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How to Increase MPG

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posted on Jul, 22 2008 @ 05:39 PM
Only put mineral oil in your transmission if you have a transmission oil cooler that is over sized and live in Alaska. Mineral oil is VERY light compared to the recomended oil and when heated, becomes even lighter! You need heavy oil and all the losses it presents in your transmission, otherwise, the light oil will not cling to the gears inside. Your transmission might last 2 years if you do this.

Light oil in an automatic transmission will not allow the torque converter to transfer all the power from the engine to the transmission and alot of energy will be lost in the oil. It would be like slipping clutch pads.

A higher voltage in your ignition system does not burn more gas, a longer high voltage pulse duration may burn more gas and or a spark with more current (not voltage). If you have the correct air/fuel mixture at the spark, it really doesn't matter how many volts it is, your spark plug gap and the 2000-5000ohm ignition wires matter alot more. The more currnet in the spark, the hotter/fatter it is, the longer the spark plug wires are the less current you will have, they are not normal copper wires, they have alot of resistance. The larger your spark plug gap is, the less "resistance" it has to the amount of voltage going through it, a larger gap can have more voltage going through it for a given amount of current.

Magnets, if they do somehow rearrange particals in the gas, will loose that effect after the gas goes through the gas fiter, pressure regulator and/or the injectors.

Dyno tests or it doesn't work.

posted on Aug, 14 2008 @ 05:12 PM
Hey folks! read up on Hypermiling techniques-- they don't cost you anything upfront and you can reap great benefits just by driving smarter. try slower acceleration, watching well ahead of your position on the road to adjust speed and gas pedal to conditions ahead and take advantage of coasting... i live in a hilly area and modest speed up the hill will get me many miles of coasting down over a tank. I've found that i can increase the # of miles i get out of a tank by 10% at least. the best thing about hypermiling is that i've learned that 90% of the time, i catch up to the ppl who drag raced to the next light anyway. what did they gain?? having to idle ten or twenty seconds longer than me. what did they lose? increase MPG from smarter driving.

posted on Aug, 27 2008 @ 01:11 AM
I have an a addition. I have a 92 acura vigor, and it always got 320 miles per tank. well, it got down to 260-290 so i decided to get a tune needed it.So,.. I got the car back and the mileage was back to 320 per tank just like always. I had owned this car for 3 years at this point so I was familiar with it. Then I was up grading the stereo around the same time, and ended up buying a new yellow top battery and way overdoing the engine ground straps. Until I could place the red wire from my volt meter on the positive battery terminal and then place the ground from the voltmeter anywhere in the engine compartment or frame and it would read the same voltage as if I put it directly on both battery terminals. And low and behold when I started the car it sounded better, felt better, then after keeping records for two months I had verified that the mileage was now 420 miles per tank! I did the same thing to my wifes DEL Sol, add got the same improvement, from 320 to 420 per tank. The Del sol has a 10 gallon tank and my acura has a 15 gallon tank. I am not exactly sure why, but I do have some theory's...according to my owners manual 80 percent of all electrical failures/problems are the result of a faulty ground...So, there you go you can try it for 50 to 100 bucks if you have to buy everything.It could also be the ignition. maybe. I don't know and I don't really care why, it worked on both cars I own so thats good enough for me to do this to number three.(Another Acura Vigor). Take care

posted on Nov, 2 2008 @ 08:23 PM
reply to post by Anonymous ATS

Yes...hypermiling is a method of driving that can be utilized to save money and increase MPG. However, certain aspects of it can be dangerous (i.e. the near tailgating of a semi or vehicle in front of you).

With nearly no effort,you can probably increase your gas mileage by 15-30 percent by doing 2 things:

1. Alter your driving habits to not accelerate hard and not brake hard.

2. Drive the speed limit while heading up the highway

I've started to do both, being very conscious of the speed limit side and have seen gains of 15-20% per tank.

Plus, I find my drive a bit less stressful and I get to enjoyo the radio and audiobooks a bit more than usual.

Admin -

posted on Nov, 7 2008 @ 12:29 PM
reply to post by Desert Dawg

I squeezed roughly 2 MPG average out of the following:

1999 Silverado 5.3, 4X4 - Average 19 MPG (overall)


*Throttle body spacer
*180 degree thermostat
*Predator Programmer with a modified 93 octane tune.
*Cleaned and Polished the Throttle body
*The largest intake I could find with a 6" x 9" air filter element and velocity stack.

How did it work? Months of experimenting with the tune on the truck. I even had Diablosport's help to remove most of the torque management to allow the engine to use its full potential all the time, and not just when loaded down with cargo. However, this makes the transmission vulnerable to damage when driving like a lunatic. Advanced spark, modified fuel trims and shift points create more torque and allows the transmission to utilize the torque more efficiently. This alone has been the largest gain I have seen so far. As long as you keep the engine below 2,500 RPM, the gas mileage is terrific. Quick starts and revving the motor over 2,500 RPM kills the MPG gain but I haven't seen anything worse than what the truck does when its bone stock. I have noticed that I can stay in 4th gear all the way to work traveling the highway at 70 MPH. This is in Western PA and the roads are pretty hilly. This includes passing and merging in low traffic conditions.

