say that we're able to see thru some grand optical illusion thats presented before us by the Infrared reading the radiation/heat signature of a craft/probe. Then we go a step further in revealing that we can see thru the stealth/cloaking by shining the laser-pointer at them... Not a good idea as we may be now next in line of the list of removable parts for some unknown project (loose conjecture).

In regards to your query could someone up my footage to Google (or to another), I stipulated earlier in the thread that this kind of action was not allowed, and that out of respect you should honor "my copyrighted" footage. If abused, I will remove the links.



posted on Sep, 25 2006 @ 06:06 PM
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Interesting info, JA. I saw your first video, but the second is unavailable. Can you reupload it?

I purchased a Hoya R72 a few weeks ago, and I'm hoping to catch something soon. How often do you see things, and how long do you spend searching?

Thanks.



posted on Sep, 25 2006 @ 07:18 PM
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Originally posted by SteveR
Interesting info, JA. I saw your first video, but the second is unavailable. Can you reupload it?

I purchased a Hoya R72 a few weeks ago, and I'm hoping to catch something soon. How often do you see things, and how long do you spend searching?

Thanks.


The Hoya R72 is an excellent filter for both day and near dark conditions, you should be quite pleased with it. Keep in mind that there is also the strong possibility that you may pick up objects/phenomena that may not be UFO related but rather paranormal. I've had several locations of observation that were near cemeteries and we picked up what many people call 'orbs' that were not seen by the naked eye... I'm not completely sold on many theories of the paranormal, but I can't dispute that I've captured and seen some unexplained phenomena that one camera with infrared engaged 'sees', and the other camera that is just normal doesn't pick-up, regardless of there being more than enough ambient light to illuminate that particular area.

As to how often I see things? That really depends.. I've gone months upon months with not spotting anything, of course this does not mean that there wasn't anything happening. Perhaps my timeframe was off in comparison to their schedule, or my hotspot went cold, or... (insert other excuse here). I spend about 15-40 hours a week looking up (depending on my personal life and work).. This is definitely a hobby that can get you discouraged easily,, perseverance is a big plus... But once you've captured something, you get hooked in very fast... One big tip,, don't let this hobby supersede your "real" life. Take care of the wife and kiddies first, then if time allows, take a step outside.

I want to also mention that you really shouldn't ever turn on your camcorders internal niteshot during the daytime with out a dark filter or a IR filter The above holds true with any digital camera). You can really damage the CCD's and ruin your camcorder for good.. The same goes if your trying to duplicate a "John Bro" effect... Do not point the camcorder directly at the Sun, you will ruin the camera internal sensing circuitry... There is however several that sell a very dar filter sheet in various sizes that can be place in front of your camera or binoculars or even a telescope and is affordable for viewing directly at the Sun. I've tried to capture UFO's this way, but to date (about 8 months now), I've had no success. But it might be worth taking a look at the filter-sheet. It's easy to cut to size and if you make a mistake, there's more than enough left on the sheet to make several for your various optical devices. Links below:

My personal favorite place for Filter Sheets
The above link, professional users include: ABC, BBC CBS, NBC, CNN, NOVA, The Discovery Channel, National Geographic and most major universities and observatories throughout the world, and the bottom line is they are affordable and sometimes can be purchased off eBay ceaper than from the website.

greenwich-observatory

Building a Solar filter

I'd like to add that in any capture, that you spend some time recording birds, bugs and planes at various times at differant settings, so you can discern the differance. Especially when your zoomed in on a particular above-mentioned object. The POV (Point of View) is extremely misleading as the object will appear faster than what it is in actuality. Once you've percieved the differance, you'll be able to compare those sightings with what might be an actual UFO without being disappointed...

Keep Your Eyes towards the Skies!,
Johnny



posted on Sep, 29 2006 @ 03:51 AM
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One question:

According to this theory, the UFO's are invisible unless you filter away visible light, thus only being left with the IR light 780 nm++? Or is it sufficient having a CCR that has no IR block filter in it?

I just bought me a IR filter now that blocks out all light and UV light below 800 nm. At 800 nm it lets 1% light in and at 900 nm it lets 88% light in, the filter only has a 4% loss of IR light at the highest peak in the IR spectrum.


[edit on 29-9-2006 by Acharya]



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