Has anyone had an issue with an MAF sensor?

page: 1
2
<<   2 >>

log in

join

posted on May, 6 2014 @ 06:35 PM
link   
I am at my wits end!

First of I am talking about a 97 Subaru Impreza 1.8 engine.

Anyhow, my problem started out as the car started right up. Drive it 1 to 2 miles and the engine starts to spit and sputter and then it stalls out. One other thing is that when the engine does it's spitting and sputtering, pumping the gas does nothing.

I do have a light that kicks on that never did before. It is the AT fluid temperature light. It comes on and flashes a few times and then shuts off. The tranny fluid level is fine and I am questioning how even IF it was the transmission, how and why would it cause the engine to spit and sputter and stall out?

Anyhow, I think I have it narrowed down to the MAF sensor. I took it out today and the two wires did NOT look corroded or dirty..

Any help from someone whom might have experienced anything similar would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: I have already changed the fuel filter and the air filter is good to go as well.
edit on 6-5-2014 by seeker1963 because: (no reason given)




posted on May, 6 2014 @ 06:42 PM
link   
a reply to: seeker1963

I had exactly the same type problem with my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee... I have heavily modified/lifted it so I was looking everywhere..

Come to find out, it was my Crankshaft Position Sensor... Fried.....




posted on May, 6 2014 @ 06:45 PM
link   
a reply to: semperfortis

Appreciate your reply Semper!


I ordered a hand held OBD computer from Amazon for only $23. I figured why pay the dealership $100. Narrowing this bugger down is killing me! But I think as you found out it is most likely a damn sensor.

Thanks again for your response!


I hope it is the cam shaft sensor....A hell of a lot cheaper than the MAF sensor.....
edit on 6-5-2014 by seeker1963 because: (no reason given)



posted on May, 6 2014 @ 07:05 PM
link   
I had an issue with a motor where the engine went into 'limp' mode after a short distance.

Plugging a OBD in told me it was the EGR valve, but it wasn't. Then it was supposed to be the MAF sensor, but it wasn't. It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. It wasn't burned out, just needed taken out cleaned and put back. 5 min job, no cost.

Do not take what any OBD tells you as gospel. Usually something else entirely.



posted on May, 6 2014 @ 07:45 PM
link   
Longshot but...

I had a 2006 Impala.

The 'engine light' would come on sometimes. OBD had different problems but nothing worked.

And the 'traction control' light would come on sometimes. OBD showed zero !!!

Turned out it was a dirty MAF sensor in the air intake, and loose air filter housing.

Cleaned the MAF sensor and the intake hose and the throttle body inside with MAF spray cleaner.

No problem after that and ran real good !!!



posted on May, 6 2014 @ 08:00 PM
link   
a reply to: bigyin

The EGR valve was next on my hit list!

I just want thank every one of you whom have replied!

I appreciate more than I can say in words!!!!

Thank you all very much!!!!!



posted on May, 6 2014 @ 10:51 PM
link   
Is the engine hard to crank up on cold starts? If so I would say 95% chance it is the aforementioned CPS. Also is the car a turbo? Because the same symptoms can be caused by a boost leak. Have you checked the spark plugs after it is having problems to see if they are loaded up with fuel? That can be a sign of the MAF misreporting the amount of air and causing too much fuel to be dumped for the air actually available.



posted on May, 7 2014 @ 08:21 AM
link   
a reply to: seeker1963

I am curious to know if you have recently replaced a battery or have a bad battery. The reason I am asking this is because I had a 2002 GMC Envoy and the exact same thing started happening to me when I would get below 1500 rpm. I took it every where and ended up replacing the MAF and EGR sensors with no luck. I then found a forum online that stated that I needed to remove the throttle body and clean it, something to do with a battery. When I read this I was beside my self trying to figure out how the one would be relevant toward the other, and then thinking someone must be playing a joke on individuals with actual mechanical problems.

Needless to say I went to the auto part store and bought some carb cleaner and cleaned the throttle body like the post said. I mean, what else did I have to loose other than the $3.00 for the cleaner. As soon as I put everything back together it fired right up and I never had another issue with it.

edit on 7-5-2014 by RAGEhimself because: (no reason given)



posted on May, 7 2014 @ 08:47 AM
link   
a reply to: bigyin

do not take what the obd says as gospel.....kinda sorta true! It will tell you where to start looking,not whats wrong.Case in point,I was a mechanic for GM,my brothers Astro started belching out black smoke,way rich.He hooked up the OBD,said O2 sensor.I didn't trust it,as it only had 60k miles,too soon to go bad. The 02 sensor just sniffs for air in the exhaust,and adjusts the gas.I felt air was getting in the exhaust some how.He replaced the sensor anyway,no luck.He brought it to me,did a tune up,plugs and such.Found a bad plug wire! It had a dead cylinder,pumping air into the tailpipe,and it was richening the gas to get rid of the air.Once the injectors were wide open,it still had excess air,and set the 02 code.Gotta follow the trail!



posted on May, 7 2014 @ 02:04 PM
link   
One trick you can try if you suspect it's the MAF sensor is to tap on it a few times with a screwdriver handle or something. If that doesn't work, replace it. It's an easy job. My truck was doing the same thing. Once I replaced the MAF, no more problems.



