posted on Apr, 11 2020 @ 08:12 AM
What happens in a pandemic is food becomes of prime importance alongside mitigating the medical side.
How do we know this ?
All pandemic emergency plans include this aspect.
Various countries are in various states of array regarding food. You can a take a precedent on national food policies as being that of masks.
It doesn't matter who has ordered the goods , the shipment will not be leaving the country because "we need that " .
It's hardly a coordinated effort , let's say. That said the existing markets were set for competition , the opposite of cooperating.
You've got to work with circumstances and it shouldn't need reiterating . Every household must have a good policy of its own , best case scenario.
Before anyone's mind moves on to thoughts of looting or home invading looking for sustainance , think again . If gets that far you're asking for an
infection for a start . And if you come round here you're going to find out what you didn't want to , soon as.
Anyway , think ahead . Assume that exports from overseas are not going to be arriving , and assume that shop are going to ration supplies as it was in
wartime , when ships still arrived , just not all of them .
Assume ports will be ' underused ' let's say for the next 3 years. That commercial fishing vessel from Japan is not sailing a month long tuna run
this week , they don't know which crew might be infected , etc etc etc , the world over.
So , cut a vegetable bed . And if you live in a flat , start ringing your local council offering them help with emergency food planning , at the park
, for instance. Maybe consider volunteering to pick food as they ask for people to sign up. At least you'll be near something edible , if you did
that . They're paying you too , double what the EU migrant workers were being paid in the UK.
Yes it is that important.
Take an average sub/urban garden , what are looking at ? Grass , and under that is soil.
There is the means for life .
How do you turn that , into something productive ?
First of all don't worry too much about light, but don't expect much from densely shaded spots . Observe the adequate sites for vegetable prospects.
Sacrifice the lawn .
Now, turning that in to usable ground involves cutting , not digging so much , it's later on you'll need a fork.
You've got two options . They involve re/moving that turf and exposing usable soil.
Option 1 is cut the turf off . Cut small squares into it , down to below the roots . Cut the squares first , across the whole bed you are creating ,
working along lines with a spade shovel or turf cutter.
Once your squares are cut , start removing the turf by cutting the squares underneath , using a shovel spade or turf cutter . The smaller the squares
, the easier this is. Line the spade up and kick it to force it through , use your knee behind the handle or get down low and keep cutting , leaving
most of the soil underneath. As the squares come off, stack them to one side, neatly , or you can use these squares again later if the soil is poor .
Build up a small wall of them to provide some shelter if not something to sit on. Stack them upside down .
Option 2 , involves manageable sized squares again.
What you're going to do is like what a plow does , it turns everything upside down including what's on the surface. This is a good method .
First of all you must dig a trench . This trench should be the length of your intended veg plot, on one side.
To do this , cut down deeply with a spade , get the spade down most of the way in. Smash down on roots you encounter to cut them either repeatedly by
hand or with a judicious kick , or get some loppers in if they're thick.
Loosen pushing back and forth on the spade to get a deep line cut.
Now, do this again about a spades width away from the first, cut the ends as well to join up. Then , heave everything out to at least half a spade
depth , piling along the trench line to the _ outside of the bed.
Now you've done that ( hard work wasn't it ) this is the good part.
Cut another line up the same way you did the first two. One spade with away . This time cut neat squares between the new line and your trench. Remove
one or two squares at one end , physically take them out , to give you space to work the good bit.
Let the turf hold the soil together , and extract each square by hand . Use gloves.
Now , physically manhandle your third square along into your trench , literally turn it over on itself , moving it the small distance into your trench
from one end. Working on your hands and knees do this one square after the other , making sure the turf is upside down , until you've filled the
original trench and you're leaving a new trench , arent you.
Guess what you do next ? Cut another line , square it , turn the squares into the trench. You'll soon get the idea , and you needed that trench dug
to start with didn't you. That's how you plough by hand .
After completing option 2 , you can lightly hoe a tilth into the surface to put seeds in . Don't dig it a bring the turf up you don't need to . Make
sure it's all tight enough together , you don't want too much loose soil. Water well and you're good to put seed in. If you're doing potatoes use
the original trench line and then you have that spare line of soil to cover any that you see growing near the surface , stops going green and
poisonous in the sunlight .
If you've gone for option 1 , you've more work to do.
That bare soil is too tight to plant in . Cut down near a spade depth , again in squares . If you find lots of hard stones maybe use a fork or a
Pick out roots , litter , rubble , throw it away or dry the cut up roots to burn.
If there's a large tree or bushes nearby , go the extra mile and cut down deeper , severing everything off rootwise.
You might find just cutting squares down is loosened enough, if you're going for large this is when decisions count on what's adequate. Cut
horizontally now with a hoe. Consecutive lines again , work neatly.
With both methods Get things loosened but finish off getting the surface level , and crucially , firm .
Not too firm , don't go stamping on it , but foot firm , that's a requirement . Too many people assume looser is better : it's not . Roots go
through concrete , eventually , plants take support from them and they need it originally both firm and moist enough. Too loose loses water too fast
When you put seeds in ( foot firm after too remember), use lines like farmers do , and then you can hoe weeds off easily when your plants grow up,
you can access your crops and you can see exactly where they are when they're young.
Get it right. Try and get the depth right according to the packet. To make a furrow for seeds you need something long . The best way is lay is lay
down a plank you can walk on, and draw the edge of a hoe , or a small weeding knife , or a pointing trowel , up along one edge of the plank. Adjust
the depth as necessary and work of the plank. That stops compaction happening as you keep shifting around to get seeds in. Don't be surprised this is
hard work too , but time and care at this point is necessary.
Lastly , water in. If there's no hose you'll have to either carry or wait for rain. Don't be alarmed it comes eventually . These days , well , yes
a well is handy . Spray over the the top of the soil to start seeds away , without disturbing the position of the seeds. If it's very dry , leave a