a reply to: Flyingclaydisk
That bark river. Its a bravo 1.5 model. Its not bad. But I got it on sale a while ago, when it came the bevels were kind of offset. So I see why it
was on sale, I fixed it, then I kind of rebroke it again. But it came with that cool leather sheath, which is not bad, prefer the wooden ones I make,
there more sturdy, but the leather or kydex saves on ounces.
But not worried about ounces. In all its a really good sheath, dont think its standard bark river sheath, but it came with the knife.
I kind of messed it up already, cant tell in that pic but the tip is sort of just rounded off. Going to have to grind it down and change it to a drop
point. I have been telling myself that for a year or more now, still have not got around to doing it, even though it would take me literally like 30
minutes on the grinder and some finishing work to turn it into a drop point.
The one your talking about next to the K-bar. Its monosteel, single steel, its a cru-v steel I was talking about earlier, never did a damascus, one
day maybe I will, but I dont think there is any advantage over monosteel, will have to do a few and test them then break them, see if there is more to
it then just cool wavy patterns.
But i seriously doupt it as its the microstructure of the steel, that give it its properties. Everything else may just be for looks.
The original reason why the japanese or spaniards and others did the folding technique is to remove impurities from the steel. And if you make you
own steel in the back yard, your going to get impurities. And also, that knife was originally going to have a hamon on it. Never done it before, but
should not be that hard, you can even use furnace cement instead of the original clay and ash mix, it will work, and i got a big bucket of it, just
But originally, when I made all those knifes, exept the fighter double edged one. Was more of a bushcraft or survival type knife. If I put a hamon on
it, it will leave the spine soft, to soft to strike a ferro rod for any amount of time, and also to soft to use the spine of the knife for anything
like scraping bark, or fat of hide, or even using the spine of the knife and a flint stone to start fires, as it will round off and become useless.
Its kind of like the whole premise I was originally wanted to do, only you know add a bit more curve. Also only did one knife by forging, well 2,
that second from the left knife, the big one, I forged that, its the one I decided that I was eventualy going to do stainless steels more then carbon,
around here, the moisture gets in everything.
In all just do stock removal, as all the steels that I want to make knifes out off, well there all air hardening steels, even AEB-L, you can probably
forge it if you wanted to, or if you got a shop or something. But it would not be a good idea, as all stainless steels are air hardening steels, once
you bring them to 1900F, and start hammering on them, your more likley to just create internal fractures then anything else.
Also eventually going to make me some knifes out of nitrogen steels, carbon and stainless chromium ultimately wont cut it. Some time down the line,
when I break these or get bored of them, also kind of broke on the money department, so not going for anything to fancy or complicated right now.
But really just doing as a hobby, with my #ty propane forge, my 2x72 grinder, and one of those handheld drills you find anywere, and a handheld
grinder with a cut off wheel, and a but load of time, here and there. Eventually though going to have to make my own steel as well, as even the most
modern nitrogen steel out there, while expensive, and hard get your hands on, the ones I seen and looked at, that to wont cut it in the end.