a reply to: Mandroid7
The one thing I wonder when looking at the design, is how to best stabilize the fixture since it just threads into a 3/4" fm stub out and will have a
ton of leverage on it when extended. It almost needs a set screw through the FM fitting.
I thought about this for a long while before I started the project. It's actually pretty sturdy, but it took a while to figure out how to do it.
Here's what I did...
1. Opened up a wall section between two studs where I wanted the fixture to go. (Of course the fixture wanted to be not near a stud (Murphy's
2. Screwed a piece of 2x6 blocking horizontally from stud to stud inside the stud space, pushed all the way back against the sheetrock on the opposing
3. Screwed a 1/2" drop-ear elbow to the 2x6 blocking, at the exact location I wanted the fixture.
4. Ran the water line to the drop-ear elbow.
5. Cut a piece of 3/4" CDX plywood 12" x 14.5" to fit between the studs. Then I cut a piece of 1/2" ACX plywood to 12" x 16" (my sheetrock is 1/2").
Then I screwed the two pieces of plywood together so the 3/4" piece fits between the studs, and the 1/2" piece fits over the studs. I'm going to tile
the wall anyway, so I just used the 1/2" plywood in lieu of the sheetrock in this area. Plus, it gives me something to screw to which is more
substantial than sheetrock. Then I screwed the 1/2" plywood into the studs just like you would sheetrock.
6. Drilled a 1" hole through the plywood at the location of the fixture, and threaded a 4" x 1/2" (ID) brass nipple into the drop-ear elbow. (This
extended the water line out past the edge of the wall so I could thread the fixture on). (Note - The OD of the brass nipple is about 7/8" so a 1"
hole was just right).
(just for sanity's sake at this step, I capped the nipple and turned the water on to pressure test everything and make sure there were no leaks.
There weren't...whew! Then I turned the water off and uncapped the brass nipple).
7. The fixture itself comes with a mounting flange, so I put the mounting flange on the fixture (with a gasket underneath), and threaded the fixture
onto the nipple.
8. Once I had the fixture threaded onto the nipple, I could then screw the mounting flange into the 1-1/4" thick plywood blocking I'd placed.
9. Then I tightened the set screw between the fixture and the mounting flange which anchors the fixture to the wall. The plywood blocking keeps the
nipple from bending, and protects the connection at the drop-ear elbow behind it. It also serves as the anchor point for the fixture. The 2x6
blocking behind the plywood is the anchor point for the drop-ear elbow and anchors the fixture from being pulled outward.
10. Turned the water on. No leaks...YAY!!
11. Started drinking...liquor, not water!
P.S. - Of course, after this I had to tape and mud all the joints and finish sheetrock. Also, in step #4, I just abbreviated the (75) steps it took
to run the water line from a utility room on the other side of the wall.
edit on 12/22/2019 by Flyingclaydisk because: (no reason