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Chevy mechanic in the house?

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posted on Sep, 15 2016 @ 04:20 PM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

Drove my truck today into town for gas. It ran poor, check engine light flashing for about 2 miles then kinda smoothed out and ran ok with check engine light on but not flashing. Put 1/2 tank of premium gas and some injector cleaner in it.

Took it in to the mechanics shop and he hooked a nice reader/scanner too it. It showed him the o2 sensors were working, all numbers normal. It told him that over the I guess life of the truck which cylinders had how many misfires. Mostly on 1 bank so he said that kinda ruled out a fuel pressure issue.

He saw nothing out of the ordinary(damn my luck) and erased all the codes and the past misfires. Drove home great about 5-6 miles and check engine light did not come on.

When I cleared the codes it came back on in 1/2 mile.

I don't know, maybe the premium gas and cleaner did the trick or threatening to take it to the doctor/surgeon scared it straight???

A cold wet morning start up will tell I guess and then at least he could rescan it and see what is misfiring.




posted on Sep, 15 2016 @ 05:02 PM
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Ok. Well if the O2 sensors are switching correctly you either have a bad ignition coil/ sparkplug wire or cracked sparkplug or leaking fuel injector for cylinder#1 if it was misfiring way out of the ballpark of the others. You said it had random misfires codes which is tdc p0300. And is why i was originally ruling out in my head the parts that i just mentioned. But if it is only misfiring on cyl. #1 tdc p0301 and when wet means the coil,wire, or plug has an issue. Spark plugs if iridium ore ony good for 100k/5 years. coils and wire may make it 150k unless you live in like texas or similar.
But all your old codes i thought were for bank 2. Cyl #1 is on bank 1.
Usually due to the design of the fuel rail on those cyl#7 fuel injector gets plugged up first. Cyl#5 usually the second one if you may have picked up dirty fuel over the years if it is a fuel injector being dirty. But with 300k i think you mentioned. Any fuel injector could be giving weak performance by now...
edit on 15-9-2016 by Corruptedstructure because: (no reason given)



posted on Sep, 15 2016 @ 05:13 PM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

well I said 1 bank when I should have said one bank, I think it was bank 2. Truck was running and he was a light talker. I did see one cylinder had almost 3k misfires, the rest where single or double didgits. But like he said that in itself is inconclusive because thats over basically the life of the truck. But he cleared those so if I keeps acting up, odds are it will, we can get a better reading, more up to date. He charged me 20 bucks. I was expecting 45 -60.

He told me to clean throttle body, which I did and finish welding my exhaust were I cut out the cats. That was a bad day, I was pissed my lincoln mig welder was running bad because my buddy broke it. Then it quit on me so yeah I got the most of it welded but not everything so huge exhaust leak. Will fix that this weekend.

You ave an interlock too or just no license?



posted on Sep, 15 2016 @ 06:07 PM
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a reply to: [post=21250772]tinner07[/

Well if your battery ever went dead completely or disconnected for more than 20 minutes (sometimes less) it would wiped out all stored codes including misfire codes. But, i thought that you said you have cleared all the codes in the recent past. If correct then those 3k misfires are since then. These engines misfire to a degree since new because they are run so lean but the computer needs to see soo many in a certin period of time to throw a code. So, watching the misfire data live you Always see misfires with GM v8s engines of the vintage. If they are continuos then there is your issue. Sometimes you have to "brake torque" the engine to give it a big load if it isn't acting up then you will see the cylinder or cylinders that are the issue when watching live data. A flashing engine light is a completely dead cylinder misfire.
And no to both for license
edit on 15-9-2016 by Corruptedstructure because: (no reason given)



posted on Sep, 19 2016 @ 03:15 PM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

I hate to keep beating a dead horse but technically she is not dead yet lol... You seem to know what you are talking about so let me throw this at you.


Like I said earlier the mechanic cleared the codes and the check engine light went out. Said everything read normal. Truck drove home like a champ. This was 4 o'clock on a sunny afternoon.

Started it this morning, drove to work ran poorly. Missing, poor acceleration, check engine light flashing. Once I got on the highway it did better. Light flashed intermittently, or went more like stopped flashing now and then.

Used my buddys obd2 scanner after work, read random misfires and I cleared the code. Check engine light went out and it drove 45 miles home purring like a kitten. Another hot afternoon.

What are the odds or your opinion that it could be something "simple" like the choke not working properly? Runs poor on cold mornings and great in warm weather?

I am going to google it to see if I can find anything, Hopefully you notice this and have an opinion.

Thanks a ton



posted on Sep, 21 2016 @ 09:21 PM
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Well if you live in a high humidity climate with heavy dew in the morning it could be no different then when it has rained. Then after the engine warms up it dries out the component that is bad. If it is misfiring next time you start it at night. Open the hood and look for spark arcing or even spray it down with water in the dark to see if it starts to misfire if it isn't at the time. Just use a spray bottle at first. But if that doesn't work you can use a garden hose. Just make sure you have it started first. See if that helps narrow it down. Then let me know



posted on Sep, 23 2016 @ 04:23 AM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

thanks. Was thinking about hoses the engine down. I took it in to have the breathalyzer callibrated and asked the tech about any mechanics who deal with issues of having the breathalyzer. He said yeah right here, its a tire shop but I guess they do it all. Said they all have their own mouthpieces and any issues that would cause a reset would be overlooked because it is one of their shops. Also get a 10-20 % discount being his customer.