Future Development:

*Exhaust - May not benefit MPG at all. I am keeping the stock setup with a different muffler. Why? Because duals and 3" or larger singles will kill either torque, city MPG, or both. I have seen a lot of trucks like mine get 15 MPG or worse average mileage when adding “free flowing” or “performance” exhaust. Even after trying to tune the truck for the exhaust. Stock is 17 overall I believe.
*Electric Fans - Will further improve gas mileage in stop and go traffic.
*Modifying the 93 octane tune further to maximize the use of 89 octane. Hoping to keep the MPG gain but lower my fuel costs. This will more than likely sacrifice HP.
*Adding a shift kit and transmission cooler to help preserve the transmission.

posted on Jan, 1 2009 @ 12:48 PM

posted on Jan, 21 2009 @ 11:30 AM
post removed for serious violation of ATS Terms & Conditions

posted on Mar, 15 2009 @ 11:18 PM
Textreply to post by TeslaandLyne

Having been experimenting off and on the past 25 years with gas milage, it came to me that some of the creations I had come up with were good, but incomplete.

The vortex injection system was experimented by myself on a carburated 64' Dodge Polara. Ionizided air induction was worked out and worked on a 80' Ford Crown Victoria. Magnetic energy introduced around the fuel line just before the injection system on a 95' Ford F150 and a 03' Ford Windstar.

Logicly, when a 300 mile trip is taken in a sever thunderstorm with driving rain you would expect mpg to drop because of wind, rain and tire resistance to the wet road, but in my old Dodge Polara my mpg went from 17mpg to 22mpg. Why? I spent years trying to figure out how to replicate a thunderstorm injection system without blowing something and myself up.

Six months ago I stumbled across some information on HHO fuel cells. For those of you that are unfamiliar, it is separating hydrogen and oxigen out of water. Google "Browns Gas" and read all you can.

A thunderstorm enriches a concentration of Hydrogen, Oxigen and Nitrogen into the air. Performance has always improved for me when driving under these conditions. I now have these conditions every day with my complete home made system.

My 99' Ford Escort ZX2 went from 20mpg city / 29mpg highway to 32mpg city / 45mpg highway. It would actually do better, but I do drive fast. The car runs like it has 25 more horsepower and I do like that. I used to run premium grade gas, but now only regular unleaded. There is no smell coming from the exaust either. The system has been in use for months and my oil looks remarkably new since my last oil change 3 months ago. I do however use full synthetic oil and have for years. When I had it inspected it passed with flying colors.

Every possible safety precaution is incorporated in my system. I bought all the things I needed on E-bay. Understand, I am not offering anything for sale, but am willing to pass on my experiences to those that really want it.

All The Best,

posted on May, 9 2009 @ 02:43 PM
I'm surprised that people are so insistent on driving at speeds lower than the speed limit. Every car is geared differently, and speed limit vary by state, highway, region, etc. I have a 2005 Grand Prix GTP (Supercharged), and I get my best mileage at 71 mph on cruise. My highway mileage is usually about 24 mpg, but with minimal traffic, I can easily pull 25 mpg at 71 mph, with the tach at about 1800 rpms. I suggest finding a comfortable speed where the engine is running at low rpms. That's where you will get your best mileage.

And as far as running your tires at 40-45 psi is concerned, your tire generate heat and build up pressure quite easily. For example, in dirt track racing, we sand our tires to remove the glaze after each race, and sipe them (adding cuts so they heat up faster). When we sand them, we can up the pressure 2-3 psi easily. That's a light sanding, without generating nearly as much heat as you would on a 95 degree day on an asphalt road.

I also work on semi-trailers for a living. A common 22.5 tire is filled to 95 psi, and that pressure can double under load when it gets hot.

By over pressuring your tires, you'll reduce the longevity, and risk exposing any flaws in the tire when it heats up, potentially exploding the tire. Blow a low-profile tire, you can damage the rim, blow a high-profile tire, especially a steer tire, and you can find your self fighting to control your vehicle.

posted on Nov, 8 2014 @ 06:22 PM

Q. How much octane do you need? A. Just enough to prevent knock which is sometimes called “spark knock.” That is because another way to reduce knock is to retard the spark, that is, to slow the timing.
a reply to: donwhite

Moving this thread forward 8 years the car has accumulated a lot of mileage. Back plugs fowled so we had to segregate via 2 anti fowling adapters. Those spark plugs that claim to fire in oil don't work worth a damn.

Now the two rear plugs are firing in tiny little chambers which changes the flame front characteristics.
You can only advance the timing just so far to compensate before the piston wrist pins are going to start pinging against the bronze bushings.

There may be warnings long before the SHTF such as contaminated gasoline supplies. Strategically if you disable your enemies most critical vehicles you gain an advantage, often without even having to declare a conflict.

