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Oil Change Debacle: Help!

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posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 01:27 PM
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I decided to start saving money and change my own oil…Of course, this is after letting every moron with a wrench and uniform do it for me for about 7 or 8 changes prior…

Now I find myself with a stripped plug and one hell of a firm twist into the oil pan…

I’ve tried socket wrenches and vice grips…I’ve only succeeded in stripping the bolt more…Turning counterclockwise of course...

Are there any tricks of the trade for this malady or am I going to have to suck it up and take it back to the same people who put the damn thing on to get it off?

Also…I plan on replacing it so this won’t occur again – A simple google search reveled a whole new world of sump plug variety galore – Over-sized, magnetic, rubber, self-tapping….What’s the best one to go with??





posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 02:19 PM
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EOH,
Many of the answers to your questions are dependent on the age and condition of the vehicle and how much time, effort, and money you are willing to put into it.

I'm kind of flummoxed at an oilpan drain plug that has been tightened such that it is nearly impossible to remove. I have had some luck in the past with a punch and hammer, placing one sharp rap on the side of the remaining bolt head in the correct direction of twist. Sometimes that will jar a bolt free.

However you get it removed, I would replace it with the factory plug. A self-tapping plug shouldn't be needed as long as the threads in the oilpan are still in good condition. Rubber, you kiddin'? Magnetic oilpan plugs are a gimmick IMO, they would need to be tremendously strong to be effective, and once an engine is 'broken-in', the amount of minute metal shavings drops to nil.

Lotsa' luck..

NC



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 02:40 PM
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There is a tool called an "easy out" or "EZ out" that looks kinda like a drill bit, but works in reverse. It is made specifically for removing stuck bolts or bolts that have the hex head broke off.

Check your local hardware in their drill bits section.

JDub



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 03:04 PM
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Originally posted by NotClever
I have had some luck in the past with a punch and hammer, placing one sharp rap on the side of the remaining bolt head in the correct direction of twist. Sometimes that will jar a bolt free.

So try to jimmy a sharp object in between the gasket and bolt? Worth a shot


Thanks for the tips so far - If the above doesn't work, I'll be on my way to Home Depot JDub ;-)

Oh - It's a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am...

And for your viewing pleasure, here's the stripped bolt – (FYI: That’s just clay (they finally paved our road!):





[edit on 4/15/2006 by EnronOutrunHomerun]



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 05:08 PM
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NO!!! Don't take the risk of distorting the shape of the oilpan. Forget the punch idea, there is not enough of the bolt head left.

I'm usually reluctant to introduce metal shavings into an oilpan. The "EZ Out" tool may be appropriate, have never used it.

If you have room, clamp a vise grip on that as tight as you can possibly get it, I mean serious bring a tear to your eye tight, and give the tool a rap with a hammer.

You've been going to the chain oil change franchises haven't you? Shame on you. I'm picturing one guy in the shop who does nothing but tighten the drain plug..."Mongo! Come here and crank this one in..."

NC

[edit on 15-4-2006 by NotClever]



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 06:51 PM
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Yeah…Nothing was fitting in that airtight gap anyway…

I looked into the EZ Out option, but I was less worried about getting metal shavings in the oil pan and more worried about getting splashed in the face with hot oil once it went through….


I bought a gator grip….Didn’t work – I’ll see if I can return it tomorrow and get a pair of vise grips instead…

I’ve thrown enough four letter words into the wind for tonight


[edit on 4/15/2006 by EnronOutrunHomerun]



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 06:57 PM
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I recommend the following product from Sears...no drilling no problem. Just remember to purchase a new oil plug bolt before you pull the stripped one.

www.sears.com...



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 06:58 PM
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Craftsman used to make a tool just for this....I forget the name but any tool store should have them

KL got it


[edit on 15-4-2006 by Amuk]



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:00 PM
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Woot Woot, high-fives Amuk...



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:07 PM
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Do I have to tell you guys how much you rock AGAIN?!


There's some serious rockage going on here



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:10 PM
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Great ideas, but then you're stuck with a tool you may never use again.

Relatively cheap and not limited to a single use. Big honkin' vise grips. Two-handed tight...two-handed and...my back hurts now tight.

One more thing....take the car for a long drive...long enough to get the engine really warm...run the AC too....then take a shot at it.

NC



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:14 PM
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Originally posted by NotClever
Great ideas, but then you're stuck with a tool you may never use again.


Better than being stuck with a car you can never use again.


Seriously though the tool is worth having if you like to do things yourself. Then again I'm a tool junkie and a do it yourselfer.



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:18 PM
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For an EZ out to work you'd first have to drill a hole into the bolt to insert the EZ out into. EZ outs were designed for bolts that have had the heads broken off. That doesn't apply here.

Buy a pair of GOOD vise grips. The cheap ones will simply distort the wrench and not grip like a vise. Lock that puppy down on that bolt head until you hear it yell, "YOU MY DADDY, YOU MY DADDY!!!" and then crank it counter clockwise.



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:19 PM
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I have had this same problem in the past.

A large pipe wrench always worked for me.



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:20 PM
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Hey…Whatever it takes…

So long as when I’m done with it, this guy won’t be tightening my drain plug anymore!!






posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:21 PM
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Some really great Ideas, I say at this point, take it to a new shop. One of the chains.

The other way to heat it, if you are dead set on doing it yourself. You must do this to have ant chance of getting it out. You can get a little gas torch and heat around the base. clean the area first, 30 seconds on the base 10 off, do it twice, hit the bolt on the side, the try to turn.

Good luck.

[edit on 15-4-2006 by SpittinCobra]



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:21 PM
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Originally posted by kinglizard
Better than being stuck with a car you can never use again.

True,...but, I don't think EOH is rebuilding tractors or vintage cars...he has one frozen bolt he has to remove.

I'm a firm believer in solutions that solve the immediate problem, and since a good pair of vise grip pliers has many future uses, try it first.

I love you mrwupy!!!!

NC



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:25 PM
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Originally posted by mrwupy
For an EZ out to work you'd first have to drill a hole into the bolt to insert the EZ out into. EZ outs were designed for bolts that have had the heads broken off. That doesn't apply here.


The Sears product I posted above is not your grandfathers EZ-Out. lol It doesn't require any drilling, it grips the outside of the bolt similar to a socket wrench.


Enron: you should also spray some WD-40 on the bolt and let it sit for like 10 min. It may loosen some of the rust and dirt.



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:27 PM
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Originally posted by kinglizard
Enron: you should also spray some WD-40 on the bolt and let it sit for like 10 min. It may loosen some of the rust and dirt.

One step ahead of you

I sprayed it earlier before I took it off the wheel ramps and am letting it sit overnight



posted on Apr, 15 2006 @ 07:29 PM
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If you really want to take the easy route, get your wife under the car and point out the bolt to her. Give her a general explanation of the problem then say, "Just forget it, i'm sure you don't even understand what i'm talking about."

When you get up the next morning that bolt will be out of the car. You may have to buy a new oil pan but she'll hand you that bolt.



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