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Home Brew Beer Thread

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posted on Dec, 17 2017 @ 11:15 PM
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Hi!

First of all, i like good beer!

Me and my friend tried to make some beer when we were teenagers. We got a complete set from the store but skipped one or two steps of the process because they seemed "Difficult and useless". Beer ended up tasting very not-like-beer and we ended up running to toilet and back.

On the other hand, my grandfather, when he was alive, was a very orderly and organized man. He followed the steps of the beer kits and fine tuned them using his own ideas. When properly chilled, the beer tasted fresh, like a real good quality beer and it was quite strong. Just 3 pints in a relatively short time could lead to a good buzz.

So i think what i am trying to say here is: If you decide to brew your own beer, follow the instructions of the kits and these days we have the internet to search from, i am sure there are many good homebrewing discussion forums out there!




posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 12:11 AM
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I have 40 pints of cider ready for the Christmas period. Brewed from a kit. I find kits can be hit and miss, but it depends on your tolerance to drink the really ropey stuff. My wife has a poor tolerance, while mine is OK so I may end up drinking the lot.

Many years ago I used to tap the birch trees and make birch sap wine and stuff like that. Interesting times.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 01:42 AM
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a reply to: DBCowboy

Use Star San as your sanitizer, mix it as directed.

Do not use tap water, buy distilled water jugs or five gallon filtered water.

Although tap water can work, it often has enough chlorine to throw flavor off in a bad way.

For IPA, keep it simple. I don't think you should dry hop on the first batch. Keep it simple, Do a first boil hop, late addition and then aroma hop at the very end.

Don't bother buying a kit, they cost more money. Just use simple pilsner malt extract, you can add some corn sugar to boost alcohol, but don't add too much.

My recipe would be something like this...

6LBS of malt extract.
.5lb crystal malt (crush this grain and use a nylon grain bag)
.5lb marris otter malt (in grain bag)

Steep grain 30 minutes at boil, remove.

Use Safale dry yeast, it's reliable and you won't have to worry about bad liquid yeast, liquid yeast is great too, but if you are mail ordering it's much safer to use dry yeast.

Pitch the yeast at 70 degrees.

Hops? use whatever interests you. But the thing is, if you dry hop, you can screw up the the beer. If the hops are stale, or not as fresh, they can make it bad.

Quite honestly, I think IPA is the worst style to home brew because the big brewers are buying the best hops.

The hops you buy from brew suppliers are more or less older and not as fresh choice as what the commercial brewers get.

Nothing matters in terms recipe, use what you think will be interesting to you and keep it clean. Do not use bleach, it can screw up your beer really good.

It's not that you can't use bleach, but if you have any small amount, it will make the beer bad.

I suggest you buy Charlie Papazians home brew book, it's laymans terms...follow it, and it will make good beer.

His slogan is "relax have a homebrew" It's good reading. Have fun. Don't even try to emulate something you can get at the store.

It's your beer.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 03:50 AM
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Me and a buddy make mead.
They have a farm with some beehives so the honey is plentiful.

Made an orange mead and malted mead (Braggot) in the begging of the year, the orange mead was light (6%) and took about 4 months, the braggot is only ready for drinking now and much stronger (12-14%)

It's delicious though, and very rewarding.
Got a blueberry mead fermenting as we speak


Only gripe is that we're using plastic brew tanks (25L) ea. that we got from a brewing shop, but we'll be upgrading to glass carboys in the very near future.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 04:18 AM
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I bottle into 2L fizzy water bottles. They are bigger so need less, they are very cheap at the supermarket, you don't need to sterilise them because they are already sterilised. Obv empty the fizzy water out first.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 04:44 AM
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a reply to: DBCowboy

Hi DB. I find in the long term it is cheaper. Presently I have 4 brews going. 46 litres of draught in a large tub, 2 x 23 litres of lager and 23 litres of apple cider with some blackberry flavour. Drinking cider at the moment and I was a bit disappointed with the taste. May have to put more sugar and a litre less water. Generally I find that a kilogram of sugar to each 23 litres suffices for brewing.

I let the brew ferment over 14 days, test the specific gravity and if good then I bottle. A teaspoon of sugar is added to each 350 mil bottle and 2 teaspoons to the 750 mil. Leave in the bottles for about 18 days.

Boring but I stick with the recipe from the brew tins. Haven't had a fail yet but I have heard of many from those who swerve from the directions on the tin. I buy and brew Coopers Ales, pretty simple. Plenty of bottle cleaning goes on and I recycle as much as I can.

Keeping the kit, bottles and implements sterilized is the key to a good brew. I ensure the temperature is between 24 and 26 degrees Celsius during the brewing. Its fun and my wife and friends all enjoys the brews, I say go for it.