Things could go down hill in a hurry if they start rolling partially filled barrels of gasoline at us like Molotov cocktails.

posted on Nov, 9 2014 @ 08:15 AM
Don't want to derail the thread but its not only MPG but the cost of ownership. Electric vehicles are expensive but have less moving parts and maintenance. Sure battery replacement eats away all the saving, it is probably factored in to be that way but at least in the future there will be more improvement in this area. Improvement in 3rd party battery replacement for something lighter, more capacity or something completely different like capacitors which charge much faster.

posted on May, 27 2015 @ 02:32 AM
Use manual transmission instead of automatic, that saves a lot. And its lot more fun.

posted on Dec, 13 2015 @ 08:34 PM

off-topic post removed to prevent thread-drift


posted on Dec, 13 2015 @ 08:35 PM

off-topic post removed to prevent thread-drift


posted on Dec, 13 2015 @ 09:01 PM
Leave earlier, just cruise, use your big toe, not your whole foot. Install a Hiclone and the big one people stuff up on all the time is........ If the compression ratio of your engine is not at 10:0 +( most are at 9) then use the low octane 85-91.
Premium does not give you great MPG in a low compression motor, it actually chews more.

posted on Dec, 13 2015 @ 09:02 PM
Just get one of these.

[links to vlkswagen xl1]

[why you can't.]

posted on Dec, 21 2015 @ 01:37 PM
I drive a 07 FJ cruiser In the far north of North America.
Winter spring summer fall it's my daily driver.
The 6 speed manual has all time all wheel drive so...I loose about 1 MPG compared to the automatic.
Yet when I shift in the low RPMs....coast in neutral to stop signs.....and basically drive it like it's a 40 year old jeep....

I mainly bought it for its low speed high torque and power for winters.
It's as factory loaded as fjs go but it's still missing allot of modern day extra.
Great budget vehicle at the time yet now they have skyrocketed in resale value.

Anyway premium gas 91 octane no ethenol....
Around 3 more MPG is what others are noticing as well on an FJ forum I am on.
That's what I found as well. It costs a little more but I total between 5 and 8$ saved a tank.

I punch it every so often getting on the highway etc or even in town.
Still it ends up being more rare as I consciously change my driving habits.

Slow down
Take in the scenery
Get off of being an automatic driver.
You'll get there just as fast noticing the stop light 80 yards away rather then racing to it and noticing it 20 yards away going heavy on the brakes.
Fjs recomend premium it isn't required says Toyota.
So I have ran both and it simply runs a hell of allot better on premium fuel.

Sometimes being "cheep" isn't cost effective.
Check to see how you do on premium if premium is recommended for your make and model of vehicle.

Other then that keep your windows up if possible and run air or the AC on highways.
AC is better gas mileage then windows down. Allot of drag.

Someone else mentioned tires....

Other then that the mods seem expensive very incremental like .5 or 1 mpg increase which oh well. I mean do you drive your car? Sometimes your going to want that power or acceleration there. Like when some asshole is speeding through an intersection at 30 mph over and you just you punch it to get through.

Gas savers can help. I don't own one now. That's another car payment and insurance.
I only put on about 6k miles this year anyway.

Keep your beast well maintained plugs wires and sensors make a difference.
I run AT tread that looks like mud but is good on ice.
Oh well who cares?

People can be way too anal about gas as is.

Oh and in winter theirs no need to run your car for 20 minutes lol to a half an hour. Haha
3 minutes is fine or 5 max. Buy a pair of gloves and wear a hat.

Another basic is simply keeping your vehicle maintained. All the little things make a difference. Balanced tires etc I prefer ready to go whenever so I shop
And sometimes practical is hidden behind a lack of convenient options or shopping for cars like their shoes.
My FJ is also "black cherry" so it helps to have some self esteem over how big your penis already is.
Overcompensation is expensive.
There are allot of expensive things in the motor vehicle department due to little penis syndrome that trump your gas mileage.

edit on 21-12-2015 by OverYonder because: (no reason given)

edit on 21-12-2015 by OverYonder because: (no reason given)

posted on Dec, 21 2015 @ 07:13 PM

originally posted by: Beachcoma
I don't know whether this is true or not, but somebody told me that if you fill up just before dawn, when the air is still cool, you should be able to get a little bit extra fuel for your money's worth. Apparantly the gasoline contracts when it's still cold outside and starts to expand the minute the sun goes up.

Is there any merit in this theory?

Apparently its true, what is interesting is the temperature of the fuel when it goes into the combustion chamber has a great deal to do with millage. I had an old English Austin A 30 and the fuel line and carb were really close to the exhaust manifold. Fifty to the gallon was standard. The only problem was after a long run it needed a few turns to start as the fuel vaporised in the carb.
A friend actually built a vehicle and wrapped the copper fuel line around the exhaust manifold, which increased the temp. of the incoming gas. He claimed some incredible millage to the gallon. Their was also an old thing used during the second world war that put air with a high moisture content (vaporiser) into the engine along with the fuel so when it ignited it turned to steam. This was supposed to get some interesting millage as well. Foggy night on my motorbike, seemed to confirm this as the power seemed higher than during the day.
edit on 21-12-2015 by anonentity because: (no reason given)

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