So one of these days I can take it back there and have them fix it.



posted on Sep, 23 2016 @ 03:31 PM
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a reply to: tinner07

The ony other thing that i can think of based on all of the info so far if its not spark related is the Mass airflow sensor could be either dirty or going bad. They are not too bad on Ebay. But i'd try cleaning it first with some mass airflow cleaner and see. Its just that it usually will throw a code for it



posted on Sep, 23 2016 @ 10:31 PM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

Hey glad you are sticking with me on this. Here is where it gets #ed up. I took it for breath device calibration, the guy at the shop hooked up a reader, read 0 misfires and o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 2 overheated. I have read so many codes off that thing...thats a first for that

I think it is the computer myself... I am going to try some high heat jb weld and muffler tape to fix my exhaust leaks, and just drive the bitch...

I dont think anybody can fix it .... too many different codes .



posted on Sep, 23 2016 @ 11:51 PM
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If you haven't changed the fuel filter in a long time, try that first. It is the cheapest way to start.



posted on Sep, 24 2016 @ 10:02 AM
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a reply to: rickymouse

Yeah I just changed the fuel filter. I can't bitch. I bought this truck 4 years ago. It was almost showroom condition. wanted 7500 I got it for 5. 1 owner truck,I have the window build sticker for it. It had something like 150k miles on it and ran like a charm. I have put 2 sets of tires on it and this is the first time it has messed with me.

Gladly trade it for an old plow truck if you know of one? you're in MI



posted on Sep, 24 2016 @ 12:09 PM
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a reply to: tinner07

A computer with those is not common but possible. it would be the last on my list to condemn. I dont think it said bank 2 sensor 2 overheated. Most likely the heater circuit is bad or fuse fror it us blown if it has one. I forget. I also seen a wiring harness on the driver's side of the transmission come loose and the front drive shaft rubbed through it causing a lot if engine running issues and codes for everything on that circuit including those downstream O2 sensors. Also on my sisters 99 old model suburban harness rubbed through against the transmission same side caused the same issue. The harness was shorting out all those systems but, fine once fixed..
edit on 24-9-2016 by Corruptedstructure because: (no reason given)



posted on Sep, 24 2016 @ 12:13 PM
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originally posted by: tinner07
a reply to: rickymouse

Yeah I just changed the fuel filter. I can't bitch. I bought this truck 4 years ago. It was almost showroom condition. wanted 7500 I got it for 5. 1 owner truck,I have the window build sticker for it. It had something like 150k miles on it and ran like a charm. I have put 2 sets of tires on it and this is the first time it has messed with me.

Gladly trade it for an old plow truck if you know of one? you're in MI


I just bought myself an old plowtruck, an 87 chevy Silverado with a western plow. I had to put new brakes and some sensors on it and a tune up but it runs fine now. It isn't too rusty but does have thirty three thousand miles on it. Just broke in I guess, I bought it from the son of a friend of mine after my friend died. It will probably need a new clutch next summer, it doesn't slip but it is kind of inconvenient when it is up so high. I paid eight hundred and had to put five hundred in to it in parts to get it to be trustworthy to take a long trip with it. The new battery was the most expensive thing, I bought the bigger interstate since I use it to plow.
edit on 24-9-2016 by rickymouse because: (no reason given)



posted on Sep, 25 2016 @ 01:15 AM
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At 300k miles if you're gaving a boatload of problems, I'd suggest just dropping a nice sub 100k motor and trans in there.

Gotta weight the cost of frequent repairs vs a one-time cost of maybe $2000 to get it trouble free for a few years.

100,000mile warranty KIAS start to sound nice to me sometimes when the payment is barely more than the monthly outlay to keep my 2002 on the road.



posted on Sep, 26 2016 @ 03:26 PM
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a reply to: 8675309jenny




At 300k miles if you're gaving a boatload of problems, I'd suggest just dropping a nice sub 100k motor and trans in there.


Oh I have considered it. Especially when I was thinking to change all 8 fuel injectors at 90 a pop. I drove it to work today in light rain. Ran poor most the way and ran perfect on the way home. 75 mph at 2000 rpm...80 mph at 2100-2200.



posted on Sep, 26 2016 @ 03:34 PM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure

I will check on any harness' off the tranny. Need to fix my exhaust leaks, Probably get my wire welder out this weekend and put a little more effort into welding the tops of the pipes. That and see online some different type of epoxy and tape designed for muffler, all with mixed reviews.



posted on Sep, 26 2016 @ 06:34 PM
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Still sound electrical to me due to the water related senerio. Good luck



posted on Sep, 28 2016 @ 03:31 AM
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a reply to: Corruptedstructure




Still sound electrical to me due to the water related senerio. Good luck


It really does seem like it. Yesterday morning was pretty cold out but not a lick of condensation on my windshield. Truck drove like a champ. Usually runs rough in the morning.

Looking forward to really doing a good wire inspection this weekend.



posted on Oct, 4 2016 @ 03:19 PM
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I looked around could not find any broken wires. Today I was going to get underneath with a hose and spray the o2 sensors. I noticed it was dripping gas from somewhere before the fuel filter.

Now I either had somebody tell me or read that it is possible for a hole in the fuel line to suck in moisture. I googled it but not finding anything, any opinion on that?



posted on Oct, 7 2016 @ 09:54 AM
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a reply to: tinner07

You could spend about 400 on sensors,but to be honest at 300k engine probably needs a full rebuild,got your money's worth out of it



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