Kind regards, bally.




edit on 18-12-2017 by bally001 because: (no reason given)



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 04:46 AM
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a reply to: and14263

Great idea. I'll try that.

bally




posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 05:04 AM
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a reply to: DBCowboy

I remember when I was a kid ...........which was many moons ago. The old timers would home brew, but they didn't have kits. I remember their bottles would blow up in the garage. Anywho I remember they learned that you should put a raisin at the bottom of the bottle before capping. I believe that was for fermentation and helping with the bottles not blowing up. I also remember that me and my brother snuck one of those bottles (we were like 10 years old)..........boy did I get toasted.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 05:33 AM
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a reply to: DBCowboy

I have worked at several bars and taverns in my past,these places don't own
the bottles! The beer companies that deliver the beer to the bars owns the
bottles and they have to be returned.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 06:06 AM
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off-topic post removed to prevent thread-drift


 



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 06:42 AM
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originally posted by: DBCowboy
a reply to: eriktheawful

I guess my first question is, in buying these "complete" kits, what else would I really need to get in order to make it complete?

I hate buying these things then finding out you need X, Y, and Z.


Things you'll need that you can't just run to Walmart or Target and buy:

Air Locks: these allow the CO2 during fermentation to escape but keeps out bacteria floating around in the air. My favorite one of these is the little serpentine one that you put water in as it gurggles during fermentation.

Rubber stoppers with holes: if you use a big glass carboy (or even a small glass jug) you need these to cap your beer during fermentation but it will have a hole for the air lock. Personally I used the large 5 gallon paint buckets you can buy from Home Depot for primary fermentation and just drill a hole in the lid.

Coolers or Chillers: These are copper tubes that are coiled and are used to cool your boil down quickly. It isn't the same as a copper tube fore distilling, but instead has cold water running through it while it's in your wort. It's optional, but it cools your wort down to room temp in 15 minutes or so, where as if you just let the wort set and cool on it's own, can take hours, which can lead to bacteria contamination.....and of course having to want many hours for it to cool down.

Gravity Meter: this is a cylinder with a weighted glass tube to measure the specific gravity of your wort. You use it to measure the gravity of the wort prior to fermentation and then again after, which indicates that primary fermentation is done. It's really optional and mostly needed when you're crafting your own special beers. Don't really need it for a kit beer.

Bottle Caper and Caps: If you're not going to keg your beer, you'll need these to bottle it so it can carbonate in the bottles.

Kegging equipment: if you would rather keg your beer. Kegging has the advantage of allowing you to enjoy your beer quickly after it's gone through primary and secondary fermentation, instead of bottling it and having to wait another week or so for it to carbonate. But: the equipment for kegging can be expensive.

Pretty much what you want to use, want to get, and think of using will be up to you as you brew each time.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 06:53 AM
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a reply to: DBCowboy


Okay, so you just had a lengthy back and forth with Erik where we were able to see that you have no knowledge of home brewing and that nothing can possibly go wrong here.

I want video, not of the process, but of you consuming, in vast quantities, whatever specious fluid emerges from the brewing kit. You owe this to me.




edit on 18-12-2017 by AugustusMasonicus because: Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:03 AM
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a reply to: AugustusMasonicus

ROFL!

Yeeeeaaaah. Even the most prolific home brewers will tell you that things can go horribly wrong no mater how much experience you got under your belt.

Bottle Bombs were my biggest mistake. Slightly over primed my beer for carbination when I bottled one batch. They went off while I was on a trip. Came home to find beer bottles stuck in my ceiling with their bottoms still on the shelf. Others just shattered and a very beer smelling room!

Oooohhhhh WATER!

yah, DB, someone else mentioned this. Believe it or not, it's the MOST important ingredient in brewing, be it beer, meads, or wine.

Tap water can work, but as mentioned if it's chlorinated it can throw the taste off. Distilled water tends to lack minerals that make water taste good and also can change the taste of the beers.

I'm very lucky in that I use my well water, and my well water here in SC is wonderful for brewing. Not all well water is the same though. I have friends in Florida that hate their well water (it has a sulfur smell to it).



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:05 AM
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Lots of good info here, Iv not much to add.

Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew.

Also check out Howtobrew.com

It's a free book.

Homebrewer gone "pro" here... questions? As away.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:08 AM
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a reply to: AugustusMasonicus

It's never too late to learn something new.

Just a preview of me enjoying my home craft brew (Fat Man Ales)




posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:09 AM
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originally posted by: eriktheawful
Bottle Bombs were my biggest mistake. Slightly over primed my beer for carbination when I bottled one batch. They went off while I was on a trip. Came home to find beer bottles stuck in my ceiling with their bottoms still on the shelf. Others just shattered and a very beer smelling room!


I just looked up a YouTube video on this. Too funny.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:11 AM
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a reply to: eriktheawful

Bottled water okay then?



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:11 AM
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originally posted by: DBCowboy
Just a preview of me enjoying my home craft brew (Fat Man Ales)


I prefer DB's Short and Stout. Made with real shorts.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:14 AM
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originally posted by: DBCowboy
a reply to: eriktheawful

Bottled water okay then?


Yah actually. It's what a lot of city folk use who home brew.

Like I said: I'm very lucky that my well water is perfect for brewing (includes ice tea and coffee too). The Ph level is perfect coming out of the well.



posted on Dec, 18 2017 @ 07:15 AM
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a reply to: AugustusMasonicus

My family (evil disrespectful ungracious parasites!) are having a field day picking names out for my beer.




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