Good afternoon fellow members!
I have been a locksmith for nearly a decade now, but we also offer a range of hardware products in our store. You have to diversify in this day and
age, and our little three mile chunk of town does not have a hardware store, other than ours. So anyway, one of the things I am often asked to do is
"fix" peoples rundown, rusted equipment. More often than not, all that is required is a little rust management.
Here is a pair of shears that came across my counter today...
As you can see, they were pitted with rust, gnarly, dusty, crusty and rusty. I have actually known people to throw tools in this condition out. Here
is all the kit you will need, to rid yourself of any rust trouble you might be having with your garden tools...
Ignore the whetstone, because sharpening is a skill that many people learn differently, and this being the survival forum, I doubt that anyone who has
ever read a thread in here would need assistance with that! Ignore the washing up liquid also, since I use that in conjunction with the stone.
Now... The image features one sheet of No.320 waterproof abrasive paper, and a sheet of P800 wet and dry sandpaper, as well as some three in one oil.
Take the shears, and unbolt the fastening that holds the shears together. Sometimes this may be a little stiff, and I find that a little three in
one, and a swift smack with a small hammer tends to loosen them off nicely. Place the bolt, washer, and anything else which happens to be part of that
fastening (models vary in terms of how the blades are married), on the side, and clear of your work area. Now, pick up either blade, and lay it on
your workbench. You will see that they are a pain to lay flat, so, assuming they are blunt, lay the blade down across your thigh.
If you are not a total moron, you will not be able to injure yourself doing this, although if you do happen to be that certain kind of special,
warning... Idiocy can lead to femoral artery bleeds.
Snatch up your 320 grit paper, and take off a small square, about 40mm on a side, from the sheet. Drop some three in one oil onto the rusted surface
of the blade. I tend to apply a line roughly the length of the blade at first. Rub the living hell out of that blade with the paper. You will need to
clean the rust filled oil off the blade and tear off more paper, and repeat the elbow grease laden rubbing, until one side of the blade looks more
Once this level of shiny has been achieved, you will want to make sure you caught any stubborn areas of rust, just check the thing over a little bit.
Then, have at it with the finer P800 paper. It is much finer, and it is this paper which will provide a nice smooth finish to the blades. Use it dry.
You will note, that the blade looks much shinier once this has been done.
Now, do exactly the same for the reverse side of the first blade, and both sides of the second blade.
Now that both bits of metal have been returned to a decent state, take some more three in one oil on a rag, and rub down both blades. Get them good
and coated in the stuff, to ensure that any moisture they come into contact with, has to penetrate a significant barrier before getting to the metal
beneath the coating.
This complete, remarry the blades using the fastenings provided, and then add just a little more three in one between the blades, at the pivot
And there you have it. A perfectly decent pair of shears, that less than an hour previously were so rusted that they could not be used. A word on
epoxy coatings, and anti-corrosive coatings on all but the most expensive tools...
They are rubbish. Uniformly, and totally rubbish. If you see rust on the surface of the blade, I do not give a damn whether the rest of the visible
blade is coated in black paint, pink marshmallows or pure refined unicorn urine. If there is rust, rub that sucker down, because once breached, the
coating is totally useless in virtually every case. Have no fear of rubbing down through the coating if it will chase rust away. All it will mean, is
that you have to clean the blades more often, and that is no bad thing.
I hope you found this information useful. You will note, that at no time were any power buffers or bench mounted buffing tools used, so these methods
will be just as good if the crap hits the fan, as they would be any other time. I personally find maintaining tools to be a very therapeutic activity,
and rewarding. There is nothing quite as satisfying as returning something from a useless state, to a useful one.