posted on May, 7 2014 @ 02:21 PM
link   
My first two thoughts were the fuel injectors (but your car appears to run good at first then sputters) then I thought maybe on O2 sensor but again you left enough info that it seems eliminate this. I'm not real advanced with cars or the MAF so it was nice to read up on this as well.
edit on 7-5-2014 by HawkeyeNation because: (no reason given)



posted on May, 8 2014 @ 08:30 AM
link   
a reply to: HawkeyeNation
the few miles thing was a tip off! Most cars run on a preset program,til everything warms up. An 02 sensor won't work cold,the water temp,all those.Usually,its a 2 or 3 minute setting til the sensors start to send codes.The MAP,manifold absolute pressure,only works on start and wide open throttle.The only sensor that really works on startup is the oil pressure sender.It allows the fuel pump to turn on for 5 seconds after startup...if there is no oil pressure,it turns off the fuel pump.A real b**ch to track too!



posted on May, 8 2014 @ 11:34 AM
link   
a reply to: seeker1963

Just replying to thank for all of the input on this matter!


I did get my OBD computer today and it is telling me 3 things.

EGR valve, which does look in pretty bad shape
Knock sensor which would explain why my check engine light was always on but I don't thing that alone would be causing the car to die after a mile or two

AND

The MAF sensor.

Being that I got ahead of myself, I had the MAF sensor already disconnected.

I am going to go with a new EGR valve and a Knock sensor replacement.

Parts will be $200 and I can do the labor myself.

If that doesn't do it. Then I am looking at the much more expensive MAF sensor!

Again! I want to thank you all for your feed back. It was a very valuable resource in helping me figure this mess out!



posted on May, 8 2014 @ 12:56 PM
link   
The knock sensor can cause issues with the engine retarding the timing way too much because of falsely reported predetonation be the faulty knock sensor, Its not very common but I have seen it happen.



posted on May, 8 2014 @ 01:02 PM
link   

originally posted by: BigDave-AR
The knock sensor can cause issues with the engine retarding the timing way too much because of falsely reported predetonation be the faulty knock sensor, Its not very common but I have seen it happen.


Yea, I just got in from checking on where the little bugger is located!

Buried down in there pretty good but I'll get er done!

I did pretty good on the parts.

I got the Egr valve, gasket and knock sensor for $153 on Amazon. Hell, if I would have bought them at the at the local Napa the Egr valve alone was $200.

Thanks for the help!
edit on 8-5-2014 by seeker1963 because: (no reason given)



posted on May, 8 2014 @ 02:05 PM
link   
a reply to: seeker1963

No problem at all if you have any issues once you get your parts in just let me know and I'll try to help you through more troubleshooting. If you do end up needing a MAF first get some dedicated MAF cleaner and take the sensor itself out of the tube and clean the filaments and the connectors. Also on most cars you can order the MAF sensor without the tube and is cheaper that way. Good luck!



posted on May, 9 2014 @ 07:12 AM
link   

originally posted by: semperfortis
a reply to: seeker1963


Come to find out, it was my Crankshaft Position Sensor... Fried.....



This. ^

Does the car just kinda crank over for a bit with no fire, then just magically restart after a certain amount of time? If so, it is usually the crank angle sensor that goes. I had a Ford many many years ago that you would be just cruising and then it would just die. Crank over, no joy, no running. Tow it home, leave it for an hour and it would fire up again.

In regards to the AT fluid light coming on, there should be a sensor somewhere underneath, it is most likely either bung or possibly dirty or old, check that too. If the fluid levels are fine though, don't stress too much.

The oxygen sensor is most likely the second culprit, although they tend not to stall the engine, just make it run rough as guts if it's playing up or broken. I'd be looking at your crank angle sensor first, common enough problem with modern cars.



posted on May, 9 2014 @ 09:03 AM
link   
a reply to: 74Templar

When the car is cold, it starts right up and pretty much purrs like a kitten. Drive it about 2 miles and it just starts to spit and sputter and loses all power, (not electrical but engine power) it actually even let's out a few backfires thru the exhuast and then it becomes very difficult to even get it started until it sits awhile.



posted on May, 9 2014 @ 05:55 PM
link   
a reply to: seeker1963

Yeah defientely sounds like a crank angle sensor, it does almost exactly the same thing as the Ford I had used to do. Then when it gets cold or sits for a bit it starts up no problem, then does it all over again. I did the same as you, replaced all kinds of different things before working out what it was.



posted on May, 9 2014 @ 07:16 PM
link   

originally posted by: 74Templar
a reply to: seeker1963

Yeah defientely sounds like a crank angle sensor, it does almost exactly the same thing as the Ford I had used to do. Then when it gets cold or sits for a bit it starts up no problem, then does it all over again. I did the same as you, replaced all kinds of different things before working out what it was.


Well, my parts should be here sometime in the middle of next week.

We'll see what happens then.

I will let you all know the outcome. I at least owe all of you that much





top topics
 
2
<<   2 >>

log in

join