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Rusty Tools? No Worries!

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posted on Mar, 7 2014 @ 07:44 AM
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reply to post by khimbar
 


Nope, just aggravating iPad transfer issues I think!

Have another beer!




posted on Mar, 7 2014 @ 08:44 AM
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Personally, I just use a bench-mounted grinder wheel and wheel brush to clean up old rusty tools.


I've polished up some pretty rusty items to look just like new. Sandpaper is great for getting in small places though, but a Dremmel is even better!



posted on Mar, 7 2014 @ 10:52 AM
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reply to post by Gazrok
 


Oh, I would totally agree with you, that if you have access to the right tools, like a bench mounted wire brush, and a bench mounted buffer wheel, you could work virtually any metal surface until it was shiny enough to shave in. That is all very well and good, and I know that dremmel tools are marvelous bits of kit to have lying around the place, mostly because of their versatility. But in any scenario which involves a lack of access to electronic hardware, those methods will fall down faster than a lead balloon!
Using the methods I describe, you can achieve a workable finish using only pretty basic supplies, and no power what so ever.

To be honest, I wish I had a bigger workshop, with more bench space, more tools, and a modest forge out the back, and a three dimensional metal printer, the list goes on. But I think that you sometimes have to work with what you have available, instead of wishing you had a tool that you have no hope of laying a hand on!
Regarding bench grinder machines, we have one, but both sides carry stone wheels, that we use for grinding the excess off keys that we have cut, and we do not have a buffer wheel!



posted on Mar, 7 2014 @ 06:53 PM
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reply to post by TrueBrit
 


There's a bug in upload. If the picture file size is over some limit I haven't yet determined, it will display in the wrong orientation.



posted on Mar, 8 2014 @ 05:42 PM
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reply to post by TrueBrit
 


I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the red can or transmission fluid, I think it is the same stuff. The wet sandpaper paper ideal of yours is a great suggestion. Thanks.



posted on Mar, 8 2014 @ 06:46 PM
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reply to post by angelchemuel
 

Linseed oil applied to the bare shiny metal will help protect from rusting, a heavy coat will help for storage of shovels and hoes and such. My grandfather used it to seal the surface metal of knives , by applying a coat while the metal was still slightly hot.



posted on Mar, 8 2014 @ 08:21 PM
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Navel jelly(Phosphoric acid) mixed with water. 1 container to 5 gallons.
soak the rusty tools in the mix for a week or so till you have a good black ferric phosphate coating.

This coating will protect the metal for a long time.

After a few weeks use the Navel jelly(Phosphoric acid) water mix can be further diluted with water (200 to 1)and filtered so that it can be sprayed through a garden sprayer and the remaining ferric phosphate makes a good fertilizer supplying both phosphate and iron.

I used this mix to treat my tool that i used underground in a wet mine to keep them from rusting bad.
edit on 8-3-2014 by ANNED because: (no reason given)



posted on Mar, 8 2014 @ 08:51 PM
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for my outside equipment(shovels, shears and so forth) i like to use a 5 gallon bucket and some sand with oil poured in it. after each use, just jam the shovel into the sand repeatedly and let the sand scrub the blades while the oil puts a light coat of oil on it after each use. it works great and i don't have to worry about rust starting.



posted on Jul, 22 2015 @ 01:43 PM
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a reply to: watcher6342

Genius!!!

I agree we need a 101 on knife sharpening with whetstones/ceramic rods. I have both & apparently it's an acquired skill. One I suck at!!



posted on Jul, 22 2015 @ 08:02 PM
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originally posted by: HardCorps
reply to post by Chronogoblin
 


well if you want
Borax but if you live out in the western US you can dig up yourself--- see Borax is nothing more than a ground up mineral called Trona (trisodium hydrogendicarbonate dihydrate)


Don't get Trona around any steel you want as it is very corrosive.
In natural deposits it is mixed with salt.

By the way Trona is NOT a Borate its a Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash)

I worked at the chemical plants in TRONA calif.
www.sfgate.com...
en.wikipedia.org...://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Searles_Valley_Minerals



posted on Jul, 29 2015 @ 03:15 PM
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Part of my 5 year plan is to have a solar charging station in the garage, just for powering tools (this is on next year's agenda). While I have all the hand powered versions too, of most tools (even hand drills, etc.), I certainly prefer the power options. I figure post SHTF, a) I'll have a real need for doing a lot of little construction/tool projects, b) I'll need to do a lot of maintenance work, especially since the ranch will house more people, and c) I'll have a LOT more time to devote to it!

Of course, I do have a few 12 volt batteries I could cycle through, as well as a couple of inverters, so even without the solar, I could muddle through a bit.

We typically get folks that come in with some nasty looking bits (for horses, etc.) or buckles, and a few minutes, and a couple dollars later, I've got them looking like new (and a lot cleaner for the horse's mouth).

Good reminder to stock up on sandpaper though. Never thought of that angle (as well as spare brush wheels!)
edit on 29-7-2015 by Gazrok because: (no reason given)



posted on Jul, 24 2016 @ 06:18 AM
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One of the best ways of cleaning rusty tools is to put them into brick acid (Hydrochloric acid) and leave them to soak. The acid will eat all the rust and leave a clean surface with no energy expanded by you, which is essential in a survival situation if your food stocks are low, then just coat with your choice of oil. I use this all the time for metal items I find while diving and also for renovating old knives I pick up from junk shops.



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